You are here : HOME > Oils & Fluids
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-up Grease - 3 oz. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-up Grease - 3 oz.
Price : $9.99 $5.99
Features :
  1. Extends the life of bulb sockets
  2. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection
  3. Prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots
  4. Required for modern high energy ignition systems
  5. Suggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trailer hitches, battery terminals

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion.

Customer Review :

EZ plug wire removal

Using a little Permatex Dielectric grease on the spark plug connectors will help remove them later as well as sealing out moisture.

Rating :



Permatex--What else?

keep this stuff on hand or expect to pay an O-BOMB-A shill your first-born child

OK, the stuff works, 'nuff said..socialism be damned


Rating :



Its great to have this around

This tube is bigger than you think. I used this item as a filler to get free shipping!. I use it mainly for placing on the car bulbs when i replace them, or for spark plug wires. This stuff works great, and is recommended to have just in case you need to waterproof a connector!

Rating :



Royal Purple Street Synthetic Motor Oil - SAE 5w30, Quart Bottle, Pack of 12 Royal Purple Street Synthetic Motor Oil - SAE 5w30, Quart Bottle, Pack of 12
Price : $146.28 $77.99
Features :
  1. Greater wear protection
  2. Superior technology, Synerlec is Royal Purple's proprietary, lubricant technology that strengthens the oil to provide unmatched performance and protection
  3. Feel the Difference, the most frequent comment from customers is how they can feel the difference in their vehicles after switching to Royal Purple
  4. High film strength and reducing friction improves performance
  5. Increased oil life saves time, money, and the environment

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

SAE 5w30 Motor Oil is recommended for use in all fourcycle gasoline engines and both twocycle and fourcycle diesel applications including cars, trucks, motor homes, RVs, boats, commercial fleet and stationary industrial diesel engines. Royal Purple Motor Oil is a tough, long life, high performance oil that delivers superior protection and enhanced performance to gasoline and diesel engines. It gains its performance advantages from a blend of synthetic oils plus Royal Purple's proprietary, synthetic Synerlec additive technology. Synerlec additive technology greatly reduces engine wear, including ring, cylinder and bearing wear. It is extremely tenacious, adheres to engine surfaces and remains after shutdown, which provides protection upon initial startup. Royal Purple Motor Oils are compatible with other mineral and synthetic motor oils. Royal Purple's motor oils are API certified and will not void new car warranties. Royal Purple recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines before using Royal Purple. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before use in diesel engines.

Customer Review :

Noticable improvement!!!

I was having some overheating trouble that took almost two weeks to figure out. After a couple of thing's didn't fix it I found out about this stuff and it's cooling properties. So I added the Purple Ice to my coolant and it worked immediately(I could tell because I could drive further before overheating) so then I replaced my motor oil and transmission fluid with the stuff, again able to go farther. Once I got the problem fixed, I now have better shifting, more HP, and my engine runs cooler than it ever has! I believe this stuff helped prevent my engine from blowing up while it was overheating!

Rating :



ROYAL PURPLE LUBES ARE GREAT

Tried the RP MAX ATF first, awesome, then the DIFFERENTIAL 75W-140 the mid-grade and it stopped all whining noises (WHINING IS WEAR!!) in my TOYOTA TRUCK rearend, then the RP 5w-30 oil but prefer the 10w's from RP in my older vehicles.
Better than Mobil One, Better than most Castrol Synthetics too.
5w-50 Castrol Syntec is my favorite for very powerful cars but RP 10w-40 is close if not equal. Owning many cars makes the RP 5w-30 the best choice for rarely driven vehicles, even feels slipperier than other synthetic oils!

Rating :



Noticeable difference

In the process of doing my 60K service on a 2004 Mazda MPV, I decided to switch to synthetic. Hands down Royal Purple gets the best praise and reviews so thought I'd give it a try.

I was amazed that I actually noticed a difference after changing the oil and replacing with synthetic in terms of fuel economy (about ~2mpg improvement). Performance is slightly noticeably better but I also replaced the air filter, spark plugs and tranny fluid at the same time so not sure I can say the oil alone helped there.

My only complaint is that I failed to realize what a great cost Amazon has for this item. I ended up paying $8.99/qt at the local Schucks and won't make that mistake next time!

Rating :



NOTHING Else Goes in My Truck

I have been using the motor oil Royal Purple Street Synthetic Motor Oil - SAE 5w30, Quart Bottle, Pack of 12 for 3 different vehicles I have owned since discovering it in 1996. It is phenomenal product that lives up to its billing better than any product of the same type on the market. If you want to protect your engine; only have to change your oil about once every 5k miles, get this oil! Expensive you say? What is your engine worth in comparison? This stuff works and not only their motor oil, but transmission, radiator.. all their product are FAR and away superior to ANYTHING else on the market. For my money, time, and power boost that this product provides to my truck, nothing goes in my crank case but this oil. Buy it, you will not be disappointed!!

Rating :



Average synthetic oil...

I bought 6 quarts of this for my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 liter V8 (56K miles) after reading all of the high reviews and buying into all of the hype, but after trying it out for about 1K miles, I'm not impressed.

Don't get me wrong, this oil does exactly what it is supposed to do; lubricates, cleans, and protects the engine. But as far as delivering more horsepower; higher-torque; and a cooler running engine, I saw absolutely no difference over the CONVENTIONAL oil I had just switched from. Running conventional oil, my Tahoe saw 15.8 MPG, and an internal engine temperature consistently between 201-205 degrees F. The temp and MPG after 1K miles of running Royal Purple? 15.7 MPG and 201-205 degrees F. I have also noticed no difference in engine sound or torque as many others have mentioned in reviews.

I honestly believe that many people experience dramatic results with Royal Purple only because they also change out their coolant, differential oil, transmission oil, and air filters at the same time.

Bottom line is that I ran 6 quarts of 5W30 RP with a brand new K&N filter for 1K miles after switching from 50K miles of conventional oil, and saw absolutely no difference.

Also, in the weeks since I purchased RP, I've seen many of their "comparison test" videos on you tube, and the way the conduct all of their tests is laughable. They change variables so many times throughout each test that it becomes pointless to compare. I even saw one where they ran 10W30 conventional and 5W30 RP as a direct comparison. They clearly think we are all idiots.

Save your money. I will be switching to Mobil 1 next oil change due to their lower cost and solid reputation. I tried the "boutique" oil. Never again.

All of you RP zombies and employees can feel free to bombard me with your negative comments...

Rating :



More reviews...

3-IN-ONE Professional Silicone Spray Lubricant, Aerosol Can, 11 Fluid Ounces 3-IN-ONE Professional Silicone Spray Lubricant, Aerosol Can, 11 Fluid Ounces
Price : $3.99 $2.94
Features :
  1. Ideal for rubber, wood, metal and more
  2. Category H2 , NSF registration 130363
  3. Withstands extreme temperatures, -40 to 392 degrees F
  4. Controlled, no-drip spray
  5. Quick drying, leaves no oily residue, does not attract dust

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

3-IN-ONE Professional Silicone Spray Lubricant provides high-performance lubrication and corrosion protection, in a quick-drying no-mess formula. It's safe for use on metal, rubber, vinyl, wood, and much more. Lubricates: Doors, locks, hinges, belts, windows, latches, zippers, switches, fishing equipment, tools, chains, belts, sports equipment, lawn equipment, valves, linkages, pulleys, fans and more. Protects: Electrical parts such as distributors, ignition wires and sparkplugs. It can also be used to protect guns, boots, tools, pool and marine equipment. 3-IN-ONE Professional Specialty Products have been created for a wide range of applications. These High-Performance formulas were designed to meet the specific needs of professionals. Maximum cleaning, lubrication and protection to tackle any job.

Customer Review :

Silicone lube

This lubricant works on many materials without damage to surfaces like other solvent based oils. It works great on binding hinges of different materials. Wonderful for plastics that tend to squeak and chafe. Great for a binding water hose nozzle.

Rating :



Does the job

I used it for my squeaking clutch pedal. I sprayed it around the Clutch Interlock switch and...no more noise. It saved me from having to replace the pedal assembly at the dealer for $200-$300. The parts alone would have cost me $150.

Rating :



Red Line 60103 SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 oz. Red Line 60103 SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 oz.
Price : $8.95 $7.49
Features :
  1. Fuel injector cleaner
  2. Cleans pollution control valve
  3. Reduces octane requirements
  4. Raises fuel economy
  5. Protects the fuel system from rust

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

SI-1 injector and valve detergent is a concentrated package of the most powerful high-temperature detergents available to clean gasoline fuel injectors or carburetors, intake valves and combustion chambers and can clean injectors to nearly 100 percent efficiency in one treatment. The cleansing effect on injector deposits can raise fuel economy approximately 12 percent or even greater, depending on the condition of the injectors.

Customer Review :

Amazing - Never expected results you can actually feel

Ok so I've tried a handful of fuel system cleaners over the years and the last being Chevron Techron after researching it years ago. The car would typically feel good for that tank, and nothing more but I figured it helped since sometime I would have to put Circle K gas in my car or from stations where you could tell that you were going to get some water with your gas since they were so old.

Anyway on a cross country trip in my friends Volvo with 101k miles in it the throttle started to stick and I realized it was a drive by wire car so it wasn't a cable issue. Plus the car was pinging (my uncar savvy friends response was that sound was the noise the fan makes..) like mad so I inquired to what gas this little turbo was running... Response- Regular! and to makes things worse the last 50k miles the poor thing has been running regular and pinging!!! ahahahahaha So Instant pull into a filling station to fill up the tank with super 91 (in that part of the country). The car is still pinging even after 2 tanks of super, so I remember some motorcycle discussions about Seafoam and I pick a bottle up for some stupid $18 amount in the middle of no where gas station, but the car needs something and the throttle is running (researched this later that the throttle body was dirty). The Seafoam immediately helped but the car still pinged through 4 more tanks of super, and worse the throttle was staying stuck slightly the rest of the trip home which made going down hills interesting to say the least with an automatic (can you smell the brake pads?)

So after a trip to the dealer to inquire about Throttle body cleaning and getting a $140 quote and they won't even pull it off to clean it? I started researching and found this Red Line Product... I've done enough motorcycle road racing to know that certain builders will only use Redline products for their motors and so I know it would be good, but I wasn't expecting to find out that 1oz of this stuff has more than a whole bottle of the Chevron Techron.

So Dump a bottle in the offending Volvo, and also one in my Honda Element with 63k miles and both cars drove like a bat out of hell while the full bottle was in each tank, but I expected that as most cleaners have some octane boosters to make you feel like you got your monies worth.
What I wasn't expecting was that my Exhaust in my Honda was rattling around and the car rattled at stoplights and didn't rev out as smoothly. I just figured it needed plugs and a tune up as I had put 63k miles on it myself... but seriously the exhaust pipe didn't rattle, it revs better than new (probably thanks to the synthetic oil I've been running since after breakin) and I'm getting about 1mpg better and I'm actually putting my food into it more... I'm completely blown away!

The Volvo sticking throttle is cured! and more importantly the engine doesn't ping at all with 91 super like it should! The seafoam might have helped but after seeing the online comparisons of motors fuel systems being torn apart before and after by 'USERS' not "As Seen On TV" infomercials I was confident this wasn't snake oil.

I will be periodically be adding the 1oz a tank as suggested instead of buying whole bottles of other products!

Rating :



I got this stuff but didnt notice a huge difference...

Being a big fan of Red Line products, I was hoping for a big night and day transformation of my 1997 Toyota Camry. Sadly, it just didn't happen. I didn't want to give it 5 stars as I just didn't notice anything, but, I didn't want to give it 1 star as I trust Red Line in their products. My guess for the lack of difference is probably in the fact that I only use name brand gasoline. I figure that the better quality fuels probably have enough detergents in them now a days as to not really require a heavy cleaning. Perhaps if I were more negligent in the upkeep of my car I would have seen a more noticeable bump in performance.

Rating :



Raised my gas mileage 3-4 points

My '06 Civic SI has about 40,000 miles on it. It had been getting around 22 mpg (mostly city driving) but even with long distance freeway driving (around 75mph) I'd only get about 23 mpg. I usually use Chevron or Shell gas. I also have used Techron fuel cleaner in the past with no results.

So I used Red Line SI-1 a few tanks ago, and my gas mileage has increased to about 26 mpg for my last few tanks. Right now I'm at 318 miles on one tank of gas, and i have one bar left on my fuel gauge (it's digital). Prior to the Red Line the best I'd ever gotten was 312 on one tank of gas, and that was after driving the ENTIRE tank on the freeway, and driving 10 miles with no bars left on the fuel gauge. Typically I would get 250-270 miles on one tank.

I'm stoked!

I will admit that using this stuff ain't going to do anything to help you if your injectors aren't clogged... but if you suspect they are, this is the fuel cleaner to get!

Rating :



As good a cleaner as I've tested

I can echo what Glenn said in his review. I started using fi cleaners back in the early 80's. A new Volvo 242 I had purchased new was starting to perform sluggishly. Another owner recommended a fi cleaner which I tried and it worked pretty well. Over the past 28 years I've tried just about everything on the market. Some worked well, others didn't. The Red Line SI-1 works better than the others I've tried. The BG cleaner works well too, but at three times the cost.

Rating :



Works well

I have a high mileage vehicle with two catalytic converters. Red Line is the only additive that I've used that has kept the check engine light off for more than a few hundred miles.

Rating :



More reviews...

STA-BIL 22214 Fuel Stabilizer - 32 Fl oz. STA-BIL 22214 Fuel Stabilizer - 32 Fl oz.
Price : $20.95 $10.30
Features :
  1. Fuel stabilizer keeps fuel fresh for quick, easy starts after storage, while prolonging engine life
  2. Removes water to prevent corrosion and cleans carburetors and fuel injectors
  3. Protects engine from gum, varnish rust, and corrosion
  4. Eliminates need to drain fuel before storage
  5. This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Gold Eagle STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer keeps fuel fresh for quick easy starts after storage. It removes water to prevent corrosion and cleanses carburetors and fuel injectors. This product also protects engine from gum, varnish, rust and corrosion and prolongs the life of any engine. Eliminate the need to drain the fuel of your 2 or 4 cycle engine by treating the fuel with STA-BIL before storing. This 32 ounce quick measure easy pour bottle treats up to 80 gallons of fuel.

Customer Review :

I will never use this product ever again!!

I have always heard how great Sta-bil was for your stored fuel and it was good for your carburetor too (says right on the package it will help to clean it out). So I finally decide that since I have a lot of equipment that I am storing for the winter Three ATVs a lawn mower, pressure washer, weed eater, blower, etc. that I would add Sta-bil to all of my stored fuel and equipment. Later this spring and summer as I start all of this stuff up, I start having issues like extremely poor performance out of my one year old 660 grizzly (stalls out and back fires) and I have no less than three carburetors that have completely failed. The seals have all gone out and they all leak horribly and one of them dumped raw fuel through the system past my rings and into my oil pan on a very expensive Honda Pressure washer. Coincidence I don't think so. I have left these items with just a full tank of fuel and an empty carb for several winters and have no problem, but the one year that I put this crap into my fuel, I have lost three carbs and I need a rebuild and clean out of another one? Right. I am super upset. And to boot I don't have the money to fix any of these right now!

Rating :



keeps me riding

if you keep fuel in your dirt bike over long amounts of time between rides this is a must have. keeps fuel system clean.

Rating :



Stabil

I have used Stabil in the gas tanks of my cruiser and outboard for a number of years over the winter months when the boats are used less frequently. I keep the fuel tanks full of fuel to avoid moisture and Stabil to keep the fuel fresher than it would be other wise. I think it works for the engines always start and run well everything else being equal.

WRL

Rating :



Sta-Bil

Found Amazon had the best price for this size bottle, 32 oz., sold through Auto Barn. I used to use Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner, but it's difficult to find. This is a newer formulation than the Yamaha product, and is less expensive. Plus you use less product for an extended storage concentration mix. Yamaha was 5 oz./5 gallons of fuel. Sta-Bil is 4 oz/5 gallons of fuel. Auto Barn shipped quickly and it was packed well.

Rating :



Sta-Bil

I have used this for years. Good stuff. The price was right on this order!

Rating :



More reviews...

More Results : [First] [Prev] 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 [Next] [Last]

Questions & Answers
Question : 1998 Mazda 626 Issues?
312 000km on car, 200 000 km on motor, 2.0 Liter 5 Speed.Issue 1: Gas tank (plastic) is leaking at the top, strong odor when full. Does not leak when on flat ground, but steep hills and jerky driving cause it to leak until about 3/4 full.Issue 2: Common with older engines, the bottom half is moist with oil (not yet dripping), not coming head gasket or oil pan. What can it be and how do I help it?Issue 3: Just yesterday I noticed my amp amplifying engine and turn signal static. I think my deck is a pioneer DEH-1900MP and I am using the RCA cables on the back to signal the sub. When unpluged from the back of the deck all the noise is gone. I assume it is a ground issue in the stereo?I change my oil and filter regularly with full synthetic.None of my fluids leak (but gas) and it does not burn oil. Feel free to share any helpful mazda hints.I use to have a 1993 with over 500 000km on it, all original. I put a hard 50 000km on it before it let me down. I sold it, but it only cost $150 to get it back on the road. YAY Mazda!

Answer:
This model Mazda 626 is notorious for transmission problems...That many miles on it already I'd probably sell it while the tranny is still shifting...........I had one and my mother had one same problems on both bad transmissions......

 

Question : Should i trade my ac for a stang?
Okay, heres the deal, I am thinking about trading my car. I put it up on craigslist and have been talking to and met someone about trading it with them. So here are the stats....I have:A 2000 Acura Integra GS 2dr automaticPower everything, sunroof/moonroof everything works. There is a small hole in the exhuast that will only cost $50 to get fixed, but the guy said its not required as of right now, its not hurting anything. (just took it to get everything inspected yesterday and thats the only thing that was wrong AT ALL mechanically)Brand new brakes (4pads and 2rotors), just had tranny fluid flushed and replaced, new timing belt, and brand new FlowMaster SS Custom muffler ALL done just under a month ago as well as a couple other small upgrades. Had oil changed 2200 miles ago, 800 miles left. Also has aftermarket JVC CD player, full Rockford Fosgate system and wiring (12"P2 subs and 400watt 2channel amp, not including with trade because deal was from the start will only include if trade in has equivilent system, also taking my cd player) I also had installed a very precise unique custom cop alarm w/LCD screen remote that cost me $500. I've put alot of money into this car within the last couple months alone.It does have some very monor cosmetic issue (2 small dents, small piece around back break lights had to be fixed and it grey primer, scrapes on under front bumper from running into a curb)Also has 125k miles.He is offering to trade....A 1998 Cherry Red Mustang White top Convertible V6 Automatic(not a GT V8 :( if it was I wouldn't need to ask this question Id do it!! LoL)Everything works, nothing AT ALL wrong with it cosmetically besides one of the front light covers is missing. (Paint is great, no rust or corrosion, clear coat still very nice)He said nothing was wrong with it performance wise that he knows of, I took it for a test drive, the only thing is I think it has a warped rotor or something along those lines because it shakes when you hit the brakes. But thats the only thing I found wrong with it so far, I want to take it to a mechanic for inspection just in case before anything is final anyways.Everything in it is stock (it is very quiet :( im used to my flow now haha) He had oil changed 2000 miles ago as well. He hasn't really done any upgrades or add ons to it. He said he did get new brake pads and rotors when he bought it 2 years ago. Thats all I really know about the car at this time. Oh, and when I went to drive it, the shifter was a little weird (it worked fine just seemed "heavy" maybe thats normal, is it?? I might just be too used to my car.)170k miles.So, my question is, should I go for the trade, is it worth it on my part or would I be losing out on more than I should? Is the name of a stang worth giving up the great condition and reliability if my newer ac? Im not sure what to do, I like his car a lot cosmetically, kinda weird to drive though because Im so used to my really small ac, but that just takes getting used to. The handling in it isn't as precise as mine is, again, just the car itself.What should I do?! Should I ask for cash with the trade if I go for it, or trade even?If anybody reading this knows alot about mustangs, do you think my 12" subs in a custom box (not exactly sure of measurements) would fit in his trunk, it is very tiny compared to my hatchback lolHere are pics of my car....http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=28385809&album Id=2740722No pics of his..Thanks!!

Answer:
The shaking when hitting the brakes would be my biggest concern. Could be the result of an accident. Ask to see the title to the car and see if it states "salvage" or "rebuilt". If it does, stay away from it. Run a carfax on it if you can.

 

Question : car wont start but battery is fine engine and amp light on.?
I have a 1989 ford crown Victoria that wont start. It was driving just fine then i parked turned car off for about an hour went to start it and it wont turn over not even a noise. All the lights work and the radio there is oil in the car gas antifreeze and tranny fluid so Im not sure. There is a new alternator and battery just installed last year. When you turn the key the radio comes on and the lights in car and headlights but i noticed the red engine light stays on and the amp light at same time so what does this mean? or what could this be?

Answer:
Just because the lights and radio work doesn't mean the battery is strong enough to start the car.It's the battery or the battery connections. Simple.It's the starter. More difficult.But with the amp light on, I would say battery.

 

Question : Mercedes 1990 560SEL?
Whats the correct oil and other fluids I put in my? Need info on taking the interrour apart (step by step guid) something. Can't find the car amp that powers speekers also? The 4 buttons on the driver side that roll up all 4 windows are breakin,the driver side window rolled down but not up so I poped the button off an now it dont work at all what do I do? The button that controls the back passenger side window from the front rolles down but not up I didn't pop that button off it feels like the buttons broke when I try to roll it up. How do I take off door panels (step by step guid or something) my back driverside widow is off track???? HELP Winter is coming an it's getting cold!!

Answer:
Your best bet is to spend the $20-30 and get a repair manual . Unless you are really good at auto electronics, this could be difficult for the average tech.

 

Question : Should I do the trade?
Okay, heres the deal, I am thinking about trading my car. I put it up on craigslist and have been talking to and met someone about trading it with them. So here are the stats....I have:A 2000 Acura Integra GS 2dr automaticPower everything, sunroof/moonroof everything works NOTHiNG WRONG WITH iT (just took it to get everything inspected again yesterday to make sure)Brand new brakes (pads and rotors), just had tranny fluid flushed and replaced, new timing belt, and brand new FlowMaster SS Custom muffler ALL done just under a month ago as well as a couple other small upgrades. And just had oil changed, tires rotated 2weeks ago. Also has aftermarket JVC CD player, full Rockford Fosgate system and wiring (12"P2 subs and 400watt 2channel amp) I also had installed a very precise custom cop alarm w/LCD screen remote that cost me $500. I've put alot of money into this car within the last couple months alone.He is offering to trade....A 1998 Cherry Red Mustang White top Convertible V6 Automatic(not a GT V8 :( if it was I wouldn't need to ask this question Id do it!! LoL)Everything works, nothing wrong with it cosmetically besides one of the front light covers is missing.He said nothing was wrong with it performance wise that he knows of, I took it for a test drive, the only thing is I think it has a warped rotor or something along those lines because it shakes when you hit the brakes. But thats the only thing I found wrong with it so far, I want to take it to a mechanic for inspection just in case before anything is final anyways.Everything in it is stock (it is very quiet :( im used to my flow now haha) He had oil changed 2000 miles ago as well. He hasn't really done any upgrades or work to it for a while. He said he did get new brake pads and rotors when he bought it 2 years ago. Thats all I really know about the car at this time. Oh, and when I went to drive it, the shifter was a little weird (it worked fine just seemed "heavy" maybe thats normal, I might just be too used to my car.)So, my question is, should I go for the trade, is it worth it on my part or would I be losing out on more than I should, or would he be losing out? Im not sure what to do, I like his car a lot cosmetically, kinda weird to drive though because Im so used to my really small ac. The handling in it isn't as precise as mine is, but thats just the car itself and my beings used to what I am.What should I do?! And ALSO again, I am not including my system with the trade because he doesn't have an quivilant system which was part of my deal in the first place. I told him Id want to take my JCV cd player as well as his is stock and I need the hookup.If anybody reading this knows alot about mustangs, do you think my 12" subs in a custom box (not exactly sure of measurements) would fit in his trunk, it is very tiny compared to my hatchback lolHere are pics of my car....http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=28385809&album Id=2740722No pics of his..Thanks!!

Answer:
According to auto trader in my area, your Acura is worth from $9000 to $13000 depending on mileage and condition. The Mustang is worth from $6500 to $11000. Your geographical location will be different price ranges, I am sure, but mostly what this is saying is your car is worth more. Unless you just have to have a convertible, I'd probably stick with yours.

 

Question : 94 civic ex swap stopped running?
i just put a d16z6 in my 94 civic ex and i was pulling out of a light and was going fine then going into 2nd gear it was fine but then started bouncing around and slowed down. i threw it in first and tryed taking off again and still bounced around then it completely died on me and i rolled into the grass. it said low battery and i have a broken terminal but my amp and windows still worked good. it also says the oil is low. so i checked the oil and it is low so i put a little in there and it sounds like it wants to start and has compression but wont fire up. i sprayed starting fluid in it and still wont start. i was thinking it could be my fuel pump but my check engine light isnt on. could i have a blown ecu fuse???? what else could it be?? oh and there isnt any oil in my radiator its all antifreeze

Answer:
I bet your cam timing jumped.

 

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

 

 

Sitemaps: Car Care, Exterior Accessories, Interior Accessories, Motorcycle & ATV, Oils & Fluids, Paint, Body & Trim, Performance Parts & Accessories, Replacement Parts, Wheels & Tires, Tools & Equipment, Automotive Enthusiast Merchandise


Returns Policy | Privacy Policy

Copyright © 2009 - 2010 Automotive, Motorcycles and ATV

|