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Optima Batteries 8016-103 D34M BlueTop Dual Purpose Battery
Price : $215.99 $142.00
Features
: - 12-Volt, 750 Cold Cranking Amps, Size: 10" x 6 7/8" x 7 13/16" tall, Weight: 43.5 pounds, Dual SAE & 5/16" Stainless Steel Stud Posts
- Reserve capacity of 120 minutes for constant performance
- Optimal starting power even in bad weather
- Fifteen times more resistant to vibration for durability
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
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Editorial Review :
Optima D34M BlueTop is designed as a dual purpose battery, both starting and deep cycle for people who need a sure-starting, strong cranking, and maintenance free power source for their boat or RV, even in harsh conditions. The unique SpiralCell design provides a strong and clean power source, ensuring the safety of you, your family and the environment. The higher reserve capacity gives you a longer shelf-life to give you the power when you need it, where you need it. This battery is designed to be used with recreational vehicles or boats with large accessory loads.
Customer Review :
Good battery, poor shipping (Jan 2010)
We own several Optima batteries, and they work extremely well. Five stars for this awesome battery! Too bad Amazon hasn't figured out how to ship them properly.
We ordered this as (yet another) inverter battery, and it arrived in a seriously smashed paper-thin box that was roughly 50 percent covered in tape, apparently from en route repairs.
Inside for packing material was about 18 feet X 1 foot strip of thin packing paper you'd cover glassware with. Wadded up it was about the size of a small cantaloupe. IOW, the packing is like what you would expect buying from some shady individual from a classified ad.
Though surprisingly not cracked in half, the battery did have what appears to be an impact or load discoloration on its top. I took pics of all this madness in case I have to return it.
If you are buying the battery for some essential function, such as for your car, you might want to consider purchasing something locally. All the abuse these batteries get in shipping and poor packaging can't possibly be good for them, and might degrade them mechanically inside and leave you prematurely stranded somewhere.
I worried about packaging as I read these reviews before I bought, and it seemed like Amazon got their act together with shipping. Now I see its more like rolling the dice.
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Optima Battery premature failure and poor service
Purchased a dual purpose Optima Blue top battery and it did fail prematurely. Customer service from optima was extremely poor. Not sure if they are worth the money with such poor customer service from Optima.
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Great battery, horrible packaging
These batteries are great, I've owned several. They're non-spillable and last much longer than your standard lead/acid batteries. The problem is apparently Amazon does not read any of the reviews here about packaging. My batteries arrived in a thin cardboard box with one piece of brown wrapping paper wrapped around them. Needless to say both of the batteries were destroyed and now I'm at the mercy of Amazon's customer service to get new ones. Thanks Amazon!
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Best Battery for the money.
Optima Batteries 8016-103 D34M BlueTop Dual Purpose Battery I ordered this battery for my boat mainly because I have two others that has given me great service. This battery being a totally sealed unit it needs no service. Being a capacitor coil type with a acid gell it doesn't spill and can be mounted in any position. Also it is vibration resistant like no other battery of it's type. What made it more of a great thing was the price, Amazon.com came through again.
Billy Bearfoot
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Improved packaging for Optima D34M
I just received my Optima D34M (October, 2009). Maybe Optima and Amazon read the earlier reviews about poor packaging, and damaged cases, and acted on them. The battery arrived in just 5 days (I used the super saver free shipping-UPS Ground), and was safely resting on a thick white foam custom shaped cradle, all enclosed in a roomy box that was triple thick and easily up to the task. There are even 2 hand-hold cutouts on the box, to make it easier to handle with care. Good job, Amazon and Optima. A bit frustrating is that I now notice the price has dropped $20.00 just 6 days after I received my battery. Darn! Larry in SF, CA
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Odyssey PC680 Battery
Price : $152.04 Too low to display
Features
: - Cold Crank Amp (CCA)- 220; Better warranty: Limited 2-year full replacement warranty, not pro rata; Longer service life: With 3-10 years of service life, ODYSSEY batteries save consumers time, money, and aggravation
- Longer cycle life: 70 percentage longer cycle life compared to conventional deep cycle batteries, up to 400 cycles at 80 percentage depth of discharge- high stable voltage for longer periods of time
- Faster recharge: The highest recharge efficiency of any sealed lead battery on the market, capable of 100 percentage recharge in 4 - 6 hours; Mounting flexibility: Non-spillable design
- Vibration resistance- design protects against high impact shock and mechanical vibration; Extreme temperature tolerant
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
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Editorial Review :
ODYSSEY Batteries Powersports Battery features a rugged construction, built to take the constant pounding that comes with the territory, whether that territory is on land, sea, or snow. The ODYSSEY battery can handle it. Packed tightly with pure lead plates, the non-spillable AGM design ODYSSEY battery protects against the shock and vibration that can quickly destroy other batteries. And the pure lead plates mean more power—twice the overall power and three times the life of conventional batteries—up to 400 cycles at 80 percentage depth of discharge. The ODYSSEY battery is the ideal choice for a complete range of powersports applications: motorcycles, ATVs, personal watercraft, snowmobiles, ultralight aircraft and Gyrocopter aircraft. Its construction consists of pure virgin lead plates for maximum surface area and optimized recycling, AGM (absorbed glass mat) design that eliminates acid spills, high conductivity, corrosion-resistant tin-plated brass terminals, high integrity terminal seal, a sealed design resulting in gases recycled internally during operation or charging, a safety relief valve per cell and robust intercell connections to prevent vibration damage. ODYSSEY batteries beat spiral-wound. Compared to spiral-wound batteries of equal size, ODYSSEY batteries pack 15 percentage more plate surface area into the case. Avoiding the dead space between cylinders in six-pack designs means ODYSSEY batteries deliver more power and 40 percentage more reserve capacity.
Customer Review :
Great small battery for a car
I've been running this battery for over 4 years in a cold climate in my Subaru WRX (2.0 L flat 4) without issue. The starter has started to sound a little weak on colder mornings, though so I just picked up a new one.
One thing to note, this battery does not come with the posts (terminals) in the picture. Shame on you Amazon. Show a picture of what you sell. The posts are available for around $10. Also, the battery is cheaper at the website I ordered the first PC680 from, [...]. I should have checked there first. I would have saved over $10.
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Optima Batteries 8002-002 34 RedTop Starting Battery
Price : $182.99 $130.00
Features
: - 12-Volt, 800 Cold Cranking Amps, Size: 10" x 6 7/8" x 7 13/16" tall, Weight: 37.9 pounds, SAE Post
- Reserve capacity of 100 minutes for constant performance
- Optimal starting power even in bad weather
- Fifteen times more resistant to vibration for durability
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
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Editorial Review :
Optima 34 RedTop is designed to deliver high power cranking ability even in harsh weather conditions. This battery is great for heavy use by hot rods and off-roaders with its leak-proof, high power, and starting ability. The unique SpiralCell design provides a strong and clean power source, ensuring the safety of you, your family and the environment. The higher reserve capacity gives you a longer shelf-life to give you the power when you need it, where you need it.
Customer Review :
power forever !
In 1985 I purchased a new ford F150 truck. In 1987 I replaced the battery with a OPTIMA RED TOP BATTERY. TODAY IT IS 2009 AND I HAVE 582 THOUSAND MILES ON THE TRUCK AND THE RED TOP OPTIMA BATTERY.IT HAS BEEN 12 YEARS NOW AND THAT IS UNHEARD OF FOR A BATTERY TO LAST THAT LONG. I WAS A POLICE FLEET MANAGER FOR A LARGE CITY AND WE USED UP FACTORY BATTERIES RIGHT AND LEFT , WE SWITCHED TO THE OPTIMA BRANDS AND THEY OUTLASTED THE POLICE VEHICLES WE TRADED IN. I TALKED TO THE PERSON THAT DEVELOPED THE OPTIMA BATTERY , HE WAS A RETIRED NASA ENGINEER!
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Its an optima
plain and simple, you get what you pay for Optima is the leader in batteries. I wish I had the money to get 2 of the blue tops for my boat.
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great batteries
batteries are great. the shipping boxes are not strong enough to keep the batteries safe in shipping.
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Optima 34 RedTop
Great Battery so far, I havn't had it very long. Saved big on the Super Saver Shipping. Not packaged for the abuse of UPS!!! "MINOR DAMAGE"
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A great battery
I've had this battery about 6 months and no problems so far. It is expensive, but I love the fact that it is truly no maintainance, and it can never spill.
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Optima Batteries 8020-164 35 RedTop Starting Battery
Price : $159.99 $144.25
Features
: - 12-Volt, 720 Cold Cranking Amps, Size: 10 5/16" x 6 13/16" x 7 5/8" tall, Weight: 39.5 pounds, SAE Posts
- Reserve capacity of 90 minutes for constant performance
- Optimal starting power even in bad weather
- Fifteen times more resistant to vibration for durability
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
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Editorial Review :
Optima 35 RedTop is designed to deliver high power cranking ability even in harsh weather conditions. This battery is great for heavy use by hot rods and off-roaders with its leak-proof, high power, and starting ability. The unique SpiralCell design provides a strong and clean power source, ensuring the safety of you, your family and the environment. The higher reserve capacity gives you a longer shelf-life to give you the power when you need it, where you need it.
Customer Review :
Great product and great price
My local shop told me my battery was "weak" and I thought this was an opportunity to get an Optima. The local stores did not have my size in stock and the price was significantly higher than Amazon. When I made my purchase, the shipping was free so the decision was made for me! It arrived in two days and has worked like a charm.
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NO WARRANTY
Battery died after 20 months. After calling Amazon I discovered that Amazon does not honor any warranty on this battery. Optima doesn't either! Local shops don't either! I had to replace the battery locally, but next time I'll at least have a warranty. DON'T BUY THIS BATTERY ON-LINE!!!!!
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Fantastic Battery
Best battery I have ever bought and well worth the money. this thing is awesome. Starts faster and stronger and havent had one problem out of it and i have had it for a while now. Great product. well worth the money!!! Highly suggested to anyone who is thinking about it!
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NEVER BUY from AMAZON!!!
Yes, yet another reviewer advising you NOT to buy this battery from here!
The battery itself is great, however I have a defect where it only would crank at 170cca and still started. But, Optima states Amazon is NOT an authorized seller and Amazon will NOT return or exchange the battery.
Optima was reluctant at 1st call to exchange it for me but ended up having me take it to an Interstate Battery shop for them to test and exchange it, LUCKILY.
I see some other reviewers weren't so lucky and I suggest they look into contacting Optima for the Interstate Battery store route.
Amazon claims it is a hazardous item but the OPTIMA battery is a sealed battery. Its the fact that Amazon is not authorized to sell them that really bothers me...
Bottom line ::
DO BUY AN OPTIMA BATTERY, BUT DO NOT BUY FROM AMAZON!
I took off 1 star for the experience, being mostly Amazon's fault. But the battery should not have failed so soon...
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Pickup locally.
I've had great experience with Optima batteries in the past. Amazon offers it at a great price, but you'd be better off buying one locally and paying more. Amazon ships the battery without enough protection, so when the UPS guys drop the box, the battery is likely to get damaged. Mine arrived with a smashed corner. At the time I did not know if this would affect performance. Now after a year of use, it's pretty clear that the damage has taken its toll. My battery struggles to maintain 12 volts. I'll be replacing it with an Optima purchased locally.
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Optima Batteries 8004-003 34/78 RedTop Starting Battery
Price : $182.99 $137.00
Features
: - 12-Volt, 800 Cold Cranking Amps, Size: 10" x 6 7/8" x 7 13/16" tall, Weight: 38.8 pounds, Dual SAE & GM Posts
- Reserve capacity of 100 minutes for constant performance
- Optimal starting power even in bad weather
- Fifteen times more resistant to vibration for durability
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Average
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Editorial Review :
Optima 34/78 RedTop is designed to deliver high power cranking ability even in harsh weather conditions. This battery is great for heavy use by hot rods and off-roaders with its leak-proof, high power, and starting ability. The unique SpiralCell design provides a strong and clean power source, ensuring the safety of you, your family and the environment. The higher reserve capacity gives you a longer shelf-life to give you the power when you need it, where you need it.
Customer Review :
Watch out on return policies
Let's face it, you're buying a car battery off Amazon. There's no returns accepted for this item, so unless you have some kind of guarantee that it fits on your car, don't buy it here.
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Optima Red Top Battery
Anyone wanting a top of the line car battery, this is it! Looks great under the hood of my 68 Chevelle, with the matching red cover! SHARP ! !
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Optima Battery 8004-003 34/78 Red Top
Optima Batteries 8004-003 34/78 RedTop Starting Battery My first Optima Battery. It was delivered very fast from west coast and works great. It came with the top cover and 78 puck adapter for gm vehicle that I installed it in.
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Great batteries
Great batteries, good power, very lightweight. Arguably the best features are no maintenance and NO CORROSION, ever! I use these in pairs wired parallel in a diesel truck. No batteries last really long in that application, but these lasted much longer than Interstate, Motorcraft, etc. They did not last as long as claimed, but did go 5+ years, instead of ~3 years for conventional name brand batteries. I got the 34/78 dual terminal style to make it easy to wire up heavy accessories. Warranty should be serviceable most anywhere at an AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc.
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Time will tell!
Installed this in my Suburban after years of returning several dead Wal Mart top of the line units. Although covered under warranty it got to be a pain. Seems to start vehicle faster and easier! Since this is an item that takes time to properly evaluate I will check back in a few years. TIME WILL TELL!
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Questions & Answers
Question : Installed cd player in my truck, won't turn on at all....what to do to troubleshoot the problem?
I bought the wiring harness for my 04' Dodge Ram 1500. I wired my amp to my battery, the subwoofer box, and grounded it to the base of the drivers seat. Matched up the color coded wires on the harness. turned the key and nothing turned on. Im pretty sure I shorted something. I checked the radio fuse...its fine. I blew the fuse to the cigarette lighter...b/c it wasnt working...i replaced the blown fuse and it works fine now. but, my wireless lock doesn't work. also, the lights and accessories only work when the key is in the ignition....same with the wireless lock remote. Any ideas to help me figure out whats shorted out or how to fix it is apreciated. I don't want to have to take it to the car audio place and have them replace a fuse or 2 and pay them $65/hr for it.
Answer:
I bought the wiring harness for my 04' Dodge Ram 1500. I wired my amp to my battery, the subwoofer box, and grounded it to the base of the drivers seat. Matched up the color coded wires on the harness. turned the key and nothing turned on. Im pretty sure I shorted something. I checked the radio fuse...its fine. I blew the fuse to the cigarette lighter...b/c it wasnt working...i replaced the blown fuse and it works fine now. but, my wireless lock doesn't work. also, the lights and accessories only work when the key is in the ignition....same with the wireless lock remote. Any ideas to help me figure out whats shorted out or how to fix it is apreciated. I don't want to have to take it to the car audio place and have them replace a fuse or 2 and pay them $65/hr for it.
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Question : battery question on s197 (05-09 mustang gt)?
how much voltage comes directly from the battery? is it a conventional 12v? enough for a remote turn on lead for an aftermarket amplifier? im running a + switched line from the battery to the amp with the blue wire. and everyone keeps giving me the same answer, "why not run it to an accessory wire inside the car?" which i refuse to do. there are so many wires and i have no clue which one is an accessory wire, thus all i need to know is will it turn the amp on from the battery? not the red + wire, not the black - wire, the blue one that turns the amp on. its a stock system. this is starting to anger me severely. couldve had this done a week ago if someone gave a direct answer to my question.
Answer:
If you run the blue amp wire directly to the battery the amp will stay on all of the time. Depending on the amp, this may be a severe drain on the vehicle battery. The people who say you should find an accessory circuit are correct. You only want the amp to come on when you have the ignition key on. I would not run the blue amp wire directly to the battery, I would find a circuit that only has voltage with the ignition key on, to save your battery voltage, and only turn on the amp when the key is on.
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Question : My subs won't play, everything is new and hooked up right. Can you help?
I just purchased everything I will need to put a system in my 1987 e30 bmw. System includes:-Two 12" JL subs-Monster cables 8 gauge-600watt Visonik (4 channel V304xt) amp( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.... )-Jenson MP6212A friend of mine helped me with the installation. Here's what I have done:1.) RCA cables hooked in the rca slot on the back of the head unit as well as the amp.2.) The REM wire is hooked up to the amp. It is also connected to the 2 red accessory wires coming from head unit and the car.3.) The subs are wired to the speaker wire inputs on the amp.4.) The ground wire is connected to the negative terminal on the battery (I did this because I couldn't find a ground spots in the trunk. Plus the thick 6" brown wire coming from the negative terminal is directly connected to a bolt in the chassis.5.) Amp 12v wire hooked up (w/ fuse) to positive terminal on battery (battery is in the trunk). Also hooked up to the 12v input on the amp.After hooking it up, it worked for only a few minutes, then stopped. No fuses looked blown, but I replaced them all. I checked all the connections and re-connected all the wires. Tried 3 different RCA cables. When I turn the car on now, only the red logo light comes on on top of the amp. When it was working fine, the white power light came on as well. The head unit works fine, the battery, cables, and amp is new. Could part of the amp be fried? The REM and 12v are working fine, but the amp seems to be getting no audio signal from the headunit.
Answer:
I think BMWs and their rear batteries are really bad for the electrical...IIRC.Your REM should be connected to the REM of the head unit, not the accesory 12v.Maybe you fried your amp by turning the gain too high. Visonik is crap, so it's not really reliable. If you have this option, get another amp and hook it up exactly how you have this set up and see if it works. If it doesnt, then its the wiring. If it does, then ur visonik is dead. Another thing you can try is using the amp in a car that you already know it works. See if it works in that car (replace one amp already installed).
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Question : Please Help With Sub and Amp Choice!?
I am looking to buy a new system. It will be installed in a extended cab pickup for now and will be installed in an escalade soon. For the truck i was thinking i could just set the box with x2 15'' subs on the back seat because it wont fit anywhere else. I don't know much about this stuff and would like if you could help me pick the best type of subs and amp. Also i mostly listen to rap and metal and am looking for LOTS of bass.I will put the links to a few of the different things i was looking at.SUBS:(not sure what difference between the single or dual voice coil or like a 4ohm or 2ohm if you could specify which one i should get.)1. MTX 9500 15'': http://www.woofersetc.com/p2208/T951544--MTX-Thunder-9500-15"-DVC-Subwoofer.htm2. Kicker 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=168563. audiobahn 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14145AMPLIFIERS:(once you pick the best sub please pick the best amp for that sub. also i was told that i could put say a 1350 RMS amp to a 1000RMS sub and it would be fine and alot louder?)1. Hifonics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=206052. Boss: http://www.woofersetc.com/p6611/DD3600--Boss-Diablo-3600W-1-Channel-Amplifier.htm3. Hifonics: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5674/TXi1508D-Titan-Series-1500-Watt-Mono-Amplifier.htmAlso if there is a better sub or amp for around same price that i have not listed please let me know and if there are any other accessories that i would need such as a battery, capacitor etc. I dont really know much about those or what they do... thank you.ALSO i will throw in 2 choices for boxes becuase i understand that the box makes a huge difference so if u could tell me which one is better i would appreciate that too.1. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3518/SQ215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Sealed-Box.htm2. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3525/SQP215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Ported-Box.htm
Answer:
I am looking to buy a new system. It will be installed in a extended cab pickup for now and will be installed in an escalade soon. For the truck i was thinking i could just set the box with x2 15'' subs on the back seat because it wont fit anywhere else. I don't know much about this stuff and would like if you could help me pick the best type of subs and amp. Also i mostly listen to rap and metal and am looking for LOTS of bass.I will put the links to a few of the different things i was looking at.SUBS:(not sure what difference between the single or dual voice coil or like a 4ohm or 2ohm if you could specify which one i should get.)1. MTX 9500 15'': http://www.woofersetc.com/p2208/T951544--MTX-Thunder-9500-15"-DVC-Subwoofer.htm2. Kicker 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=168563. audiobahn 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14145AMPLIFIERS:(once you pick the best sub please pick the best amp for that sub. also i was told that i could put say a 1350 RMS amp to a 1000RMS sub and it would be fine and alot louder?)1. Hifonics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=206052. Boss: http://www.woofersetc.com/p6611/DD3600--Boss-Diablo-3600W-1-Channel-Amplifier.htm3. Hifonics: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5674/TXi1508D-Titan-Series-1500-Watt-Mono-Amplifier.htmAlso if there is a better sub or amp for around same price that i have not listed please let me know and if there are any other accessories that i would need such as a battery, capacitor etc. I dont really know much about those or what they do... thank you.ALSO i will throw in 2 choices for boxes becuase i understand that the box makes a huge difference so if u could tell me which one is better i would appreciate that too.1. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3518/SQ215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Sealed-Box.htm2. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3525/SQP215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Ported-Box.htm
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Question : How come my 12 inch subwoofer wont work?
so we routed all the wires we need from the battery to the amp to the sub, etc. spliced the audio from the amp to radio into the rear speakers in my car and we spliced the power to the amp from the radio with the correct wire there that is hot while acc is on, and we had hooked up the subwoofer to L+ and R- for the mono sub and after we tested it out, we got a repetive constant beat (motorboat effect [which can be caused by a wire to the sub from the amp being grounded somewhere else maybe, but we checked and nothing is being grounded accidentally..]) that went even when the radio was off (with accessories on). but when we had put them both on L+ & - or R+ & -, it would work fine, but with the bass on the amp all the way up and the bass on the radio all the way up, it just moved without making any vibration, but it was following the beat for sure. Is there something we missed?
Answer:
a bad ground on your amplifier can cause the constant beat you are describing.
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Question : need help powering vehicle + accessories?
ok heres the skinny. i own a 2000 gmc yukon with hid lights that need very high start-up power or else they both wont come on without turning them offand then back on-2 solo baric L7 15's with 1farad cap and a hifonics 2000watt monoblock amp with an epicenter- pioneer indash touchscreen-replaced all four door speakers with hifonics 6.5's and 2 tweeters in the front-plan on upgraded the interior lights,tail lights, and clear turn signals with leds, and install hids in the fogs. and later i wanna add speaker pods for at least 4 more 6.5's with a highs amp. dont kn ow if this makes a difference but ts been retuned with a superchips programmer......now after all that has been said heres the deal. sometimes my lights want turn on when starting, i have to turn them off and back on. my lights also flicker when the bass is up sometimes but not as often as before the 1 farad cap. my door speakers dim alittle also when the bass is up making the words drown out. im currently running a everstart maxx walmart battery and stock alternator. i dont want to do the big 3 mod nor the second battery mod. what other option do i have to do to get more power. id like to do an optima yellow top and an ho alternator. what alt. should i go to without having to modify something else, and shouli go with a yellow top or another brand.....on a side note im also thinking of switching out my 4 ballast for my hid lights from 35watts to 55watts. im not really looking for a direct answer, just opinons from expiriences or facts. thanks for reading the long post.
Answer:
ok heres the skinny. i own a 2000 gmc yukon with hid lights that need very high start-up power or else they both wont come on without turning them offand then back on-2 solo baric L7 15's with 1farad cap and a hifonics 2000watt monoblock amp with an epicenter- pioneer indash touchscreen-replaced all four door speakers with hifonics 6.5's and 2 tweeters in the front-plan on upgraded the interior lights,tail lights, and clear turn signals with leds, and install hids in the fogs. and later i wanna add speaker pods for at least 4 more 6.5's with a highs amp. dont kn ow if this makes a difference but ts been retuned with a superchips programmer......now after all that has been said heres the deal. sometimes my lights want turn on when starting, i have to turn them off and back on. my lights also flicker when the bass is up sometimes but not as often as before the 1 farad cap. my door speakers dim alittle also when the bass is up making the words drown out. im currently running a everstart maxx walmart battery and stock alternator. i dont want to do the big 3 mod nor the second battery mod. what other option do i have to do to get more power. id like to do an optima yellow top and an ho alternator. what alt. should i go to without having to modify something else, and shouli go with a yellow top or another brand.....on a side note im also thinking of switching out my 4 ballast for my hid lights from 35watts to 55watts. im not really looking for a direct answer, just opinons from expiriences or facts. thanks for reading the long post.
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Question : blue rem wire on amp?
ok ive pretty much asked alot of questions before. but im running a stock system, and tapping the rear speakers with a line out converter. everything is figured out except the blue rem wire that turns on the amp. i know you can tap into the fuse accessory of the car, but i looked at the fuse panel, and its wired in with the main computer, and so help me god i aint touching it. so what i figured is, what if i ran the rem wire directly from the battery, to a lil switch inside the cabin, then continued into the amp, that way i control if it makes connection. its basicly a one way switch, one side in, one side out, making one connection with no other polarity. and since the amp is grounded and running two [30] fuses, and the main positive red wire for the amp is fused as well, i dont see how it could cause any harm as long as i remember to shut it off when im done using it. would this work? considering i think a car battery only puts out around 12v of charge, same as any head unit or accessory wire.
Answer:
Why don't you connect it to the main power of the head unit at the back of the radio.....this avoids going through the firewall...and the amp will come on when the car is on and vice versa....or see if there is a ant. wire coming from the head unit....connect to it..
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Question : 87 integra blowing wiper fuse?
as soon as u turn the ignition to the accessories position the fuse blows. the wiper takes a 25 amp fuse and it also blew a 25 amp. it started a couple of days ago. is there a possibility that the motor is grounding? of course there should be if the fuses are going out like that but where should i begin.with the harness plugged in @ the motor there is power but when i unplug the harness and test light it from the battery there is nothing. Am i testing it wrong.the funny thing is that when the car is running and i put the fuse in it works just fine untill you turn the car off and then restart it then it blows the fuse any suggestions or remedies would be appreaciated..
Answer:
sounds like you have a crosswire. usually with the stereo unit. Although i would go to a sparky or autoelectrician as it could get worse even a fire.
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Question : The truth about capacitors....?
A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit and even then the benefit is purely for voltage conditioning and has nothing to do with power conditioning. THEY DO NOT HELP WITH DIMMING LIGHTS.To get more current to your system, you need a high output alternator. This is the cure for dimming lights.For the record..... The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the vehicle and run the accessories with the engine off nothing else. The REAL power plant of the vehicle is the alternator.What brough this about was an answwer to this question - http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080816185107AAsYEkK&r=w#NbUvWju8VzmdRHfXRHQUThis line, "When instantaneous energy (current) is required by the amp to drive the subs, the energy is delivered from the capacitor, improving bass response and not taxing the car's electrical system." is totally bogus.ANY item that has internal resistance puts a a tax on the electrical system. Even batteries have an internal resistance. In no way does a cap "improve bass repsonse". That requires power and a cap is a voltage device, not a current device.This has been another Public Service AnnouncementA.A.S. degree in Electronics/Industrial Electronics with 25 years in the mobile audio/consumer electronics field, Peavey Media-Matrix certified audio engineer
Answer:
Yeah I know try explaining that to some of these people out here ,especially the ones who always thinks they are never wrong and they do not know what they are talking about....Try telling them for the systems they are installing it requires really big upgrades then they tell you that you are just trying to get them to spend extra when you are really trying to protect their electrical system and that a capacitor does not have the same function and/or capabilties of a alternator ......
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Question : how to connect the power wire to the battery and amp?
I have a 0 gauge power wire... what are the accessories needed to connect this to the battery n amp pls. i do not know the terms for them. like the little hook things at the end? to hookin em up easier? any advice related would be appreciated.
Answer:
The terminal connectors you will use on 0 awg wire will require a larger set of crimping pliers than most people have lying around. You will need to determine what kind of terminal will work at your battery, or you may need to change your battery terminal on the hot side to accept a typical ring terminal. And you absolutely need an in-line fuse within the hood compartment so that if the wire does get damaged and touches ground it will blow the fuse rather than start a fire or damage the amp. Make sure the fuse is rated the same or no more than 5 amps above the total ampacity of your amplifier (the total sum of all the fuses on the amp) Most amps do have screw terminals for the power wire which involves a little plate that spreads apart to allow the wire to be squeezed between under the screw. Usually you strip back about 1 inch of wire, then spread out the strands into two bundles, use a flat screw driver to create a chasm between them and shape them to fit into the space around the screw. Then cut them to length, insert and torque down with an appropriate slotted screwdriver. Make sure your ground wire from the amp to the body is the same size wire as the power feed. And make sure you use a large terminal on the wire and that it makes good contact with bare metal of the car. While making the install, don't put the inline fuse into the holder until everything is done.
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