|
|
|
| You are here : HOME > Performance Parts & Accessories > Drive Train > Torque Converters |
|
|
 |
B&M 20404 Tork Master 2400 Torque Converter
Price : $215.47 $165.99
Features
: - Replaces stock converter for better launch capability and more strength
- Value priced upgrade for mild performance applications and street rods
- Stall speed of 2300-2500 RPM (based on an engine producing 230 lb. ft. of torque at 2500 RPM)
- High quality remanufactured unit features a new precision pump drive tube
- Backed by the manufacturer with a 1 year limited warranty
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
|
Editorial Review :
Upgrading to a Tork Master torque converter with a higher stall speed can give you better acceleration from a dead stop. It allows the engine to launch the car at a higher RPM, where more torque and power are available. This can be especially important if other modifications (like larger cams) have reduced your low end power and torque. The Tork Master 2400 has a stall speed of 2300-2500 RPM (based on an engine producing 230 lb. ft. of torque at 2500 RPM), so it is best suited for mild performance applications, such as vehicles with minor engine modifications that don't produce more than 350 horsepower. It has been rebuilt with a new precision alloy steel pump drive tube, and it is pressure tested and fully balanced Please Note: This converter should not be used with a transbrake, and high stall torque converters can build extra heat, so supplementary transmission cooling is recommended to avoid premature transmission failure.
Customer Review :
No review yet |
 |
Pace Setter 95-9918 MONZA Dual Outlet Exhaust Tip
Price : $109.95 $85.40
Features
: - MONZA Exhaust Tips are the best known polished and chrome plated exhaust tips.
- Dual 3" outlet x 17" overall length with resonators quiet the loudest exhaust
- Show quality finish
- Can be clamped or welded
- Fits 2-1/2" tailpipe
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
|
Editorial Review :
Designed and manufactured in the USA by PaceSetter, a leading provider of quality made, affordably priced performance products since 1972. These MONZA Exhaust Tips by PaceSetter are the best-known polished and triple-process chrome plated tips around and they are the perfect ending for any exhaust system. MONZA Exhaust Tips include the classic Dual 2-1/2" and Dual 3" outlet Tips with resonators and single 3" outlet with resonators for all applications. The resonators are designed to tone down even the sharpest exhaust notes. This tip has Dual 3" outlets and 17" overall length and will fit a 2-1/2" tailpipe.
Customer Review :
No review yet |
 |
Allstar ALL26906 350/400 11" 2200-2600 Stall Torque Converter
Price : $149.99 $149.99
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
|
Editorial Review :
Idea for mild performance factory or street stocks, economical converters are completely remanufactured with new pump drive hubs and thrust washers. Exact stall speeds will vary depending upon displacement, torque and vehicle weight.
Customer Review :
No review yet |
 |
B&M 20412 Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter
Price : $344.17 $264.99
Features
: - Replaces stock converter for better launch capability and more strength
- Stall speed of 2300-2500 RPM for mild to serious performance applications (based on an engine producing 230 lb. ft. of torque at 2500 RPM)
- Impeller and turbine are furnace brazed to withstand more torque and horsepower
- High quality remanufactured unit features many new components, including the pump drive, needle bearing, turbine, springs, and rollers
- Backed by the manufacturer with a 1 year limited warranty
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
|
Editorial Review :
Upgrading to a Holeshot torque converter with a higher stall speed can give you better acceleration from a dead stop. It allows the engine to launch the car at a higher RPM, where more torque and power are available. This can be especially important if other modifications (like larger cams) have reduced your low end power and torque. The Holeshot 2400 has a stall speed of 2300-2500 RPM (based on an engine producing 230 lb. ft. of torque at 2500 RPM), so it is best suited for mild to serious performance applications. In addition to better launch capability, the Holeshot also provides more strength. The impeller and turbine are furnace brazed, and many of the components are brand new, including the precision steel alloy pump drive tube, the heavy duty needle bearing between the stator and impeller (not a thrust washer), the turbine hub, and the springs and rollers in the stator. Please Note: High stall torque converters can build extra heat, so supplementary transmission cooling is recommended to avoid premature transmission failure. This converter should not be used with a transbrake, and it requires a small (10-3/4") bolt circle flexplate or dual pattern flexplate.
Customer Review :
No review yet |
 |
Allstar ALL26930 C-6 Ford 11" 2400 Stall Torque Converter
Price : $184.99 $184.99
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
|
Editorial Review :
Idea for mild performance factory or street stocks, economical converters are completely remanufactured with new pump drive hubs and thrust washers. Exact stall speeds will vary depending upon displacement, torque and vehicle weight.
Customer Review :
No review yet |
|
More
Results : 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 [Next] [Last]
|
|
Questions & Answers
Question : 1998 satrun sl2 Whining noise?
When I start my car in the morning for the first five minutes while accelerating i get an intermittent whining noise. There is no noise while not in drive or in idle. this began after changing the automatic transmission fluid and filter a few months ago. im sure i have the correct amount of fluid . the power steering pump makes groaning noises sometimes, but it would whine while being in park if it was that, I think. so i think it must be something in the drive train, please ask for more detail if you need. could it be the torque converter? clutch bands? and is it that important to have repaired. i can only describe the noise as high pitched like when a bearing goes out on an idler pulley.
Answer:
Would have all levels verified asap.
|
Question : 93 Ford F-150, when keeping constant speed, with accelerator slightly pushed down, vibrates quite noticeably?
The entire truck vibrates and make a low hum like VRRRT( sound wise). Seems to happen when accelerator is pushed in slightly, such as when keeping a constant speed while going up hill. I think it is the torque converter, but what do you think could cause this? Vibration is anywhere from mild to quite severe, but overall driving is not affected. Vibration intensifies when the accelerator is applied more, but stops when foot is taken off the accelerator pedal. 4.6 L Straight Six, base model, no bells, no whistles. What do you think, and what is the basis of your training?Thank you all for your help.
Answer:
If the vibration occurs when the engine is under load, such as going up a hill and coming in and out of overdrive, feels sort of like driving over a washboard. I would fault the torque converter. The torque converter shudder can be caused by worn trans fluid. Try replacing the tranny fluid, all of it, including removing the torque converter drain plug and fluid pan, it may solve the problem and be cheaper than a converter replacement. If the vibration occurs on flat land and is a constant vibration and stops when you let your foot off of the gas, have the engine checked for concerns such as a misfire, EGR problems, or vacuum leaks.
|
Question : I have a misfire on my 1987 ford bronco 2?
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!
Answer:
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!
|
Question : This is a car question about manual transmissions.?
I've only driven a manual once, briefly, years ago so there's probably plenty I don't know.A friend of mine was in Korea recently with the service and she described driving some vehicles (civilian, not some military thing) where she was able to come to a stop at a traffic light and just hold the vehicle with the brake like you would with an automatic and not have to put it in neutral or put out the clutch.Now, as I recall, with a manual, when stopping you either put out the clutch and shift to neutral OR you put out the clutch and leave it out while stopped. To the best of my knowledge on a regular manual transmission if the engine is running, the clutch is in, and the trans is in gear the wheels have to turn and if you brake it to a halt without going to neutral or at least putting out the clutch you will stall the engine.So what kind of transmission has a manual gear shift and a clutch pedal but has some kind of feature like what I have described. To hear my friend tell it the clutch was only needed while shifting not if you just come to a stop with the brake. I'm sure she is describing what she experienced but my point was that whatever it was it sure wasn't a normal manual transmission.But as I said my experience is extremely limited and long ago but FWIW I have been an observant passenger plenty!. The only thing I can think of is a manual gearbox combined with a torque converter like you have on an automatic but then I don't know why you'd need a clutch at all. But then maybe the clutch wasn't like the clutches I am familiar with. Actually as I think about it it's almost easier to explain a trans that was just the opposite of what she described, in other words one where you didn't need the clutch to shift but did need it to disconnect the power train while stopped with the car in gear. Maybe a CVT or something. But hers was the opposite. Clutch to shift, no clutch while stopped with car in gear.So what was it? Surely not the norm whatever, right?
Answer:
I've only driven a manual once, briefly, years ago so there's probably plenty I don't know.A friend of mine was in Korea recently with the service and she described driving some vehicles (civilian, not some military thing) where she was able to come to a stop at a traffic light and just hold the vehicle with the brake like you would with an automatic and not have to put it in neutral or put out the clutch.Now, as I recall, with a manual, when stopping you either put out the clutch and shift to neutral OR you put out the clutch and leave it out while stopped. To the best of my knowledge on a regular manual transmission if the engine is running, the clutch is in, and the trans is in gear the wheels have to turn and if you brake it to a halt without going to neutral or at least putting out the clutch you will stall the engine.So what kind of transmission has a manual gear shift and a clutch pedal but has some kind of feature like what I have described. To hear my friend tell it the clutch was only needed while shifting not if you just come to a stop with the brake. I'm sure she is describing what she experienced but my point was that whatever it was it sure wasn't a normal manual transmission.But as I said my experience is extremely limited and long ago but FWIW I have been an observant passenger plenty!. The only thing I can think of is a manual gearbox combined with a torque converter like you have on an automatic but then I don't know why you'd need a clutch at all. But then maybe the clutch wasn't like the clutches I am familiar with. Actually as I think about it it's almost easier to explain a trans that was just the opposite of what she described, in other words one where you didn't need the clutch to shift but did need it to disconnect the power train while stopped with the car in gear. Maybe a CVT or something. But hers was the opposite. Clutch to shift, no clutch while stopped with car in gear.So what was it? Surely not the norm whatever, right?
|
Question : what causes my jeep speedometer to quit working?
my speedometer quits working when I let up on the gas petal, it also seems like the trans or the torque converter does something, at slow speeds when you go back on the gas it feels like there's slack in the drive train. when you give gas the speedometer works ok, just acts up when you lift off the gas.
Answer:
Magnetic fields are often the cause for a speedometer to stop working. Do some research on the Bermuda Triangle, that is the #1 cause for speedometers to stop working.
|
Question : what are the signs of a failing torque converter?
what are the signs of a failing torque converter? and how can you diagnostic a torque converter ( 2006 chrysler 300)? i have a feeling, that dealer tries to cover-up a failing torque converter as my car is still under power train warranty, so i want to test it myself......my symptoms: surge drive at low speeds,stall when coming to a stop...
Answer:
Take the car out of overdrive and into drive. If the symptoms go away, it is probably the torque converter.The are a lot of other conditions that could cause these symptoms.
|
Question : Extended Warranty issue?
I have an extended warranty and after 90 days it kicks in. I am past that period. I have a power train warranty and it clearly states that it covers the transmission. here is what it says: Transmission - (a) All lubricated internal parts contained within the case(s).(b) Computer modules & solenoids; filler tube & dipstick; vacuum modulator; internal linkage.(c) Transmission case, transfer case & torque converter case.I've noticed lately that when I put it into drive or reverse it kind of kicks into gear. and also when i slow down I think i smell burnt transmission fluid. It throws a code: P0741Also around 1500 rpm it vibrates the whole car. sometimes and not all the time. I'm pretty sure it's a transmission issue, but It will only cover "failure" and i'm scared that it won't be covered. How should I go about it?I also found this in the contract:B. OIL CONSUMPTION, WORN OUT PARTS, AND DIMINISHED PERFORMANCE INCLUDING THAT RESULTING FROM A GRADUAL REDUCTION IN OPERATING PERFORMANCE DUE TO NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR SUCH AS TO GUIDES, VALVES, RINGS, AND TRANSMISSION CLUTCH PACK, DISCS AND BANDS IS NOT COVERED.
Answer:
It should be covered. Take it to a transmission shop and have it diagnosed and then called into you Warranty. You need a torque converter. IF you don't get it fixed it will end up causing the whole transmission to fail.
|
Question : i need some help from someone who REALLY knows about fords?
i work at a ford dealership (i answer phones and direct calls) and i dont know why but they are requireing that i be trained in ford product knowledge. ive searched all over the damn ford website for the past 3 days, and there are just a couple of questions i cant find, no matter what. PLEASE HELP im at the banging my head againts the wall stage with this. OK here goes...1 when towing, it is vital that the proper hitch be used. what type of hitch is used to distribute tongue load to all towing vehicle and trailer wheels?A weight distributing hitchB segmented hitchC any trailer hitchD weight carrying hitch2 what does a four wheel anti lock braking system help provide?A improved stopping performance thru the action of two separate vehicle braking systemsB straight, more controlled stops, while helping the driver maintain steering control under most road conditionsC continuous brake pressure to stop the vehicle when the driver starts pumping the brake pedalD the ability to lock out a failing brake and use the other wheels for safe stops3 what drive mode does the control trac four wheel drive system provide that is not available on fords manual shift on the fly (MSOF) and electronic shift on the fly (ESOF) systems?A 4X4 LOWB 4x4 HIGHC 4x4 AUTOD 4x2 LOW4 what is the benefit of dual stage air bags?A they provide the capability of deploying at high or low outputB they will not deploy if the driver weighs less than 75 pounds to reduce the risk of airbag related injury during a collisionC they deflate and return to their original positions after a collision, eliminating the need for replacement and additional repair costsD they have a "dual bladder" design to cover more surface area and better protect the occupants head and chest5 which statement is correct regarding all speed traction control?A when the traction control system is activated at speeds of 35 mph or higher, the braking system is deactivated and only engine control is used to limit wheel spinB when the traction control switch is activated, a mechanical lock inside the rear differential housing solidly locks the rear axle shafts togetherC the system uses a viscous coupling to mechanically link the drive wheels together for improved performance on slippery surfacesD the system uses torque converter to increase torque to each wheel when wheel slip is detected6 how long does the SOS post crash alert system operate?A until the airbags are completely deflatedB for up to 20 min and then it shuts offC until it is deactivated or until the battery power is depletedD until the drivers door is open7 what feature built into the infrastructure of all ford vehicles helps dissipate the force of the impact?A front and rear crumple zonesB BlockerBeamC SPACE (side protection and cabin enhancement) architectureD hydroformed frame rails8 what is the benefit of power adjustable brake and accelerator pedals?A They retract into the floor when the igniton is off to allow easy entry and exitB They allow drivers of smaller stature to comfortably reach the pedalsC They can be adjusted for hard feel or soft feelD They have a forward and rearward adjustment of up to 8 inches9 The driver and right front passenger side airbags are designed to enhance protection of what parts of the body of the driver and right front passenger in certain side impacts?A legsB kneesC chestD hips10 which is correct regarding the use of safety belts in airbag equipped vehicles?A an airbad will not deploy unless the corresponding safety belt mechanism is engagedB front airbags are not designed to be activated in side, rear, rollover or low speed frontal collisions. safety belts can hep reduce the rish of injusry to occupants under these conditinosC the use of safety belts are not required in an airbag equipped vehicle since airbags are safety belts perform the same functionD when safety belts are engaged, airbags will deploy at full power. when safety belts are disengaged, the airbags will deploy at low power
Answer:
I would find another line of employment. Your cheating off the nerd sitting next to you in school.
|
Question : How to Maintain a Variable Frequency Drive?
http://www.powtran.net/faq.aspHow To Maintain a VFDDo you know how to maintain Variable Frequency Drives (VFDs)? Doing so is easier than you might think. By integrating some simple, logical steps into your preventative maintenance program, you can ensure your drives provide many years of trouble-free service. Before looking at those steps, let's quickly review what is a VFD and how it works? A Quick OverviewA VFD controls the speed, torque and direction of an AC Induction motor. It takes fixed voltage and frequency AC input and converts it to a variable voltage and frequency AC output. See Training Note "What is a VFD?" for a more detailed description of VFD concepts and operating principles. In very small VFDs, a single power pack unit may contain the converter and inverter. Fairly involved control circuitry coordinates the switching of power devices, typically through a control board that dictates the firing of power components in the proper sequence. A microprocessor or Digital Signal Processor (DSP) meets all the internal logic and decision requirements. From this description, you can see a VFD is basically a computer and power supply. And the same safety and equipment precautions you'd apply to a computer and to a power supply apply here. VFD maintenance requirements fall into three basic categories:keep it clean; keep it dry; and keep the connections tight. Let's look at each of these. Keep it CleanMost VFDs fall into the NEMA 1 category (side vents for cooling airflow) or NEMA 12 category (sealed, dust-tight enclosure). Drives that fall in the NEMA 1 category are susceptible to dust contamination. Dust on VFD hardware can cause a lack of airflow, resulting in diminished performance from heat sinks and circulating fans (Photo 1).Photo 1, Fan Injecting Dust into Drive EnclosureDust on an electronic device can cause malfunction or even failure. Dust absorbs moisture, which also contributes to failure. Periodically spraying air through the heat sink fan is a good PM measure. Discharging compressed air into a VFD is a viable option in some environments, but typical plant air contains oil and water. To use compressed air for cooling, you must use air that is oil-free and dry or you are likely to do more harm than good. That requires a specialized, dedicated, and expensive air supply. And you still run the risk of generating electrostatic charges (ESD). A non-static generating spray or a reverse-operated ESD vacuum will reduce static build-up. Common plastics are prime generators of static electricity. The material in ESD vacuum cases and fans is a special, non-static generating plastic. These vacuums, and cans of non-static generating compressed air, are available through companies that specialize in static control equipment. Keep it DryIn Photo 2 you can see what happened to a control board periodically subjected to a moist environment. Initially, this VFD was wall-mounted in a clean, dry area of a mechanical room and moisture was not a problem. However, as is often the case, a well-meaning modification led to problems. In this example, an area of the building required a dehumidifier close to the mechanical room. Since wall space was available above the VFD, this is where the dehumidifier went. Unfortunately, the VFD was a NEMA 1 enclosure style (side vents and no seal around the cover). The obvious result was water dripping from the dehumidifier into the drive. In six months, the VFD accumulated enough water to produce circuit board corrosion.Photo 2, Corrosion on Board Traces Caused by MoistureWhat about condensation? Some VFD manufacturers included a type of "condensation protection" on earlier product versions. When the mercury dipped below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, the software logic would not allow the drive to start. VFDs seldom offer this protection today. If you operate the VFD all day every day, the normal radiant heat from the heatsink should prevent condensation. Unless the unit is in continuous operation, use a NEMA 12 enclosure and thermostatically controlled space heater if you locate it where condensation is likely. Keep Connections TightWhile this sounds basic, checking connections is a step many people miss or do incorrectly - and the requirement applies even in clean rooms. Heat cycles and mechanical vibration can lead to sub-standard connections, as can standard PM practices. Retorquing screws is not a good idea, and further tightening an already tight connection can ruin the connection (see Sidebar). Bad connections eventually lead to arcing. Arcing at the VFD input could result in nuisance over voltage faults, clearing of input fuses, or damage to protective components. Arcing at the VFD output could result in over-current faults, or even damage to the power components. Photos 3 and 4 show what can happen. Loose control wiring connections can cause erratic operation. For example, a loose S
Answer:
This sounds like a laboratory project for physics or engineering. You might try to ask in engineering especially, as this is a very complex and long topic you've asked.
|
Question : Is a cracked flywheel covered in a drive train warrany?
For the tranny it covers: "All internally lubricated parts withing the transmission and transfer case; Torque converter; Vacuum modulator valve; Gear cases and housing are covered if damaged as a result of a mechanical failure to an internally lubricated part"Would this include replacement of a cracked flywheel?Its an automatic 2001 Saab 95 SE 3.0 Turbo V6
Answer:
yes it should be covered.
|
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
|
|