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K&N KN-303 Oil Filter K&N KN-303 Oil Filter
Price : $13.99 $12.59
Features :
  1. Oil Filter; Powersports

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

X-STREAM OIL FLTR HON/KAW

Customer Review :

K&N, known for quality

Really the only option compared to Kawasaki brand filter. The exterior nut makes its very easy to torque perfectly. Combined with the K&N air filter (another quality product) my Concours 14 sings.

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great oil filter at a great price

I rate K & N filters at the top and these were available at an excellent price, even with shipping included!

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Great filter for the Yamaha R1

The KN-303 filter is what is used on my 2005 Yamaha R1. The filter has a 17mm lug on the top, which makes installation really easy. There is limited space between the filter and the headers, so being able to use an end wrench to install it is very nice. This saves having to have a special filter wrench for the OEM style filters. It also has a little hole where you can safety wire it for when you go to the track. Very nice filter.

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One of the Fundamentals

If you've tuned your bike or other vehicle for performance, no point in using something else. K&N quality lives up to the hype.

- FB

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K&N KN-303 oil filter

I have used K&N filters on many different bikes over the years and totaling over 200,000 miles and have never had a problem with them or any engine I was using them on. Always a proper fit and no installation troubles.

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Mobil 1 M1-108 Extended Performance Oil Filter, Pack of 2 Mobil 1 M1-108 Extended Performance Oil Filter, Pack of 2
Price : $29.98 $22.59
Features :
  1. Provides long-life performance for today?s longer drain intervals
  2. Effectively removes contaminants, with a 99.6 percent Multi-Pass Efficiency Rating and an advanced synthetic fiber blend media
  3. Holds double the contaminants versus the leading brand, with 28.0 grams of total capacity
  4. Withstands nine times normal system operating pressure, for exceptional protection up to 615 psi
  5. Prevents dry starts by eliminating internal leakage during shutdown through the use of a silicone anti-drain back valve (where required by OEM)

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

With the rising cost of fuel, parts and labor, it’s no wonder today’s driver is looking for ways to extend vehicle service intervals. Fortunately, you can offer a solution to help your customer minimize the risk of extended oil drains without compromising vehicle performan and protect your bottom line at the same time. The Mobil 1 Extended Performance (M1EP) filter line’s proprietary design traps and holds more dirt than the leading brand. The offering now includes both spin-on and cartridge oil filters, providing over 97 percent Vehicles in Operation (VIO) coverage. M1EP filters can be used with any motor oil. To obtain the ultimate protection for your engine - use Mobil 1 Oil Filters with Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oils.

Customer Review :

No review yet

K&N HP-1007 Oil Filter K&N HP-1007 Oil Filter
Price : $15.17 $9.66
Features :
  1. Buick, Chevrolet, & Oldsmobile

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Originally developed for demanding auto race applications, our premium oil filter is rapidly becoming a favorite among consumers for its durability and easy removal. We've changed oil filters and several of our product development technicians are sportsman class drag racers. They insisted we offer an oil filter that corrected the headaches they experienced over the years changing oil filters. We have all been there: Whether it's remembering where that disappearing canister tool is; or having oil leak all over your garage and yourself; or finally giving up and pounding a screwdriver through the filter just to get if off. Each of our automotive and marine oil filters comes with a 1 nut welded to the top of the canister so they can be easily wrenched-off with a standard tool. Our motorcycle and ATV oil filters come with a 17 mm nut. Our oil filters use resin impregnated cellulose filter media. This allows for higher flow rates while providing outstanding filtration. High filter flow rates are important in racing vehicles where heavier grade oil is used and the oil is pumped much faster than in a standard vehicle. When the engine is circulating oil at high GPM rates, the high-flow oil filter helps reduce the loss of pressure through the filtering process. To satisfy the demands of racers, our oil filter has many features over and above the requirements of most vehicles. We use thicker canister walls for extra strength and durability which reduces the risk of damage from loose rocks and debris. The heavy-duty construction will withstand higher oil pressures found only in racing environments without bursting. The drilled hole on the nut is for a safety wire attachment. Required for many types of racing, the safety wire prevents blown oil filters from falling on the track and representing a hazard to other race vehicles. This extra engineering offers peace of mind for consumers who want only the best.

Customer Review :

What More Do You Want?

I have been buying these K & N Filters for many years, and i use RedLine 10W-40 in my LS-2 Supercharged engine. This Pontiac GTO has approx. 575 H.P. under ther hood and i wouldn't use any other filter. Better yet, this price beats all other prices i have paid and i will buy from these guys for their price and their immediate shipping! Great deal overall...

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Very good price for this oil Filter

I bought 3 of this oil filter for very good price plus free shipping. but when I get them at my home 2 of them the top of them were broking, so I had to call Amazon Customer service and they were very nice the shipped a 2 new oil filter and I resave it in the next day and also retune tag for what I have. In the end I really liked it and I will buy next time more from Amazon.

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Superior Flow and Filtering

I use Synthetic Oil (Mobil 1) because I feel it flows better in the weather extremes and protects better all the time.
I have used Delco Blue (PF), Delco Gold (UPF), Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters...I want it all ...quality product, better filtering but not at the expense of oil starvation...I need proper oil flow. I feel that the Mobil 1 and K&N Filters are similar (in weight) to each other while being heavier than the stock and upgraded AC Delco filters but the K&N has an advantage of the attached nut for easier removal and the price on Amazon made it the better choice for me.

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well worth it

just search oil filter reviews.you will learn alot,always used fram till i found out how they are made,cheap is putting it mildly. do yourself and your car a favor get the best K & N

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Can't beat the price for these on Amazon

These are high quality filters and the 1" nut has revolutionized the removal and installation. We all already know this.

The best part about buying these on Amazon is that you will save around 45% compared to the local auto shops if you catch them on the sales Amazon offers about once every two weeks with a promotion automatically applied (It's a $5 off promotion if you buy 3 or more that always seems to be there for these, you can see the details for this in the description). I just purchased 3 of them through Amazon for less than $25, where they would have cost me $42 plus tax at the store.

$9.86 a piece while on sale, free shipping, no tax, and an extra $5 off at check out...Can't beat it!



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K&N HP-7007 Oil Filter K&N HP-7007 Oil Filter
Price : $15.17 $9.66
Features :
  1. Heavy-Duty Construction for Extreme Conditions
  2. Sturdy Wrench Nut Makes Oil Filter Removal Quick and Easy
  3. Resin-impregnated Filter Media Provides Maximum Filtering Surface for Contaminant Removal
  4. Anti-drainback Valve (where applicable) Eliminates Dry Starts, Prevents Oil from Draining back into Crankcase during Engine Shutdown
  5. Drilled Safety Wire Holes for Racing

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

K&N Cartridge Oil Filters are designed to satisfy the needs of racers and engine builders as well as the average vehicle owner who wants the best oil filter available. K&N cartridge oil filters trap harmful contaminants while the filter's construction al

Customer Review :

The best.

Quality is very good. It came with both the rubber seal and metal ring for oil pan bolt. Thanks again Amazon!

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Fits 2001 bmw 325i

Fits 2001 BMW 325i and seems to work pretty good. You don't hear much about K&N in the BMW online forums but I'm not sure why. This filter even says "made in Germany" right on it. It looks and feels like a pretty good quality one too. Mine came with the 2 seals in the bag, but i only used the large rubber one since I use a MityVac to change the oil.

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B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit
Price : $8.12 $6.99
Features :
  1. Turns a typical transmission pan without a drain plug into a convenient transmission pan with a drain plug
  2. Quick and easy modification
  3. After installation, draining the transmission fluid can be accomplished without the mess and hassles of removing the pan
  4. Genuine B&M accessory
  5. Backed by the manufacturer with a 1 year limited warranty

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Draining the transmission fluid can be a hot, messy chore if you have to remove the entire transmission pan just to drain the fluid, but the next time could be the last time -- if you add B&M's universal drain plug. With the pan off the car, simply drill a hole and bolt in the drain plug kit. With this quick, simple, and efficient modification in place, future ATF changes can be much simpler and neater. The non-magnetic plug is designed for use in most transmission pans that did not come with a factory drain.

Customer Review :

Exactly what is needed to keep tranny fluid out of your hair

This is exactly what you need to put in the transmission pan the next time you have the pan off. Then, changing the trans fluid the next time is a breeze, all you have to do is drain it for 10 minutes, then remove the pan to replace the filter. No more tranny fluid in the hair!

Easy to install, just make sure the clearance is in the pan and drill a 1/2 inch hole, tighten and your done!

Rating :



Saves money

I own a 2000 Dodge Intrepid. The transmission oil pan does not have a drain plug. You have to drop the pan and it is very very messy. With this plug you can drain the ATF then drop the pain to replace the filter with out having a red stain mess on the garage floor, not to mention a nasty smell that lingers for days if it hits the floor.

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Universal Drain Plug Kit

I just installed it in my Jeep automatic transmission pan during a fluid change, had fluid every where when I removed the pan, this wont be a problem next time, the pan will be near empty. I wont know how well it works until I drive another 30,000 miles and do the next fluid change, but I am sure it wont be getting all over me.

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Questions & Answers
Question : Re-doing audio system in Jeep, but not sure what parts I will NEED. Help?
I'm looking at re-doing my entire stereo system in my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Problem is, I'm not entirely sure exactly what I'm going to need. I'm not looking for "shut off the engine and vibrate down the road," which would, of course, be cool, but a system that sounds good and performs half-decently. Can I limit myself to simply a head unit, amp, and speakers? Or should I have more? Additionally, what's the best amp for the money?Forgot to mention, the factory system is essentially dead. It puts out sound, music even, but it sounds high-pitched and is, well, pretty crappy, and no where near as loud as it is supposed to be.

Answer:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22017_Pioneer+DEH-2200UB.htmlhttp://www.sonicelectronix.com/item _16541_Pioneer+TS-A1683R.htmlhttp://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16654_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W1208D2.ht mlhttp://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7566_Sonic+Sub+Box-+1SL12-1.0+-BLACK+CARPET-.htmlhttp://www.so nicelectronix.com/item_22381_Pioneer+GM-D7500M.htmlhttp://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18678_Absolut e+KIT6.htmlyou can choose the install equipment for the head unit if you click add to cart.hope this helps.

 

Question : Car problems please help!!!!?
have a 2001 Chevy Cavalier 2.4L and it has 103,000kms on it, I have done reg. maintanence on it since I bought it 1 1/2 years ago and have not had to fix a thing. Anyways..my problem is that it won't start. I had to boost it this morning to get to work and its a 1/2hour drive(all electronics were off on the drive here). I got to work and tried to start it about 1 1/2 hours later and its dead again, apparently the batteries not holding a charge. My b/f looked at it quickly this morning and said it could be the alternator or the battery. My check engine light has been going on and off for the past few months(is this the reason why?).....anyone have any ideas on what it might be, and if so how much it might cost for the parts - my b/f is very mechanical and could fix/install the parts himself. I'm just asking because he did not have time to look at it this morning and I just would like to have some sort of answer so I'm not worring all day long....Thx in advance to all who answer! Additional Details1 hour agoAS I said my check engine light has been going on then off and I don't have $100 to spend to be hooked up to a damn computer just to tell me why the sensor keeps going on then off. And no I have not been ignoring it.41 minutes agoI would also like to add that my alternator is making a high pitch squealing/squeaking noise and that I have a new stereo system hooked up to my battery for an amp & Subs but they are not hooked up.4 minutes agoI'm in Ontario, CanadaFor everyone that keeps suggesting Auto Zone - I AM IN CANADA< WE DO NOT HAVE AUTO ZONES HEREJust for the record "ne_plus_ultra_1" in case you can't read I DO NOT have sub and amp hooked up and they were gifts. And I also do not listen to rap music. I don't need to be critcized by you. I'm just looking for possible answers, hence why I posted this question in Yahoo ANSWERS. Thank you again for all the OTHER answers.

Answer:
Here's what's going on. You alternator is dying a slow and painful death. While it's putting out enough to keep your car running, it's not putting out enough to charge up your battery also. The first clue is that your alternator is squealing, it's a sign of a bad bearing in the alternator. The second clue is that you had to get a jump. Chances are that since this has been going on fo a while it's also taken a toll on your battery, especially if your battery is more than 2 years old. Replace your alternator and sepentine belt now. With your extra stereo equipment this would be a good time to see if there is a higher amp alternator availible. Also going into the colder months, now would be a good time to replace your battery if it's weak.

 

Question : 2000 pontiac firebird v6 engine reduce power light on rough idle problem?
ok i have a 2000 pontiac firebird 3.8 v6. the other day i checked a fuse.. it was the abs batt 2 fuse, and replaced with another 50 amp fuse. after that i started the car and it is running rough and the engine reduced power light is on. it actually did it when my friend started it without the fuse in. now that is in though still engine reduced power. i have it at a mechanic now and he is saying that it is the throttle body and the part cost 900. i dont believe it is the throttle body and it doesnt cost that much???? what could it be

Answer:
Ask your mechanic to record and then Clear this code for you. Pay him his diagnostic fee and drive the car. If the problem is real, you'll be back in no time. Or maybe you caused the problem with the fuse. Good Luck TW

 

Question : 2000 Chrysler Concord 3.2L wont start
I have a 2000 Chrysler Concord, 3.2L engine. I tried starting my car today and all I heard was a click everytime I try to start it. Now all the lights in the car comes on alright, the horn works fine, lights super bright, but when I try to start, its a click. I DON'T know whats wrong with because the last time I started it which was tuesday, it started perfectly fine. Now I have a power wire that was running my amp hooked up to the positive part of the battery. I disconnected it today and when I tried to start it 5 hours later I started getting this problem. I dont know if that was the cause but PLEASE ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. Also someone told me to turn off on off on 3 times for a code and I got a 1684 code from the odometer which when I looked up meant battery has been disconnected since last start. SO PLEASE I NEED HELP ASAP. ANYTHING thank you.

Answer:
I would suggest you remove the battery terminals and clean the terminals and battery posts till they shine.

 

Question : Ford, 2000 Taurus, Engine cooling fans don't come on.. problem continues..?
So I have resorted to the shot-gun effect of replacing parts.... I replaced the Engine Temp. Switch.. that feeds the computer.. not the dash one. I also replaced what I thought was the main start relay for the fans from the fuse block under the hood up by the battery .. but the Chiltons/owners manual never says.. cooling fan relay... so I changed that one that said "fan start relay" or something to that effect ... (I used the new one as a tester to compair the others to)... so I checked each relay (the larger ones) power in & out and got it to "click" and with the continuity checker the switch to assure contact between the switch part of the relay is functioning... so far... everything seems to be working? The main 40 amp fuse is good... the duel cooling fans should be kicking on when I run the A.C. and temp gauge is on the high side... but nothing... nada... what am I missing... possibly does anyone know exactly which relay kicks these fans on... (I wiggled connections, checked fuses and kind of at a loss here.. I know it is probably something simple... but can't seem to find it...)Ideas?

Answer:
You should have two systems to activate your fans one is coolant temperature and the other turns it on with the AC. For both to fail is unusual I would check the wiring going to the fan and if you haven't yet check the fan make sure it is working. I once had a car that the wiring burned out to the fan I ended up wiring the fan to a 30 amp relay and triggered it with a ignition on source wasn't pretty but it worked. Good Luck

 

Question : Engine Noise from rear speakers?
I have power running from my battery to my trunk, from there it goes through a Dual-Amp Maxi-Fused Distributor Block which splits the power into 2 parts. The first part goes to a 4 channel amp that is grounded and connected to my 2 rear 6x9 speakers. The other half goes through my mono amp which is connected to a 10 inch sub-woofer and is also grounded. From my car's stock power supply for my radio i have power running through a noise filter and then to my radio. From my radio there is an RCA cable running all the way back to my mono amp and from that amp it is connected to my 4-channel amp. The RCA cables i use are gold plated monster cables. My four channel amp is not connected to the front 2 speakers which are stock and don't do much.My question is I am getting engine noise from my 2 rear 6x9 speakers. What can be the cause, I hope I gave enough detail.The Car is a 2002 honda civic, the head unit is a panasonic, the mono amp and sub are rockford, the 4-channel amp is unknown and the 6x9 are JL i believe

Answer:
Disconnect the RCA jack to the 4 channel amp, if you still get it, it's in the power/ground, if not, it's probably coming from the head unit, check it's ground, you could also have a "ground loop" with the RCAs being so long, the way to solve that is to find a way to remove the outer ground shield from one end of the RCA.

 

Question : How do you run a wire through the engine compartment into the main part of the car in a Jeep Grand Cherokee 97?
I'm installing subs and an amp in a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The amp needs power from the battery of the car but in order to do that you need to run the battery wire from the engine to the inside of the car and there is no hole to run it through. Has anyone ever done this before or have a simple solution?

Answer:
For the amp to receive enough power it needs to be connected to the battery. If you look at the firewall, all the way to the right (next to the master cylinder) there should be an entrance with wires already running through it. You can poke a hole through the rubber and run it straight through.

 

Question : How can I get rid of the buzzing on my car speakers?
Details: I have a Pioneer head unit, two audiobahn amps (1 full range, 1 sub), 4 pioneer full range speakers, and a Diamond Sub.The buzzing sounds like it's a ground loop problem, but I've tried grounding everything. The buzz is high pitched and the pitch changes when the engine accelerates.Today I noticed that if I touch the pointy inside part of the rca wire on the outside part of the rca hole on the amp, the buzz went away, but the sound lost volume also. Does that mean anything? Do I need ground loop isolators? How do you install them properly?Just so you know, I've already tried running a ground directly to the battery for the head unit. didn't work. Positive wire directly to the battery. didn't work. I have the grounds for the amps run into a distribution block and the positives run through a fused block. When I unplug the RCAs out of the amps, no noise. The power wires and the RCAs and speaker wires are on opposite sides of the car. HELP!

Answer:
You are missing the alternator capacitor. ~

 

Question : 1991 Chevy S-10 Show Truck Help?
I have a 1991 Chevy S10 2wd i'm building into a car show truck.Im reworking the body and having it custom painted,I'm putting lund hood scoops and a lund race back on it also and im putting a 1973 chevy 350 v8 4 bolt main engine in it im rebuilding the engine with all new parts painting it and chroming it out.my problem is i dont no what brand of sound system to put in it should i put a alpine kenwood what and subs and speaker and amp what brand and how many watts and stuff should i do thanks so much for any info idc how much the stuff cost like i said its gonna be a show truck but i dont want to put alot of money in a sound system when im just gonna be using it to take to car shows its really for looks really and like i said cost dosnt consern me

Answer:
Not true! Sound systems do come into play as being a new show truck rather then a 1966 car. Best bet is stay with Infinity or Alpine and get reciever with bluetooth, ipod, USB and out puts for expansion. at minimum you will want 3 amps. 1 to front, 1 to back and 1 to sub. Speakers will be best bought as componet speakers as that shows workmanship. Remember in your class you will find 5-10,000 sytems.

 

Question : if i did and serious damage to car alternator or any other engine part?
i was using a jump N carry pro start/charger 600-12 volt Dc . 1700 peak amp car battery charger to start my car since battery was dead. what i did was place the postive clamp from charger to negative post of car battery. when i notice smoking coming from the inside of charger then a pop noise . i am sure i burned out charger but i am wondering if i did any damage to car

Answer:
Start the car if it starts and the alternator isn't charging, check the fuses. If that doesn't fix it, bring it into a shop.The fuses should blow preventing serious damage, that's why they are there.

 

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