Questions & Answers
Question : 4x4 Gurus, can you help me out?
I have a '78 GMC K5 Blazer removable hardtop parts truck. Any info on what transfer case or front axle it has? NP205? Could it have a Dana axle?And is it possible to rotate the transfer case on the mounting flange to get a better driveshaft angle, or does it have to be level to function properly?Also (last one) would it screw up the transfer case if I run full power to the front axle only (basically disconnect the rear driveshaft)?Weird questions, I know, but any help would be greatly appreciated.It's an automatic, Turbo 350, I think, but possibly 400.
Answer:
if the tranfercase shifter is round [looks like round bar] its gear drive if it looks like flat bar its chain drive [ in a 78 most likely] tranfer case is braced to frame would involve alot of work to rotate on the flange, may not be possible. to get a better angle make or get wedges for front axle to help correct angle of drive shaft try to keep the angle 10 degrees or less so the ujoints don't bind. if it has a dana 44 you would be lucky, if memory serves me right the dana 44 had a 3rd member punkin. and the other style had an inspection cover that was on the front. i am not positive about this though....
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Question : GMC Front IFS Axle Seal?
Hello, So here's the deal, I have an '05 GMC 3500 4x4 Diesel Dually. Just spotted a bunch of oil spots under the drivers side front fender, upon closer inspection, the axle seal is pretty well shot, not the point to where it leaks constantly, but to the point that it makes a mess once everything's up to operating temperature. Because of where I live, 4 wheel drive is a necessity, and I cannot afford to replace more critical componets inside the front axle when all I have to do is replace a $30 seal. The bad news, I do not have the mechanical know-how to do this particular project.About how much would anyone estimate this repair to be? I realize there is a lot of exterior componets that need to come off (CV shaft, hub, wheel bearings, tires, brakes and calipers) But all in all it does not seem to be something that can't be done for a relatively reasonable price? The seal in question is not at the hub, but at the front axle housing. The CV Shaft, joints, bearings, etc are not leaking. The CV shaft has an 8 bolt flange just to the outside of the differential housing, that is where it bolts to the inside axleshaft, the seal just behind that flange, between it and the differential is the one leaking. Anyone have an idea as to the price tag I'm looking at for this repair?
Answer:
Actually it pretty easy done it dozens of times.Ya pop off the lower ball joint on some ya undo the tie rod end ,ya undo the big nut on the axel end undo the 8 bolts on the axel flange.Pull he axel out.Hit the backside of the flange it should pop right out.pull the old seal out.install the new one.Reaassemble is reverse order.Then check the front diff fluid.I would get about 120-130$ where i work.
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Question : what is a differential flange?
Im trying to work out how to build a go-kart. I believe i need 6 differential flanges (2 for the front and back wheels and then 1 for the sprocket connected to the drive chain and 1 for a disc brake). I dont really understand what a differential flange is, as far as i can see its just a plate which makes wheels and things easier to attach to an axle of some sort. Does it have another function?
Answer:
Im trying to work out how to build a go-kart. I believe i need 6 differential flanges (2 for the front and back wheels and then 1 for the sprocket connected to the drive chain and 1 for a disc brake). I dont really understand what a differential flange is, as far as i can see its just a plate which makes wheels and things easier to attach to an axle of some sort. Does it have another function?
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Question : Where can I get a Harley hub for my custom build?
I might be looking for NOS, an aftermarket manufacturer or maybe an OEM part. Honestly, I don't know much about HD parts.I need a hub with these qualities:Forty spoke, 3/4" axle for a narrow glide front end, sealed bearings pre-installed with no flanges at all. It'll be laced up to a 16" rim with a new SS spoke set. It's going on the front of an old school bobber build with no front brake. If you know where I can get the part I'm looking for or what it would come off of, let me know. If there's some other part to achieve the look I'm going for, I'd be glad to hear it. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
Answer:
Dennis Kirk,Custom Chrome,Jireh all sell glide hubs.What your looking for is called a spindle.
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Question : GM axle identification help?? Something is wrong here?
I am currently selling my 10 bolt that i pulled out of my 1968 gto. However, when measuring the flange-to-flange measurement, it comes out to 56.5 inches. That's the measurement for a 64-67 a-body rearend. (68-72 should be 58.5). THIS MEANS THAT MY REAREND IS A 64-67 REAREND RIGHT?However, there's a date code that says D169D=April16= (april) 16th9= 1969.....???if the date code says 1969, why is the flange-to-flange measurement 56.5 inches??However when I did some research, I came across this on multiple websites:"1967 was a transition year in which A-cars might have a 1964-66 style rearend, a 1968-72 rearend (which is wider, and commonly available), or a "hybrid" rearend, which will have the 58.5" width"i have a 1968 gto THAT WAS SOLD IN DECEMBER OF 1967 (an early bird). So it was built in 1967. im so confused right now as to what rearend i have, as the only codes i can come across are:D169979?08the letter Nand no sign of an 8 digit+ # (ex: 3894938N) and no code on the tubes (this rearend is badly degraded and covered in grease-mud)
Answer:
You will have to clean it off, you will need that code to determine what it is. Sometimes, they do stamp if on the ring gear but not too sure on the very older yearsYou could type in your complete vin online for a search. there are some places online that have the old VIN id's & gives you what they had equipped
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Question : what are the pros and cons of a flange versus a yoke on a ford 8.8 rear axle in a fullsize 90 bronco?
got a ford 8.8 3.55ls in my 84 bronco that is still in excellent condition but has a yoke setup. my 90 has the flange setup and needs axle bearings seals pinion bearings and seal. rear brakes and drums due to the axle seals leaking to keep it going and probably new clutches in the limited slip i get an occasional loss of power that kinda feels like a tranny not grabbing but only after a turn and there had been regular tranny fluid put in it once but never flushed it all out due to the other problems. got good gear lube in it now after it got desperatly low again. the 84 is probably just gonna become a local plow truck since body is half falling off till the body goes more then gonna take the newer engine out and any other good parts and scrape it.
Answer:
None really. It just made it easier for Ford to put them in more vehicles. Just use a different flange for diferent U-joint sizes. The flange is easier to remove the driveline from, if you ever have to service it.
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Question : is hi-ten good for a lot of city riding?
i am a 15 year old who weighs about 100 pounds. i do a lot of bike riding. i go on long rides on some not so smooth paths. is this bike good for my needs?http://www.republicbike.com/Total assembled weight: 24lbs (10.9 kgs)Frame: Hi-ten steel. Fully tig welded with track type rear drop-outs. No braze-ons, cable guides or cable stops.Forks: Tig welded hi-ten steel with straight ovalised blades. 1 1/8" threadless.Handlebars: Alloy 500mm riser bar.Tires: 700C x 23C (100psi) nylon race tires.Wheels: 32-spoke, 700C 30mm deep section alloy aero rims on Assess large flange alloy hubs. Nutted axles to both front and rear.Crankset: Sugino XD2 170mm alloy crankset with 44T Sugino 5-bolt chainring.Chain: KMC Z410 painted chains.Bottom bracket: Sealed bearing catridge bottom bracket.Fixed/Freewheel: flip-flop hub with fixed gear and freewheel, both 16T.Pedals: Wellgo with included toe clips.Grips: 110mm.Brakes: C-Star alloy dual pivot calipers with cam action cable tension release, alloy lever, plastic base.Seat post: 250mm x 25.4mm.Saddle: Soft-top race saddle width saddle stitch.Front, rear and wheel reflectors included.
Answer:
it's cute, but hi-ten is the lowest quality steel you can make a frame out of. try finding a used bike, it's better for the environment, and if you like biking enough, then you should spend $400 on a new bike.
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Question : Is a Steel frame okay for a bmx bike?
im a beginner so is it okay for a frame if you need to know more about the bike its a diamond back and..Frame Hi-ten steel frame, welded Oryg tabs, dual cable routingFork Hi-ten steel 1 1/4" OD legs, 1 1/8" threadless steerer, 6mm dropoutsHeadset FSA 1 1/8" threadlessHandlebar Hi-ten steel 2-piece 24" x 6.75" riseGrips DB Team 'no-flange' w/ plastic bar end capsStem DB Alloy 4-bolt AheadBrakes LeeChi side-pull front, LeeChi U-brake rear w/ SST DC Amplifier, soft compound padsBrake Levers LeeChi alloy w/ reach adjustCranks 165mm steel 1-pieceSprocket 44t steelBB Loose ballPedals DB Sound alloy w/ molded traction pins, chromoly axleRims 48h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackHubs (F)48h steel shell w/ 3/8" axle (R)48h steel shell w/ 14mm axleChain KMC Z410 1/2 x 1/8Freewheel 16t freewheelTires DB Cellblock 20x2.1Spokes Black 14gSeat DB padded freestyleSeatpost 25.4mm steel pillarDetangler SST ORYGExtras Soft compound gray brake pads, DC-Amplifier
Answer:
Looks OK to me for an entry level bike. By the way, a steel frame is good for ANY bike. Some of the most expensive bikes in the world have steel frames.EDIT: Phil, you are clearly not knowledgable in the bike industry. Steel- which includes high tensile (1020), chrome molybdneum (4130), manganese molybdneum and others are some of the best materials for a bike frame available.EDIT: RYAN... CrMo IS STEEL- just a better grade.
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Question : what length spokes? Front: Formula DC-91 Hub. Rear: Deore Fh-M525 Hub. Rims: Sun Singletrack32hole. erd=491?
I am building Freeride wheels, need to know what spoke length to use...I think I know,just want to check...Rims: Sun Rims Singletrack Urban Camo 26" 507mm, 32hole, ERD=491mm, 540g, Width=31mm. Front Hub: Formula DC-91 32 hole, 14 guage, OLD=100mm, Axle length = 108mm, 214g. Rear Hub: Shimano Deore FH-M525, 449g, 135mm wide, Axle=146mm, 32 hole, spoke hole circle 61mm, right centre to flange 21.75mm, left centre to flange 35.35mm. I think: Front left = 237mm, right=239. Rear left = 237mm, right = 235mm. 12mm nipples, 2.0 DT Swiss Champion
Answer:
Apparently this didn't take the first time, so I'm re-typing. I tried to punch in your info to DT Swiss' spoke calculator, but I think your dimensions are way off. The ERD should be much more than 491mm....they list it as 543mm for the 26" rim (sounds to me like you're working with the numbers for the 24" rim). At first glance, the spoke lengths you came up with look to be way too short....probably should be somewhere in the 255mm-ish range. If you're using 24" rim dimensions, that could be why you came up with such short spokes. The calculator doesn't list the Shimano hubs by model number, unfortunately, and Shimano's techdocs page doesn't list the measurements either. I tried it with the XT rear hub, but the dimensions are different than what you've listed. So, I'd recheck your dimension chart or measure the hubs yourself with a good set of calipers, and then go enter the info into the spoke calculator. It's a good one, I've used it many times and it's never been off. You can register if you want to, or just check the "terms of use" box and use it anonymously. http://www.dtswiss.com/SpokesCalc/Calculator.aspx Hope this helps....and those will be some sweet lookin' rims when you get them rolling! :o)
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Question : Is this a good BMX bike?
Felt Vault Bike (2009) Frame: 4130 cr-mo downtube, rest hi-ten , 20.5" ttl, tapered tubing, 5mm dropout, 1-1/8" head tube, usa bb, weld-on gyro tabs, seat stay mounted brake bosses. london mod brake device Forks: full hi-ten, 1-1/8" threadless steer tube, 1-1/8" blades, 5mm dropouts Cranks: 3-piece 8-spline tubular heat-treated cr-mo with pinch-bolt, 175mm Bottom Bracket: loose ball usa Sprocket: new felt steel "spacely" design, 36t x 1/8"Freewheel: odyssey 13t Chain: kmc z410 1/2 x 1/8 Rear Brake: new model fx340 tektro u-brake Front Brake: tektro aluminum caliper (int'l only) Levers: new model tektro xl320 alloy / alloy Bars: felt "wheelie bar", 630mm x 185mm, hi-ten Stem: new design front loading, cold forged alloy, threadless 1-1/8"Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Grips: fb grip 138mm length, 29mm diameter, 50mm flange, closed end Hubs: steel 3-pc 36 h front 48h rear, black ed, 14mm front and rear axle, m30 one side only, looseball Rims: alex 303 aluminum 36h front 48h rear, 28mm wide Tyres: felt "slip-not" dirt / trail 20 x 2.25 ft; 20 x 2.0 rear Seat: 1-pc cover, fb embossed logos, 7mm steel rails Seatpost: 25.4mm od steel tapered Seatclamp: felt single-bolt w/nutbar Pedals: new felt "backpedal 2" alloy platform Rotor: sst 1-1/8"Pegs: 1 pair 36mm black Extras: n/a Colour: night white or sand
Answer:
yes. kinks and some dk's are also good. dont completely recommend dk though. that is a good bike. look at the kink launch 2010 first before buying this bike, just to take a look at it. or the kink curb. get that bike probably, just making suggestions
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