Questions & Answers
Question : what would a built 92 honda hatch run in the 1/4?
im looking at buying a this car for 5k.is it a good deal? is it fast? 92 civic hatchgutted2.2 sohcBored .20 over d16y7 block Ported head Eagle H beam rods Wisco pistons Micro polished and balanced crank 3 inch downpipe heat wrapped 2.5 inch catback exhaust Skunk2 muffler Lightweight Flywheel Stage 2 clutch Turbo manifold .57 Garrett Trim Turbo 38mm Tial external wastegate MSD SCI box MSD Blaster SS external coil MSD super conductor wires MSD distributor cap AEM cam gear AEM high flow fuel rail RC 750CC injectors B&M fuel pressure regulator Autometer fuel pressure gauge God speed 24x12x3 front mount intercooler Tial bov ARP head studs Polyurethane motor mounts Polyurethane shifter bushings Walbro 255 fuel pump KMS block guard Skunk2 pro-series intake manifold GSR 62mm throttle body GM 3 bar map sensor KOYO aluminum radiator Cometic head gasket ECU chipped and cromed with chrome Pro KMS map sensor block
Answer:
im looking at buying a this car for 5k.is it a good deal? is it fast? 92 civic hatchgutted2.2 sohcBored .20 over d16y7 block Ported head Eagle H beam rods Wisco pistons Micro polished and balanced crank 3 inch downpipe heat wrapped 2.5 inch catback exhaust Skunk2 muffler Lightweight Flywheel Stage 2 clutch Turbo manifold .57 Garrett Trim Turbo 38mm Tial external wastegate MSD SCI box MSD Blaster SS external coil MSD super conductor wires MSD distributor cap AEM cam gear AEM high flow fuel rail RC 750CC injectors B&M fuel pressure regulator Autometer fuel pressure gauge God speed 24x12x3 front mount intercooler Tial bov ARP head studs Polyurethane motor mounts Polyurethane shifter bushings Walbro 255 fuel pump KMS block guard Skunk2 pro-series intake manifold GSR 62mm throttle body GM 3 bar map sensor KOYO aluminum radiator Cometic head gasket ECU chipped and cromed with chrome Pro KMS map sensor block
|
Question : How much could I sell for my 88 Mustang GT w/ the interior redone?
These are the things I've replaced on it.new exhaust from the headers back (2 1/2" flowmasters and bbk x-cross pipe)motor mounts spark plugs and wires valve cover gaskets and upper intake gaskert chrome door handles whole clear front head lights fog lights a brezel over the stick vaccum lines a new thermostatfan clutchfan bladewindshieldfront struts/shockstransmition mountfloor matswater pumpclutch kitclutch cabletiming cover gasketMDI coilstarterMDI ignition controlMDI distributor capBattery andthermostateI paid 3200 for the car and put about 2000 in it. I know I'm not gettin what I put in it but what should i get out of it.The milage is either 222000 or 122000the guy before me said there was a lot of high way miles on it. But the car runs very strong. W/ nothing wrong w/ the motor, no nockings or anything.
Answer:
You failed to mention the mileage and engine condition. You could try for $4000, but with gas prices they aren't selling for much...
|
Question : Is there a way to correct my distributor after engine fan was turned without distributor mounted on?
Was replacing head gaskets on my 68 Mustang, 289, AT, with AC but not hooked up (no belt on pulleys & removed compressor). Had to remove the bracket that holds the power steering pump because the screw that holds it in place (which also attaches to the right cylinder head) wouldn't easily come off. So my father in law was helping and since we didn't have much room to pull out the power steering pump toward the radiator, because the fan was in the way, he moved one of the fan blades out of the way just as I said, "NOOOOOO.... shi*." So I saw the pistons move and I know I had read somewhere not to turn the engine in any way while the distributor is not installed. So I'm pretty sure this moved the gear to where the distributor attaches and now I'm not sure how to put the distributor back on. Before this all happened I had marked the intake manifold and distributor with a sharpie just to know where it should align to, but since I now installed a new intake manifold AND the whole turning of the fan (clockwise), I don't know what to do or if I should worry too much or what... I'm open to links to figure out what to do myself, but from searching I haven't found too many, plus this is the first time I take on such a "big" project as far as mechanics are concerned. I know very very little of timing, as in nothing. I am familiar with the term and know it goes hand in hand with distributors, but no clue as to what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Answer:
You need to put the engine to TDC, (line the mark on your harmonic balancer with the TDC or 0 mark on the timing tab which will be the #1 cylinder). Then you'll need to get a long screw driver that will reach the slotted gear inside the distributor hole. Turn that gear so it corresponds with the rotor position pointing to the #1 sparkplug on the distributor cap when the distributor is dropped in, this may take a few tries at moving the gear with the screwdriver. If you need further assistance e- mail me and will figure it out. If you drop the distributor in after the engine's been disturbed your going to have problems. Good luck and hope this helps.
|
Question : where is the crankshaft position sensor located on a nissan maxima?
I have a 1994 nissan maxima. I changed the head gaskets and when I put it back together, the engine started but the rpm gauge didn't work. I have heard that it might be mounted on the distributor on on the engine. can someone help me figure out where the sensor is or what the problem might be. I also changed the original distributor rotor. it was working before I fixed it
Answer:
it might be down by the crank pulley.
|
Question : What would a fully built 92 hatch honda run in the 1/4?
im looking at buying a car with these mods for 5k.is it a good deal? is it fast?just built.2.2 sohcBored .20 over d16y7 block Ported head Eagle H beam rods Wisco pistons Micro polished and balanced crank 3 inch downpipe heat wrapped 2.5 inch catback exhaust Skunk2 muffler Lightweight Flywheel Stage 2 clutch Turbo manifold .57 Garrett Trim Turbo 38mm Tial external wastegate MSD SCI box MSD Blaster SS external coil MSD super conductor wires MSD distributor cap AEM cam gear AEM high flow fuel rail RC 750CC injectors B&M fuel pressure regulator Autometer fuel pressure gauge God speed 24x12x3 front mount intercooler Tial bov ARP head studs Polyurethane motor mounts Polyurethane shifter bushings Walbro 255 fuel pump KMS block guard Skunk2 pro-series intake manifold GSR 62mm throttle body GM 3 bar map sensor KOYO aluminum radiator Cometic head gasket ECU chipped and cromed with chrome Pro KMS map sensor block
Answer:
No, it's not fast.It will be relatively quick, however. But only for 1/4th of a mile. If I were to challenge you to a race to who could drive 200 miles the fastest, you would lose. If I was to race you to see how long your car would last, you would lose. If I were to race you on any other track than a 1/4th mile track, you would lose.Is it worth $5 grand? That's up to you to decide. I wouldn't pay $500 for it, though. There's a hundred different builds and cars that are better than that, for the price range.
|
Question : I have a misfire on my 1987 ford bronco 2?
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!
Answer:
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!
|
Question : 1994 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L V4 Rough idle in park and reverse?
Please only answer if you can help. I know a descent amount about vehicle mechanics, but this one stumps me. I have the car specified above, and the idle is very rough in park, ok in neutral, and even more rough in reverse. It is so bad that it shakes the whole dash and steering wheel. It also idles rough in drive with the brake depressed. On a slow take off the car seems to have a jumpy acceleration to about 10 mph and then everything is fine. The car shifts through the gears perfectly while driving so I don't think its a tranny problem.Things I have done:- Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor- Replaced fuel filter, air filter, and pcv valve/hose/grommet- Oil change- Added fuel injector cleaner- Replaced valve cover/rocker arm cover gasket- New accessory belt and timing beltCheck engine light is not on and everything else in the car works perfectly. Should I check my engine mounts and what should I look for? Should I check my ignitor which is inside the distributor cap and if so what should I look for? I haven't checked all of my hoses and lines but it is hard to beleive that just a vaccuum line could cause this big of a problem.This is my secondary vehicle so of course I'm not wanting to spend an arm and a leg.I also checked the Intake Air Control doing what the manual said to do and it is in good working condition. So that isn't the problem either. Thanks.
Answer:
I would inspect and replace your motor and transmission mounts. It could be just that simple. Good luck.
|
Question : how to change a distributor mounting gasket?
how to change a distributor mounting gasket?
Answer:
how to change a distributor mounting gasket?
|
Question : HELP PLEASE!! URGENT!! HELP HELP!! Nissan car going crazy!!?
HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 (VG30E)Please can someone tell me whats wrong with my car? I took the car to a mechanic to change the valve cover gaskets (both), clean the fuel injectors (the intake manifold was removed to reach the back 3 injectors), and the timing belt.The symptoms my car is having are the next:1. In cold start, when I turn on the engine, the revs start to hesitate and after about 4 seconds they are in normal idle speed (750 rpm).2. When I accelerate normally and then take my foot OFF the gas pedal (in 2nd gear, and sometimes still in 1rst gear), the REVs start to "OSCILLATE" from 1,000 rpm to almost 400 rpm! When the REVs come near 400 REVs, the car SHAKES and vibrates for about a second and a half, meaning that the car may stall! The oscilations are: 1000-400-1000-400-750 rpms. After that, the car starts to idle at normal idle speed, 750rpm.Im thinking that the reason may be: a. Bad installation of the gaskets. Vaccum leak. Air is entering or leaving the intake manifold because of a bad gasket installation? I asked the mechanic: "Hey, what about the intake manifold gasket? Did you replaced it with a NEW one?" and he said it was NOT necessary since the gasket was a "metallic gasket" and it can be used AGAIN. Is that OK to do? Ive been told that everytime you seperate 2 metallic components, you should put on a NEW gasket! b. Bad timing. He replaced the timing belt. I asked him about if he syncronized the distributor with the camshaft and the crankshaft (by looking at the timing marks in the belt and the sprockets), and he said "if it was not syncronized, the valves in your engine wee to hit the pistons". I know THAT may happen if timing is wrong, but BUT what if the piston is NOT reaching the TDC and the spark is starting before the REAL TDC? My car is lacking some power. I replaced the 02 sensor. Replaced the air filter. The filter it had before was SMALLER, so some dirt and dust was getting into the engine! This affects the engines life! Dont know WHY it had a smaller airfilter! The car was crashed and maybe the reapir guy put he WRONG filter. Replaced the fuel filter. Repalced spark plug wires. SEIWA. The stock wires were SEIWA too. The Injectors were cleaned, and tested and came out OK. Replaced spark plugs. First the car was runnning with brand new NGK spark plugs, and after I told the mechanic the car was lacking power EVEN AFTER all the replacement were done to the car, he said: 1rst. The NGK spark plugs are OK. 2nd. After couple weeks, the car stil was lacking power, then he said the NGK spark plugs were wroong, he replaced them with Denso. The car is still lacking power! and the MPG is nasty! I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION: There is a BOLT that is connected to the distributor (not inside the distributor) and near the power transistor (its not the power transistor mounting bolt). A mechanic once told me that THIS BOLT is a sort of "adjustment bolt". According to the position (left or right) of the bolt, that would be the ANGLE of the ignition, im guessing maybe the TDC angle? In spanish they call it "ojo chino" since it looks like a chineese eye! Is a sort of "oval washer connected to a part in the distributor". So, what Im getting to is that BEFORE the timing belt was replaced, THAT BOLT was in the middle of that "oval washer". and AFTER the timing belt was replaced, the bolt is all the way to the right! I took some photos before I took the car to the mechanic to make some BEFORE-AFTER comparisons after replacement of parts. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT BOLT IM TALKING ABOUT?So my concern is:LACK OF POWER. Feeling some small vibration coming from the gas pedal everytime I push on it. Feeling like its running rough. After driving this car for over 3 years now, I KNOW THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG with the engine power! I remember a couple years before, when I accelerated ALL THE WAY, all the pedal to the floor, the car WAS REALLY STRONG AND FAST (i know its a minivan), but it has the same engine as the pathfinder, so it should be strong. Now I accelerate, and the ratio REVs/acceleration is not really the same as before. The revs go UP, but the car moves slower than before!BAD MPG! The car is doing about 13-15 mpg in city!!OSCILLATIONS in the REVs as described before.What if the timing belt was installed incorrectly? What if its not syncronized the way it should be with the distributor and TDC piston?
Answer:
Ok you have a lot to go through, so I'll start at the begining, 1st the timing is right or it would not start at all, take my word, one tooth off and it's a boat anchor, your idea of a vacuum leak seems right on, can cause all the problems you describe, finding it is the problem, look first at the hardest to find, that would be where the air cleaner has a vacuum line going to the motor, much overlooked and important to the fuel/air sensor that controls idle and fuel/air mixture and can cause poor performance and milage, if that fails, get your car at operating temp and a can of WD-40 and go hunting, spray in areas on top of the engine where your intake is, when you find a leak is when your engine starts stumbling and can die out, its an old trick that can be used on cars and motorcyles, when you find and fix the leak just wash the engine down (or not the WD won't hurt anything except collect dirt) the other piece points different because the slop taken up from the old belt.
|
Question : Why is my 1986 Jeep Cherokee is destroying serpentine belt?
I have replaced the alternator with a bone-yard unit. The belt will sometime run half way off the fan pulley, and other times, it will run off the back of the harmonic balancer. It is the 2.5 with power steering and air. It appears that all the pulleys are in line, except for the harmonic balancer. I have done a lot of engine work recently, to include, head gasket, timing chain, water pump, clutch fan, thermostat, ignition controle module, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button,and intake gaskets. I have checked the tightness on everything, and all is tight. I need to do the motor mounts next, but want to get this fixed first. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. THANXThis engine has no belt tensioner, the alternator is the adjusting point.
Answer:
As said above, being off a fraction of an inch can make a big difference. I would check a couple of things. - The "bone yard" alternator, is it from the same year, model? I don't know much about the Cherokee's but I do know that on the Grand Cherokee the alternator may look the same but there was a change half way thru the 93-94 model year and they won't interchange (but they look the same). Has something to do with the length of the pully shaft being 1mm longer.- Also it sounds like you have had a bunch of stuff off the engine, while doing all the work. Loosen everything up and make sure they are in the proper alignment Hope that helps, let us know what you find.
|
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
|
