Questions & Answers
Question : i need torque specs for my B16A3? full gasket set?
i bought a full gasket set for my 95 del sol engine (b16a3) and i need torque specs for metal head gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, valve stem seals, camshaft seal ,water pump gasket, rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pan gasket.
Answer:
Go buy the Chiltons or the Haynes for the 92-95 civics or actually for the cars that had b16a3s in them since you have a swap. You should probably just get both. Chilton and Haynes aren't perfect, but I always keep them handy for reasons just like this - much faster than trying to find it out online.
|
Question : 1989 corvette lower radiator hose burst.??? What can cause this?
Worried possible head gasket. I haven't drove the car in around 2 months prior to then it sat and was started occasionally ,150,000 miles. Just replaced starter has new upper radiator hose but the lower looks old and beat up. Oil looks dark brown or the color it has always looked. the car cooling fan doesnt turn on until 230 which is normal for this car from what I have read. I hadnt even reached that when it had burst I was in the car letting it run for about 20 minutes it was at approximately 185 I turned off due to cloud under hood by radiator, couldnt tell what happed cranked again and it ran fine for a few minutes and then around 200deg I seen antifreeze shooting out of the lower hose and sure enough a split crack in hose shooting antifreeze and when I squeezed it it gushed out. What caused the pressure? car still sounded fine after I cranked it again. I just hope not a head gasket failure. Also, I have already been told that the head gasket is a major job? 89 350 l98 tpi I have a socket set 100 piece? I replaced the starter in 25 minutes never done in my life. I am intrigued in working on my own car I actually am excited that there is something for me to do (radiator hose) but discouraged from the possibility of something extreme ( head gasket) then again I was scared of the starter but it was simple! Engine rebuild on 350 other then a cherry picker and engine stand what do I need normal sockes and maybe 30 in used odd tools from the local pawn shop? craigslist. How expensive to rebuild engine? How hard to swap out this 350 I would like to accomplish this if its not too difficult. Anything could be useful the main question is the hose but feel free to help with others... P.s I know somewhat about vehicles tran rear engine heads valves valve covers all the pulleys pistons rings rods I just have a feeling an engine looks like the inside of an old pocket watch haha please help!
Answer:
First thing to check is make sure there is no water in the oil. Something that is cheap but can end up costing allot is the radiator cap very important that it functions properly trust me. I would say you need a new thermostat. This is probably what caused the pressure. Just to be on the safe side after putting on a new hose, thermostat, and new cap. Get a pressure tester from auto zone they have a loaner tool section. Hook it up and start motor watch to see if it builds pressure up fast if not then pump it up to the psi it shows on the cap. Don't let it get too hot with the tester connected because the over flow can't function. This will cause the water to boil from lack of pressure. If it did not build pressure really fast take the tester off put the cap on and let it run a while. This will most likely be the problem. If you still have trouble then check for head gasket. Reconnect the tester pump up to the pressure it shows on the cap. Look for leaks if you can't find any then remove tester. Put cap back on let it get to operating temp and smell the exhaust with antifreeze will smell sweet. Hope this will help.Allot of the work to rebuild a motor is machine work. Heads and the block. They are not spring loaded like a clock but they are technical. But comparing a starter change to head gaskets or rebuild I would have to say this one is over your head. It is not just take apart put it back how you got it type thing. There are torque specifications for all bolt, nuts,orders and sequences. Some bolts get sealant some get oil ect. This is something you may want to do with someone who knows about it. Unless you just want to experiment get a Chilton's manual at least. I think that is a simple fix and will probably not be as major as you are thinking. Hope this will help have fun.
|
Question : 1991 ls400 for $1950 - 300k miles?
This is a LONG question and may seem silly to some (Most) but im just too curious to know and I cant get a decent answer from friends or family so for a Lexus Specialist or people with car wisdom...Ok, I have a $6500 to buying a car. Though this car is NOT the car I have set my sights on its the same model but not the same year. The car is a 1991 ls400 w/ 300k miles on it. Now I know what most of you are thinking but please just work with me here. If I bought this car with all of its mileage and assuming everything that would of gone wrong with the car already has even though he says there isn't any problems would you fix the car up with the extra money you have left over? (I would take it to a shop for a diagnostic test before buying this car but I'm assuming these would be the main problems with this model) All parts ordered online...-StrutMasters.com 4 shock coil conversion kit (650.00) service (200.00) at downtown mechanic-Power steering pump (191.00)-Power steering hose 3ft (8.24)-A1 Cardone power steering filter (3.45)-Timinig belt kit belt, tensioner, and idler pulley; Complete with detailed instructions (223.86)-Water pump (79.95)-Water pump braket (175.95)-Water pump gasket (2.99)-Altenator (107.21)-Air filter OE replacement or Air filter w/ 12mo or 12mi warrenty both (18.95)-A1 Cardone Rear, passenger side Brake Caliper (67.12)-Brake pad set (48.45)-Akebono Front Brake Pad Set 12mo or 12mi warrenty (56.95)-NGK Spark Plug - V-Power (3.20)-OE oil filter (3.95)-NSA Starter (154.50)-Fuel filter (21.95)-Brake Caliper repair kit 90-day or 4,000-mile warranty (27.24)-Automatic Transmission Filter Kit (57.95)-Shipping (350.00)-tax (200.00)-service (450.00)All equals $3102.91. Now adding the ls400 ($1950) its ($5052.91)Okay, I know that was a big load but when I compare that price to how much dealers or KBB would charge for this car its around 6000-7000. And the one I have had my eye on is a 1992 $5988 86k miles (I haven't negotiated a price yet) so if you can please give me your input on what you would do and/or if there are only a few things on the list you would fix along with something else I forgot.I'm only ASSUMING that all that stuff happened, I'm sure all of that stuff hasn't happended, and even if it did I would have the car looked over before buying it, i'm just curious as to why the amount to repair this car is less than the amount dealers will sell there cars knowing the problems behind them so would you guys buy the car and fix it up as the problems occur or just pay a higher price for car that dealers will tell you nothing wrong with?
Answer:
You're making a couple of big assumptions here which probably aren't valid.First, most of the parts you list are basically maintenance items. Brakes, shocks, filters, hoses, that kind of stuff. On a car with 300K miles, you have to question the transmission, if not the engine itself. There are tons of big ticket items not on your list that could break at any time.Next, your service estimates are REALLY, really low. I see $200 for shocks/struts (OK) and $450 for everything else. Replacement of a timing belt alone will run more than that - by including the phrase "complete with detailed instructions", it leads me to believe you are considering doing some work yourself. If you're a great mechanic with access to a full auto shop, maybe. But if you're not - a timing belt replacement is way over the average person's head, detailed instructions or no. On most car repair bills I've had to deal with, parts are maybe 1/3 the price, the other 2/3 is service. 50/50 at absolute best, not 80% parts, 20% service like you've described.Finally, at some point, it just doesn't make any sense to put more money in a car than it's worth. If a car is only worth $3K and you spend $3K to repair it, guess what - it's still only worth $3K. When it comes to resale or trade, you get no credit for any repairs you made. You have to walk away at some point. Far better to buy a newer more expensive car that is actually worth more to start.Bottom line, there is an awfully lot that can go wrong with a car w/ 300K miles. If you buy the car, you need to be prepared to foot a pretty expensive repair bill at the worst possible time for you, for something you probably never even thought of, and if too expensive, you have to be willing to haul it to the dump, cut your losses, and go buy something else. If you're not prepared to do that - keep looking.......
|
Question : Why doesn't my scooter start?
I have a 1980 NC50 Honda Express. I run it with a gutted muffler and no air filter. Allow me to take you through my most recent ride.I had just gotten new carb gaskets (upper/bowl seal and o-ring for the main jet). I installed them properly and went out for a ride. The scooter did over 25mph easily. About 20 minutes into my ride the motor starts lugging and losing power. I pull over and let it idle. After a minute of idling it sounds healthy, so I start to ride back home. About 5-10 minutes later it makes the same lugging sound, the scoot starts lurching, then abruptly shuts off. I wind up the tap-starter, but when i press the rear brake i find that it is jammed. I start to walk it home.After walking about 5 more minutes i tried starting it again. This time the motor moved freely but it did not start. This is where my dilemma begins.My guess is that i was running lean the entire time and overheated the piston causing it to sieze. After the piston cooled down it was able to move again. HOWEVER: when i took it home i removed the cylinder head and did not notice any scoring in the cylinder walls.I ran a compression test to find it holds 80psi (well within the 70-120 range the express needs to run). I checked spark (on a new plug) and got big blue sparks dancing across the electrodes. The point gap is firmly set at 0.15mm, the same as it was when the scoot was running. I tore apart the carb hoping to find some obstruction. I did not find anything but i cleaned it with compressed air anyways. The bowl does fill with fuel and the float works properly. The choke cable is not binding on anything and operates smoothly. I've tried starting it every way except with starter fluid.Is there a ghost in my engine? Why doesn't it start or run? I am completely lost, save me Internet.
Answer:
Years ago on a bike I had I had the same problem and found it was something in my gas. I drained and cleaned everything, put in new gas, and never had anymore problems.
|
Question : How much horse power and torque with this setup? and what size cam?
SBC CHEVY 383Bottom End:Eagle ESP Cast/Steel 3.750" Stroke Crankshaft (External Balance) 1 piece rear seal part # 103523750 or 2pc crank 103503750 6.0" 5140 steel SIR (Full float bushed) rods with ARP bolts (SIR6000BBLW), these rods are clearanced for up to a 600 lift cam! SRP forged flat top 11:1 with a 64 cc head, or 9.8:1 with a 72 cc head. SRP DISHED pistons 10.5:1 with a 58 cc head, 9:8:1 a 64 cc head, 9:1 with a 72 cc head. (Compression also dependant on your deck height) Pistons available in .020, .030, .040, or .060 Perfect Circle or Speed Pro Premium Plasma Moly Ring set Clevite 77 MS909P Main & CB663P Rod bearingsTop End:Dart Small Block Chevrolet Top End Kit. Part #01211101. Kit includes assembled 200cc Aluminum Dart Pro 1 cylinder heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, 64cc chambers, 1.250 single valve springs & straight plugs, a Dart dual plane aluminum intake manifold, gaskets, spark plugs, Dart stamped steel valve covers & ARP head boltsI still dont know the carb or cam size. Thats where any suggestions would help. AlsoI have heard building a 383 with this kit w/ Dart or World heads & cam you can easily built a 450 - 500hp motor.Is this true, or can I get even more out of it?This is going in a 1970 Nova, its not a daily driver. But will be driven on the street mostly.Looking to build a fast prostreet car.Current engine, 327, going to be using same block. I do not know the current bore size. I know the engine was rebuilt in 95, so I may need to go the .040 over but again im not 100% on that one yet.Full tube headers 1 3/4" to a 3"straight pipe to 2 chamber flowmasters
Answer:
ohhh, definitely sounds like fun! i like the 383 idea, plenty of torque low end. however, i don't like the dual plane manifold. if you're going to be racing this thing, you're gonna need more upper as that's where your rpm's are gonna be going through the trap. go with an edelbrock torqer 2 single low rise manifold. relatively cheap. you can add a 4 hole carb spacer to improve low end torque and throttle response. also, with this kind of cubes you're gonna want nothing less than a 600 carb, i'd go 770. holley makes a great street avenger series with vacuum secondary and electric choke. cam????lunati voodoo solid roller!!! with roller lifters and 1.6 roller rockers. i'd go bigger with the heads too, go with a dart iron eagle platinum 230cc intake, with the 72cc chamber. since this is going to lower your compression with flat tops, i'd go with something along the lines of a .100" domed piston, that's going to get you around 11.1 compression. that's where you need to be with this beast.now that you're salivating, i'll tell you to email me, and i'll talk with you about a possible transmission/rear end setup!
|
Question : Head Gasket replacement?
I have a 92 Honda Accord LX; there is a large puddle of oil under my car all the time. I have narrowed down the problems to the rear main seal (big drops on the underside of transmission) and what i think is a cracked head gasket (oil around intake manifold and side of crankcase). While I have no training or experience in auto repair, i am a tool and die maker and feel i am pretty mechanically inclined. My question is: how much time should i set aside to undertake this endeavor?
Answer:
give yourself two full days, maybe three, if you haven't done this before. first day to tear down/clean/inspect and decide what extra stuff you wanna do and buy parts. second day to reassemble. third day to figure out what you did wrong and why it wont start. F-series motor is non interference. rear main (your gonna wanna do front main w/oil pump since you're purdy much pulling the motor)head, intake, exhaust, cam cover, oil pan, gasket, exhaust donut. a t-belt, oil filter, oil, antifreeze.check head/intake/exhaust and deck for warp-age.maybe new head bolts if it's called for. new exhaust bolts are a must. prolly have to mess 'em up just pulling 'em. soak 'em w/penetrent the day before the repair.may want to replace the water pump and replace hoses. since you're there.even if you buy a gasket "set", there is always something else that needs to be done as well.TIP;match mark the distributor housing to the head before removal. then, during reassembly, before you put on the cam cover, turn the crank to TDC and ensure all rockers on the #1 cyl are loose. rotate the crank again if needed. if your distributor is back on at your mark, and the rotor is pointing at the #1 hole on the cap, it should fire the first time. you should be only a few degrees off when checking with your T-light.
|
Question : Engine pre detonation - car experts help?
Hi, i've just bought a Nissan skyline 1997 GT-R rwd twin-turbo, 2600cc manual. The modifications are as listed + moreRb26dett GT-R BNCR33 powered, Rear wheel driveTwin turbo: 2 x Steve Merch Hybrid turbosMassive Trust oil sump with breathersHeltec E6k ECURacing clutch: Carbon fiber cavalier weaveTial 50mm Blow off valve100 x 600 intercoolerGreedy turbo manifoldFull 3 inch exhaust systemCarbon fiber mirrors (comes with factory mirrors as well)Running on A symmetrical Micholen pilot sport tires 235 35 19Engine has just had a fresh rebuild, New Rings, pistons, Trust steel head gasket, big end and mains bearings. Trickytune have given it a run in tune; will need to have a retune after another 500kms of driving.The chassis has done 38,000km, and the engine is a fresh rebuild due to pre detination. Can anyone give me a little more insight into pre detination, and if this new engine is sweet?, ill give quotes from the owner."the car dont have any faults, gearbox is great"Q: why has the engine been rebuilt when its only done 38,000kms?A: Pre detination, it damaged number five piston Q: do you have receipts for rebuilt? A: Hi i have receipts yes, car will be sold to top bidder.Q: so has the problem been fixed.. so it will not happen again? any reason it shouldnt pass a wof? who did the convertion to RWD?A:Hello yes problem has been fixed, the ECU was not set right which caused the detination. Thier should be nothing to stop it getting a WOF it flew through last time. conversion was done by Mark Skully at Beyond Motorworks.I have spoken to the owner. His reserve for the car was $1 on an auction site, and he was hoping to get more than 20k (NZD) for the car. Unfortunately for him the car auction closed at $12750.00. I lost the auction, but have called him and offered him 15 grand cash. he is getting in touch with the auction site to make sure he is able to do this. I will have a vehicle assessment done on the car before i buy it. Is there any reason for this car to not be in fine working order?Seller is selling as needs cash for financial problems with mortgage.
Answer:
IT typically basically means the spark plug was firing too early, which damaged the engine. Good luck and I hope this helps
|
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
|
