MSD Ignition 8213 Chrome Universal Coil Bracket - Ignition Parts

The chrome plated MSD coil bracket offers easy universal mounting for standard size ignition coils, up to 2-1/4 diameter. Bracket is designed to mount to a fender well or firewall. It features a bolt and nut to secure the coil for a good looking mount with tab provided for external condenser mounting. MSD Ignition warrants its products to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use, if properly installed, for a period of one year from the date of purchase.

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Mallory 29227 Coil Bracket
Price : $13.59 $11.09
Features :

Absorbs shock and vibration
Prevents damage to coil winding and case
Fits voltmaster-type coil case and super-mag transformers

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Mallory Coil Brackets are designed to fit chrome electronic coil and breaker points of the ignition coil. They are made of dichromate and are gold plated for a long lasting finish. These brackets increase the stability of coil against mechanical shocks, radiation and vibration.

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Mallory 29224 Coil Bracket
Price : $27.19 $21.08
Features :

Absorbs shock and vibration
Prevents damage to coil winding and case
Fits voltmaster-type coil case and super-mag transformers

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Questions & Answers

Question : Do you find this excerpt grotesque?
This is one of the most brutal, disturbing scenes in my horror novel. The entire story is not this grotesque, but this particular part was meant to disgust the reader more so than the previous chapters. Could you please tell me if you find it frightening and grotesque, and also do you find it to be well writen? I would like to inform you as well that no this is not happening in reality. It is a dream in the mind of a scitzophrenic. Warning: This extract is not for the queasy.In the midst of the flames was a woman, strapped between two trees. Barbed wire was tied around her wrists and ankles, ripping away skin so deeply that bone was visible. The wire ran from her arms and legs to the two trees where it wrapped around the bark and cut into the wood. Not only were her wrists lacerated, but the tips of her fingers had been ripped away, as if she had torn them off with pliers. She wore a white dress, stained red with blood, and her mangled and singed brown hair draped over her left shoulder, darkening half of her face.As Jacob raised his eyes away from the ground he turned towards the woman. His face filled with disgust at the sight. He wanted to look away, he had to look away, but he couldn’t. His eyes stayed fixated on the revolting image. She was smiling at him, even through all of her pain she was smiling. In fact, it was as if she felt no pain… no pain at all. She was unhindered by her wounds, oblivious to them.“I told you he wasn’t dead, I told you! He’s going to take me away now! Just as soon as he comes. He’ll be here soon.” The flames lapped at her face as she spoke, singing her skin, but she continued to smile. The smell of burning flesh filled the air, replacing that of decomposition.Jacob was too stunned to speak. His mouth was dry and his tongue was limp. The heat from the fire began to cause sweats down his back and forehead. The only movement he could make was the tremble of fear that shook his body.Suddenly there was an abrupt crack and the woman shot her chest forward as she gasped for air. “Yes! He comes, he comes! He’s almost here!” She said. Her breathing was labored and with every breath she took she squirmed with pain. Another crack. Then another. Now silence. She raised her head and smiled at Jacob. “It’s time.”As she said this her chest burst open and the head of the demon busted through her broken ribs, showering Jacob with flecks of blood and pieces of bone. As it emerged it let out an ear splitting shriek and began to claw its boney hands through the narrow opening it had made, cracking ribs as it muscled its way through. Then, with a swift thrust of its hands, it ripped the opening of her chest wider until it tore upwards through the neck and cleaved her jaw in half. Downwards he had ripped her apart to her belly button, spilling out entrails over her dress. It let out another cry before pushing his arm through her chest and tearing his knee violently out of her body, further cleaving her in half.The woman watched as the demon vehemently tore through her body. She cringed with pain as it climbed out of her, ripping her in half. She wanted to scream, but she couldn’t as her mouth had been torn apart. The demon’s barbed wired skin shredded her flesh as it caught on her skin and ripped it away. With each move it made, its coiled barbs would tear more and more flesh out of her.She should be dead! Jacob thought as he watched in horror. How in the hell isn’t she dead? Yet her eyes darted back and forth, drifting from Jacob to the demon then back to Jacob.The fiend finally clawed his way through the woman, and collapsed onto the floor at her feet with a hard thud. As the demon fell, the woman’s wrists, which were not much more than bone now, snapped at the point of the barbed wire lacerations, and she crumpled to the ground too, sparking flames into the air. The barbed wire that was tied to her swung back towards the tree bouncing the hands off of the wood, where they hung in place swinging in circles as the barbed wire twisted.

Answer:
It's certainly not bad. You've got a great scene here, and you're a good writer.The ONLY thing is... since you're focusing on the description of the gory stuff... a lot of readers don't know what seeing a dead body is like. You've got good description, but it'd be a whole lot stronger if you created similes and comparisons to things that your readers will be able to "see" more vividly than something they've never seen before."...spilling out entrails over her dress."What if that was something like..."... spilling out entrails over her dress like thick spaghetti"You've got it goin on, but if you just added a FEW really strong bits of imagery, you could push it from uncomfortable (which is what it is now) to truly grotesque.Hope that helps!

Question : I still can' get any fire from the ignition coil?
I have replaced the ignition coil and double checked my ground strap for good connection. I'm guessing its my control module. The screw holes on it are very rusty, but the bottom plate looks good. What do ya'll think,cause its bugging me.

Answer:
I have replaced the ignition coil and double checked my ground strap for good connection. I'm guessing its my control module. The screw holes on it are very rusty, but the bottom plate looks good. What do ya'll think,cause its bugging me.

Question : Which Amp Will Be Good For 4 Of These Speakers?
LANZAR OPTI626.5" CAR SPEAKERSCustom Tooled Die-Cast Aluminum BasketSpecial Aluminum Alloy ConeNon-Fatiguing Butyl Rubber SurroundHigh Temperature Voice CoilHigh Density Barium Ferrite Magnet1'' Silk--Neo Aluminum TweeterPower Handling: 200 Watts RMS /400 Watts Peak eachFrequency Response: 55-22KHz eachImpedance: 4 Ohms eachMounting Depth: 2.7''CRUNCH P1800.4 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIERPowerZone Series 4-Channel AB Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 112.5 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 225 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, 4 ohms: 450 watts x 2 chan.Dynamic (Peak) Power Rating:4 ohms: 225 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 450 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, 4 ohms: 900 watts x 2 chan.MOSFET power supplyLED power and protection indicatorsTuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)Speaker-level inputs with soft turn-onDC, short, thermal, overload protectionIlluminated CRUNCH logoVariable high-pass filter (60-1200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)Variable input level control: 0.2V-5.0VFrequency response: 30-1,200 HzDimensions: 14.96"L x10"W x 2.16"HSPL 4 Channel 1600W Car Audio AmplifierGorilla Series Class A/B 4-Channel Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 180 watts x 4 chan.Bridged 4 ohm: 360 watts x 2 chan.Max power output: 1600 WattsRegulated MOSFET PMW power supplyAll connections on the front side for easy installationLED power indicatorsBass Boost (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)2/1 channel operationBridged Synchronization (Strap amps together to double your power!)Preamp RCA outputs3-Way system protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and short protection)Brilliant silver texture coat finishHeavy duty die cast aluminum alloy heatsink for extreme heat dissipationSilver-plated RCA level inputsSilver-plated screw terminalsVariable high-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 12 dB/octave)Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 12 dB/octave)Subsonic Filter (12 dB at 15-50 Hz)Frequency response: 10-30,000 HzDimensions: 11-3/4"L x 8-1/4"W x 2-1/8"HSPL FX4-1600 1600W Max, FX Series 4-Channel AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 180 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, @ 4 ohms: 360 watts x 2 chan.Full Mosfet Power SupplyPWM CircuitryFull Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/LowThree Way Protection Circuit2 Ohm Stable StereoTri-Mode CapableVariable Low Pass 40 Hz-250 HzVariable Hi Pass 40 Hz-250 HzVariable 18 dB Bass Boost @ 40 HzFrequency Response: 10 Hz to 30 KHzS/N Ratio: 98dBTHD: 0.02%System Distress Indicator4 Guage Power / Ground ConnectionPlatinum Plated RCA ConnectorsLine OutputHigh/Low Level Inputs with Floating GroundDimensions: 18.5" L x 11.1" W x 2.3" HSPL Phantom DK4-1000 Car Amp 4 channelBridgableRMS Power at 4 Ohms100 W x 4RMS Power at 2 Ohms125 W x 4Frequency Response10000 Hz - 30000 HzSignal to Noise Ratio98 dBTHD at Rated RMS Power0.02 %Crossover / EqualizerBass Boost With Bass BoostBass Boost Frequency40 HzLow - Pass Frequency40 Hz - 250 HzHigh - Pass Frequency40 Hz - 250 HzMOSFET Circuitry3 Way ReadyDimensionsWidth12.7 in.Depth10.3 in.Height2.3 in.

Answer:
LANZAR OPTI626.5" CAR SPEAKERSCustom Tooled Die-Cast Aluminum BasketSpecial Aluminum Alloy ConeNon-Fatiguing Butyl Rubber SurroundHigh Temperature Voice CoilHigh Density Barium Ferrite Magnet1'' Silk--Neo Aluminum TweeterPower Handling: 200 Watts RMS /400 Watts Peak eachFrequency Response: 55-22KHz eachImpedance: 4 Ohms eachMounting Depth: 2.7''CRUNCH P1800.4 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIERPowerZone Series 4-Channel AB Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 112.5 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 225 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, 4 ohms: 450 watts x 2 chan.Dynamic (Peak) Power Rating:4 ohms: 225 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 450 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, 4 ohms: 900 watts x 2 chan.MOSFET power supplyLED power and protection indicatorsTuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)Speaker-level inputs with soft turn-onDC, short, thermal, overload protectionIlluminated CRUNCH logoVariable high-pass filter (60-1200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)Variable input level control: 0.2V-5.0VFrequency response: 30-1,200 HzDimensions: 14.96"L x10"W x 2.16"HSPL 4 Channel 1600W Car Audio AmplifierGorilla Series Class A/B 4-Channel Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 180 watts x 4 chan.Bridged 4 ohm: 360 watts x 2 chan.Max power output: 1600 WattsRegulated MOSFET PMW power supplyAll connections on the front side for easy installationLED power indicatorsBass Boost (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)2/1 channel operationBridged Synchronization (Strap amps together to double your power!)Preamp RCA outputs3-Way system protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and short protection)Brilliant silver texture coat finishHeavy duty die cast aluminum alloy heatsink for extreme heat dissipationSilver-plated RCA level inputsSilver-plated screw terminalsVariable high-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 12 dB/octave)Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 12 dB/octave)Subsonic Filter (12 dB at 15-50 Hz)Frequency response: 10-30,000 HzDimensions: 11-3/4"L x 8-1/4"W x 2-1/8"HSPL FX4-1600 1600W Max, FX Series 4-Channel AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.2 ohms: 180 watts x 4 chan.Bridged, @ 4 ohms: 360 watts x 2 chan.Full Mosfet Power SupplyPWM CircuitryFull Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/LowThree Way Protection Circuit2 Ohm Stable StereoTri-Mode CapableVariable Low Pass 40 Hz-250 HzVariable Hi Pass 40 Hz-250 HzVariable 18 dB Bass Boost @ 40 HzFrequency Response: 10 Hz to 30 KHzS/N Ratio: 98dBTHD: 0.02%System Distress Indicator4 Guage Power / Ground ConnectionPlatinum Plated RCA ConnectorsLine OutputHigh/Low Level Inputs with Floating GroundDimensions: 18.5" L x 11.1" W x 2.3" HSPL Phantom DK4-1000 Car Amp 4 channelBridgableRMS Power at 4 Ohms100 W x 4RMS Power at 2 Ohms125 W x 4Frequency Response10000 Hz - 30000 HzSignal to Noise Ratio98 dBTHD at Rated RMS Power0.02 %Crossover / EqualizerBass Boost With Bass BoostBass Boost Frequency40 HzLow - Pass Frequency40 Hz - 250 HzHigh - Pass Frequency40 Hz - 250 HzMOSFET Circuitry3 Way ReadyDimensionsWidth12.7 in.Depth10.3 in.Height2.3 in.

Question : Irrigation question- leaking sprinklers?
Ok, so I have a station that has a Rainbird 100 DV valve and at the moment the sprinklers off this are very slowly weeping water. The valve runs fine, as in it turns on and off from the controller box and manually when operating the solenoid but ever since I had to repair the pipe leading to the valve as a coupling broke because it had a large root growing over it and I had attempted to remove the valve box to scoop the dirt away from the valve so I could work out what part of the garden it watered.the cover box had two plastic straps around the cutout part where the box sits over the pipe which i did not know was there (different type of valve box that I am used to) and assumed more roots had grown around the box making it hard to remove which lead to the coupling failing as I yanked the box out of the ground...oooops....so now that it has all been repaired, does anyone have a clue why its weeping? I dont think its the solenoid part with the coil as it turns on and off properly and the screen isn't clogged.Thanks morgan..that really helped, by doing a bit of soul searching I found that I was able to stop them leaking by changing myself. Cheers!

Answer:
Since your sprinkler was not leaking before you did the repair then you really only have two possibilities to the problem. The sprinkler head itself or the valve/solenoid. You repair could have caused some minor debris to get in the line and you should check the sprinkler head for debris. Check the filter in the head and also check the sprinkler nozzle. Also press down on the top of the sprinkler head to see if the shaft is fully seated because there may be debris causing it not to fully seat. The valve may look fine but the rubber diaphragm inside may have gone bad. That is a common problem. There also could be debris in the seat of the valve causing it not to fully seat properly. These are just possibilities and it is difficult to diagnose. It is just a matter of deductive reasoning when repairing sprinklers. I hope this has helped and rain bird has manuals that may give you more answers. Good luck.http://www.rainbird.com/diy/literature/index.htm

Question : 79 Camaro 350 HEI Ignition trouble?
engine turns over and has fire but will not start, I noticed when I took the coil pack out to check everything out to replace the cap and button, the black wire was screwed off across from the screw that had the ground strap hook-up should it be screwed on connecting the wire and screw and strap? Would that cause it not to start but everything almost fire up? My first build with hei distributor! help pleaseI have done everthing you can think of, I have replaced everthing, timing right, plug wires right, new everything, stock heads, weind acclerator intake port polished, holley 650 carb, new distributor, plugs, everything set right, bluew flames come out of headers, it almost fires but doesent, could it be cap or button, i used old one that came off, it was still good cond. was working just fine before i took it off for the rebuild top end.marks are set to 0 degrees, distributor set on compression stroke , firing order 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2, almost starts but doesen't blue flames, how fast does the engine need to turn to start, i have a kinda small battery using to start it, but it turns over pretty good, I used volt meter to test all wires, what could it be, rockers adjusted just right for start up, good compression, getting fuel, i used starting fluid a little to see if it was bad fuel still no better, same kind of firing, popping blue flames out of end of lond headman headersmarks are set to 0 degrees, distributor set on compression stroke , firing order 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2, almost starts but doesen't blue flames, how fast does the engine need to turn to start, i have a kinda small battery using to start it, but it turns over pretty good, I used volt meter to test all wires, what could it be, rockers adjusted just right for start up, good compression, getting fuel, i used starting fluid a little to see if it was bad fuel still no better, same kind of firing, popping blue flames out of end of lond headman headers

Answer:
I own a shop, and build many engines. Something is wrong with the ignition timing. It is firing, or you wouldn't have any flames coming out the exhaust, or other places for that matter. Do you have the gasket under the carburetor intalled wrong & sucking a lot of vacuum?Do this; Remove the #1 spark plug, place your thumb/finger over the hole while a buddy hits the starter in short quick bursts until it blows your finger off the hole. Look at the harmonic balancer to see where the zero is in relation to the line on the balancer, and turn the engine in which ever direction that is closest to the pointer. Set it to zero, and remove the distributor cap. Now.. where is the rotor pointing? It should be pointing straight at, or about 5-7 degrees counter clockwise from the #1 plug wire in the cap. If not, then you have found the culprit. If its in the correct notch; You should be able to move the distributor in each direction, and sweep both sides of the #1 wire position by several degrees without the vacuum chamber hitting the intake, or the valve cover. Before you do anything try this; Turn the distributor all the way towards the intake (counter clockwise), and see if it will then fire. If so, then you are out one notch on the distributor, so lift it out, go one notch in the counter clockwise direction, and drop it back down. Bump the starter until it falls into the oil pump, and replace the hold down clamp. Set it half way between the intake, and the valve cover, and it should fire.Another thing that comes to mind is this; Do you have the wrong balancer on the engine? They made two different ones, and one is 10 degrees different on the mark on the balancer because you used a timing light to look down through a tube at the 12:00 oclock position for TDC, while the other is looked at from the side at the 2:00 oclock position at TDC.Part 2:You might also replace the rotor button with a new one. Look at it closely to see if its broke, or has any lines on it that resemble pencil marks. Inspect the cap to see if it too has any marks in it. These are carbon trails, and can cause these type of problems. Look also to see if the center of the rotor button is shorting to the post the button sits on. This is "not" a mystery, and if its producing blue flames out the exhausts, then its firing!!! Its just not firing correctly. Its "so" easy to get one notch off on the distributor, and this "is" how they act when they are off.Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

Question : Please read, easy ten points?
Okay read only if it interest you. I'd love for someone to read it and give a nice thoughtful opinion/review/critique. Thank you again, you don't have to read it all.The men were at each others elbows. Above them, nested against the rock and metal, was an open vent that sent soiled air into the chamber. From the rear entrance another man came.This man was named Done Everheart though he never needed it in these tunnels. He made his way to the group of men standing before the rock wall. With his free hand he pushed one of the men and motioned for the rest to move. His voice was clear through his mask, “Get back.”He didn’t actually need them to move, but he did appreciate the room.On his back was a long slender tube. This is what he unclasped and swung around to face the wall before him. He mechanically set the dial to less than 10,000 degrees and set the safety off. He was bathed in brilliant blue light as fire shot from the machine.This was what he lived for, this was what he was trained to do. Years of working in the mine and for this one moment when everything wasn’t black and everything seemed alive.Then he looked over his shoulder and saw the creatures behind him. Their bodies were heavy and folded with straps of padding on their hands and joints. Thick eyes that pointed slightly upward, in the shape of hollow teardrops that could have screamed for mercy. The shapeless face that was no more than an inward slant to suggest the form of a nose beneath it. The blank mouth where there was, to the side of the cheek, two coils that led to air tanks on the hip.He wondered what noise they would make if he turned his body. If the flames were set to them. Would they scream in alien tongue? Would they melt or harden like stone? He looked back, the rock was gone. In it’s place was a tunnel that opened at the mouth and tapered to a point.He let the flame die, motioned for one of the creatures to come to him, and waited. The kneeling thing before him looked up. It’s face was empty, but still it longed for contact. He heard a click, the snap of the radio coming alive, and then the familiar click of four beeps as the radio warmed up. A voice came to him, it sounded dead, “No readings. Just keep burning.”Done nodded, did he nod? He felt like it was more of a spasm. No matter the creature was now making it’s way behind him again. He woke the machine and let it’s flame burn away at the rock once more.It was almost ten years ago now that he had first come down here. To the coal mines that not even his father had been so desperate to need. Not even when he was starving.A noise broke his concentration, not the cool slide of fire from the machine, but a sharp twisted noise. He looked to the side then saw what had made the noise. One of the creatures was setting a pillar on the ground. He watched as it rose and impaled the rock. A framework of metal spread like a web from the column. That was what the creature did day and night in these tunnels.Done had not yet heard a noise since then. How much time had passed now? His feet started to hurt and his arms were tired. He guessed not longer than an hour.In times of crisis the coal mine had been here. In depression and famine the coal mine was always alive. Always here to feed the poor and help the depraved. It was the savior of the people, but only because of the greed that kept it alive. Not the greed from the city above, no. His city would never be able to have greed, it was too busy starving. This greed came from others. From the business owners that fed automobiles and factories. Done hated them so much, but he needed them, just like he needed… air.It happened suddenly. His nose kept flexing, but nothing came. A vacuum. He reached to his side, let the machine burn in one hand, and felt his hip for the tanks. A cool salve of oxygen rushed through his lungs. Saved once more.Three beeps sounded over his radio. Good, he still had three more tanks left. Another long tone came telling him he had plenty of fuel left for the machine.This is more or less a second draft, I wrote the first draft but re-wrote this without looking at the first draft so it was done mostly from memory of course I changed it alot as well. I also spellchecked it a few times so I'm sorry if there's are grammar or spelling mistakes, but I don't think there are a lot.No, it's not Don, it's Done... I uh, kind of made that up without thinking and I wrote the whole thing like that so the name stuck, but I'll probably change it later... I actually took out most of the technical stuff to make it less boring. I doubt you want to hear nice descriptions about dials and buttons and shapes, lol... and about him... well this is an interlude between two different parts of a book so it's a bridge that connects two different times... the "present" and the "future" if you would, so the character himself isn't all too important. It's more about the setting and the time and what's happening in their world that's important. Thanks for reading it by the way :)

Answer:
You read and reviewed mine, so here:Yeah, really good! I wish you'd explained who he was a bit more, though. I think you wanted to keep it kind of mysterious, right? I think you still could have done that, and told us a bit more. Also, I couldn't really tell what he was doing, something about a dial? A tube? I wish you'd explained what he was doing a bit more. I couldn't really picture it in my mind. Still, really good! And exciting!

Question : how to ground voltage regulator on Chrysler 318?
I have an old WOODEN boat with a 1968 318 in it. I fried the ignition coil with a bad regulator. now i've replaced the 2 of them ,but no spark!!! i also put a ground strap from the regulator mounting plate to the block. is this the proper way to ground? there was an inch of an old strap hanging there, but no clue where it went. hard to ground to the hull, since it is wooden...help!!!

Answer:
Just make sure the ground path goes back to the battery neg terminal or wire it direct.

Question : I have a misfire on my 1987 ford bronco 2?
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!

Answer:
I have an odd problem on my bronco 2 2wd automatic. I have a part throttle misfire/hesitation/bucking that will occur when either cold or warmed up to temperature. It will then flutter on deceleration, then idle rough while smelling like unburned fuel/ rotten eggs. Often it will die at idle, then i fire it back up and run excellent, then go and drive it, and it will go back into this odd mode. At wide open throttle it operates normally. I have blocked off the egr, checked timing, checked fuel pressure in relation to the vacuum, undone the exhaust Y-pipe and cats to rule out a melted cat/ plugged exhaust, replaced the fuel pump, ecm, fuel pressure regulator, checked the fuel lines, flushed the fuel tank, replaced the injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filters, air filter, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, idle air control, all vacuum lines, coil, o2 sensor, all ground straps, damper, tfi module, torque converter w/ trans rebuild, replaced engine harness w/ one from a wrecking yard (same year, california emissions, auto trans), engine/ trans mounts, drive shaft, new cam, lifters, heads (world products) radiator, water pump, rings, bearings, new thermostat, new hoses, new power steering pump, steering gear, shocks, a/c pump, r134a conversion w/ new receiver drier, new oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, resurfaced upper and lower intake manifold plenums, resurfaced deck on block, magnafluxed the block, new engine gasket kit...after all this, I then decided to take it to seven trained technicians 4 of them factory trained ford specialists, just for them to charge me about 2 hours a piece diagnostic to tell me that they cannot find what is going on. Now I'm wondering why this is happening, cause at this point, i'm just driven crazy!

Question : Which amplifier is the best for this subwoofer?
I have a kicker l7 12' subwoofer. Here are the specsSubwoofer Size : 12"Design : Dual Voice CoilPower Handling (RMS) : 750 WattsPower Handling (MAX) : 1500 WattsSensitivity : 88.6dBFrequency Response : 20Hz~100HzImpedance : DUAL 4-OhmsMounting Depth : 6-11/16"Approximate Weight : 65.3 LBSWhat amplifier do you reccomend for this Subwoofer. I have the following in mind. 1)Planet Audio TQ1201D1200W Class D Monoblock TORQ Power AmplifierMax Power (1 OHM): 1200W X 1RMS Power (1 OHM): 900W X 1RMS Power (2 OHMS): 500W X 1RMS Power (4 OHMS): 350W X 1Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V or 2V-8VSwitchable Phase Shift (0-180º)Variable Bass Boost (0 to +18dB)Continuously Variable Low Pass CrossoverRemote Subwoofer Level ControlVariable Subsonic Filter (15-40Hz)Low Level Inputs and OutputsHeavy Duty Set-Screw Style TerminalsIlluminated LogoStrapping Capability: Strap two amps together for twice the powerRemote subwoofer controlDatalink cable for strapping amps together (2 ohm only)Dimensions: 11-7/16"L x 2-3/8"H x 10"W2)Hifonics BXI 1210D1200W Class D Mono Block Brutus Series AmplifierRMS Power Output: 1 x 450 W @ 4 OhmsRMS Power Output: 1 x 900 W @ 2 OhmsRMS Power Output: 1 x 1200 W @ 1 OhmProtection: DC, Speaker Short, Thermal, OverloadPower Supply MOSFETAudio Output MOSFETDampening Factor: >250Signal To Noise Ratio (A-weighted): >95dBVariable Input Level Control (unbalanced): 0.2V - 9VInput Level Control (balanced): 0.04V - 18VInput Impedance (un-balanced): 47k-OhmInput Impedance (balanced): 20k-OhmPower / Diagnostic L.E.D.Variable Low Pass Filter / 24dB: 35Hz - 250HzVariable Subsonic Filter / 24dB: 15Hz - 35HzVariable Bass EQ: 0dB - +10dBPhase Shift (0 - +180 degrees)Unbalanced Inputs (RCA)Balanced Inputs (DIN)Line Output (RCA)Speaker Terminals (molded): 12gaPower/Ground Terminals (molded): 4gaRemote Bass Module: HFR-3Parametric bass EQ with 45Hz bass boost and variable control from 0db to 10db3)Kenwood KAC-9104D1800W Class D Monoblock Subwoofer AmplifierMono subwoofer amplifierRMS Power @ 2-Ohm: 900 watts x 1RMS Power @ 4-Ohm: 500 watts x 11-ohm stable (no power ratings available)CEA-2006 compliantClass D Amplifier CircuitAluminum Die Cast Heat SinkPower MOS-FET Switching Power SupplyLine Output Terminals (RCA) for ExtensionGold Plated Power & Speaker TerminalDual Mono Drive ReadyCooling FanBuilt-in Variable Low-pass Filter 50-200Hz (24dB/oct)Built-in Infrasonic Filter 15/25Hz (18dB/oct)Bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)Subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave)Preamp-level inputs and outputsDimensions: 13-13/16"W x 2-5/16"H x 9-3/8"D

Answer:
The planet audio amp it tolow powered, not enough with a 2 ohm load, and the hifoniks and kenwood are to high powered @ 2ohm. you need 2 find an amp that has 700-750 @2ohm load

Question : Trouble starting an 87 Chevy Blazer 350 TBI?
No spark but power to all electrical components including injectors. Just turns over and over and over. I have replaced the coil thinking "Hmm, I have power to it and it is not working, it must be bad" but I was wrong. I then checked the ground strap to the back of the head to the body and all other grounds. Voltage at all components is 12.0 volts using a meter measured to the vehicle chasis, directly to pos and neg at the bat is 13.4. I am assuming that the computer is sending a set voltage(12 V exact) to all components it controls except the variable injector voltage to ramp up and down flow of gas. Pick up in the distributer? I cant take the pain anymore, please help. Over this weekend I have replaced the motor, tranny, transfer case and drivelines with many little obstacles to overcome and nickle and dimed to death! I cant take it! The truck ran before this, it just had a cracked head but I figured since I was in there changing the head... EVERYTHING is new or rebuilt, HELP PLEASE!

Answer:
There is a procedere you might try. You have no spark at the plugs I assume. Ok is the coil located on top of the cap or is it external. Either way this should help. If you have no spark at any plug w/ internal coil remove cap and inspect your rotor for a burnt spot under it around the part that fastens to the shaft. If OK on the side of your cap is a place for wires to plug in. Double check the 2 or 3 wire connector for proper installation. Next check you have 12 v with the key on at the batt side of the cap it will say on top. If you have no vaccume mechanical advance make sure your 3 or 4 wire connecter is connected right on the back of the motor [it is kinda hidden].Still no spark change you module inside the distributer. On external coil start with your coil wire [ replace with a known good one before you buy one ]. Next inspect your rotor.That should locate any problems. Remember if you have any doubt you may have a problem inside your distributer, borrow one before you buy. Thats the cheapest way I can think of. Good luck. Besides after a motor swap chances are your just over looking something.

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