MSD Ignition 84039 HEI Coil Wire - Ignition Parts

Ignition Coil Wire 8.5mm Super Conductor Black 18 Inches Long Supplied w/Dual Crimp Terminals Power Tower-To Adapt HEI Style Supplied With 90deg. Boots

Customer Review :

No review yet

Mr. Gasket 9723 Pro Ignition Wire Separator
Price : $9.69 $7.38
Features :

Separators for 8mm spark plug wires
Constructed from high temperature ABS plastic and chrome-plated
Includes two, 2-wire, 3-wire, and 4-wire separators and Allen wrench
Minimizes ignition crossfire and prolong spark plug wire life
Designed for easy removal and installation

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

This wire separator is designed for 8mm spark plug wires to help minimize ignition crossfire and improve engine performance. It is constructed from high-temperature ABS plastic and is chrome-plated. It also prolongs spark plug wire life by holding wires away from the hot engine and moving components, giving them a neat and custom look. This kit includes two 2-wire, 3-wire, and 4-wire separators, and an Allen wrench.

Customer Review :

Mr. Gasket 9723 Pro Ignition Wire Separator

These Chrome-like Wire Separators really add a nice "distinctive" touch to an otherwise "dull" component-i.e., Ignition Wires. (Star-like glimmer amid a universe of motor engine mechanics - for just a little money.)

Rating :

MSD Ignition 84049 Coil Wire Kit
Price : $19.40 $12.99
Features :

18 Inches LongSupplied w/Dual Crimp TerminalsPower Tower-To Adapt HEI StyleSupplied With 90deg. Boots

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Ignition Coil Wire 8.5mm Super Conductor Blaster/Socket Cap 18 Inches Long Supplied w/Dual Crimp Terminals Power Tower-To Adapt HEI Style Supplied With 90deg. Boots

Customer Review :

Too short

The cable is extremely short. Had to relocate my alternator to fit. For this amount of money, I expected a little bit more cable!

Rating :

ACCEL 170067 Competition Wire Separator Kit - Set of 6
Price : $24.89 $19.41
Features :

Made of black plastic
Securely holds the wires together
Clip-in plug wire attachment
Wire separator fits 8.8mm-9mm wires
Horizontal wire looms

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

The Accel Competition Wire Separator Kits are a least expensive, injection molded set of wire dividers that keep the ignition wires separated. The wires are routed over valve cover.

Customer Review :

No review yet

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Questions & Answers

Question : question about 1986 yamaha virago 700 electrical?
So I am rebuilding the electrical from scratch because the people I bought this bike from butchered it all to hell. Missing parts wired around, extra wires, stripped off stuff, etc So I still haven't got a start out of it yet and have already completed the following.... new wiring harness, new instrument cluster, rebuilt the right handlebar switch (still haven't finished wiring in the left one but that's just horn and signals) new reg/rec, new battery and wired it all in following a diagram in a clymers manual. (BTW very hard to read diagrams) I think i am missing a starter relay located near the battery but can't seem to find anyone who can locate what this part may be. In the manual it calls it a starter relay with 2 (maybe it was 3) wires connected to it, but it calls at least one other thing a starter relay. i can take the lead from the starter itself ( maybe its coming from the ignition coils ) at touch it to the positive post on the battery and get the starter to turn but not fire and when doing this I checked for spark and got nothing. I could have failed on the run stop switch and know I need to look at it again but I really need some help on what I need in between this lead from the starter (ignition coil) to the battery and what it looks like. (maybe even somewhere to order it) and if you can possibly, help with why it won't turn over when I put that lead straight onto the + post of the battery?I am a novice when it comes to bikes but have spent some time doing electrical on cars. never had to do on from scratch like this finding missing parts along the way. If someone has one of these bikes with pictures of all electrical complete that would help too.

Answer:
So I am rebuilding the electrical from scratch because the people I bought this bike from butchered it all to hell. Missing parts wired around, extra wires, stripped off stuff, etc So I still haven't got a start out of it yet and have already completed the following.... new wiring harness, new instrument cluster, rebuilt the right handlebar switch (still haven't finished wiring in the left one but that's just horn and signals) new reg/rec, new battery and wired it all in following a diagram in a clymers manual. (BTW very hard to read diagrams) I think i am missing a starter relay located near the battery but can't seem to find anyone who can locate what this part may be. In the manual it calls it a starter relay with 2 (maybe it was 3) wires connected to it, but it calls at least one other thing a starter relay. i can take the lead from the starter itself ( maybe its coming from the ignition coils ) at touch it to the positive post on the battery and get the starter to turn but not fire and when doing this I checked for spark and got nothing. I could have failed on the run stop switch and know I need to look at it again but I really need some help on what I need in between this lead from the starter (ignition coil) to the battery and what it looks like. (maybe even somewhere to order it) and if you can possibly, help with why it won't turn over when I put that lead straight onto the + post of the battery?I am a novice when it comes to bikes but have spent some time doing electrical on cars. never had to do on from scratch like this finding missing parts along the way. If someone has one of these bikes with pictures of all electrical complete that would help too.

Question : GAS, WIRING GOOD BUT NO GO!!!?
i put a cb125S engine in a go kart frame and it had a spark but no go last year, then i gave up on it and im trying it again this summer(actually have it all set up today) and this time, there's fuel, but no spark...how can i check the timing if its good?should i adjust the nettle that lets the power threw every time the engine is at the 'bang' part, or is that the timing?i found this on forums, on how to connect the wires. (this is just bones to make the engine run, no lights etc.)vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvAlternator has 3 wires output: pink, yellow, white. Tie the yellow and white together and run them as a single wire to one input side of the rectifier. Run the pink to the other input side of the rectifier.Rectifier mounted to frame. (+) output of rectifier to battery (+). (-) output of rectifier to unpainted chassis ground.(+) output of battery to kill switch. (-) output of battery to unpainted chassis ground.When kill switch is OFF, battery lead must not be connected to anything.When kill switch is ON, battery runs to ignition coil input. Coil is typically mounted to the frame up under the gas tank. Condenser is usually up there, too, but sometimes it'll be mounted on the points plate on the engine.Ignition coil output runs to the stock points wire and to the stock condenser wire (together, ie, in parallel).Main coil lead connects to spark plug, obviously. :)Done.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^i also have a video on youtube about this problem from last year, can anyone help me please????http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SNuBD449FUThe motor was given to me so I don't know the year. It has points. So guessing it's 70-79 would the points make a difference? I messed around with those and the interials like timing was not moved. Wish I could give someone 50 dollars and just be like do it and tell me what's wrong. Getting impatient with this engine.

Answer:
i put a cb125S engine in a go kart frame and it had a spark but no go last year, then i gave up on it and im trying it again this summer(actually have it all set up today) and this time, there's fuel, but no spark...how can i check the timing if its good?should i adjust the nettle that lets the power threw every time the engine is at the 'bang' part, or is that the timing?i found this on forums, on how to connect the wires. (this is just bones to make the engine run, no lights etc.)vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvAlternator has 3 wires output: pink, yellow, white. Tie the yellow and white together and run them as a single wire to one input side of the rectifier. Run the pink to the other input side of the rectifier.Rectifier mounted to frame. (+) output of rectifier to battery (+). (-) output of rectifier to unpainted chassis ground.(+) output of battery to kill switch. (-) output of battery to unpainted chassis ground.When kill switch is OFF, battery lead must not be connected to anything.When kill switch is ON, battery runs to ignition coil input. Coil is typically mounted to the frame up under the gas tank. Condenser is usually up there, too, but sometimes it'll be mounted on the points plate on the engine.Ignition coil output runs to the stock points wire and to the stock condenser wire (together, ie, in parallel).Main coil lead connects to spark plug, obviously. :)Done.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^i also have a video on youtube about this problem from last year, can anyone help me please????http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SNuBD449FUThe motor was given to me so I don't know the year. It has points. So guessing it's 70-79 would the points make a difference? I messed around with those and the interials like timing was not moved. Wish I could give someone 50 dollars and just be like do it and tell me what's wrong. Getting impatient with this engine.

Question : Why do people think a TBI system is more reliable than a carb when it has SO many more parts that can fail.?
I've been battling a TBI system on a 88 Chevy G20 (5.7) for a month and still no luck. The van was abused when I got it. I wanted to save the TBI for obvious reasons but am ready to downgrade so I can at least get to work every day. (getting half way to work, just don't pay the bills.) Now I'm as broke as it is.Symptoms: - Idle cycles hi - low until it shuts off. (sometimes) regardless of ambient or engine temperature. - Stalls on acceleration (ussualy) other times it runs fine for about a mile or two. - Will sometimes stall when idling.Clues and other factors: - Good compression - no smoke out the exhaust (since replacing head gaskets) - EGR and emmisions system was removed by previous owner(s). - OBD pulls up no codes and claims to be working properly. (12's all day long) - fuel psi test shows 10 to11 - resistance check of the coil shows good - all cylinders firing with blue spark - parts replaced so far include: battery,alternator,head gaskets,valve guide seals,all intake and exhaust gaskets, thermostat,vaccumm hoses,all tune up parts,MAP sensor,IAC valve,Coolant temp sensor,and ignition switch. - all wires checked from bumper to bumper - I have the book and am not afraid to use it.At this point I am out of money,time and patience.If I don't get it fixed soon, I may be out of a place to live too.I do have the parts to downgrade it if all else fails.I'd rather pay more for gas than pay for another tow and be stuck wondering, WTF now!10 points and a hardy handshake to anyone who can find what I missed.Thumbs up to anyone who has a lead.Engine will start after it stalls.Starts quicker if I tap the gas pedal.A new ignition module seems to have done the trick. (this is the first time I've had a bad one that would still start the motor.)I plan to road test when the rain stops.Many good suggestions from you guys, thanks for taking the time to answer.

Answer:
You seem to have pretty much covered it,good report,but a couple of things pop out for me.Dumb question time.reading between the lines the motor stops and can't restart?That paired with the surging suggests to me a fuel pressure/delivery problem.No mention in your list of pump replacement.Granted you list pressure but stay with me,Pressure and delivery rates are not the same thing,Look at the delivery rate,if high and return is difficult then the engine is gonna run rich whether the computer says or not..injector pulse width is the governing factor here,normal pulse width and intermitant low or restricted pressure will give your symptoms.You need to concentrate on fuel pump,fuel filter and dont forget fuel lines.had one once like yours that had been jacked up on the return line.pinched the line,that took some finding.And lastly dont forget the fuel filler cap,it's an oldie but goody,if your tank can't draw air to replace the volume of fuel drawn out,then eventually it will create a vacuum in the tank,again,your symptoms.One sure way to find out,set up a seperate slave fuel tank with pump/filter and feed return lines,if it runs good then,you know where the fault is,just a case of finding it.Good luck.BTW can't help but think the lack off egr and such means this isn't a new problem.somebody/s looked for this before you and couldn't find it.

Question : why is my bronco dieing while going down the road ? all the electrical ,shuts off and the dies?
3 days ago i had a power surge in my bronco ,i went to park turned off the key and it didnt shut off ,i got out and pulled the coil wire , babied it home. next day checked everything ,ie. fuses alt. batt.toggle switches.all good ,go 1 mile and it quits running ,tow to a shop . he said the ignition module burnt out .159.00 and 150 labor .i get in go 2 blocks ,dies again ? i took it back ,the thing is in mint condition ,but when i got it last month it had several wires cut ? so i put in starter,battery,water pump,radiator ,hoses,belts .reconnect all wirers ,and drive from oregan to az .all has been fine for 3 weeks excert only 12.36 volts when operate,use a twst light and it will jump to 13.66 volts ,tested alt at checker ,a+ check all fusible links x56 of them .check all wires under the hood ,like new , when i had the surge the other day it blew out both head lights im a good mechanic , i love a good challenge , i do all ,brakes to engines , but dang it im stumped . this is an 86 ford bronco 5.2 fuel injected 302 v8 4x4 in mint shape , this is a nice truck ,it sat for 2 years before i got ,hence all the parts ,injectors leak a tad , but why all the electrical now ?why didnt the fuse pop first rather than the head lights , ac motor went as fast as a jet at the same time , they cut the battery lead to alt and wired to a toggle switch,and a wire feeds the fuse panel ,no power inside with key switch . ill send you a pound of fudge or 20.00 just to pick a brain . tomorrow the shop will call wanting more money too. i gave 200.00 already and nothing to show for it . im unemployed ,dont they know? HELP .HELP;this has got me bad , no sleep .bad dreams trying to think ....what it is ? dam computers leave em in the house not in my truck please................

Answer:
Might have better luck getting answers in the FORD section not the Chevy sectionMy guess would be a bad ignition module...just because you replaced it does not mean its still good. Fuses blow for amps not volts...

Question : repeated spark plug failure on 1969 mercedes 280 se?
hello everybody.one of my cars is a1969 w108 mercedes with a fuel injected L6 engine.i keep on replacing spark plugs on it after a few minutes of idling...i did replace the ignition coil (bosch blue) by another one(bosch red) from a parts car...may this coil being defective by giving too much voltage,and may this condition lead to repeated spark plug failure(no more spark or completely wet with not even carbon deposit on the tip when taken off for a check)?i took the wire from the coil to the distributor off(on both sides) to perform a compression test(ok on all 6 cyl.),and i was surprised to see a very strong spark arcing from the lead of the coil to one of the terminals on the side of it(and there was a rubber boot on it...)it is the third set of plugs i am wasting and i just don't know what to do...thank you for your attention and have a good day.mike

Answer:
Is this a 6 volt system or a 12 volt system? I had a friend with a similar problem a few years ago. If memory serves me right, he had to order a special plug from NGK that was required for a 6 volt system. I think that might be a good starting point.

Question : 1985 rm 250 wont spark?
ok let me give as complete as discription as i can.it is an rm 250 but it has had diffrent parts put on by previous owners. i beleave the stator and cdi are from a 1979 the color on the wires dont match from stator to cdi but i was able to get it started for a while, the the stator wire at the coil broke no way to fix so i bought a new stator now i cant get it to start. unshure if i have wires going to the right cdi wires as they are diffrent color. i do get like 30 ish volts to the ignition coil, but no spark. on the original stator it has a wire conecting two coils then leads to cdi. another wire go to coils to cdi the the othere coil wire goes to ground then to cdi.on the new coil one wire conects the two coils and at the other end of coils the wires lead to the cdi with neither of them being grounded first.so i guess my question is is 30 ish volts to ignition coil enough that it should spark cuz coil test good as per ohm.and is the cdi for the 85 in some way groundig the stator wire which the 79 grounds at the stator.i think what im gonna do is just ground the stator wire which corsponds to the old one, and cross my fingers , but i will wait for any responce for about 6 hours.and if im being an idiot please dont hesatate to tell me cuz all i really care about is getting this bike going and yes i know i should just replace the whole electrical but allas im poor!

Answer:
did you check the distributor

Question : question about 1986 yamaha virago 700 electrical?
So I am rebuilding the electrical from scratch because the people I bought this bike from butchered it all to hell. Missing parts wired around, extra wires, stripped off stuff, etc So I still haven't got a start out of it yet and have already completed the following.... new wiring harness, new instrument cluster, rebuilt the right handlebar switch (still haven't finished wiring in the left one but that's just horn and signals) new reg/rec, new battery and wired it all in following a diagram in a clymers manual. (BTW very hard to read diagrams) I think i am missing a starter relay located near the battery but can't seem to find anyone who can locate what this part may be. In the manual it calls it a starter relay with 2 (maybe it was 3) wires connected to it, but it calls at least one other thing a starter relay. i can take the lead from the starter itself ( maybe its coming from the ignition coils ) at touch it to the positive post on the battery and get the starter to turn but not fire and when doing this I checked for spark and got nothing. I could have failed on the run stop switch and know I need to look at it again but I really need some help on what I need in between this lead from the starter (ignition coil) to the battery and what it looks like. (maybe even somewhere to order it) and if you can possibly, help with why it won't turn over when I put that lead straight onto the + post of the battery?I am a novice when it comes to bikes but have spent some time doing electrical on cars. never had to do on from scratch like this finding missing parts along the way. If someone has one of these bikes with pictures of all electrical complete that would help too.got a guy with one on hand just have to know what I am looking for as he lives in another state. Already swapped out for a new harness and set it up by the wiring diagram

Answer:
Try looking this solenoid up on a parts mircrofiche, such as found on Bikebandit.com under oem parts.These give a detailed view of various sections.My Hondas have the positive cable connected directly to one side of this solenoid, the other side connects to the starter, and then the smaller wire that closes the starter solenoid to activate the starter motor is connected, indirectly, to the starter button. The ignition coils connect through the keyed ignition/run-stop switch, and back through a main fuse, also comes off positive battery terminal but through a different path.

Question : my vw gl 4 cylynder 2.0 was having starting problems ............?
I was having starting problems and I changed the little ignition coil or thing that leads to the center rotor, and now the car is starting everytime,,, but the problem is when i drive down the street my car now runs like crap, is the timing off because of the new part? The part i changed was a small box by the firewall and its wire leads to the middle rotor plug.

Answer:
make sure you didnt knock a spark plug wire loose it can still be om just not pushed down all the way or you may have a bad wire

Question : repeated spark plug failure on 1969 mercedes 280 se?
hello everybody.one of my cars is a1969 w108 mercedes with a fuel injected L6 engine.i keep on replacing spark plugs on it after a few minutes of idling...i did replace the ignition coil (bosch blue) by another one(bosch red) from a parts car...may this coil being defective by giving too much voltage,and may this condition lead to repeated spark plug failure(no more spark or completely wet with not even carbon deposit on the tip when taken off for a check)?i took the wire from the coil to the distributor off(on both sides) to perform a compression test(ok on all 6 cyl.),and i was surprised to see a very strong spark arcing from the lead of the coil to one of the terminals on the side of it(and there was a rubber boot on it...)it is the third set of plugs i am wasting and i just don't know what to do...thank you for your attention and have a good day.mike

Answer:
Well, my #2 plug kept going out on me in my Dodge Neon because of a fuel pump issue. I have a very good friend who's a mechanic, and he said that normally the problems with spark plugs come from: too much fuel, not enough fuel, too much electricity, not enough electricity. My fuel pump wasn't putting out enough fuel and I had to replace it. Take it in to a shop and have somebody check it out for you.

Question : bmw 3 series m40 engine - No spark from coil to distributor and plugs?
The car died on me on my drive way as I was about going out, I have checked the plugs they burn well and I have even replaced them, The positive and negative of the coil have spark when ignition is turned on but when engine is cranked, the part of the coil leading to the distributor does not bring any spark. Please assist with what else I should check because The wires are new and working fine.

Answer:
replace the coil pack and if you have a coil pack you do not have a distributor its one or the other to contact mehttp://www.tellmemark.comhttp://www.tellmemark.com/how-to-test-a-coilpack/

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