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Equus 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor
Price : $25.57 $12.26
Features
: - Displays the condition of the battery and charging system
- Designed for 12-volt negative ground systems
- Protects the engine computer and 12-volt accessories from surges
- Easily plugs into a cigarette lighter or power receptacle
- Head pivots for easy viewing and angle adjustment
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Editorial Review :
This battery and charging system monitor displays the condition of your battery and charging system instantly. It protects the engine computer and 12-volt accessories from damaging surges when jump starting or recharging. You can easily plug into the vehicle's cigarette lighter or power receptacle to monitor battery and charging system voltage. It has an LCD screen which displays the measured voltage with a bar graph to indicate battery charge level and it also has color-coded LEDs which quickly identify the battery's charge status. The head pivots for easy viewing and angle adjustment.
Customer Review :
Great if it worked for more then 1 day
It looks cool and worked great, but it only worked for 1 day and that was it. Perhaps just like everything else in life; You may get a bad batch from time to time.
Rating : 
Extremely Useful Diagnostic Tool
I was skeptical that something this inexpensive could be so useful. But once you plug this tester into your cigarette lighter, you'll see this this little device is a lot more intelligent than you might think.
With the car not running, the tester shows your battery voltage and status. A little battery icon tells you that the tester knows the car is not running, and that the LCD is displaying Battery Status. You can see the exact voltage on the LCD screen. Novices can simply look at the red, yellow, or green LEDs to quickly determine the health of your battery. To put your mind at ease, a little bar graph shows you the relative battery voltage.
Once you start the car, the little battery icon goes out and you see a little charging circle icon displayed - this tells you the device knows the car is running and that it is now displaying Charging Status. After you let the engine warm up, hold the engine at about 2500 RPM. The neat little LCD display now shows you the alternator's charging voltage. A green LED will satisfy you that the charging system is healthy, a yellow will caution you that your charging system might need some maintenance, and finally the red LED alerts you that your battery is being either under- or over-charged. The LCD display and graph indicates the exact nature of any problems.
IT'S VERY IMPORTANT to note that your cigarette lighter socket must be COMPLETELY CLEAN for this tester to be happy and useful. Clean out the socket good with a plastic (NON-METALLIC!) brush, then blow any debris with a quick blast from a can of compressed air (blowing from your mouth is NOT enough). Proper operation of this tester will display the LCD voltage being stable, or moving either consistently up OR consistently down. If the voltage fluctuates erratically, or if the devices turns itself on and off, clean the cigarette lighter socket, then re-seat the tester firmly in the socket. If the device still behaves erratically, that's a sign that your battery terminals may be loose.
Most garages will charge you $20 a pop for what this wonderful tester does for a few bucks in three minutes. Someone with advanced knowledge of cars can have way too much fun with this tester.
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AWESOME FOR MY BOAT
This monitor replaces my old one which I gave away at our yacht club. Couldn't find another one at Walmart so got them here. This newer version displays voltage to two decimal places, which is useful on my 38' Sabre cruiser since I use it to tell what the relative electrical draw is when I turn on a particular light or device. I have an analog voltmeter on my electric panel, but this is far more useful. I also finally realized that this monitor does in fact have some mysterious circuitry which lets it judge the level of charge in the battery banks not only in the 10-12 volt range, when the engine and its alternator are off, but it can do this even while charging, when the voltage is running in the 13-14v range. Apparently its program detects whether or not the system is charging and judges the level of charge accordingly. And it does all this by just sampling the voltage in the boat "cigarette lighter". Its especially cheering that this automotive item works just fine for my boat since "Marine" equipment can be pricey. I bought three, one for the chart/electical area, one for my sleeping cabin and one for the cockpit so I can check battery use/ condition under sail when power can still be drawn down (GPS, Radar, radio),or in the evening when others may be using power (pumps, electic toilet, etc.) Drawing voltage down too far is bad for batteries and the worst case, not being able to start the engine, can be a disaster.
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Best gadget for the best price
On the strength of very positive reviews in the Casita Travel Trailer forum, I bought one of these gadgets for the Christmas stocking of all the guys in my family. At $12,26 it is very affordable and simply works. Plug it into your 12V socket and turn on the ignition. It will instantly tell you the status of your battery. Start the engine and it will instantly tell you the status of your charging system. For boats, RVs, any vehicle where you need to carefully monitor your electrical system, this is the ticket.
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Simply does what it is suppose to do!
I have a diesel truck that has gone through 4 alternators and 6 batteries in the last 8 years. After the last alternator I wised up and starting looking for a way to monitor this BUT didn't want to put an A pillar of gauges in the cab. I found this read tons of good reviews and bought it. I have used it for a fews months now through the winter and this little gem work like a charm! Probably the best 13 dollars I have spent in my life! Think about it what can you spend 13 dollars on for a car or boat that will save you a towing fee or being stranded. Best money I have ever spent PERIOD! I have bought several to give to family!
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PIAA 10904 H4 Intense White - H4 60/55W=135/125W Xtra Intense White Bulb, Twin Pack
Price : $64.99 Too low to display
Features
: - 55=110 watt XTRA
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Editorial Review :
The Name Says it All! PIAAs Intense White bulbs produce a more radiant white beam without any hint of blue. This bulb has been completely re-engineered from the ground up. What youll see in the 9005 and 9006 bulbs is a larger glass tube with a white top coat. The larger glass tube increases output (28% whiter color than STAR WHITE) and allows the bulb to burn at much cooler temperatures. PIAAs new Intense White Bulbs provide the best possible balance between performance and bulb life.
Customer Review :
Replacement light bulb for Motorcycle
Great stuff, much brighter than the stock (ninja 500). Oh, the shipping speed is incredible. I got the bulb the next day after I ordered it. Buy Amzon's stocks.
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one word- Awesome.
Super bright, especially with an upgraded headlight harness, with an "intense" white, much whiter than the extreme H4's I had ran for years.
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Great quality - but not that bright
These replaced Sylvania extra white bulbs on my Ford. These are not that much whiter or brighter than the Sylvanias, if any, and the Sylvanias are half the price. For my money, I don't think I'll replace with same after they die.
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very happy
I bought this for my suzuki dr650 and I could see an immediate improvement when i installed this bulb. I even compared it to my friends stock bulb and mine was brighter. I don't think it was twice as bright but there was a considerable improvement. The white light it puts off was very nice and seems to make it easier to see obstacles at night. I would recommend this bulb for all riders and car owners.
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Died After 1 Year, But Still Happy
I have had them installed on my Tacoma for the last year and overall have been pretty happy with them. At night they are very bright, brighter than most every other car on the road, but this also makes other drivers think I have my brights on so I get flashed by about one in 2 or 3 dozen people. Another thing to note is that during the evening these lights are much harder to distinguish on the ground than more yellow lights would be, but this may not affect most of you unless you are searching for small animals on the road during the evening like I am.
My driver side bulb just blew and I have had them in for about a year now. I have been very conservative about using them since I knew most halogens don't have long bulb life. This means I never had them on during the day and I kept the normal/brights switching to a bare minimum, yet I still only managed to get a year out of it. Of course, there's a possibility it was just a weak bulb so I'll append this review when the passenger side blows.
Despite what I consider to be a short life (maybe not compared to other halogens though), I will be purchasing another pair of these; partly because I have the intense white fog lights too and I want them to match, but also because I do love the pure white color of them at night and the fact that they are so much brighter than my stocks were.
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Halo Automotive White Super LED 194 Bulb - Twin Pack
Price : $27.99 $12.50
Features
: - Halo Super White LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) have an estimated life span of 100,000 hours
- Halo LED Bulbs use a super LED chip that provides 300 percentage more light than a standard LED chip
- Halo LED¿s use a fraction of the energy that a halogen bulb uses while providing brighter, more efficient and longer lasting light
- Utilizing the latest in LED technology Halo Super White LED¿s provide a pure white color unattainable from any other lighting technology
- Halo Bulbs outlast and out perform the competition for a fraction of the price
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Editorial Review :
Halo Super White LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) have an estimated life span of 100,000 hours. Utilizing the latest in LED technology Halo Super White LED’s provide a pure white color unattainable from any other lighting technology. Halo LED Bulbs use a super LED chip that provides 300 percentage more light than a standard LED chip. Halo LED’s use a fraction of the energy that a halogen bulb uses while providing brighter, more efficient and longer lasting light.
Customer Review :
super bright
These are very bright 1 watt leds. Only a wide beam forward firing light so won't work with reflectors but my application didn't require that. After going through several brands of leds these are the ones to keep.
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Good LED's Good Price
These went in my interior of my MKV gti and they actually are perfectly bright. Don't push these in too hard though becareful I had to bend one of the prongs back cuz I did it to hard but they function perfect they're a little hard to hold but that's not and issue. I prob just have big fingers.
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Great
I have tried other LEDs but for the size versus output of light these have is great. Smaller than OEM 194 bulb but put out more light, stay a lot cooler, and have less draw on my vehicles electrical system.
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Lexus-like Quality/Brightness
If you were looking for a quality bulb that that truely looks like those found on a new Lexus, this is it! Very Bright and crisp light. Looks better than O.E.M. in my opinion. Plus you can't beat the price!
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Bright LEDs
Got this for my 2005 Corolla. Compared to my old PIAAs, these bulbs are bright white! It really lights up the whole license plate making it easier to read from far distances. Recommended to anyone whose looking to replace their license plate bulbs or just to have that unique look!
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Hella HLA-H83145031 H7 12V/55W Halogen Bulb
Price : $9.13 $6.50
Features
: - Halogen bulbs by Hella can be relied upon for their long life and light output
- Rigorous testing ensures our bulbs will stand up to the wear and tear of everyday driving
- H7 12V 55W
- Single bulb, boxed
- One Year Limited Warranty on standard wattage bulbs only
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Editorial Review :
Halogen bulbs by Hella can be relied upon for their long life and light output. Rigorous testing ensures our bulbs will stand up to the wear and tear of everyday driving. All Hella bulbs undergo painstaking tests. The engineers in Hella's Quality Assurance department have specified a clear requirement profile for every bulb type. Headlight bulbs, for example, are scrutinized by our engineers for their light distribution properties, using state-of-the-art light measuring equipment. Paint adhesion tests in accordance with FAKRA guidelines (German Association of Automotive Experts), vibration and shock tests in line with IEC requirements, geometry measurements, light flux and power measurements as well as service life tests guarantee that you receive perfect quality. These and further tests are carried out by Hella's quality assurance engineers. All Hella quality bulbs fulfill this performance spectrum.
Customer Review :
Better than the big name bulbs
I seemed to blow through the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs VERY quickly. It seemed like I replaced each bulb every 3-6 months. I tried all their different gimmicks - cheap ones, expensive ones, long lasting, etc. I bought these Hella bulbs because they were a little less expensive. I can't remember when the last time was that I replaced a Hella. Overall, I'm very happy - they seem to last longer and are just as bright.
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PIAA 19172 168 Xtreme White Wedge Bulb - 2 Piece
Price : $15.95 $11.87
Features
: - 168 wedge bulbs used for turn signals, side marker lights, and parking lights
- Xtreme White color produces brilliant, cool white light with blue tint
- 5 watts of illumination
- Designed with high quality heat-resistant tube
- Twin pack
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Editorial Review :
The PIAA Specialty Miniature Bulbs are 168 wedge bulbs used for turn signals, side marker lights, and parking lights. They can be matched with both headlights and other accessories to create a sleek, unified look. Made with high-quality heat-resistant tubes, these 5 watt Xtreme White bulbs produce a brilliant, cool white light with a blue tint; they are sold in a twin pack.
Customer Review :
PIAA Extreme White bulbs
Bulbs were great, I was hoping for a little more brightness with these but they definitely suffice...
Rating :    
Piaa Wedge Bulbs replace OE "City Lights"
The Piaa bulbs work just fine; nice and white. Finally, the "city lights" on my MB C55 AMG match the zenon headlights.
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Not as bright as advertised
They're white, but they're not bright as the OEM driving light bulbs of a MINI Cooper.
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Nice deal
Excellent product works and looks great thank you very much nice crisp white light steady glow unified look
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Piaa Review
One of the best bulbs I have ever bought, the bulb emits a bluish tint and really makes my car look nice. I use these bulbs for my side markers and to light my vanity license plates, it really adds a finishing touch to the look of the car.
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Questions & Answers
Question : Should I remove an amp and am i damaging any electrical components of my car?
I just got a sound system set up in my stock civic. I got 4 alpine speakers that are suppose to be 80 watts rms and 2 12'' subs that says 1000 watts. Im not sure if its peak or rms. The alpine speakers are attatched to a 4 channel powerbank amp that says 1000 watts max and the subwoofers are attatched to a 2 channel powerbank amp that also says 1000 watts. The people that set it up for me said that I should be good if i keep my engine on and to not leave the system on for over 30 mins when the engine is off. I am just wondering if i should remove the subwoofers and the amps for the subs since i think they quality of the alpines are more than suffiecient for my needs. Please help me out!!! I dont want to be damaging my car and not know it. PS. I have not been dimming and all my components like ac, lights work normal. Thanks in advance.
Answer:
Depends on what you want....If you remove that amp, and it WAS powering the 4 alpine speakers....80watt RMS....your stereo, even most aftermarkets only put out around 40-50watts x 4....if it's aftermarket...stock...all depends on what it is...could be 25x4 etc...Sooo.....what you can try to do is disconnect your subs to see what the alpines sound like just by itself....IF you think then that it is enough you could just do away with the subs...and let the amp run the 4 speakers. You could always take it back to the guys who installed it for you, they could probably hook the 4 alpine speakers 1 speaker per channel...you have a 4 channel 1000watt amp....that way you would have Stereo (left and right...) as well as Fading front and rear....
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Question : What to check on a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado for electrical?
I am having to jump start my truck to go places. I bought a battery last week because I have no Idea on how old the battery was. Where should I look to see what is causing my battery to go dead? The alternator light hasn't come on, the amp meter on the dash seems to slightly fluctuate, but stays on 14 Volts. I need suggestions on where to look? If I try to start it the lights on my instrument cluster tends to flash.
Answer:
did you check the battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight? also it might be the ground cable.that, s what was wrong with my car, the ground cable was,nt contacting the side terminal on the battery.
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Question : can I branch a 15 amp circuit with 14AWG connected to 2 lights to a 20 amp circuit with 12 AWG?
how do i do this to meet electrical code?
Answer:
You want to attach some 12 AWG wire to an existing 15 amp 14 AWG wire circuit? That is no problem as long as you leave the overcurrent protection at 15 amps. And that is just fine with the electric code.Want to attach some 14 AWG wire to an existing 20 amp 12 AWG wire circuit? Nope. Use 12 or change the overcurrent protection devise to 15 amps. Per the same electric code.
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Question : my cars electrical system is being burdoned by my sound system what should i do?
i just installed a 1200 watt sony amp in my car with 2 subs, the lights dim when the bass hits hard and im afraid im going to damage the electrical system if i let it go. my cars a 95 mustang gt. would a capacitor do the trick? does anyone know how much amperage i have and how much more i need?
Answer:
Javin M is so full of....well crap. He doesn't have the electrical background to know what a capacitor is let alone what it does. I know this because he and I have had a little chat on the matter and he has trouble backing up his claims with fact, he relies strictly on hearsay.As far as connectivity, it would be best to contact the manufacturer to do it correctly.I know a cap can be beneficial as I'm running one and I measured a definite change in my electrical systems response curve to big bass hits with an oscilloscope.If your total system power is more than 1000 watts RMS you will need to:1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator and the ground strap.Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621You'll need Microsft Excel to use it.See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
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Question : Will a 100 amp to to 200 amp increase electrical bill? Approx. cost for NJ?
Pardon my total ignorance. A lot of times lights flicker when my A/C clicks on or when hair dryer is being used in bedroom when washer & dryer & computer & lights are on in my 1100 sq. ft. home. And certain lights in the house "blow out" a lot more than others. An electrical plug/light combo in the basement blew out and now the light doesn't work. The house was built in 1997, so it is not that old.. 1. If I have to upgrade to 200 amp service, will my monthly electrical bill be higher because of the upgrade?2. Also, about how much (in central New Jersey) would it it cost (approx) to upgrade from 100 to 200 amp service? What size wire would good electrical contractor use?
Answer:
You probably just need your wiring checked. Sounds like a loose neutral connection, or something. Improving the incoming service probably won't help. Going to a 200 amp box will have no affect on your monthly usage. You probably never come close to 100 amps (that's over 20,000 watts of potential power). Best thing would be to have all the wiring between the circuit panel and the outlets checked. All it takes is a burnt wire or loose/weak connection to cause the symptoms you describe. I don't recommend you do this, but I went and tightened all the pinch screws on all the wires in my panel and replaced all my sockets with the kind that screw the wire in place. The newer, more convenient push in terminals are junk.
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Question : Sears Lawnmower just stopped...no electrical, see description?
I was mowing grass with a 15HP Sears Model CV15S Lawn Tractor at normal full rpm...and then it just died. It has not started ever since. There is not even any power at the amp light on the dash when I turn the key...just nothing! The battery is good and the fuel system is good. It has got to be electrical, but I don't know what. Fuse? Starter switch? Operator presence switch? Has anyone had this problem before?
Answer:
Could be any of those things, and a number of others. Trying things at random is a waste of time. You have get out your voltmeter and start tracking down the problem. If you have a wiring diagram, it will make life a lot easier, but you can accomplish a lot without it. Start at the ignition switch. Does the voltage come in? Does it show up on the output when the switch is engaged? From there, follow the wire forward or backward to the next measurement point.It can be a real pain without the wiring diagram. But sometimes you get lucky and find the problem quickly. If it were me, I'd invest an hour in trouble shooting before springing for the cost of a manual.Good luck.
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Question : How to connect a 2 channel amp to a computer?
hi i have a question i have a 2 channel amp siting at home with subwoffers i was wondering if i could hook this up on my computer and if i can, how should i give the car amp power? i was thinkin of taking a cell phone charger shaving the wire from the front and attaching it to the amp then from there i have a cigarette light transformer which converts from cigarette outlet to electrical outlet im wondering if this is possible?
Answer:
No the phone charger probably isn't 12v output they usually only around 3 volts. It also will not be able to carry the load the amp would need. You best bet is to buy AC DC converter. Many car audio shops have them for testing equipment without having to put it in a car.Car amps are best suited for a cars. I know it's just sitting around but if your wanting to build an audio system for you computer selling the amp and buying home audio equipment will give the best results.
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Question : How many can lights can I put on a 15 amp circuit in MN?
HI I need to know if anyone knows the MN electrical code for how many can lights I am allowed on one circuit using 14-2 with 15amp. also I would like to put some in my soffit outside, any type of can required for this? Thanks.
Answer:
Just keep the total load less than 80% of the circuit and you should be fine, even Dave Jacobson would not have a problem with that, he is a fun inspector to deal with, if you are borderline will depend on the inspector, if you are over it will not fly. In the 2008 code there is this nice little deal about all electrical equipment installed outdoors, has to be rated either for damp, or wet locations, even gfci outlets in an in use cover, and in a house have to be of the "tamper resistant type" . If you watch those things, even good old Dave won't have a problem with it, but I bet he still looks at every breaker in your panel, the label I mean... Good luck..
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Question : Does Florida Electrical Code allow for 20 amp Circuit to be used for lighting and wall outlets?
I have completely gutted a home I own and am redoing the electric. I have pull permits, but the inspectors frown on homeowners doing their own electrical in my area, so they don't offer any advice when I have questions. I am looking for some guidelines on installing lighting on the same circuit as my wall plugs for a 20 amp circuit. Is this advisable? If so, is there any restriction as to the type of lighting that can be run on this circuit? (Someone told me that light bulbs would burn out quickly if I use a 20 amp circuit for them)
Answer:
If you don't have some knowledge of the NEC, this will be the least of your problems. If you are going to do this yourself, you need to understand the code rules.Some other answers are wrong. You can have 15A outlets on a 20A circuit (unless it is a single outlet on an individual branch circuit). You can mix lights and outlets on a circuit, if it is a general purpose circuit. There are special 20A circuits required for small appliances, bath, and laundry, which cannot have lights (bath can if the circuit feeds only one bathroom). That said, my recommendation is only 15A circuits for lights. It is easier to work with 14AWG in fixtures that never have enough room and the fixture wire is better protected with a smaller breaker.
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Question : Electrical work in finishing basement?
I'm finishing my basement and will have about 17 outlets. I plan to run 12 AWG and use 20 amp breakers. Are 2 circuits the way to go? The room is about 450 SF and there will be lighting as well.
Answer:
Per the National Electrical Code, each duplex outlet should be calculated at 1800 watts (or 1.5 amps at 120 volts). Since a 20 amp circuit should be derated to carry a sustained load of not more than 16 amps, you can put 10 outlets per 20 amp circuit so 2 circuits would be OK if you only have 3 or 4 light fixtures in addition. If you have more lighting (say, track or recessed down-lighting with multiple lamps) you might need a third circuit. Also, if you are going to have any appliance like a refrigerator, dehumidifier or microwave connected, each should have its own dedicated circuit. If you've got a computer connection, that would also be best served by a dedicated outlet or at least one that is not on the same circuit with any motor loads.
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