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Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger
Price : $39.95 $15.90
Features
: - Spark proof during lead connection, reverse polarity protected and includes a 12-foot output cord and 5-year warranty
- Perfect for charging all 12-volt lead-acid, flooded or sealed maintenance free batteries (AGM and gel cell)
- Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Float Mode) allows for optimization of battery power, without overcharging
- Automatic charge cycle functionality switches to float mode after fully charging the battery
- Solid state two color LED indicates stage of charger
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Customer Review :
Keeps my motorcycle alive and well!
LOVE this thing! I no longer have to worry if my motorcycle will start or not.
I permanently attached the leads on my battery so the small connector is tucked in my front grill. When I park my bike, I just plug the connector to the Battery Tender and it's all set. Takes me about 5 seconds. No problema!
Totally worth it.
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THE BEST CHARGER/TENDER EVER!
I purchased a tender for my bike and liked it so well I bought two more. One for my brother-in-law and one for my sweetheart. The easy connect to the battery was wonderful, plus the quick clip for disconnecting from the charger is even better. It's a quality built item and I'm sure I'll have years of great service from it. I'm really looking forward to giving the Tenders and watching the faces when they see how easy it is to install. My brother-in-law's battery is located under his seat, so he has to take the seat off and the battery out to recharge. So he'll really appreciate the easy connect and quick clip. I would definately recommend this item to anyone.
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LOVE IT
This is a great product. I bought two, one for my brothers 2009 BMW R1200RT and one for my 2009 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. I installed the harness on both bikes in just a few moments; it tucks neatly away under the frame. The quick connect is easy to close off with the include cap and easy to open back up. The leads are long enough and it charges well. I like the lights on the front that give me an instant view of the battery condition. Price is right too at about $24. I highly recommend this unit for anyone with a motorcycle.
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Own Seven
I personally own seven and very satisfied. They are easy to use on any battery, snowmobile, 4 wheeler, car ect. and the best part is they do not over charge the battery.
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Very nice product
This product has done everything it claims to do. My battery had gone dead over the colder winter months. This tender brought the battery back to charged level and is maintaining it until I can purchase a new battery.
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Battery Tender 021-0128 Battery Tender Plus 12V Battery Charger
Price : $67.95 $39.95
Features
: - Solid state two color LED indicates stage of charger; a quick connect harness for use in hard to reach areas
- Perfect for all lead-acid, flooded or sealed maintenance free batteries (AGM and gel cell)
- Complete 4-step charging program (initialization, bulk charge, absorption mode and float mode) that maintains batteries at full charge without overcharging via its 4-step charging system
- Automatically switches to float/maintenance mode voltage after fully charging the battery
- Temperature compensated to ensure optimum charge voltage according to ambient temperature, and spark proof and reverse polarity protected; 10-year limited warranty
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Customer Review :
Does the job!
Easy to use, easy to set up. The little green light indicates it's happy, too. There's no way to know, of course, whether it made a difference since the alternative was to disconnect my '96 BMW M3's battery. Don't bother with the cover. As noted elsewhere, the package it comes in is suitable for storage.
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Just Bought My Second One
I bought my first Battery Tender for a BMW M3 that I drive infrequently because of travel. The car uses a lot of power even when turned off and idle. After having to replace a dead battery my dealer suggested that I purchase a charger to keep my battery in good shape. I believe BMW sells this unit under their logo, but I bought it from Amazon for much less $$$.
Problem solved! Even after a one month long business trip my car started immediately. Seeing that green light on the Battery Tender gives me peace of mind that my car will start when I need it and my battery will stay in good shape.
When my wife's Honda S2000 would not start after sitting in the garage for a few months, I thought I would try my Battery Tender before calling AAA. After an overnight charge the car started right up. After an additional 24 hours the green light was constant telling me the battery charger was in maintenance mode. My wife asked me to buy one for her.
One Note: find out if your car can charge via the cigarette lighter. This seems to be the most convenient method. BMW 3 series prior to 2007 can charge this way but newer models cannot. The Honda 2004 S2000 cannot charge via the auxilliary socket between the seats, so I installed the terminal set directly to the battery.
This device works, is solidly built, and is a good investment.
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Battery Tender
Product worked just as expected! Fast shipping, no problems. BEST price on the net! Everything needed in one package!
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Deltran Battery Tender Plus fills the bill
I have a garaged car that only gets driven a couple of times of month at a weekend home. After about the 5th time of jump-starting a dead battery, a friendly neighbor/garage enthusiast informed me about "battery tenders." After reading the reviews here, I pulled the trigger on the Deltran Tender Plus, and am very happy. I hooked up the ring terminal harness in about 2 minutes and started the charge at around 8PM. Red light stayed on overnight, and by morning the green light was flashing and the red light was off, indicating an 80% charge. Getting to the steady green light with red light off(full charge and trickle maintenance) took another 6 hours or so.
Using this could not be easier, and it is tailor made for someone like me: garaged car over winter with sporadic use and night time temperatures in the 20s and 30s. My only quibble is that the ring terminal harness cord could be about 2 feet longer (it's only 1.5 feet) to allow the charge cord to be snaked through the car's front grill and capped when not in use. I did not use the included alligator clamp harness and will keep it as a backup. Because I have a power outlet in the front of my garage bay, I needed no other extensions on the power cord, or on the charging cord. I would guess that the fully extended outlet cord plus the DC charging cord, plus the DC ring terminal harness, extends about 12 feet total, so that should give you an idea of whether you will need any extensions (either power cord or DC cord) to reach your battery. I briefly considered buying the separate cigarette lighter adapter to charge, but because the lighter on my car is not "hot" when the car is off, it could not work.
For all of the technical reasons previously reviewed, I feel confident that the battery tender will now maintain a float on my lightly used car battery and there will be no more jumper cables in my future!
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Must have if you own a classic car
All I can say is that it works great and I love the adapter that allows you to charge your battery without opening the hood each time. I use this on my 67 Caddy which I don't get to drive at all 6 months out of the year.
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Battery Tender 081-0148-25 25' Quick Disconnect Extension Cable
Price : $11.95 $11.95
Features
: - 25 feet of DC extension cord
- Plugs into all Deltran Battery Tenders
- Allows access to Battery Tender from 30 feet from the battery
- Perfect for use with the multi-bank chargers
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Editorial Review :
Battery Tender 25' Quick Disconnect Extension Cable is used to extend the length of the reach of the charger from input to battery. It can be used with the Battery Tender Junior, Plus, 4, 5, or 10 bank units.
Customer Review :
Battery Tenders
Battery tenders a a must for car collectors, auto enthusiasts, motor cycle lovers and really any form of transportation that requires a rechargeable battery. This product is especially useful when some vehicles are dormant for several seasons or are seldom used.
Auto batteries are expensive and the battert tender will significantly extend the life of batteries that are used only part of the time.
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TO extend the reach of the trickle charger (Motorcycle - Lawn Mower)
I have a few pieces of equipment that often sit for month in the garage. So over the years I found it cheaper / easier to top off the batteries every month or so in the winter. As some equipment can take a few minutes to connect the trickle charger .. I got these to help make the job easier.
Would Buy Again. Good Price and Good Quality
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Love it
This gives me the option of moving my motorcycle away from the electrical outlets and not having to run extension cords. Nicely made. Glad I bought it.
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It's a cable.
This Battery Tender quick disconnect cable does exactly what it promises to do - connects the battery tender unit to my cars battery, up to 25 additional feet away.
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Battery Tender Extention
Like the product because it allows me to reach my bikes without using an extention cord.
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Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug
Price : $7.95 $5.47
Features
: - 18" cord adaptor
- Plugs into all Deltran Battery Tenders
- Convenient for hard-to-access batteries
- Adaptor plug is compatible with most heated suits for motorcycles or snowmobiles
- Both Alligator Clips and Ring-Terminals come with each Battery Tender
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Editorial Review :
Battery Tender Ring Terminal Harness is an accessory for use with multiple batteries. It is equipped with a black Quick Disconnect plug and is suitable for use with 12 volt models only. This ring terminal harness includes a 3-amp fuse and is 2 feet in length.
Customer Review :
Battery Tender Ring Terminal Harness
The Battery Tender Ring Terminal Harness is very handy for charging a battery that is not easily accessible. It allows you to install the ring terminal harness on the battery terminals once, and then just plug the extension cable into it when needing to charge or maintain the battery.
The length of the harness cable to the quick-disconnect feature is adequate for easy access when needing to plug into the battery charger without having to disassemble anything on the vehicle once it is installed. The dust cover provides protection to the quick-disconnect terminals and it keeps them from getting dirty, or wet when you are riding, driving, or boating.
The Ring Terminal Harness is a very handy item for being able to quickly connect or disconnect the battery charger.
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Good for easy charging of lawn tractor and motorcycle
I have a few pieces of equipment that often sit for month in the garage. So over the years I found it cheaper / easier to top off the batteries every month or so in the winter. As some equipment can take a few minutes to connect the trickle charger .. I got these to help make the job easier.
Would Buy Again. Good Price and Good Quality
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Battery tender
If your tired of replacing your expensive ATV, motorcycle, or snowmobile batteries, this is the item for you. Plug 'em in and forget it. Maintains your batteries at full charge without overcharging. Extends battery life and, with the 2-pin quick disconnect, it takes 5 seconds to connect or disconnect. I have three battery tenders and alternate between three snowmobiles, three ATVs, and a garden tractor. They're a bargain online and way cheaper than replacing batteries.
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Great product
Great product. I store my 2006 Dodge Viper during the Winter months and I have lost batteries in the past from constantly re-charging them. This product keeps the battery at a full charge without overcharging.
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Great Accessory
I now have three of these adapters. One on my track car, one on my trailer winch battery, and one on my tractor and they all work grest.
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Battery Tender 022-0150-DL-WH Waterproof 800 12V Battery Charger
Price : $52.50 $36.95
Features
: - Spark proof and reverse polarity protected; protected by a 3-year limited warranty
- Designed for use on all AGM sealed maintenance free, lead calcium, and flooded batteries
- 100% waterproof and ultraportable at a size not bigger than a computer mouse
- Complete 3-step charging program (initialization, bulk charge, and float mode) for maintaining optimal performance levels without over charging
- Automatically switches to float/maintenance voltage after fully charging the battery
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Customer Review :
Works great on the boat
I have two boat batteries with a combiner and a switch and use the battery tender to keep them both charged. So far it has worked as advertised and I would certainly buy it again or recommend it to a friend.
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Permanent mount charger
Great charger when permanently mounted under the hood. I brought the plug out the grill and plug it in whenever the car is in the garage. Keeping a trickle charger connected will insure longest battery life.
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Pretty good so far
I've only had this for about four months (I only rated it four stars because I don't know the long term quality). So far it works very well. There are other reviews that describe the unit. Please note it is only a two amp trickle charger and will not keep batteries that have serious drain.
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Perfect for long-term battery maintenance. Must-have equipment for motorcycles.
As its name implies, this charger is designed for long-term maintenance charging, rather than recharging a dead battery in a few hours. Widely accepted as standard equipment for motorcycles that spend time sitting in the garage during cold winter months. Tops off the battery automatically and keeps it healthy. It's also worth getting just to have the adapter permanently mounted on the bike, as there are so many accessories made to work off battery power by plugging in to the battery tender adapter (for example, Slime's "Power Sport Tire Inflator," which is a great portable air compressor you can use anywhere with the battery tender adapter. Slime 40001 Power Sport Tire Inflator). The waterproof model is worth getting if you're going to leave it out to charge all the time (as recommended) to protect against moisture or any exposure to bad weather. I've used it to charge a dead car battery, too, and it worked but took about 18 hours.
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Great product
Solid, works well, could not not ask for more in a battery tender. A must have item if you don't drive your car regularly. Cheers.
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Questions & Answers
Question : How come my 12 inch subwoofer wont work?
so we routed all the wires we need from the battery to the amp to the sub, etc. spliced the audio from the amp to radio into the rear speakers in my car and we spliced the power to the amp from the radio with the correct wire there that is hot while acc is on, and we had hooked up the subwoofer to L+ and R- for the mono sub and after we tested it out, we got a repetive constant beat (motorboat effect [which can be caused by a wire to the sub from the amp being grounded somewhere else maybe, but we checked and nothing is being grounded accidentally..]) that went even when the radio was off (with accessories on). but when we had put them both on L+ & - or R+ & -, it would work fine, but with the bass on the amp all the way up and the bass on the radio all the way up, it just moved without making any vibration, but it was following the beat for sure. Is there something we missed?
Answer:
a bad ground on your amplifier can cause the constant beat you are describing.
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Question : Did I blow a fuse, or is my battery dead?
I have subwoofers and a 1000 w amp. To sum it up, I know nothing about electrical stuff. Well earlier, I accidentally touched metal wrench to this wire on amp and it made sparks (yay). I turned accessories on and everything worked. I later then went to turn car on, but when i turned to start, it clicked and everything went off. I mean absolutely nothing works. Is this fuse or battery?
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I have subwoofers and a 1000 w amp. To sum it up, I know nothing about electrical stuff. Well earlier, I accidentally touched metal wrench to this wire on amp and it made sparks (yay). I turned accessories on and everything worked. I later then went to turn car on, but when i turned to start, it clicked and everything went off. I mean absolutely nothing works. Is this fuse or battery?
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Question : battery question on s197 (05-09 mustang gt)?
how much voltage comes directly from the battery? is it a conventional 12v? enough for a remote turn on lead for an aftermarket amplifier? im running a + switched line from the battery to the amp with the blue wire. and everyone keeps giving me the same answer, "why not run it to an accessory wire inside the car?" which i refuse to do. there are so many wires and i have no clue which one is an accessory wire, thus all i need to know is will it turn the amp on from the battery? not the red + wire, not the black - wire, the blue one that turns the amp on. its a stock system. this is starting to anger me severely. couldve had this done a week ago if someone gave a direct answer to my question.
Answer:
If you run the blue amp wire directly to the battery the amp will stay on all of the time. Depending on the amp, this may be a severe drain on the vehicle battery. The people who say you should find an accessory circuit are correct. You only want the amp to come on when you have the ignition key on. I would not run the blue amp wire directly to the battery, I would find a circuit that only has voltage with the ignition key on, to save your battery voltage, and only turn on the amp when the key is on.
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Question : 87 integra blowing wiper fuse?
as soon as u turn the ignition to the accessories position the fuse blows. the wiper takes a 25 amp fuse and it also blew a 25 amp. it started a couple of days ago. is there a possibility that the motor is grounding? of course there should be if the fuses are going out like that but where should i begin.with the harness plugged in @ the motor there is power but when i unplug the harness and test light it from the battery there is nothing. Am i testing it wrong.the funny thing is that when the car is running and i put the fuse in it works just fine untill you turn the car off and then restart it then it blows the fuse any suggestions or remedies would be appreaciated..
Answer:
sounds like you have a crosswire. usually with the stereo unit. Although i would go to a sparky or autoelectrician as it could get worse even a fire.
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Question : ignition fuse keeps blowing?
I have a 1992 AWD Turbo eagle talon and It first started haveing a tough time getting started, I would have to give it gas to get it to start then it would run fine. Then today i leave my house and the car just shuts off. I tried to start it, nothing. I looked under the hood and the 30 Amp ignition/fuel pump/accessories fuse was blown. When I replace it everything works I turn the car over and it cranks but as soon as I turn the key off from cranking the fuse blows. It will let me crank as long as I want but as soon as I stop the fuse pops. Each time I replace it it will crank and all the accessories are on then pop. I checked my battery terminals and they along with all the wires look fine. Any ideas?The battery terminals and the wires are only a month old, there is no corrosion anywhere. I also used a multi meter on the battery with the fuse in and there is no voltage draw. I also pulled the blowing fuse and used the multimeter on the positive and ground that it plugs into and it shows perfect voltage. Is it possibly the fuel pump? Maybe the sending unit? I have a walbro 190 and in the AWD model you usually cant here it now its making a high pitch whirring.If its a starter short why will it crank as long as I have it turned over and only blow when I stop giving it voltage? I would think putting all that voltage to it would pop it but it will crank like a champ and the fuse doesnt get hot until you stop then pop!
Answer:
The symptoms you describe seems to point to a short in the DIS (distributorless ignition system), either the DIS module circuit or coil pack circuit. You say the fuse is a 30 Amp "ignition/fuel pump/accessories" fuse and you say that when you replace the fuse the starter will crank but then when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON (run) position the fuse will blow. The circuit then which is blowing the fuse is one which is not energized when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position, otherwise it would blow instantly. So that eliminates the fuel pump and accessories circuits which are protected by the fuse because the fuel pump and accessories are energized instantly when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position. But the ignition circuit is not. The distributorless electronic ignition and coils are energized by the ASD relay (auto shut down relay) but not until the PCM (powertrain control module) receives a crank signal from the CPS (crankshaft position sensor).A simple test would be to unplug the ASD relay and then replace the blown fuse and crank the engine. The ASD relay on your 1992 Eagle Talon should be the middle relay of the three relays by the master cylinder. If while the ASD relay is unplugged the fuse does not blow when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON position then I would recommend that you check for a short in distributorless electronic ignition module lead and connector or a short in the leads and connectors to the coils. Also check the coils and electronic ignition module for any obvious signs of overheating which an internal short might cause, such as a spot which is blistered.
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Question : 12v Car Battery Setup?
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers
Answer:
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers
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Question : How Long Does It Last For?
I have a amp 560watts with a sub and w 2x9 speakers and a cd player connected and turns on when switched to accessories. how long would it last for until the battery decides not to start the car ??
Answer:
impossible to answer. It all depends on the current that the car uses in accessory mode. The volume that your listening to your system at. The amperage draw of the amp at that level. Also the capacity of the battery.
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Question : My subs won't play, everything is new and hooked up right. Can you help?
I just purchased everything I will need to put a system in my 1987 e30 bmw. System includes:-Two 12" JL subs-Monster cables 8 gauge-600watt Visonik (4 channel V304xt) amp( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.... )-Jenson MP6212A friend of mine helped me with the installation. Here's what I have done:1.) RCA cables hooked in the rca slot on the back of the head unit as well as the amp.2.) The REM wire is hooked up to the amp. It is also connected to the 2 red accessory wires coming from head unit and the car.3.) The subs are wired to the speaker wire inputs on the amp.4.) The ground wire is connected to the negative terminal on the battery (I did this because I couldn't find a ground spots in the trunk. Plus the thick 6" brown wire coming from the negative terminal is directly connected to a bolt in the chassis.5.) Amp 12v wire hooked up (w/ fuse) to positive terminal on battery (battery is in the trunk). Also hooked up to the 12v input on the amp.After hooking it up, it worked for only a few minutes, then stopped. No fuses looked blown, but I replaced them all. I checked all the connections and re-connected all the wires. Tried 3 different RCA cables. When I turn the car on now, only the red logo light comes on on top of the amp. When it was working fine, the white power light came on as well. The head unit works fine, the battery, cables, and amp is new. Could part of the amp be fried? The REM and 12v are working fine, but the amp seems to be getting no audio signal from the headunit.
Answer:
I think BMWs and their rear batteries are really bad for the electrical...IIRC.Your REM should be connected to the REM of the head unit, not the accesory 12v.Maybe you fried your amp by turning the gain too high. Visonik is crap, so it's not really reliable. If you have this option, get another amp and hook it up exactly how you have this set up and see if it works. If it doesnt, then its the wiring. If it does, then ur visonik is dead. Another thing you can try is using the amp in a car that you already know it works. See if it works in that car (replace one amp already installed).
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Question : When the bass kicks in my headlights dim...how do i solve this?
Obviously my subs are making my amp take too much power away from the other accessories in my car (headlights) but do i need a separate battery or a stronger alternator or whatThe two 8" subs and two speakers and two tweeters are pullin the ampAlso, i have a capcitor. But apparently its not working, perhaps its time to get a new/better one?
Answer:
you need a stronger alternator, your battery is only used to start the car from that point on its the alternator that keeps it running and keeps the battery charged, if you add another battery all you will do is put more strain on the alternatoryou could invest in a capacitor but those don't really help much, you may also want to see if your wires are thick enough (proper gauge)
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Question : The truth about capacitors....?
A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit and even then the benefit is purely for voltage conditioning and has nothing to do with power conditioning. THEY DO NOT HELP WITH DIMMING LIGHTS.To get more current to your system, you need a high output alternator. This is the cure for dimming lights.For the record..... The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the vehicle and run the accessories with the engine off nothing else. The REAL power plant of the vehicle is the alternator.What brough this about was an answwer to this question - http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080816185107AAsYEkK&r=w#NbUvWju8VzmdRHfXRHQUThis line, "When instantaneous energy (current) is required by the amp to drive the subs, the energy is delivered from the capacitor, improving bass response and not taxing the car's electrical system." is totally bogus.ANY item that has internal resistance puts a a tax on the electrical system. Even batteries have an internal resistance. In no way does a cap "improve bass repsonse". That requires power and a cap is a voltage device, not a current device.This has been another Public Service AnnouncementA.A.S. degree in Electronics/Industrial Electronics with 25 years in the mobile audio/consumer electronics field, Peavey Media-Matrix certified audio engineer
Answer:
Yeah I know try explaining that to some of these people out here ,especially the ones who always thinks they are never wrong and they do not know what they are talking about....Try telling them for the systems they are installing it requires really big upgrades then they tell you that you are just trying to get them to spend extra when you are really trying to protect their electrical system and that a capacitor does not have the same function and/or capabilties of a alternator ......
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