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Cobra CJIC 350 1800-Watt Jumpstarter Powerpack with Air Compressor
Price : $139.95 $83.77
Features
: - 1800-Watt jump start unit with heavy duty cables transfers power more efficiently and is strong enough to start most vehicles
- 260 PSI Air Compressor and Grounded 120-Volt AC Outlet
- 12-Volt DC Output to power up and charge mobile electronic devices
- 5-Volt USB Output to power up and charge 5-Volt devices such as iPods and PDAs
- 400-Watt Emergency AC Power Adapter and Super Bright LED light
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Editorial Review :
The Cobra Jump Starter Powerpack means you'll never be stranded or without emergency power again. The Jump Start Powerpack contains a maintenance-free, high-efficiency sealed lead acid battery with 1800 Watts of power to jumpstart your vehicle without the safety and mechanical risks inherent with the old style of vehicle-to-vehicle jumper cables. The Reverse Polarity Indicator lets you know when the proper connection to the battery has been made. Then, the jump starter safety switch safely transfers power to the high-efficiency heavy-duty booster cables. The Jump Start Powerpack also comes with a convenient 12-Volt DC output and a 5-Volt USB output to power and charge mobile electronic devices such as iPods, PDAs, and DVD players when you're at the work site, on the road, or camping. Additionally, it contains a 400-Watt/110-Volt AC Outlet for operating household appliances anywhere that traditional electricity isn't available. The ultra-bright LED light can be used either at work or in an emergency, and the on-board 260 PSI air compressor is a must-have for flat tires, inflating sports equipment, or getting the air mattress set for camping. When the battery status LED lights up, simply use the included AD/DC charging jack to bring your unit back to full power and ready for the next incident.
Customer Review :
Wears out quickly, mostly useless
I purchased the unit partly to take around in the car, mostly for portable emergency power on long trips through wide open country, partly for portable convenience power when traveling by car, and partly for in-house emergency power (in case a storm knocks out the power.) It takes 24-30 hours plugged into a wall outlet to completely charge the unit from an "empty" state. (The charger is a separate power brick, so be sure to take it along if you're on a road trip and need to recharge.) At first, when not in use, it held that "full" charge for about two weeks. The auto power port (formerly known as a cigarette lighter), USB power power (good for charging an iPod or similar device), and 3-pronged 120 VAC outlet (for running just about any normal household device) all worked fine and could run various low to medium powered appliances for several hours from a full charge. The the built-in air compressor is handy for re-inflating tires that are low. Haven't actually tried the built-in jumper cables on a car with a dead battery yet. The built-in LED light is handy for using the device in the dark, but the unit's far too heavy to be used as a common flashlight.
After just two months (with no actual use beyond initial try-out), the unit can no longer hold a full charge for 24 hours when not in use. After charging for a full day, the power now tests "low" after only 12 hours of non-use, and "empty" after two days. The only way it can be used as emergency power is if it's kept continuously connected to charging power (120v wall outlet.) It's not much use packing it around in the car anymore; even if it was fully charged in the morning, by dusk it will be "low" and it won't power anything for long.
I consider this purchase a complete waste of my money.
Rating : 
Cobra cjic 350 Car / home survival tools
Eve did a wonderful reveiw so I will just add where I can see some points to help someone .
First you always get what you pay for . This is not as good for starting cars as the Jump and Carry but its great for the average person in average circumstances . For one thing the cables are very short and mine came with a newer 900 peak amp starting rating . Anyone else not have the 1800 sticker on the front ?
I also noticed mine has a 14 amp sealed lead acid battery its not a AGM like the jump and carry which is 18 amp . This one has a small reserve battery too
One of the most important features of this unit is you can leave it plugged in and it has overcharge protection in it's power cord . Thats a deal maker .
The air pump isnt a Viair 70p it takes 5-10 minutes to top of a tire , vibrates with moving parts , very loud , but it works and would help you fix a flat on the car if you have a tire plug kit and a pair of pliars to take out a nail or screw from tread
There is room in the back where the hose for the tire pump is to put the charger / a plug kit / the two inflator nozzles and I can see where the door might not always remain closed in time so also a small roll of tape to tape it shut .
The set up is very nice and well thought out . I had thought it was a larger battery and hoped it was more advanced but this is good . Its old tech and thus thats why the reasonable price . I will add on later on wear tear and how it works . However I figure I pretty much know . If it runs my laptop for 4 hours between charges I will be happy .
I was suprised this unit does not come with a DC charging cord . I thought if you bought a line with two male ends on your own it would charge that way but there were no references to this . I did see a reference to using DC and found my old chargers one worked but no other info on where to buy one from Cobra . I was dissapointed but not a deal break for me I just have to share the one I have between two units now . I also have a generator for campling / power outages so whenever I run it I will also charge the this up its a niche tool so you not have to use jumpers or a generator for small things . Very nice unit for personal all around use . If you want to jump dead cars more then have a storm / car utillity tool buy the Jump and Carry where you can replace the batteries too and get a lifetime warranty for battery replacement onetime . This one ..when the battery dies or sulfates so the charge time is less and less you just toss in the trash .
I would recomend it to everyone ..it should be in every car and thus home when you are for when the power goes out . I am disabled and wouldnt think of not having one . I run a 12 volt fan when camping/ power outages with it and the light is nice too .Perfect for filling bike / lawnmore tires over getting out the compressor.
However for people really into starting cars and filling large tires and infatables buy the 660 jump and carry with a Viair portable `12 volt pump .. it may cost more but you will be amazed its 4 times the power and air volume . Instead of 40 minutes with rest periods to do the tires you will fill them in 10 . Current cost though would be about $100 more then this set up . This is perfect for a passanger vehicle in all but the worst weather with a weak battery or if you use larger 32 inch tires . Take care .
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Best one I have ever owned!
My family and I take these out for camping and I finally decided to purchase this one. Of all the ones we have when camping mine is by the far the best one. I have no regrets buying this.
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Full Featured
The jumpstarter has all the features that I was looking for. I have not jumped a car yet but expect that I will have no difficulty. The package was missing the air nozzles but cobra sent these to me when I told them I was missing them. Very good customer service so far.
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No longer available?
I ordered this item and was told they were out of stock but I would be notified when they get more. Then I get an email from Amazon telling me the item is no longer available and my order is cancelled. Well, here it is, still available at a higher price.
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Coleman Cable 08660 4-Gauge Heavy-Duty Truck/Auto Battery Jumper Cables with Polar Glow Clamps, 20-Foot
Price : $55.82 $34.99
Features
: - Fits top and side post batteries
- Ergonomically designed handles
- Engineered for warm and cold climates
- (Polar-Glo) Polarity labels glow in the dark
- Made in America
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Editorial Review :
Extra Heavy Duty 4 gauge booster cables are suitable for starting all passenger vehicles and light trucks. 250 percent more power than 10 Gauge cables. The UL listing insures that these cables meet or exceed Underwriter Laboratory's strict manufacturing and safety standards. The 20 foot length allows passenger vehicles to be parked front to back. Polar-Glo clamps glow in the dark to insure correct connection to battery terminals. Complete jump starting instructions printed on the carton. Made in the USA. Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Customer Review :
Nice Heavy Duty Jumper Cables
Normally you don't need jumper cables, but when you do you need a good set that are long. These are heavy duty, long and very durable. I bought these to go in my pickup truck.
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Good Jumper Cables for the money, But.....
For the price and in the right situations these are good cables. Good length, good ga. wire and copper connectors. But for me where they fall short is at the clamps and this type of clamp seems to be on MANY cables available today. I could not see it in the photos but the clamps are uneven at the ends because of the extra notch the manufacturer adds on one side to make it easier to connect to side terminal batteries. Also there are NO teeth on the end of the jaws so you HAVE to make your connection using the teeth on the sides of the jaws. This does not sound like a big deal until you are in a tight situation and have to clamp onto a top post battery straight down, then you have an uneven clamp end and no teeth to grip the post. I happen to also have a car (a domestic) with a remote mounted battery, not a HOT ROD or modified car, just a stock factory production car where the manufacturer could not fit the battery under the hood for space saving and design reasons and put it elsewhere in the car. Remote batteries used to be a rare thing on mostly European cars but it is fairly common now on all makes of cars. With the battery not under the hood or in the trunk I have a Pos. and Neg. lug under the hood at the end of battery cables to jump the car with. The Pos. lug is surrounded by plastic in a depression to prevent anything from accidentally hitting it and shorting. Because of this there is little room and I can not get the side of these jumper cable clamps to grab the lug, I need teeth on the end of the jaws to grip the Pos. lug. I'm returning these cables and for $15 more (on sale) than the price of these cables I got the same length, the same 4 ga. wire, clamps with teeth on all 3 sides, even jaw ends, a side terminal connection in the jaws, and they came with a hard plastic storage case, safety glasses and gloves. After shopping around for a week I found this is a great deal. I shopped all over the Net and in my local stores comparing prices wire length, size, and end clamps. There are many great items for great prices at Amazon but if you need what I need in a jumper cable go to your local SEARS.
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Good Price/Quality compromise.
I finally bought one after reading all the reviews, the product is good for moderate use not for professionals I believe, it claims to have a 4 gauge cable (flexible weldering style) it looks a little bit less than that to me but can't prove it with facts, clamps could be better they all have a different tension feel when you squeeze them (bit annoying) it comes inside a heavy duty carton with handles for storage and it's very compact for a 16 footer. Conclusion, a GOOD cosumer quality product if you are not looking and wiling to pay for the very best. I'm satisfied.
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Good sturdy and reliable!
What more do you need in a set of jumper cables? I had a car safety kit and need to give a friend a jump so I pulled out the cables and hooked them up. After 10 minutes of waiting his car still did not start. I left the cable attached to my car and touched the other two together and nothing happened. I ended up having to tear each handle apart, strip each conductor end, and reattach to get the cables to work. Even after that the cable were extremely hot after using them. With this set I will not have to worry about any of that.
If you think your cheap, thin gauge jumper cables are going to do the trick, think again. Without a set like these you are likely to end up stranded or start a fire.
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Very well-built
These jumper cables are quite big and heavy because of their gauge. That makes it a little difficult to keep your trunk organized. However, they are very durable and feel very well built. I don't think the cable will become detached from the clamps - they fastened pretty well.
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Duracell DPP-600HD Powerpack 600 Jump Starter & Emergency Power Source with Radio
Price : $189.99 $299.99
Features
: - Contains three three-pronged AC outlets (480-watt continuous / 600-watt peak) to power multiple devices, appliances and tools
- Contains one DC outlet which can be used to both power devices and recharge the HD600 unit
- Built-in 600-watt power inverter, 5-watt flashlight, overload/over-temperature protection and reverse polarity detection
- Sealed, non-spillable 28 amp hour AGM battery and detachable alligator clamps for jump-starting cars (up to 8-cylinder); refer to users' manual for charging instructions
- Built-in AM/FM radio and digital alarm clock
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Customer Review :
Works Great - better than expected.
Just used this for the first time on the 4th of July and it lasted all day. 10am to 11pm. We went to the beach and of course wanted music. This powered the ipod and speakers for 13 hours. We were thrilled; thought it would give out long before we were ready to leave. It also charged 2-4 phones during the day, maybe more I lost track. I'm a 5'4 female and I can easily carry this. It charges fully in about 4 hours. I highly recommend this.
Rating :     
Great idea, but it failed on me and is fairly limited
I purchased this powerpack in spite of the bad reviews. I thought (I hoped) I'd be one of the lucky ones and the product would work for me. I used it twice before it would no longer charge. From AC, it fully charged after about 20 hours. The first thing I noticed was that the three AC outlets are too close and/or are oriented in such a way that no more than one item can be charged at a time. This is because many plugs are not simple, small and 2 or 3 pronged - they are instead adaptor-like and larger. There is no point to offer 3 AC outlets if you can only use one at a time. The second thing I noticed is that the 26W Brunton Flexible Solar Panel that is recommended with it is just sized way too small. It will take nearly 24 hours of full sun to fully charge this battery using a 26 watt solar panel. It can recharge a cell phone, it can light up a 13 watt CFL lamp, power up a 7" tv, run a foodsaver, a small fan, and well, that's about it. It can't run any coffeemaker that I have, it can't run any medium sized appliances. It's limited to say the least. The good news is that Amazon will quickly replace it. Why buy another one? Well, the size and portability is nice. I like that it has a DC outlet. The light and radio are just alright. Why not use LED? Radio knobs (small screws) are so small as to be ridiculous. I hope the second one is a winner and won't fail on me.
Rating :  
Doesn't work
I charged it fully but the LCD reading for the reader only shows a few dashes leaving it unreadable. The LCD for the function stays on 0 the whole time no matter what I do. I've tried plugging in various items to the AC outlets and they don't work or barely feed any juice to them rendering it useless. What a waste of money.
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Duracell 600 Powerpack
I bought the Duracell battery pack to use solely to run a 19" TV and a antenna/receiver. I need it to operate these up to two hours. So far, the unit as worked great for this purpose. The unit has a window to show the percentage it is charged, and two hours of usage used less than half of the charge. It is also OK to keep it plugged in to 110 volt AC to charge it all of the time when not in use. I gave it four out of five stars because it is too soon to know if it will hold up.Duracell DPP-600HD Powerpack 600 Jump Starter & Emergency Power Source with Radio
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Better Safe than Sorry
This Jump Starter & Emergency Power Source works amazingly well for me in the few weeks I've had it. It charges my laptop great and many other things I have as well. Also, I not only would recommend this product just for occasional use, but in preparation. I live in an area that is known for its earthquakes and I don't want to take the chance of having my car stuck somewhere miles away from civilization. Better safe than sorry and I know I can count on this when I really would need it.
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Battery Tender 500-0017 Utility Bag Pouch
Price : $6.95 $3.89
Features
: - Nylon pouch
- Zippered on three sides
- Plastic inserts for registration or liscense
- Water resistant
Average
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Editorial Review :
Battery Tender Utility Bag Pouch is a zippered utility pouch with battery tender logo. It is a nylon pouch and is zippered on three sides. This pouch has plastic inserts for registration or license. It is water resistant.
Customer Review :
title
I surely hope it is doing it's job, the light is green, so it must be.
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It's what it says it is...
I keep the accessories for my Battery Tender in this pouch. It's not fancy but it works.
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Good storage bag
I purchased the Utility Bag Pouch when I ordered a Deltran 12V battery tender. It does the job of storing the battery tender, what more can I say!
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Cheap, basically worthless!
The picture of the pouch makes it look like it is hard sided and stands on its own... it doesn't!!! In fact, the picture makes it look taller than it is! I tried putting my Tender in the pouch, its tight with just the Tender let alone with the cables, I doubt if I'll ever use it. The Tender is great, but don't buy the pouch, it sucks!!
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Love it
I had ordered extra cables for my Battery Tender and this little bag keeps them organized and lets me find them again.
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Battery Tender 022-0150-DL-WH Waterproof 800 12V Battery Charger
Price : $52.50 $32.05
Features
: - Spark proof and reverse polarity protected; protected by a 3-year limited warranty
- Designed for use on all AGM sealed maintenance free, lead calcium, and flooded batteries
- 100% waterproof and ultraportable at a size not bigger than a computer mouse
- Complete 3-step charging program (initialization, bulk charge, and float mode) for maintaining optimal performance levels without over charging
- Automatically switches to float/maintenance voltage after fully charging the battery
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Customer Review :
Exactly as advertised.
The charger arrived in a timely fashion and operates exactly as I expected. Simple and effective.
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It's ok, but...
Beware. If you need a strong trickle charger, this ain't it. It's not necessarily a problem w/ the product, it's just somewhat misleading if you're battery needs stronger amperes.
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helps keep the old car going.
there are a lot of these battery trickle/float type chargers around and most of them just seem to be copies of the battery tender products. i havent used it for a long time - less than a year, and it has helped a battery stay alive for an infrequently driven vehicle. this one is waterproof as well (i dont think i found any others that were waterproofd), but i haven't really tested that feature. i bought two of these, and they work great.
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Stay Charged UP
Works great. This is the 3rd product from Battery Tender I own. All have performed flawlessly.
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Trickle Charger
Again, I was very pleased with the service and off course with the product.
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Questions & Answers
Question : 12v Car Battery Setup?
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers
Answer:
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers
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Question : I need to hook up a 2400 watt amp to power my subs?
But I already have a lot of power coming from my car battery to power up accessory lights. Should I hook up a second car battery to the alternator and use that to power my subs? And if I do hook up a second battery will that allow me to power my subs when the cars off, and still keep my main car battery charged?
Answer:
If you already draw a lot of power for your lights and you want to hook up a 2400 watt amp, a second battery would be a good idea. And consider that the same thing charging the main battery (the alternator) would also be charging secondary battery. It's a bad idea to bump subs with your engine shut off unless you want to kill your battery(s). So before you go to buy a second battery, make sure your alternator could handle the job of powering a 100Amp+ pull of a 2400watt amp and whatever amperage your lights would pull on top of regular car functions like headlights and windshield wipers. You may need to upgrade your alternator.Whatever you do, don't get tricked into buying a capacitor, they're useless.
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Question : 87 integra blowing wiper fuse?
as soon as u turn the ignition to the accessories position the fuse blows. the wiper takes a 25 amp fuse and it also blew a 25 amp. it started a couple of days ago. is there a possibility that the motor is grounding? of course there should be if the fuses are going out like that but where should i begin.with the harness plugged in @ the motor there is power but when i unplug the harness and test light it from the battery there is nothing. Am i testing it wrong.the funny thing is that when the car is running and i put the fuse in it works just fine untill you turn the car off and then restart it then it blows the fuse any suggestions or remedies would be appreaciated..
Answer:
sounds like you have a crosswire. usually with the stereo unit. Although i would go to a sparky or autoelectrician as it could get worse even a fire.
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Question : ignition fuse keeps blowing?
I have a 1992 AWD Turbo eagle talon and It first started haveing a tough time getting started, I would have to give it gas to get it to start then it would run fine. Then today i leave my house and the car just shuts off. I tried to start it, nothing. I looked under the hood and the 30 Amp ignition/fuel pump/accessories fuse was blown. When I replace it everything works I turn the car over and it cranks but as soon as I turn the key off from cranking the fuse blows. It will let me crank as long as I want but as soon as I stop the fuse pops. Each time I replace it it will crank and all the accessories are on then pop. I checked my battery terminals and they along with all the wires look fine. Any ideas?The battery terminals and the wires are only a month old, there is no corrosion anywhere. I also used a multi meter on the battery with the fuse in and there is no voltage draw. I also pulled the blowing fuse and used the multimeter on the positive and ground that it plugs into and it shows perfect voltage. Is it possibly the fuel pump? Maybe the sending unit? I have a walbro 190 and in the AWD model you usually cant here it now its making a high pitch whirring.If its a starter short why will it crank as long as I have it turned over and only blow when I stop giving it voltage? I would think putting all that voltage to it would pop it but it will crank like a champ and the fuse doesnt get hot until you stop then pop!
Answer:
The symptoms you describe seems to point to a short in the DIS (distributorless ignition system), either the DIS module circuit or coil pack circuit. You say the fuse is a 30 Amp "ignition/fuel pump/accessories" fuse and you say that when you replace the fuse the starter will crank but then when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON (run) position the fuse will blow. The circuit then which is blowing the fuse is one which is not energized when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position, otherwise it would blow instantly. So that eliminates the fuel pump and accessories circuits which are protected by the fuse because the fuel pump and accessories are energized instantly when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position. But the ignition circuit is not. The distributorless electronic ignition and coils are energized by the ASD relay (auto shut down relay) but not until the PCM (powertrain control module) receives a crank signal from the CPS (crankshaft position sensor).A simple test would be to unplug the ASD relay and then replace the blown fuse and crank the engine. The ASD relay on your 1992 Eagle Talon should be the middle relay of the three relays by the master cylinder. If while the ASD relay is unplugged the fuse does not blow when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON position then I would recommend that you check for a short in distributorless electronic ignition module lead and connector or a short in the leads and connectors to the coils. Also check the coils and electronic ignition module for any obvious signs of overheating which an internal short might cause, such as a spot which is blistered.
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Question : What will putting a 160 or 200 Amp "AmpuMaxx""High Amp" Alternator in my car accomplish, or is 100 Amps OK?
Will it make the car run better, and almost NEVER have a Dead Battery? I also put some more wtaer in my Battery too, so there is about a half-inch space beterrn the Caps and the levels in the Cells...Or, should i just get a normal "100 Amp" Alternator for my 91 Calais? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUICK-OLDS-PONTIAC-2-5-PROF-REBUILT-ALTERNATOR-1986-91_W0QQitemZ40006 0158488QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5d25719218
Answer:
it depends on what all you have that is pulling power. normally the only time you upgrade is if you add more things that pull power...( stereo system).
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Question : battery question on s197 (05-09 mustang gt)?
how much voltage comes directly from the battery? is it a conventional 12v? enough for a remote turn on lead for an aftermarket amplifier? im running a + switched line from the battery to the amp with the blue wire. and everyone keeps giving me the same answer, "why not run it to an accessory wire inside the car?" which i refuse to do. there are so many wires and i have no clue which one is an accessory wire, thus all i need to know is will it turn the amp on from the battery? not the red + wire, not the black - wire, the blue one that turns the amp on. its a stock system. this is starting to anger me severely. couldve had this done a week ago if someone gave a direct answer to my question.
Answer:
If you run the blue amp wire directly to the battery the amp will stay on all of the time. Depending on the amp, this may be a severe drain on the vehicle battery. The people who say you should find an accessory circuit are correct. You only want the amp to come on when you have the ignition key on. I would not run the blue amp wire directly to the battery, I would find a circuit that only has voltage with the ignition key on, to save your battery voltage, and only turn on the amp when the key is on.
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Question : Anyone understand why stereo fuses keep blowing on an '01 Lexus ES300 after an amp install?
I was installing an amp/subs in an '01 ES300 last night using the factory radio with a stepdown converter. I tapped into the factory sub in the rear deck to get my low pass signal. I ran the battery cable through the firewall, and I also pulled the factory cd player out, and connected my remote wire to the GREY wire in the harness after metering it with my dmm to check and see if it's an accessory wire. Now even with disconnecting *everything* I installed, the factory cd player will not come back on. I keep trying to replace the 20amp fuse under the hood and it keeps popping. I've checked for pinched wires and can't find any as well. I pulled the glove box out to access the factory amp and when I pull the 3 harnesses off the amp, I can put the 20amp fuse in and the radio will turn out (granted no sound of course), but when I plug back in the amp harnesses, it fuse pops... sounds to me like somehow I might have blown the factory amp. Any ideas??
Answer:
there is only one reason fuses blow. that's too much current .first check the wiring for a bare metal contact (grounding) and second you might step up to a 25 or 30 amp fuse... dont make a huge leap though because you could end up frying the circuitry in the device .
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Question : Motorcycle Batteries and how they affect powering accessories?
Hi I have a bike that I am having a little problem with it powering my heated gear, the bike is rated at 432 watts at 7000 rpm and is a 3 phase 32 amp charging system, but the bike has a 10500 rpm redline and 7000 rpms at cruising is not good and around 4000 rpms feels good for cruising and on the hyway at 70 mph it is running at 4300 rpm so I do not know how many watts are being gennarated at that rpm, is there like a formaler to calcalate watts at that rpm, I have a program that you can put all the power the bike uses and with my heated jacket and gloves I have 35 watts left over. The battery is small and is rated for 200 cca and 12 amp hours, I can get a battery that has more power but do not know the benafites of the battery that puts out 250 cca and 18 amp hours, and if that would make the voltage regulator work more to keep it charged or hurt it, and only know that more amp hours would heat my gear better, so any info would help me allot. thanks Mike
Answer:
Why dont you just put a Higher Output Stator in it?Bottom Line,,,that's what's required.There's No Way around that.See if these folks have anything for Your Bike.I'd suggest contacting them about your output requirements at the rpm range you desire.See it meets your needs.They also have a rewinding service,I beleive.http://www.electrosport.com/index.htmlhttp://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.phpIf your full output rating is at 7Krpm,,,,leaving you only a CALCULATED 35W,,,I Hope You included Battery Charging in your Load Calculations.Even if so,,,You're PROBABLY running at a LOSS at 4,000rpm range.Almost Certainly.How much amperage is it Drawing at 4,000?What's the Voltage under full load at that speed?If you have a 32A system,,,the Voltage Regulator should be sufficient to handle a higher output stator reliably.If you want "cheap life insurance" for the Rect/Reg ,,Stick a 12v Computer CPU/Case Fan on the Reg's Heatsink.$5/5Minutes>>>>"50% Increase" in Life Expectancy.If this Mystery Machine of Unknown Make/Model/Year happens to have a unitized Rectifier/Regulator,,,,as most all do these days....You can Disable the Internal Rectifier and drop Heat thru the Floor by installing some cheapie Single Phase Bridge Rectifiers in each leg of the Alt's Output.Real Simple,,,basically splicing them inline.That way,,,the Internal Rectifier is precluded from having to BLOCK anything.No Load=NO HEAT.They Dont Care if they Idle and simply Pass the Pre-Rectified DC thru.The Big Benefit is,,It Removes 32AMPS of HEAT off the Regulator's Heatsink.Ya'd need 3 @ less than 10$ Each.If one fails SHORT---conducting FullWave AC,,Oh Well,,,the Internal one is redundant and the outboard one fails onto that.It automatically Resumes it's Normal Function .If one fails OPEN---conducting NOTHING...Put a Jumper wire across it until you can relace the 5~10$ Diode.Just My Opinion,,I'd rather risk a under $10 discrete component than a entire $100~150 integrated device.Makes Sense to me,anyway.But You AINT likely to smoke a 35Amp/600Volt PER PHASE Diode Bridge.I Doubt the Original Bridge has any heavier than 10A or15A Diodes.I cannot suggest anything Specific,,,because I have No Idea what bike I'm talking about.Thought about LED Replacements for Running and Tail Lights?Incandescents pull about 1~2 Amps Each.LED's will reduce that to less than 1/4 of current total.The 2~3 Amp capacity Gain dont sound like MUCH....Till you consider the difference of trying to charge Batt with Maybe 2A versus 5 or more.All the BS and Calculation and Grand Theory in the world WONT power your electrical system.What you Need to DO,,at Minimum,,,is Upgrade to a High Output Stator.It would also be Very Wise to add an Overkill-Sized, Fused power bus wire directly from the Battery to supply all your extra accessories.You can Manually Switch It,,,or use a cheap,simple Relay to correlate it's energizing with your Key Swich.Bike Harnesses seem to be invariably Marginal-Sized wire gauge,,,and almost always induce Some voltage drop even with Normal equip.*Get yourself a H.O. Stator*Get the Load OFF the Bike's original Wiring*Force Cool your Rect/Reg-Optional>Upgrade Your Rect/Reg to a HighOutput Rated one-Optional>Pre-Rectify each AC Phase to unload oem modular unit-Optional>>Use a Trio of Big Diodes,,,then into a Marine Regulator,,,Merc Outboard 40Amp one for example.They're Cheap and Tuff.-Optional>Unload the Demand a bit with a LED Swap for a small gain in capacityWhatever You do,,,,Until You Increase OUTPUT,,,You're getting Nowhere towards a Solution.Increased Output= Aftermarket Stator or Custom Rewound Stator.No Other real way to Increase Available Amperage output.Source:I was a Fan of the 60's TV Show "Green Acres" and recall the Hanie Farm :)Moral: If You want to USE More Power...You gotta HAVE More Power.Or Else Decide what to Unplug,,so You can Plug In Something ElseGood Luck with it,,hope Ya get it going good.
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Question : Installed Subwoofer/Amp and the subwoofer is smoking?
Hey guys, Just installed a system into my 2006 Acura TL.I have a MA Audio 150QS (450rms) with a Alpine M850(500rms) with 4 Gauge Amp kit.After installing it, the subwoofer started to smoke a little and I could smell a faint odor, which im guessing is the voice coil melting?So here's the deal on my install-Power Wire from Positive Battery terminal to amplifier power Port.Ground to OEM ground location Bolt in the trunk.Remote Lead to the fuse box, on accessory Fuse.Here's where I think something messed up.My car came with a stock POS subwoofer so I used to wiring from that ran it to the LOC and then to the amplifier. I got the LOC from a friend of mine and the wiring seems kind of odd. There are 4 wires coming off of the LOC and 1 wire a side go to the same wire and the other 2 are mismatched wires.On the OEM subwoofer wiring, One was a very light green wire with a red stripe and one was yellow with some colored stripe.What I think I may have done was that I may have swi
Answer:
Did you wire the Voice Coils of the sub in parallel? This would create a 2 ohm load, and boost the RMS wattage of the amp to 800 watts, way to much for that sub! Also what is the gain at on the amp? Also what colors are the wires on the output converter? and which ones did you connect to?Download Sparky's Audio-Calc it is an excel file which you will need, and a multimeter. http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621Go to gain control adjustment and follow instructions, you will need to figure for 450 watts @ 2ohms
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Question : how to connect the power wire to the battery and amp?
I have a 0 gauge power wire... what are the accessories needed to connect this to the battery n amp pls. i do not know the terms for them. like the little hook things at the end? to hookin em up easier? any advice related would be appreciated.
Answer:
The terminal connectors you will use on 0 awg wire will require a larger set of crimping pliers than most people have lying around. You will need to determine what kind of terminal will work at your battery, or you may need to change your battery terminal on the hot side to accept a typical ring terminal. And you absolutely need an in-line fuse within the hood compartment so that if the wire does get damaged and touches ground it will blow the fuse rather than start a fire or damage the amp. Make sure the fuse is rated the same or no more than 5 amps above the total ampacity of your amplifier (the total sum of all the fuses on the amp) Most amps do have screw terminals for the power wire which involves a little plate that spreads apart to allow the wire to be squeezed between under the screw. Usually you strip back about 1 inch of wire, then spread out the strands into two bundles, use a flat screw driver to create a chasm between them and shape them to fit into the space around the screw. Then cut them to length, insert and torque down with an appropriate slotted screwdriver. Make sure your ground wire from the amp to the body is the same size wire as the power feed. And make sure you use a large terminal on the wire and that it makes good contact with bare metal of the car. While making the install, don't put the inline fuse into the holder until everything is done.
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