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Battery Tender 022-0165-DL-WH 12-Volt 2-Bank Battery Management System Battery Tender 022-0165-DL-WH 12-Volt 2-Bank Battery Management System
Price : $129.95 Too low to display
Features :
  1. Solid state two color LED indicates stage of charger; spark proof and reverse polarity protected
  2. Two independent charging stations, each providing 12 volts/1.25 amps, with temperature compensation to ensure optimum charge voltage according to ambient temperature
  3. Complete 3-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Float Mode) allows for optimization of battery power, without overcharging
  4. Perfect for all AGM (absorbed glass mat), sealed maintenance free and flooded batteries
  5. 2-year limited warranty

Average Customer Rating :

Customer Review :

Works as expected, great purchase.

I have this charging my HD and my Honda CRF450X, works great. Both bikes start right up when I get on em... I was delaying buying this for no reason, but finally did. It's great. I bought the standard product and extended the leads myself. I mounted the main box on the wall and hard wired it in to power... So it's always there when I need it.

Again you can't go wrong with this device, I have only had a month, but works as advertised for sure.

Rating :



No substitute

Nothing works as well as Deltran's various Battery Tender products to keep a live battery in good health or revive a dead one. This model is particularly nice since it can charge two batteries at once, and can be wall-mounted in a way that keeps it out of the way in your garage but still lets you see the charging status lights. If you have a car that doesn't get driven very often, or if you work on old cars as a hobby, you need this. 'Nuff said.

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Keeps My Boat Alive

I bought this one for the batteries in my boat. I store my boat and in the compartment where my batteries are there is no room for an on-board charger, so I went with this Tender. Since I have been using it my batteries have been perfect.

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battery charger

So far it is great. I have 2 batteries connected basically at all times unless I am using one and it is great. Small and compact, it charges these batteries for a golf cart overnight with no problem and is a snap to use. I hope that it lasts but so far, no problems!!!

Rating :



A compact and light charger that works

I bought the Battery Tender 2-Bank Battery Management System charger to replace a very old one that is close to end of life and mostly, for the capability of:
1. charging two batteries concurrently
2. overcharging protection

I was pleased with the weight of the Battery Tender, the compact size and the simple user's interface that shows the status of the charge. It does the job effectively and the price is right. I haven't had it long enough to make statement about its reliability except that it appears to be well made. It is a plus that this charger can be used on a long list of different types of battery. Please check the manufacturer's list to make sure that it fits the intended use.

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More reviews...

Black & Decker JUS500IB 500-Amp Jump Starter with Inflator Black & Decker JUS500IB 500-Amp Jump Starter with Inflator
Price : $144.99 $89.99
Features :
  1. 500 Instant starting amps for maximum performance
  2. 120 PSI inflator for vehicle tires, sports equipment and more
  3. Low-profile design for easy storage within vehicle or garage
  4. Visual and audible reverse polarity alarms warn against improper connections to battery terminals
  5. Ultra bright area light for increased visibility in dark areas

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

The Black & Decker 500-Amp Jump Starter with Inflator provides instant starting power to get you back on the road fast. The integrated 120 PSI inflator is ideal for filling vehicle tires, sporting equipment, air mattresses, and other inflatable items. This jump starter features an innovative low-profile design for easy storage in your vehicle or garage, and it keeps you safe with visual and audible reverse polarity alarms to warn against an improper connection to the battery terminals. It also comes equipped with an ultra-bright area light for easy use at night, and the cable clamps store easily on the unit.

Customer Review :

A useful and effective portable jump starter

This review is for the Black & Decker JUS500IB 500 Amp Jump Starter with Inflator

I received this last week, plugged it in to charge the battery, and planned to leave it in the garage. I wasn't planning on writing a review until I used it, until this morning when I needed jump-start my car because "someone" left the lights on overnight. Sure enough, I put this baby to work immediately and the engine started (no surprise there).

What I was surprised about was that I needed to connect both the positive and negative to their respective terminals. At first, I connected the negative clamp to the chasis (like how I would normally jump a car), but my car would not start. I tried several places along the non-painted metal frame part and even the engine block of the dead car to no avail. As a last resort, I connected it to the bolt of the negative post (while wearing eye protection), and the car started. I know this is a no-no, but nothing else worked, and I needed to go to work. I'll troubleshoot at a later time (or most likely never). (Minus half-star)

Now, I keep it in the trunk, just in case. It has a nice compact body, so it does not take up much space. I like the light on the unit, but it is also a bit awkward to use (it points UP, rather than down), so I had to hold the unit upside down to see what I was doing. I have yet to use the inflator, so I have nothing to contribute about it. I did try it, and it seems to work. The compartment for the hose is awkward (behind a small plastic door underneath), but at least the hose is stored and not dangling around.

It does not come with an extension cord, which is required for charging. Luckily, I had one available, but it would have been nice to have come with one (even a six-footer would be nice). (Minus half star)

Overall, a very nice portable jump starter. I have a project car that constantly needs a jump, so this will come in handy. For those who do not anticipate to use it a lot, this unit may be a bit overkill, and there are other smaller and cheaper alternatives. Highly recommended. Will update in a few months.

Note to Amazon: This product comes with an "AC charger," and not an "air conditioning charger." Please make the appropriate change in the product description section.

Rating :



Useful tool - But inflator died suddenly

So far this unit has performed well. I used it to jump-start a raggedy old farm tractor, and the little box seems to have an impressive amount of cranking power (for short bursts, anyway).

I've used the inflator twice to inflate a car and a truck tire. Takes awhile to get a tire up to pressure, but's that's normal with these little compressors. For it's size, it's quite adequate as an emergency air source. Took me about 8 minutes to bring the car tire up from 25 PSI to 45 PSI (under the weight of the vehicle). Really not that bad.

The truck tire took a bit longer, as I had to stop the unit to let it cool down. B&D recommends running the inflator for no more than 10 minutes continuously. Total time to bring this nearly-flat tire up to pressure: Just under a half-hour. Again, not too shabby considering how small this thing is.

I like the layout of the controls and indicators. Clear, easy to read, easy to access. Storage for the jumper cables is OK. I'd prefer to see them stowed in a sealed compartment, but they seem pretty secure. Keep the clamps clean, and there shouldn't be any issues storing this in a car.

Storage for the inflator hose is cheesy. It's stuffed into a tiny compartment, and you have to really bend the hose in order to get it inside. The maximum length of the air hose is about 2 feet. You must set the unit very close to the tire for the hose to reach the valve. Not a problem for me so far, but keep this in mind if you need a unit with a long reach. B&D could have done better here.

A major gripe I have is that the inflator has no provision for a backup power source. Depending on how long the internal battery will remain charged in storage, you might find it lacks the juice to power the unit in an emergency. Why couldn't B&D include a 12V cigarette adaptor for this situation? For a unit that's supposed to be a piece of emergency gear, this seems like a glaring oversight. You'd better hope that the internal battery is extremely reliable - without it, the unit is useless. Could have been a five-star rating if not for that issue.

Overall, I'm pleased with this purchase. Reliability will be the ultimate test, and it's still too early to pass judgement. If it holds up season after season, and delivers the goods when really needed, I may change my rating to 5 stars. For under 100 bucks, I'd say give it a try.

UPDATE: 12 Jan 2010
The inflator died on me, with less than 4 hours total runtime. The motor was cranking away, but there was no air pressure at all. Brought it to a B&D service center, and paid $15 to have a new one shipped to my home. No hassle at all returning the unit, and the replacement is working as advertised - so far. Maybe I just got a lemon, so I'm not going to downgrade the rating at this time. Will check back at a later date.

Rating :



Jump starter with Inflator

Bought it to pump up tires and for emergencies.Black & Decker JUS500IB 500-Amp Jump Starter with Inflator

Rating :



Nice.

Nice product. Has worked well when needed. Jump started a completely dead battery and has quickly filled slow leaking tires numerous times.

Rating :



Remarkable


Bought for my husband as a gift and he takes it everywhere. Used it 2X's to rescue boats on the lake. Keeps our car tires inflated. Handy for bikes and rafts. It's a GREAT piece of machinery!! Worth the investment!!

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Heavy-Duty Auto Jumper Cables - Extra-Long 20-Ft Length - Heavy 8-Gauge Copper Wire Heavy-Duty Auto Jumper Cables - Extra-Long 20-Ft Length - Heavy 8-Gauge Copper Wire
Price : $37.99 $10.50
Features :
  1. Heavy-duty spring-loaded steel clamps
  2. 20" 4 guage cable

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

*Essential safety and security tool for every car and truck*NOT your average jumper cables--67% longer than regular sets for easier & safer reach between vehicles*Plus extra-thick 8-gauge copper cable has more conductivity for faster starts*Heavy-duty spring-loaded steel clamps, PVC coated for safety; copper jaws provide sure connection*Avoid being stranded waiting for a tow truck; one use and the set's paid for itself!An outstanding value in a quality automotive safety accessory.

Customer Review :

long jumper cables

It's really great to use when unable to get close enough to boost another vehicle. The extra length makes it so much easier.

Rating :



Excellent value

I have not needed to use these as yet, but they seem sturdy and a good buy.

Rating :



A close up visual is always important...

Excellent jumper cables for my son's automobile needs. The length is right, colors adequate, cable connection secured to clamps.

The only reason this product did not receive a five star was the image led me to believe the jaws where solid brass (similar to my old jumpers) but they are not.

Still good quality though and my son appreciated the cables!

Rating :



Battery Tender 081-0069-4 Alligator Clips with Black 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug Battery Tender 081-0069-4 Alligator Clips with Black 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug
Price : $7.95 $4.84
Features :
  1. 18" cord adaptor
  2. Plugs into all Deltran Battery Tenders
  3. Convenient for hard-to-access batteries
  4. Adaptor plug is compatible with most heated suits for motorcycles or snowmobiles
  5. Both Alligator Clips and Ring-Terminals come with each Battery Tender

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Battery Tender Alligator Clips is an accessory for use with multiple batteries. It features a white Quick Disconnect plug and is 2 feet long. These clips can be used with 12 volt models only.

Customer Review :

got what I wanted

I just wanted a replacement end for one of my many battery-tenders
thats what I got. priced right delivered on time.

Rating :



just what I needed

Right product, showed up quick, what can I say? I had a Battery Tender, and this was the option I needed to make it right.

Rating :



Battery Tender Alligator clips

The Battery Tender Alligator clips allow me to charge a battery without having to install the ring type terminals on the positive and negative posts. I can also charge a battery without having to remove it from a vehicle or removing the cables from the battery. A very handy item to use with my Deltran 4-bank charger.

Rating :



Not Bad But

This is a good product but the inline fuse does not work, it kept blowing each time I tried jumping off my bike. I had to cut out the fuse and it worked just fine after that.

Anthony

Rating :



Wagan 400-Watt Power Dome Jumpstarter with Built-In Air Compressor and LED Utility Light Wagan 400-Watt Power Dome Jumpstarter with Built-In Air Compressor and LED Utility Light
Price : $149.95 $89.11
Features :
  1. 400 cranking amp jump starter
  2. 275 PSI air compressor
  3. 5 built-in LED lights
  4. 18 amp hour DC power source
  5. Rechargeable via the included AC or DC adapters

Average Customer Rating :

Customer Review :

Excellent Product

This is an excellent product that serves multiple applications for auto safety (through jump starting and tire inflation) and as an electricity source.
It's compact attractive design is efficient and readily applicable to it's functions.
The instructions for the product are clear and easily understood.

Rating :



Wagan 400watt Power Dome

ON FEB. 27 2010 HAWAII RECEIVED A TSUNAMI(TIDAL WAVE) ALERT SO I HAD TO EVACUATE MY HOME AND HEAD FOR THE MOUNTAINS..USED MY POWERDOME FOR RADIO,LIGHTS,CHARGE CELLPHONE AND ALL WENT WELL..FROM 6AM TO 3PM IT OPERATED..WHEN I GOT HOME, POWERDOME STILL DID MAXIMUM VOLTAGE AND DID NOT HAVE TO BE RECHARGED..

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packaging

Inside packaging was severely damaged, and the prongs on the AC charger were bent. My suggestion is to use high density flexible foam packaging to protect this valuable HEAVY ITEM.

Rating :



JUNK!!!

I had to send this back three times, at my own expense of course. It will not hold a charge and never has. JUNK, JUNK, JUNK. I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it has never failed.

Rating :



Unit looks good and makes sense but has problems

Unit looks good and makes sense but has problems:

1)The manual is unclear and says that before jumpstarting, all switches should be off. However, in fact the jump start safety switch needs to be on.

2) It had only enough power to barely turn over, let alone start, my Mazda Millennium.

Rating :



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Questions & Answers
Question : I need to hook up a 2400 watt amp to power my subs?
But I already have a lot of power coming from my car battery to power up accessory lights. Should I hook up a second car battery to the alternator and use that to power my subs? And if I do hook up a second battery will that allow me to power my subs when the cars off, and still keep my main car battery charged?

Answer:
If you already draw a lot of power for your lights and you want to hook up a 2400 watt amp, a second battery would be a good idea. And consider that the same thing charging the main battery (the alternator) would also be charging secondary battery. It's a bad idea to bump subs with your engine shut off unless you want to kill your battery(s). So before you go to buy a second battery, make sure your alternator could handle the job of powering a 100Amp+ pull of a 2400watt amp and whatever amperage your lights would pull on top of regular car functions like headlights and windshield wipers. You may need to upgrade your alternator.Whatever you do, don't get tricked into buying a capacitor, they're useless.

 

Question : blue rem wire on amp?
ok ive pretty much asked alot of questions before. but im running a stock system, and tapping the rear speakers with a line out converter. everything is figured out except the blue rem wire that turns on the amp. i know you can tap into the fuse accessory of the car, but i looked at the fuse panel, and its wired in with the main computer, and so help me god i aint touching it. so what i figured is, what if i ran the rem wire directly from the battery, to a lil switch inside the cabin, then continued into the amp, that way i control if it makes connection. its basicly a one way switch, one side in, one side out, making one connection with no other polarity. and since the amp is grounded and running two [30] fuses, and the main positive red wire for the amp is fused as well, i dont see how it could cause any harm as long as i remember to shut it off when im done using it. would this work? considering i think a car battery only puts out around 12v of charge, same as any head unit or accessory wire.

Answer:
Why don't you connect it to the main power of the head unit at the back of the radio.....this avoids going through the firewall...and the amp will come on when the car is on and vice versa....or see if there is a ant. wire coming from the head unit....connect to it..

 

Question : Motorcycle Batteries and how they affect powering accessories?
Hi I have a bike that I am having a little problem with it powering my heated gear, the bike is rated at 432 watts at 7000 rpm and is a 3 phase 32 amp charging system, but the bike has a 10500 rpm redline and 7000 rpms at cruising is not good and around 4000 rpms feels good for cruising and on the hyway at 70 mph it is running at 4300 rpm so I do not know how many watts are being gennarated at that rpm, is there like a formaler to calcalate watts at that rpm, I have a program that you can put all the power the bike uses and with my heated jacket and gloves I have 35 watts left over. The battery is small and is rated for 200 cca and 12 amp hours, I can get a battery that has more power but do not know the benafites of the battery that puts out 250 cca and 18 amp hours, and if that would make the voltage regulator work more to keep it charged or hurt it, and only know that more amp hours would heat my gear better, so any info would help me allot. thanks Mike

Answer:
Why dont you just put a Higher Output Stator in it?Bottom Line,,,that's what's required.There's No Way around that.See if these folks have anything for Your Bike.I'd suggest contacting them about your output requirements at the rpm range you desire.See it meets your needs.They also have a rewinding service,I beleive.http://www.electrosport.com/index.htmlhttp://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.phpIf your full output rating is at 7Krpm,,,,leaving you only a CALCULATED 35W,,,I Hope You included Battery Charging in your Load Calculations.Even if so,,,You're PROBABLY running at a LOSS at 4,000rpm range.Almost Certainly.How much amperage is it Drawing at 4,000?What's the Voltage under full load at that speed?If you have a 32A system,,,the Voltage Regulator should be sufficient to handle a higher output stator reliably.If you want "cheap life insurance" for the Rect/Reg ,,Stick a 12v Computer CPU/Case Fan on the Reg's Heatsink.$5/5Minutes>>>>"50% Increase" in Life Expectancy.If this Mystery Machine of Unknown Make/Model/Year happens to have a unitized Rectifier/Regulator,,,,as most all do these days....You can Disable the Internal Rectifier and drop Heat thru the Floor by installing some cheapie Single Phase Bridge Rectifiers in each leg of the Alt's Output.Real Simple,,,basically splicing them inline.That way,,,the Internal Rectifier is precluded from having to BLOCK anything.No Load=NO HEAT.They Dont Care if they Idle and simply Pass the Pre-Rectified DC thru.The Big Benefit is,,It Removes 32AMPS of HEAT off the Regulator's Heatsink.Ya'd need 3 @ less than 10$ Each.If one fails SHORT---conducting FullWave AC,,Oh Well,,,the Internal one is redundant and the outboard one fails onto that.It automatically Resumes it's Normal Function .If one fails OPEN---conducting NOTHING...Put a Jumper wire across it until you can relace the 5~10$ Diode.Just My Opinion,,I'd rather risk a under $10 discrete component than a entire $100~150 integrated device.Makes Sense to me,anyway.But You AINT likely to smoke a 35Amp/600Volt PER PHASE Diode Bridge.I Doubt the Original Bridge has any heavier than 10A or15A Diodes.I cannot suggest anything Specific,,,because I have No Idea what bike I'm talking about.Thought about LED Replacements for Running and Tail Lights?Incandescents pull about 1~2 Amps Each.LED's will reduce that to less than 1/4 of current total.The 2~3 Amp capacity Gain dont sound like MUCH....Till you consider the difference of trying to charge Batt with Maybe 2A versus 5 or more.All the BS and Calculation and Grand Theory in the world WONT power your electrical system.What you Need to DO,,at Minimum,,,is Upgrade to a High Output Stator.It would also be Very Wise to add an Overkill-Sized, Fused power bus wire directly from the Battery to supply all your extra accessories.You can Manually Switch It,,,or use a cheap,simple Relay to correlate it's energizing with your Key Swich.Bike Harnesses seem to be invariably Marginal-Sized wire gauge,,,and almost always induce Some voltage drop even with Normal equip.*Get yourself a H.O. Stator*Get the Load OFF the Bike's original Wiring*Force Cool your Rect/Reg-Optional>Upgrade Your Rect/Reg to a HighOutput Rated one-Optional>Pre-Rectify each AC Phase to unload oem modular unit-Optional>>Use a Trio of Big Diodes,,,then into a Marine Regulator,,,Merc Outboard 40Amp one for example.They're Cheap and Tuff.-Optional>Unload the Demand a bit with a LED Swap for a small gain in capacityWhatever You do,,,,Until You Increase OUTPUT,,,You're getting Nowhere towards a Solution.Increased Output= Aftermarket Stator or Custom Rewound Stator.No Other real way to Increase Available Amperage output.Source:I was a Fan of the 60's TV Show "Green Acres" and recall the Hanie Farm :)Moral: If You want to USE More Power...You gotta HAVE More Power.Or Else Decide what to Unplug,,so You can Plug In Something ElseGood Luck with it,,hope Ya get it going good.

 

Question : ignition fuse keeps blowing?
I have a 1992 AWD Turbo eagle talon and It first started haveing a tough time getting started, I would have to give it gas to get it to start then it would run fine. Then today i leave my house and the car just shuts off. I tried to start it, nothing. I looked under the hood and the 30 Amp ignition/fuel pump/accessories fuse was blown. When I replace it everything works I turn the car over and it cranks but as soon as I turn the key off from cranking the fuse blows. It will let me crank as long as I want but as soon as I stop the fuse pops. Each time I replace it it will crank and all the accessories are on then pop. I checked my battery terminals and they along with all the wires look fine. Any ideas?The battery terminals and the wires are only a month old, there is no corrosion anywhere. I also used a multi meter on the battery with the fuse in and there is no voltage draw. I also pulled the blowing fuse and used the multimeter on the positive and ground that it plugs into and it shows perfect voltage. Is it possibly the fuel pump? Maybe the sending unit? I have a walbro 190 and in the AWD model you usually cant here it now its making a high pitch whirring.If its a starter short why will it crank as long as I have it turned over and only blow when I stop giving it voltage? I would think putting all that voltage to it would pop it but it will crank like a champ and the fuse doesnt get hot until you stop then pop!

Answer:
The symptoms you describe seems to point to a short in the DIS (distributorless ignition system), either the DIS module circuit or coil pack circuit. You say the fuse is a 30 Amp "ignition/fuel pump/accessories" fuse and you say that when you replace the fuse the starter will crank but then when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON (run) position the fuse will blow. The circuit then which is blowing the fuse is one which is not energized when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position, otherwise it would blow instantly. So that eliminates the fuel pump and accessories circuits which are protected by the fuse because the fuel pump and accessories are energized instantly when you first turn the ignition switch to the ON position. But the ignition circuit is not. The distributorless electronic ignition and coils are energized by the ASD relay (auto shut down relay) but not until the PCM (powertrain control module) receives a crank signal from the CPS (crankshaft position sensor).A simple test would be to unplug the ASD relay and then replace the blown fuse and crank the engine. The ASD relay on your 1992 Eagle Talon should be the middle relay of the three relays by the master cylinder. If while the ASD relay is unplugged the fuse does not blow when you release the ignition switch from the start position to the ON position then I would recommend that you check for a short in distributorless electronic ignition module lead and connector or a short in the leads and connectors to the coils. Also check the coils and electronic ignition module for any obvious signs of overheating which an internal short might cause, such as a spot which is blistered.

 

Question : When the bass kicks in my headlights dim...how do i solve this?
Obviously my subs are making my amp take too much power away from the other accessories in my car (headlights) but do i need a separate battery or a stronger alternator or whatThe two 8" subs and two speakers and two tweeters are pullin the ampAlso, i have a capcitor. But apparently its not working, perhaps its time to get a new/better one?

Answer:
you need a stronger alternator, your battery is only used to start the car from that point on its the alternator that keeps it running and keeps the battery charged, if you add another battery all you will do is put more strain on the alternatoryou could invest in a capacitor but those don't really help much, you may also want to see if your wires are thick enough (proper gauge)

 

Question : Please Help With Sub and Amp Choice!?
I am looking to buy a new system. It will be installed in a extended cab pickup for now and will be installed in an escalade soon. For the truck i was thinking i could just set the box with x2 15'' subs on the back seat because it wont fit anywhere else. I don't know much about this stuff and would like if you could help me pick the best type of subs and amp. Also i mostly listen to rap and metal and am looking for LOTS of bass.I will put the links to a few of the different things i was looking at.SUBS:(not sure what difference between the single or dual voice coil or like a 4ohm or 2ohm if you could specify which one i should get.)1. MTX 9500 15'': http://www.woofersetc.com/p2208/T951544--MTX-Thunder-9500-15"-DVC-Subwoofer.htm2. Kicker 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=168563. audiobahn 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14145AMPLIFIERS:(once you pick the best sub please pick the best amp for that sub. also i was told that i could put say a 1350 RMS amp to a 1000RMS sub and it would be fine and alot louder?)1. Hifonics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=206052. Boss: http://www.woofersetc.com/p6611/DD3600--Boss-Diablo-3600W-1-Channel-Amplifier.htm3. Hifonics: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5674/TXi1508D-Titan-Series-1500-Watt-Mono-Amplifier.htmAlso if there is a better sub or amp for around same price that i have not listed please let me know and if there are any other accessories that i would need such as a battery, capacitor etc. I dont really know much about those or what they do... thank you.ALSO i will throw in 2 choices for boxes becuase i understand that the box makes a huge difference so if u could tell me which one is better i would appreciate that too.1. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3518/SQ215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Sealed-Box.htm2. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3525/SQP215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Ported-Box.htm

Answer:
I am looking to buy a new system. It will be installed in a extended cab pickup for now and will be installed in an escalade soon. For the truck i was thinking i could just set the box with x2 15'' subs on the back seat because it wont fit anywhere else. I don't know much about this stuff and would like if you could help me pick the best type of subs and amp. Also i mostly listen to rap and metal and am looking for LOTS of bass.I will put the links to a few of the different things i was looking at.SUBS:(not sure what difference between the single or dual voice coil or like a 4ohm or 2ohm if you could specify which one i should get.)1. MTX 9500 15'': http://www.woofersetc.com/p2208/T951544--MTX-Thunder-9500-15"-DVC-Subwoofer.htm2. Kicker 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=168563. audiobahn 15'': http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14145AMPLIFIERS:(once you pick the best sub please pick the best amp for that sub. also i was told that i could put say a 1350 RMS amp to a 1000RMS sub and it would be fine and alot louder?)1. Hifonics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=206052. Boss: http://www.woofersetc.com/p6611/DD3600--Boss-Diablo-3600W-1-Channel-Amplifier.htm3. Hifonics: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5674/TXi1508D-Titan-Series-1500-Watt-Mono-Amplifier.htmAlso if there is a better sub or amp for around same price that i have not listed please let me know and if there are any other accessories that i would need such as a battery, capacitor etc. I dont really know much about those or what they do... thank you.ALSO i will throw in 2 choices for boxes becuase i understand that the box makes a huge difference so if u could tell me which one is better i would appreciate that too.1. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3518/SQ215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Sealed-Box.htm2. http://www.woofersetc.com/p3525/SQP215--Ground-Shaker-15"-Dual-Ported-Box.htm

 

Question : 12v Car Battery Setup?
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers

Answer:
What are my options?I Am trying to set up a duel battery setup for my Subaru brumbyCurrently it has a single battery and alternator.I would like to add a second battery to ensure the car can run all my Accessories (Sound Components: Head unit, Sony xplod 500w mono Amp, 6x 130w 4" speakers, 2 sony 1000w subs and 4x 6"x9" speakers.) All the audio Components run fine but when i turn on the spotlights/driving lights drains the juice pretty quickly.I was thinking of placing a 10 farad capacitor in the system and a second battery, but didn't want to pay $250AU for a duel battery setup.Can i just wire the two batteries in parallel and run the system off that or will it cook my alternator or have to many amps for the system to handle?Cheers

 

Question : How Long Does It Last For?
I have a amp 560watts with a sub and w 2x9 speakers and a cd player connected and turns on when switched to accessories. how long would it last for until the battery decides not to start the car ??

Answer:
impossible to answer. It all depends on the current that the car uses in accessory mode. The volume that your listening to your system at. The amperage draw of the amp at that level. Also the capacity of the battery.

 

Question : 87 integra blowing wiper fuse?
as soon as u turn the ignition to the accessories position the fuse blows. the wiper takes a 25 amp fuse and it also blew a 25 amp. it started a couple of days ago. is there a possibility that the motor is grounding? of course there should be if the fuses are going out like that but where should i begin.with the harness plugged in @ the motor there is power but when i unplug the harness and test light it from the battery there is nothing. Am i testing it wrong.the funny thing is that when the car is running and i put the fuse in it works just fine untill you turn the car off and then restart it then it blows the fuse any suggestions or remedies would be appreaciated..

Answer:
sounds like you have a crosswire. usually with the stereo unit. Although i would go to a sparky or autoelectrician as it could get worse even a fire.

 

Question : The truth about capacitors....?
A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit and even then the benefit is purely for voltage conditioning and has nothing to do with power conditioning. THEY DO NOT HELP WITH DIMMING LIGHTS.To get more current to your system, you need a high output alternator. This is the cure for dimming lights.For the record..... The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the vehicle and run the accessories with the engine off nothing else. The REAL power plant of the vehicle is the alternator.What brough this about was an answwer to this question - http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080816185107AAsYEkK&r=w#NbUvWju8VzmdRHfXRHQUThis line, "When instantaneous energy (current) is required by the amp to drive the subs, the energy is delivered from the capacitor, improving bass response and not taxing the car's electrical system." is totally bogus.ANY item that has internal resistance puts a a tax on the electrical system. Even batteries have an internal resistance. In no way does a cap "improve bass repsonse". That requires power and a cap is a voltage device, not a current device.This has been another Public Service AnnouncementA.A.S. degree in Electronics/Industrial Electronics with 25 years in the mobile audio/consumer electronics field, Peavey Media-Matrix certified audio engineer

Answer:
Yeah I know try explaining that to some of these people out here ,especially the ones who always thinks they are never wrong and they do not know what they are talking about....Try telling them for the systems they are installing it requires really big upgrades then they tell you that you are just trying to get them to spend extra when you are really trying to protect their electrical system and that a capacitor does not have the same function and/or capabilties of a alternator ......

 

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