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Motive Products Power Bleeder-Pro Adapters to fit virtually any car or truck on the road
Price : $89.95 $89.99
Features
: - True one person operation
Average
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Editorial Review :
PRO POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Kit Adapters to fit virtually any car or truck on the road Motive Products PRO POWER BLEEDERTM Bleeder Kit includes MP1100 European Adapter, MP1101 American Adapter and MP1105 Universal Clamp-On Adapter for single or dual reservoirs. POWER BLEEDERTM Features: * Heavy duty 2 quart pressure tank holds enough fluid to do complete flush & bleed. * Built-in hand pump (no other pressure source is needed) * Precision pressure gauge ensures safe and effective operation. * Tested for compatibility with both standard and synthetic hydraulic fluids. All bleeders come with everything you need to bleed your hydraulic brake or clutch system and a full 1 year warranty.
Customer Review :
Motive Power Bleeder
I was looking for an affordable Brake Bleeder and I was real amazed how well it worked. All I had to do was hook up the power bleeder, there was no need for a second person. The Brake bleeding job was done in minutes so this will save a lot of time in the future as well! I will recommend your product to others and look for your products to help me in the future.
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Pwr Bleed 70 Chevelle
The system came as advertized and looked to be well built. The large adaper plate I needed for my 70 Chevelle took a lot of time and effort to get sealed. I had a hard time getting the top of the master cylinder sealed to ensure it did't leak before using brake fluid. The plate bowed as I tightned the nuts. Kind of disappoing becaus it looked like a good system and should not be that hard to get a good seal to hold 5PSI.
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Driving me NUTS trying to get a seal on Lexus
This thing is built WELL, it looks like a GREAT solution to the problem. However, I got all ready to do this job today and can't get the universal cap squarely around the master cylinder due to the geometry. It's not as simple as it sounds, depending on what your master cylinder looks like. I tried different orientations and still can't get it to hold 5 psi, let alone 10 or 15. I don't know why they just don't come up with a pressure cap for each car manufacturer. I have 2 Toyota products - aren't there certainly enough of them on the road to warrant that???
I may update this review if I can finally get it to seal. I sure don't like the geometry involved though, especially with a fragile plastic master cylinder.
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OK, but not great
I'm sold on pressure bleeding - I like the method, and this tool does fit the bill in that category. I've tried vacuum bleeding with a MightyVac vacuum pump as well as those venturi-types that connect to your air compressor (not willing to use my A/C electric vacuum pump for this task) - I ALWAYS got bubbles in the output stream, especially in the rear lines, even when great care was taken to ensure a good seal of the vinyl tubing on the bleeder valve.
That said, this pressure bleeder attempts to be too universal, and makes for a potentially messy solution. Getting the cap adapter to seal properly takes a lot of fiddling. The penalty for a leaky seal is brake fluid all over, which is a *big* negative. It *does* work once you get it set up. I just had very limited confidence in the seal. Also, the pressure gauge on my unit was damaged during shipping, so I'll need to replace that before I use it again, so I can get a real indicator of pressure - I just pumped it up enough so that brake fluid would flow out of the lines as needed.
So I give it 3 stars because it is a fantastic way of bleeding the brakes without a helper, but getting it setup properly is overly finicky IMO. If the seal concern were eliminated, this tool would be an absolute pleasure to use. This tool does leave the M/C reservoir overfilled, so I still use my MightVac to suck out the extra!
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Better than a helper
I needed something to bleed my older European cars. I got an '83 944 and an '85 VW Vanagon. On these cars you can not do the job correctly without a bleeding system. It works nicely on these cars with the supplied attachments. However I do the bleeding process a little different than the instructions. I DO NOT fill the "Power Bleeder" ("PW") reservoir with brake fluid I only fill the car's brake fluid reservoir. I Attach the "PW" unit and pump up the pressure (see your manual for the proper pressure). I then bleed the system. I checking the pressure and re-pump if I have to. I keep an eye on the car's brake fluid reservoir and only add fluid to the reservoir not the "PW". It takes a little more time and you have to disconnect and reattach the "PB" to fill the reservoir but no mess.
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90 91 92 93 Honda Speed Sensor 78410SY0003 78410SM4003 Accord DX EX LX SE PRELUDE S SI 4WS
Price : $30.50 $12.47
Average
Customer Rating : Not
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Editorial Review :
Reference Part Number # 78410-SY0-003 78410-SM4-003
78410SY0003 78410SM4003
Standard Auto Parts # SC137 KEM # 163-729,
Factory List Price is $ 49.89.
Brand New OEM Quality Speed Sensor Will Fit List The Vehicles Below ?
HONDA ACCORD DX
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
1990 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1
HONDA ACCORD EX
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A4
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A6
1990 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1
1990 L4 2.2 FI N F22A4 HONDA ACCORD LX
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1
1990 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
HONDA PRELUDE S
1992 L4 2.2 FI N F22A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
HONDA ACCORD SE
1991 L4 2.2 FI N F22A6 Speedometer Impulse Sender
HONDA PRELUDE SI
1992 L4 2.3 FI N H23A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
HONDA PRELUDE SI 4WS
1992 L4 2.3 FI N H23A1 Speedometer Impulse Sender
Thank you for shopping with us, we appreciated your business!
Customer Review :
No review yet |
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ACDelco 25528382 Pressure Accumulator
Price : $106.95
Features
: - Features premium quality components
- Substandard cores are discarded
- Engineered to high standards
- Assured high quality and dependability
- Tested under extreme conditions
Average
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Editorial Review :
AC Delco Pressure Accumulator is engineered to meet all the high standards set by the industry. It is known for its quality, performance and dependability and provides long, maintenance free life. This unit is put through a variety of tests under extreme and unusual conditions to ensure high quality and dependability.
Customer Review :
Grain of Salt
Please take this with a grain of salt as I am receiving it from a forum of knowledgeable mechanics. It has been stated that these accumulators are 'new old stock' meaning that they are in fact new but are twenty years old. The accumulator, it is said, have a rubber bladder, this I know for fact as I cut my old one in half to see, and that an inert gas is on the top side thereby providing the needed pressure 'accumulation'. The problem with the twenty year old part is the inert gas has seeped over the twenty years through the rubber bladder and are not able to provide the designed pressure accumulation. I have noticed a decline in the performance of this newly acquired part over the last few months of operation. It is still MUCH better than the old part I replaced, but one might be better off buying a newer NOS part from a reputable dealer/supplier.
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Buick Reatta Power Brake Accumulator
Item was exactly what I needed. Arrived on time, in excellent shape at an excellent price. Five stars all the way
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Old stock accumulator made in West Germany
The accumulators available here are old stock items made in West Germany and are over 20 years old. According to automotive engineers, the shelf life for this part is only 10 years, so they fail quickly.
You get what you pay for, and this is an example of a part far past its life expectancy.
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ACDelco 25528382 Pressure Accumulator
The brakes on this Buick are the Type II Teves Antilock system. as such, parts are expensive and increasingly hard to come by. I took a chance with this Accumulator and am glad that I did. It is a perfect fit and even though "old stock", it is fully functional and restored my braking capacity to original performance. Went from 3 pedal strokes to warning light to 10-11 pedal strokes. This is where the pedal strokes should be!
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Great
This part was just as the seller stated. It arrived fast, and worked great . Thanks for saving me time and money
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OEM 27111 Disc Brake Tool Set
Price : $40.24 $40.24
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Customer Review :
Exactly what I ordered
I got exactly what I ordered from amazon. The product is exactly what I rented from an auto part store to do my brakes on my G6. I decided to buy one since I always do my own brakes on my car and SUV, and amazon had the same one for a good price. I like the fact it's for both regular disc brakes and screw rear brakes, which I have on my G6. The product seems to be of high quality material, which interested me in the first place.
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ACDelco 15-72971 Actuator Assembly
Price : $111.86
Average
Customer Rating : Not
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Editorial Review :
ACTUATOR,AIR INL VLV
Customer Review :
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Questions & Answers
Question : My '89 Lincoln needs a replacement integral master brake cyl/booster/controller. Suggestions finding one?
Hey guys, really need help finding an affordable replacement. Please note in my car's setup that the brake cylinder, booster, controller CANNOT be bought seperatly for my nightmare of a 89 continental. For some reason Lincoln had this great idea of making an integrated abs system that year that is terrible to say the least. The part is extremely hard to find and is very expensive from what information I can find. Lincoln phased out the part quickly and there are no after market parts that I can find either. Please help, I've invested thousands of dollars on my credit card to get my car working, I desperatley need this one part so I can have transportation to get to work. If I had the money to buy a new car I would, but unfortnatley thats not an option. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.
Answer:
Contact a Lincoln dealer and see if a rebuilt unit is available...Try NAPA...there are also lots of specialty brake repair houses around the country that specialize in rebuilding of obsolete brake boosters...try google...
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Question : the candyman can what?
Certificate that is the standard for the industry. This certification can be acquired in many areas, such as master truck mechanic, gasoline engines, drive trains, brakes, suspension and steering, electrical and electronic systems, or preventive maintenance inspection. One last and most important thing a technician needs is tools, lots of them too. Because most employers don’t have tools and mechanic with out tools is worthless because they have no way to get work done on a project.A technician must complete at least one of the A.S.E. exams and prove they have credible work experience of two or more years to receive a certification in a desired are. Credible training or experience can be from 2 years of formal training at school, trade school, or a collage. Technicians also have to pass the test once every five years to ensure there up to date with the constant change in technology (career overview.com/diesel mechanic and technician career overview)Most sops nice places to work depending on how clean, noisy, lighting, ventilation, and many small factors like sometimes you have on the road job where u have to repair a truck on a highway so it can make it to a shop in all seasons. While working you need to be physically fit to lift heavy parts and set them on to jacks and hoists, and may receive small cuts, bruises, burns so proper safety should be taken first. Technicians are always handling greasy tools, parts and also stand or have to lie down on funny positions to get the job done right and fast. Most technicians will work about a forty to fifty hours a week depending on how busy they are and if they have an emergency repair. Many shops have made it to where they may be working on trucks 24 hours a day to help out the customers, with this that makes the job employment ever greater.( careers.stateuniversity.comDiesel-Mechanic)Because many experienced technicians are employed by truck fleet dealers and independent repair shops receive a commission related to the labor costs charged to the customer, weekly earnings depend on the amount of work completed. Beginners usually earn from 50 to 75 percent of the rate of skilled workers and receive increases as they become more skilled. Most technicians are starting to work around the clock because of the demand. There usually working for truck and bus firms and are members of labor unions .The common wages for a diesel truck and bus mechanic, including incentive pay, were $21.20 in May 2008. The middle 50 percent earned between $15.73 and $28.13 an hour. The lowest paid where making $11.19, and the highest people paid where getting $30.67 an hour. (Job salaries/collegegrad.com/careers)How did you start? After graduating high school, I spent 4 years as an apprentice, auto mechanic, and then I branched over into heavy equipment and eventually trucks.What are your required to do? A diesel mechanic is expected to diagnose and be able to overhaul a diesel engine top to bottom, refitting new parts where needed.Is it what u expected it would be, or different? You get a lot dirtier working on diesels than other engines and they smell a lot different.What’s the shop environment like? Shops are either very noisy when a few engines are running, or as quiet as a library, when they are being worked on.What wages do you make? Some shops are now paying $30.00 or more per hour for mechanics. When I retired I made $18.00What’s your favorite part of your job? Every other mechanic I know loves the sound when they start up an engine that they have repaired, it's the biggest thrill. . I enjoyed the work, and it was a great feeling to know you could fix anything that moved, or moved other things with great power.Did u go to school for it, also how did u pay for school? I did not pay for schooling, it was part of the apprenticeship program, but expensive tools must be bought along the way. At retirement, mine had a replacement value of $20,000.00
Answer:
Make a rainbow. Really.
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Question : VW Bug Brake value replacement?
Hi, i have a 1969 volkswagen bug. Time to time on of my wheels looses its brake. My mechanic said that one of the values which exist between the brake line and the master pump might getting blocked and have to replace it. But the problem is i couldn't find those values since they are out of stock in my country. So what the part dealer said was to connect the line without the value. 1. What kind of a work those values does in the brake system ?2. If those are removed what is the bad side of it ?Thank you in advance.Gayan,Well there are 3 small cylinder kind thing which are connected to the master cylinder and the 3 brake lines are fixed on those 3 cylinder's other end. well as i heard they maintain the pressure in the lines.
Answer:
Valves?You mean the slave cylinders in the individual wheels, or do you mean the valves which are located INSIDE of the master cylinder.?Thre are no other valves that I know of in the lines as VW has a pretty straightforward brake systemSlave cylinders are easy to come by. Go to JCWHITNEY.COM to get them.Now if you are losing pressure in BOTH of the front tires or BOTH of the rear ones, then the suspect is the mastercylinder. Also easy to get.. same source.LASTLY>... check to see if you have a pinhole leak in the actual tubing which would allow air to be sucked back into the lines. That would also cause an individual wheel failure. Look for brake fluid residue on the lines or drops on the groundIn either case, if your mechanic says there are in-line valves, its time for a new mechanic..
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Question : How to manage huge customer interest in my offer to sell my car?
This is long but I think it's interesting so give it a try: I've got a '95 Jeep Cherokee Country 4x4 auto that finally has too many problems to make it economically feasible for me to keep driving. I already bought a replacement car a month ago so the Jeep has been sitting in my driveway.Major Problems: 1) serious oil and coolant leaks, head gasket related (dealer estimate was @ $2k), cooling system has been sketchy due to the leak, but if closely maintained will run - hotter than normal but not overheat. Oil leak requires refilling every few days, and oil pressure is dodgy due to leaks. White smoke from exhaust. 2) A/C is out, not diagnosed but I wouldn't be surprised if it is busted, 3) rear brakes need work/replacing.Minor problems: rust beneath rear passenger door, rear wiper broken, rear driver power lock tempermental, a few cosmetic things.Frankly if not for the gasket/leaks, I'd just get the brakes fixed and keep driving the car, but given all that's wrong w/it I posted it as a "mechanics special" - recommending it be used for parts/project, detailing the major problems. It's got airbags, premium rims, fairly new michelins, good parts. Listed for $500 obo on Craiglist last nite.WELL - I got ALOT of interest, mostly from mechanics thinking they can fix the gasket and then drive the car. Over 10 inquiries in the 1st 3 hrs, 20+ now.The first few callers wanted to see the car, so I said I'd show it Saturday. These people said they'd call me Saturday.A couple people offered me $500 on the spot (phone) sight unseen (besides the pics on CL).Thing is - based on all my talks with the responders to the ad - I honestly think I may well end up getting more than $500 for the car come Saturday - so I am declining the $500 verbal over the phone offers.Obviously there's a whole bird in hand v. bird in bush thing here - but a verbal offer over the phone doesn't mean much either - could be just a ploy to see the car first and not get caught up in a bidding war.I figure that even if the Saturday showing ends up failing - I figure I have lost nothing by not taking these 'bird in hand' verbal offers. If they truly would take the car for $500 sight unseen today, why would they not still do it tomorrow evening? And with all the interest even if Sat. fails I am pretty sure now that I can get $500 for it, either from the people who have already verbally offered or if I post it again I can just accept such an offer on the spot.Am I doing the right thing? I was caught a little off guard by all the responses but I think the right thing to do is to show the car one day and give myself the opportunity to get a better bid than $500.Oh- and a scammer replied too - saying he was vacationing in London but would have his assistant send me a moneygram. I replied "cash only inperson sale"
Answer:
if you think you can get more for it than your asking...then take the ad down and wait a week or two and repost it at a higher price.you'll likely have less interest in it at that point though.the amount you have on it right now is low enough that if whoever buys it finds out the problems are MUCH MUCH larger than originally thought, they wont break the bank fixing them because initial cost was low enough.plus there's the people that will buy the car from you for that price and then slowly part the car out for more money than they paid...but that also takes time/patience, etc.personally, just leave it at that price and say first come first serve with the cash and get a couple people set up with close meeting times so that maybe you can get a bidding war in person for the car where one guy walks up while other guy is looking and offers you an extra $100 or so to buy it out from under the other guy.dont take less though, just turn them away with the amount of interest you've got in it. it will sell for at least $500 even if someone tells you the engine is knocking horribly or whatnot.
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Question : i need some help from someone who REALLY knows about fords?
i work at a ford dealership (i answer phones and direct calls) and i dont know why but they are requireing that i be trained in ford product knowledge. ive searched all over the damn ford website for the past 3 days, and there are just a couple of questions i cant find, no matter what. PLEASE HELP im at the banging my head againts the wall stage with this. OK here goes...1 when towing, it is vital that the proper hitch be used. what type of hitch is used to distribute tongue load to all towing vehicle and trailer wheels?A weight distributing hitchB segmented hitchC any trailer hitchD weight carrying hitch2 what does a four wheel anti lock braking system help provide?A improved stopping performance thru the action of two separate vehicle braking systemsB straight, more controlled stops, while helping the driver maintain steering control under most road conditionsC continuous brake pressure to stop the vehicle when the driver starts pumping the brake pedalD the ability to lock out a failing brake and use the other wheels for safe stops3 what drive mode does the control trac four wheel drive system provide that is not available on fords manual shift on the fly (MSOF) and electronic shift on the fly (ESOF) systems?A 4X4 LOWB 4x4 HIGHC 4x4 AUTOD 4x2 LOW4 what is the benefit of dual stage air bags?A they provide the capability of deploying at high or low outputB they will not deploy if the driver weighs less than 75 pounds to reduce the risk of airbag related injury during a collisionC they deflate and return to their original positions after a collision, eliminating the need for replacement and additional repair costsD they have a "dual bladder" design to cover more surface area and better protect the occupants head and chest5 which statement is correct regarding all speed traction control?A when the traction control system is activated at speeds of 35 mph or higher, the braking system is deactivated and only engine control is used to limit wheel spinB when the traction control switch is activated, a mechanical lock inside the rear differential housing solidly locks the rear axle shafts togetherC the system uses a viscous coupling to mechanically link the drive wheels together for improved performance on slippery surfacesD the system uses torque converter to increase torque to each wheel when wheel slip is detected6 how long does the SOS post crash alert system operate?A until the airbags are completely deflatedB for up to 20 min and then it shuts offC until it is deactivated or until the battery power is depletedD until the drivers door is open7 what feature built into the infrastructure of all ford vehicles helps dissipate the force of the impact?A front and rear crumple zonesB BlockerBeamC SPACE (side protection and cabin enhancement) architectureD hydroformed frame rails8 what is the benefit of power adjustable brake and accelerator pedals?A They retract into the floor when the igniton is off to allow easy entry and exitB They allow drivers of smaller stature to comfortably reach the pedalsC They can be adjusted for hard feel or soft feelD They have a forward and rearward adjustment of up to 8 inches9 The driver and right front passenger side airbags are designed to enhance protection of what parts of the body of the driver and right front passenger in certain side impacts?A legsB kneesC chestD hips10 which is correct regarding the use of safety belts in airbag equipped vehicles?A an airbad will not deploy unless the corresponding safety belt mechanism is engagedB front airbags are not designed to be activated in side, rear, rollover or low speed frontal collisions. safety belts can hep reduce the rish of injusry to occupants under these conditinosC the use of safety belts are not required in an airbag equipped vehicle since airbags are safety belts perform the same functionD when safety belts are engaged, airbags will deploy at full power. when safety belts are disengaged, the airbags will deploy at low power
Answer:
I would find another line of employment. Your cheating off the nerd sitting next to you in school.
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Question : Regarding Ford Escort's coolant level sensor replacement...?
I have a 1995 Ford Escort LX Sport that runs great (though I keep having to replace the exhaust system), but needs to have the the coolant level sensor replaced. Anyone know how easy it is to replace this myself? I am not a beginner when it comes to car repair (have done my own brakes, oil changes, belts, alternators, starters, selenoids, tune-ups, etc), but have never touched any sensors before, I would like to know what I am getting into before I decide to track down the elusive part and skip the ASE Certified mechanic. Thanks!!Also, would like to know how essentail this part is. I have a trip planned soon and if I can get away with not replacing it until I get back, I will.
Answer:
For the sake of 10 pound replace it, it is easy to do and willtake about 10 minute's, without it you will not know therunning condition of your car I,E temperature, and the normalthings that can go wrong when you temperature hits the Red...
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Question : i have a 96 cavalier and my left turn signal is not blinking but on. i dont think its a bulb. i need help.?
its weird. both turn signals work until i turn my head lights or parking lights on, then the left blinker stays lit and doesnt blink. the right signal works just fine. also i could have my keys out of the ignition and when i press on the brake the whole dash lights up and my parking lights come on. wat is causing this? i dont think its a relay switch, maybe a bad ground? i hate electrical systems so freaking much. any help would mean so much. i wanna fix it myself not pay a $150 bill for a $10 replacement part.
Answer:
its weird. both turn signals work until i turn my head lights or parking lights on, then the left blinker stays lit and doesnt blink. the right signal works just fine. also i could have my keys out of the ignition and when i press on the brake the whole dash lights up and my parking lights come on. wat is causing this? i dont think its a relay switch, maybe a bad ground? i hate electrical systems so freaking much. any help would mean so much. i wanna fix it myself not pay a $150 bill for a $10 replacement part.
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Question : can someone help me identify this part of my brake system that leaks?
I would like to know if anyone can identify the block that the brake lines hooks onto that is mounted by the coil spring housing. the structure has some lines coming out of it. one line to master cylinder, one line to each of the two calipers. 1993 ford ranger two wheel drive. Can anyone identify this part, and if so, where would I be able to find a replacement. It is necessary, for my breaks are leaking around this area.
Answer:
I believe your talking about the proportioning valve, that might be a dealer only item but you can try a parts store, those rarely go bad, make sure it isn't one of the brake line fittings that go into the valve that's leaking.
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Question : What is a "Distribution Valve" as it relates to a 1998 Kia Sephia brake system?
I'm being told by my mechanic that my Distribution Valve has gone out on my Kia Sephia. He claims that this part is not usually a common part of a car to malfunction. So I'm having difficulties finding a replacement part. Where can a find this part? OR Would it be best to just get a new car? I saw a different mechanic that told me the part + labor, etc. will cost at least $300! Can anyone please help?!
Answer:
Call the dealer parts department there is nothing in the whole brake system that cost that much except the ABS unit are you sure that's not what he said cause the proportion valve is fairly cheap .
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Question : 1972 Chevy C10 or 2005+ Toyota Tacoma?
I'm looking for a used truck for small jobs around an urban neighborhood. Mostly hauling trash and yard waste, carrying lumber and furniture, and the like. I'm not doing any farm work or heavy towing, but the vehicle may see a gravel road every now and again. I live so close to my job that I usually bicycle commute, so the truck isn't going to see many miles, and very little if any interstate highway travel. I don't need a crew cab or any bells and whistles, but I do have a young son that's using a booster seat, so I need a three-point harness. I am interested in 1971-72 Chevy trucks because I love the classic styling and that's about as old as you can go and still get front disc brakes. They only have lap belts though - so I'd need to retrofit a modern seatbelt assembly. I used to have an old Volvo wagon, and I was starting to have to replace major vehicle systems, which were very expensive from my local Volvo specialist. Would finding replacement parts for an old Chevy be similarly expensive? Lots of these old trucks have been overhauled once or twice by now, and I live in the South where there isn't much rust and many of the old timers around here really babied their vehicles.I'm interested in the 2005 Tacos also because of their styling, and the decent mpg I can get from a manual 4 cyl reg. cab. The newer trucks also have good seat belts and airbags, so I'd feel safer driving around with my son. I also imagine a newer truck to be more reliable, to have lower operating costs and less expensive repairs, but I'm just not sure comparing it to a non-computerized, non-plastic workhorse like an old Chevy with a new engine...So, you see - I have a dilemma - please talk me into or out of an old Chevy or a newer Toyota and thanks!good tips, re: airbags & tires
Answer:
the chevy parts will b cheaper and any garage can work on it including ur neighbor....doesn't need any special computer programming ect.....if u get one in decent shape it will last u another 30 years or more if u take care of it....parts are every where ......as for safety...if u put in a harness it will b as safe if not safer for ur son.......airbags are very dangerous for children anyway so that is actually a negative on the toyota...since u would have to turn the passenger one off anyway....as for fuel mileage.....with u stating that u won't b driving it much the cost in fuel will b easily overcome by the saving in payments and insurance........even in replacing tires.....15" are a lot cheaper than the 16" or 17" most newer cars come with...to the tune of about 150-300 bucks on a set of 4 tires new....
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