Motive Products GM Power Bleeder - Replacement Parts

Wish I knew about this tool earlier!

I saw this tool on an episode of Powerblock TV. I ended up taking my 98 Saturn SL2 to the dealer for the last rear brake job because I didn't want to go through the hassle of recruiting someone to help pump the brakes. (It cost me 540.00 of which 400.00 was for labor!)
When I discovered that my rear wheel cylinders were leaking again, I knew it was time to get this tool. Since the brake fluid was dark colored and probably very old, I planned to flush the system rather than just bleeding it. I felt this bleeder would suit this perfectly.
After reading other reviews, I decided to do one modification. I installed a metal tire valve stem on the tank. (I'm not recommending that anyone should do this, this was done just for my personal use.) Instead of using the hand pump to pressurize the tank, I planned to use the built in air compressor on my battery jump starter. (I finally got to make good use of it since it was worthless as far as jump starting cars, but that's another story.) Since I planned on using the "dry" method, I could use the schrader valve to relieve pressure in the tank, rather than unscrewing the cap.
The cap that goes on the master cylinder is specifically made for my car type and not universal, so it fits on nice and tight, no leaks. An extra gasket for the cap was included.
The gauge goes up to 30 psi but it is recommended that you don't exceed 20 psi.
I kept it between 10-15 psi to be on the safe side. It was more than enough pressure to push the brake fluid through the system. The air compressor in my jump starter pressurized the tank slowly enough so that it wouldn't accidentally over pressurize the tank. Since I did employ the "dry" method, I had to refill the master cylinder and make sure the fluid level didn't get too low. (If it does, you'll be sorry!) It took around four refills per wheel since I was flushing the system rather than just bleeding it. To me, this small hassle was better than the clean up and wasting of brake fluid associated with employing the "wet" method. The schrader valve worked as I had planned, and it was easy to relieve the tank pressure before refilling the master cylinder.
This was the easiest brake bleeding job that I have ever done. I'm almost (I said almost!) looking forward to the next bleeding job! The bleeder is very sturdily built and worked as advertised. My only regret is that I didn't discover it sooner!

Rating :

never bleed the old way again

i swap brakes for every track day. it was always a pain to get someone else to help bleed the brakes. now with the motive, its even faster then the old pump and bleed method, and you dont need anyone else. just attach, pump, bleed, and air out the tank, and youre done. buy this with confidence and never look back.

Rating :

Brembo 25507 Front Disc Brake Rotor
Price : $32.90
Features :

To ensure maximum safety over time, Brembo uses highly advanced calculation and simulation systems in designing its brake rotors, to obtain peak performance
Precise tolerances offer maximum performance, increased comfort, and extended longevity of the brake-system components
The braking surface is machined to exact OEM specifications to ensure synergy between the friction material and rotor during the run-in period
An electronic balancing system is used during the production process to eliminate an unbalanced weight distribution, thus eliminating the risk of vibrations
The innovative Brembo-patented pillar venting technology increases overall rotor cooling and provides 40% more resistance to thermal cracking

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Since the 1960s, Brembo has concentrated all its effort and expertise into becoming one of the leading global suppliers of braking systems. Brembo's quality high-carbon rotors are used for numerous vehicle applications. Highlighting Brembo's commitment to technology and quality, these high-carbon brake rotors have the ability to better dampen vibration and noise, thus improving comfort and, ultimately, performance.

Customer Review :

Brembo always good

I have used brembo on Volvo, Mercedes and BMW. Now I have used them on Honda too and they work extremely well matched with the OEM Nissin pads.

Rating :

Akebono EUR1348 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
Price : $50.31
Features :

Ultimate upgrade for OE semi-metallic, organic and low-metallic brake pads
Ultra-Quiet - controls noise, vibration and harshness level
European braking performance with enhanced pedal feel
Extremely rotor friendly for longer rotor life
Friction formulas specially designed for European vehicles

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Customer Review :

No review yet

ACDelco D465 Distributor Rotor
Price : $10.92 $4.98
Features :

Designed to resist corrosion
Backed by a limited warranty
Engineered to high standards
D3EA tested
Matches original manufacturers design

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

AC Delco Distributor Rotor is engineered to meet all the high standards set by the industry. It is D3EA tested and matches original manufacturers design for display heat, prolong pad and rotor life. This unit is put through a variety of tests under extreme and unusual conditions to ensure high quality and dependability.

Customer Review :

very easy to change

yep very easy to change. just take out 2 screws (torx bit) take the old one out set the new one on there is put in the new screws Highly recommend changing with when you change your cap

Rating :

AC Delco quality, good price

Purchased at a fraction of the cost that the local parts houses wanted. I also purchased the distributor cap, both came with new mounting screws, very important on this style distributor.

Rating :

92-05 Honda SPEED SENSOR 78410SV4003 Accord Civic del Sol Odyssey Prelude Isuzu Oasis Acura CL TL NSX 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05
Price : $32.25 $19.25

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Reference Number # 78410-SV4-003 78410SR3003 5862039980

78410SV4003 78410-SR3-003 AW78410SV4

Brand New OEM Quality Speed Sensor Will Fit List The Vehicles Below :

Factory List Price is $ 130.98
Year Make Model Sub Model

1997 Acura CL
1993-2005 Acura NSX
1999-2000 Acura TL
1992-1997 Honda Accord
1992-1995 Honda Civic
1993-1997 Honda Civic del Sol
1995-1997 Honda Odyssey
2000-2001Honda Odyssey EX
1993-2001 Honda Prelude
1997-2001 Honda Prelude Base
1996-1997 Isuzu Oasis

Thank you for shopping with us,we appreciated your business!

Customer Review :

good part

It arrived earlier than expected and was in perfect condition however it didn't fix the problem of the odometer and speedometer working :( Neither works still and now I'm going to have to find a speedometer and replace that as I've been told it might be that. What a major pain the rear! Grrrrr

Rating :

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Questions & Answers

Question : i have a 96 cavalier and my left turn signal is not blinking but on. i dont think its a bulb. i need help.?
its weird. both turn signals work until i turn my head lights or parking lights on, then the left blinker stays lit and doesnt blink. the right signal works just fine. also i could have my keys out of the ignition and when i press on the brake the whole dash lights up and my parking lights come on. wat is causing this? i dont think its a relay switch, maybe a bad ground? i hate electrical systems so freaking much. any help would mean so much. i wanna fix it myself not pay a $150 bill for a $10 replacement part.

Answer:
its weird. both turn signals work until i turn my head lights or parking lights on, then the left blinker stays lit and doesnt blink. the right signal works just fine. also i could have my keys out of the ignition and when i press on the brake the whole dash lights up and my parking lights come on. wat is causing this? i dont think its a relay switch, maybe a bad ground? i hate electrical systems so freaking much. any help would mean so much. i wanna fix it myself not pay a $150 bill for a $10 replacement part.

Question : Regarding Ford Escort's coolant level sensor replacement...?
I have a 1995 Ford Escort LX Sport that runs great (though I keep having to replace the exhaust system), but needs to have the the coolant level sensor replaced. Anyone know how easy it is to replace this myself? I am not a beginner when it comes to car repair (have done my own brakes, oil changes, belts, alternators, starters, selenoids, tune-ups, etc), but have never touched any sensors before, I would like to know what I am getting into before I decide to track down the elusive part and skip the ASE Certified mechanic. Thanks!!Also, would like to know how essentail this part is. I have a trip planned soon and if I can get away with not replacing it until I get back, I will.

Answer:
For the sake of 10 pound replace it, it is easy to do and willtake about 10 minute's, without it you will not know therunning condition of your car I,E temperature, and the normalthings that can go wrong when you temperature hits the Red...

Question : How to manage huge customer interest in my used car for sale?
This is long but I think it's interesting so give it a try: I've got a '95 Jeep Cherokee Country 4x4 auto that finally has too many problems to make it economically feasible for me to keep driving. I already bought a replacement car a month ago so the Jeep has been sitting in my driveway.Major Problems: 1) serious oil and coolant leaks, head gasket related (dealer estimate was @ $2k), cooling system has been sketchy due to the leak, but if closely maintained will run - hotter than normal but not overheat. Oil leak requires refilling every few days, and oil pressure is dodgy due to leaks. White smoke from exhaust. 2) A/C is out, not diagnosed but I wouldn't be surprised if it is busted, 3) rear brakes need work/replacing.Minor problems: rust beneath rear passenger door, rear wiper broken, rear driver power lock tempermental, a few cosmetic things.Frankly if not for the gasket/leaks, I'd just get the brakes fixed and keep driving the car, but given all that's wrong w/it I posted it as a "mechanics special" - recommending it be used for parts/project, detailing the major problems. It's got airbags, premium rims, fairly new michelins, good parts. Listed for $500 obo last nite.WELL - I got ALOT of interest, mostly from mechanics thinking they can fix the gasket and then drive the car. Over 10 inquiries in the 1st 3 hrs, 20+ now.The first few callers wanted to see the car, so I said I'd show it Saturday. These people said they'd call me Saturday.A couple people offered me $500 on the spot sight unseen (besides the pics on CL).Thing is - based on all my talks with the responders to the ad - I honestly think I may well end up getting more than $500 for the car come Saturday - so I am declining the $500 verbal over the phone offers.Obviously there's a whole bird in hand v. bird in bush thing here - but a verbal offer over the phone doesn't mean much either - could be just a ploy to see the car first and not get caught up in a bidding war.I figure that even if the Saturday showing ends up failing - I figure I have lost nothing by not taking these 'bird in hand' verbal offers. If they truly would take the car for $500 sight unseen today, why would they not still do it tomorrow evening? And with all the interest even if Sat. fails I am pretty sure now that I can get $500 for it, either from the people who have already verbally offered or if I post it again I can just accept such an offer on the spot.Am I doing the right thing? I was caught a little off guard by all the responses but I think the right thing to do is to show the car one day and give myself the opportunity to get a better bid than $500.Oh- and a scammer replied too - saying he was vacationing in London but would have his assistant send me a moneygram. I replied "cash only inperson sale"

Answer:
That pile 'o crap is worth $100 to a junkyard. If someone is offering $500 just sell it already because playing this "bidding war" game will blow up in ur face.

Question : My '89 Lincoln needs a replacement integral master brake cyl/booster/controller. Suggestions finding one?
Hey guys, really need help finding an affordable replacement. Please note in my car's setup that the brake cylinder, booster, controller CANNOT be bought seperatly for my nightmare of a 89 continental. For some reason Lincoln had this great idea of making an integrated abs system that year that is terrible to say the least. The part is extremely hard to find and is very expensive from what information I can find. Lincoln phased out the part quickly and there are no after market parts that I can find either. Please help, I've invested thousands of dollars on my credit card to get my car working, I desperatley need this one part so I can have transportation to get to work. If I had the money to buy a new car I would, but unfortnatley thats not an option. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

Answer:
Contact a Lincoln dealer and see if a rebuilt unit is available...Try NAPA...there are also lots of specialty brake repair houses around the country that specialize in rebuilding of obsolete brake boosters...try google...

Question : i need some help from someone who REALLY knows about fords?
i work at a ford dealership (i answer phones and direct calls) and i dont know why but they are requireing that i be trained in ford product knowledge. ive searched all over the damn ford website for the past 3 days, and there are just a couple of questions i cant find, no matter what. PLEASE HELP im at the banging my head againts the wall stage with this. OK here goes...1 when towing, it is vital that the proper hitch be used. what type of hitch is used to distribute tongue load to all towing vehicle and trailer wheels?A weight distributing hitchB segmented hitchC any trailer hitchD weight carrying hitch2 what does a four wheel anti lock braking system help provide?A improved stopping performance thru the action of two separate vehicle braking systemsB straight, more controlled stops, while helping the driver maintain steering control under most road conditionsC continuous brake pressure to stop the vehicle when the driver starts pumping the brake pedalD the ability to lock out a failing brake and use the other wheels for safe stops3 what drive mode does the control trac four wheel drive system provide that is not available on fords manual shift on the fly (MSOF) and electronic shift on the fly (ESOF) systems?A 4X4 LOWB 4x4 HIGHC 4x4 AUTOD 4x2 LOW4 what is the benefit of dual stage air bags?A they provide the capability of deploying at high or low outputB they will not deploy if the driver weighs less than 75 pounds to reduce the risk of airbag related injury during a collisionC they deflate and return to their original positions after a collision, eliminating the need for replacement and additional repair costsD they have a "dual bladder" design to cover more surface area and better protect the occupants head and chest5 which statement is correct regarding all speed traction control?A when the traction control system is activated at speeds of 35 mph or higher, the braking system is deactivated and only engine control is used to limit wheel spinB when the traction control switch is activated, a mechanical lock inside the rear differential housing solidly locks the rear axle shafts togetherC the system uses a viscous coupling to mechanically link the drive wheels together for improved performance on slippery surfacesD the system uses torque converter to increase torque to each wheel when wheel slip is detected6 how long does the SOS post crash alert system operate?A until the airbags are completely deflatedB for up to 20 min and then it shuts offC until it is deactivated or until the battery power is depletedD until the drivers door is open7 what feature built into the infrastructure of all ford vehicles helps dissipate the force of the impact?A front and rear crumple zonesB BlockerBeamC SPACE (side protection and cabin enhancement) architectureD hydroformed frame rails8 what is the benefit of power adjustable brake and accelerator pedals?A They retract into the floor when the igniton is off to allow easy entry and exitB They allow drivers of smaller stature to comfortably reach the pedalsC They can be adjusted for hard feel or soft feelD They have a forward and rearward adjustment of up to 8 inches9 The driver and right front passenger side airbags are designed to enhance protection of what parts of the body of the driver and right front passenger in certain side impacts?A legsB kneesC chestD hips10 which is correct regarding the use of safety belts in airbag equipped vehicles?A an airbad will not deploy unless the corresponding safety belt mechanism is engagedB front airbags are not designed to be activated in side, rear, rollover or low speed frontal collisions. safety belts can hep reduce the rish of injusry to occupants under these conditinosC the use of safety belts are not required in an airbag equipped vehicle since airbags are safety belts perform the same functionD when safety belts are engaged, airbags will deploy at full power. when safety belts are disengaged, the airbags will deploy at low power

Answer:
I would find another line of employment. Your cheating off the nerd sitting next to you in school.

Question : 1972 Chevy C10 or 2005+ Toyota Tacoma?
I'm looking for a used truck for small jobs around an urban neighborhood. Mostly hauling trash and yard waste, carrying lumber and furniture, and the like. I'm not doing any farm work or heavy towing, but the vehicle may see a gravel road every now and again. I live so close to my job that I usually bicycle commute, so the truck isn't going to see many miles, and very little if any interstate highway travel. I don't need a crew cab or any bells and whistles, but I do have a young son that's using a booster seat, so I need a three-point harness. I am interested in 1971-72 Chevy trucks because I love the classic styling and that's about as old as you can go and still get front disc brakes. They only have lap belts though - so I'd need to retrofit a modern seatbelt assembly. I used to have an old Volvo wagon, and I was starting to have to replace major vehicle systems, which were very expensive from my local Volvo specialist. Would finding replacement parts for an old Chevy be similarly expensive? Lots of these old trucks have been overhauled once or twice by now, and I live in the South where there isn't much rust and many of the old timers around here really babied their vehicles.I'm interested in the 2005 Tacos also because of their styling, and the decent mpg I can get from a manual 4 cyl reg. cab. The newer trucks also have good seat belts and airbags, so I'd feel safer driving around with my son. I also imagine a newer truck to be more reliable, to have lower operating costs and less expensive repairs, but I'm just not sure comparing it to a non-computerized, non-plastic workhorse like an old Chevy with a new engine...So, you see - I have a dilemma - please talk me into or out of an old Chevy or a newer Toyota and thanks!good tips, re: airbags & tires

Answer:
the chevy parts will b cheaper and any garage can work on it including ur neighbor....doesn't need any special computer programming ect.....if u get one in decent shape it will last u another 30 years or more if u take care of it....parts are every where ......as for safety...if u put in a harness it will b as safe if not safer for ur son.......airbags are very dangerous for children anyway so that is actually a negative on the toyota...since u would have to turn the passenger one off anyway....as for fuel mileage.....with u stating that u won't b driving it much the cost in fuel will b easily overcome by the saving in payments and insurance........even in replacing tires.....15" are a lot cheaper than the 16" or 17" most newer cars come with...to the tune of about 150-300 bucks on a set of 4 tires new....

Question : Old Chevy or newer Toyota truck?
I'm looking for a used truck for small jobs around an urban neighborhood. Mostly hauling trash and yard waste, carrying lumber and furniture, and the like. I'm not doing any farm work or heavy towing, but the vehicle may see a gravel road every now and again. I live so close to my job that I usually bicycle commute, so the truck isn't going to see many miles, and very little if any interstate highway travel. I don't need a crew cab or any bells and whistles, but I do have a young son that's using a booster seat, so I need a three-point harness. I am interested in 1971-72 Chevy trucks because I love the classic styling and that's about as old as you can go and still get front disc brakes. They only have lap belts though - so I'd need to retrofit a modern seatbelt assembly. I used to have an old Volvo wagon, and I was starting to have to replace major vehicle systems, which were very expensive from my local Volvo specialist. Would finding replacement parts for an old Chevy be similarly expensive? Lots of these old trucks have been overhauled once or twice by now, and I live in the South where there isn't much rust and many of the old timers around here really babied their vehicles.I'm interested in the 2005 Tacos also because of their styling, and the decent mpg I can get from a manual 4 cyl reg. cab. The newer trucks also have good seat belts and airbags, so I'd feel safer driving around with my son. I also imagine a newer truck to be more reliable, to have lower operating costs and less expensive repairs, but I'm just not sure comparing it to a non-computerized, non-plastic workhorse like an old Chevy with a new engine...So, you see - I have a dilemma - please talk me into or out of an old Chevy or a newer Toyota and thanks!

Answer:
Get the chevy. You live in a great part of the country for them. And if you love them that much you and your son can work on it together. Make it a nice truck for him when you're done with it.Saftey is a concern but done correctly you might be able to get a shoulder harness in it. The chevy will not compare with the volvo. I have a volvo and a distributor cap costs 40. Get the chevy and preserve a piece of americana

Question : can someone help me identify this part of my brake system that leaks?
I would like to know if anyone can identify the block that the brake lines hooks onto that is mounted by the coil spring housing. the structure has some lines coming out of it. one line to master cylinder, one line to each of the two calipers. 1993 ford ranger two wheel drive. Can anyone identify this part, and if so, where would I be able to find a replacement. It is necessary, for my breaks are leaking around this area.

Answer:
I believe your talking about the proportioning valve, that might be a dealer only item but you can try a parts store, those rarely go bad, make sure it isn't one of the brake line fittings that go into the valve that's leaking.

Question : VW Bug Brake value replacement?
Hi, i have a 1969 volkswagen bug. Time to time on of my wheels looses its brake. My mechanic said that one of the values which exist between the brake line and the master pump might getting blocked and have to replace it. But the problem is i couldn't find those values since they are out of stock in my country. So what the part dealer said was to connect the line without the value. 1. What kind of a work those values does in the brake system ?2. If those are removed what is the bad side of it ?Thank you in advance.Gayan,Well there are 3 small cylinder kind thing which are connected to the master cylinder and the 3 brake lines are fixed on those 3 cylinder's other end. well as i heard they maintain the pressure in the lines.

Answer:
Valves?You mean the slave cylinders in the individual wheels, or do you mean the valves which are located INSIDE of the master cylinder.?Thre are no other valves that I know of in the lines as VW has a pretty straightforward brake systemSlave cylinders are easy to come by. Go to JCWHITNEY.COM to get them.Now if you are losing pressure in BOTH of the front tires or BOTH of the rear ones, then the suspect is the mastercylinder. Also easy to get.. same source.LASTLY>... check to see if you have a pinhole leak in the actual tubing which would allow air to be sucked back into the lines. That would also cause an individual wheel failure. Look for brake fluid residue on the lines or drops on the groundIn either case, if your mechanic says there are in-line valves, its time for a new mechanic..

Question : 2000 Ford Windstar fuse 10 blows?
My neighbor has a 2000 Ford Windstar van, the other day they mentioned the speedometer, AC, odometer, and a few other things stopped working, and the ABS light is on.After googling around a bit, I found an article that said it's usually a leaking pressure switch on the master-cylinder...so I sent them the link.http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-windstar/5390-abs-light-no-odometer-no-c-help.htmlToday, they called me and said they replaced fuse 10 (a 10-amp funny enough) and it fixed the problem for about 8-10 seconds before it blew again...so they're going to try and get a replacement switch and install it since that's probably the problem.Anyone know of websites that have (free) guides, diagrams, or pictures of what this thing looks like, how to install it, and if there are any other steps?Does the brake-fluid reservoir need to be drained to do this?Would they need to bleed the system after replacing the part?

Answer:
Guessing, the speed control cut-off switch is leaking fluid, if it is change the switch and clean out the wire harness

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