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Dorman C660100 Brake Cable
Price : $13.15
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Brake Cable
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Aimco C914248 Left-Rear Parking Brake Cable
Price : $29.74 $13.49
Features
: - Engineered and manufactured to meet original equipment fit and function specifications
- Machined to exact tolerances
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Aimco is a full line hydraulic brake supplier. Aimco products are engineered and manufactured to meet original equipment fit and function specifications.
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Dorman 695-100 OE Solutions Parking Assist Sensor
Price : $206.16 $73.40
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DORMAN 695-100 PARKING ASSIST SENSOR
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Raybestos BC93925 Parking Brake Cable
Price : $29.95 $23.96
Features
: - Designed to increase horsepower and fuel economy
- Made of high strength material
- Resists corrosion
- Withstands high impact loads at emergency conditions
- Enhance the appearance of the vehicle
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Raybestos Parking Brake Cable is designed to increase horsepower and enhance the appearance of the vehicle. It is made of high strength material which withstands high impact loads at emergency conditions. This cable is tested for strength, fit and corrosion resistance.
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Dorman C660032 Brake Cable
Price : $9.36
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Brake Cable
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Questions & Answers
Question : 10,000 Miles?
My new 06 civic just reach 10,000 miles. According to the manual I am suppose to do:1)replace engine oil2)rotate tires3)replace air filter4)replace transmission fluid5)replace spark plugs. Inspect valve clearance6).replace engine coolant7)check front and rea break wear8)check parking brake adjustment9)check the following items:-tie rod ends, sterring gear box and boots-suspension components-driveshfaft boots-break hoses and lines-all fluid levels and condition of fluids-exhaust system-fuel lines and connectionsI asked my friends and they said I'll be ripped off by the dealer if I follow the manual. The said only need to do the first 3 (oil/air filter change & tire rotation). Is it true?Thanks
Answer:
sounds way too early for items 4,5,6
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Question : automotive electronitcs????questions,anti-theft, abs, and my radio? help asap?
i have a car Equipped with Vehicle Theft Deterent System and it doesnt start?? a. my "interrupt relay may be defective.or b. my alarm system relay is faulty.????antilock brake systems. which is correct or what do i do?a. all components of the system are individually serviceable.b. do not attempt to remove or disconnect any components that do not have approved procedures in the manufacturer’s service manual.Memory seats on my dads 01 silvarado/ which is true?a. the power seat and memory seat functions can only be operated when the transmission is in the PARK position.b. when the seat is moved from its memory position, the module stores the number of pulses and direction of movement in memory. (Stepper-motor design)and my AM signal on my radio doesnt work well i get fading, weak signals why?a.weak and fading AM signals could be the result of a bad or ungrounded antenna.b.weak and fading AM signals could be the result of a misadjusted antenna trimmer
Answer:
take it to a garage and pay £70p/h labour.
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Question : 60,000 maintenance what should it cost?
Someone mechanic told me it would cost this about 400 dollars to do the maintenance on my car for the 60000 mile. What should it cost?Replace engine oil.Check parking brake adjustment.Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks.#Inspect exhaust system.#Inspect fuel lines and connections.Replace engine oil filter.Inspect front and rear brakes.Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots.Inspect suspension components.Inspect driveshaft boots.Honda Civic 2003
Answer:
Basically what you are describing is an oil change and someone looking at your car, which won't actually happen. They will look at it sitting in the parking lot and smile thinking how much they raked you over. You will be lucky if they actually change the oil and filter. Then they will charge you an outrageous additional amount added onto the already nonsensical $400 for the oil and filter, like $40 for 4 quarts and a $40 filter. Your end cost $480 + tax = $520. Then they will put a tear in your CV boot or perform some other sabotage to suck you in for more repairs. "Oh we found this when we inspected your car...This will cost $$$$. It is dangerous for you to drive like this, etc. You must have this fixed now."You can change your own oil for about $6 oil +$2 filter = $8 if you get the stuff at Walmart. Inspect your own car, it's free!
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Question : What kind of maintenance for a used car?
I bought my first car, and I feel that I should probably do some maintenance on it before I drive it heavily. The car is a 2002 Honda Civic and it only has 45,000 miles. However, I'm not sure what type of services I should request for...The Honda Service Schedule lists the following for a 40k mile maintenance:- Replace engine oil.- Rotate tires.- Inspect front and rear brakes.- Check parking brake adjustment.- Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gear box and boots.- Inspect suspension components.- Inspect driveshaft boots.- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).- Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks.- Inspect exhaust system.- Inspect fuel lines and connections.Would this be sufficient? What's an estimated price for this maintenance?Also, I noticed that whenever I accelerate above 40mph, there's a high pitched whining sound. Based on what I read, this has to do with the timing belt. Should I get that replaced?
Answer:
I bought my first car, and I feel that I should probably do some maintenance on it before I drive it heavily. The car is a 2002 Honda Civic and it only has 45,000 miles. However, I'm not sure what type of services I should request for...The Honda Service Schedule lists the following for a 40k mile maintenance:- Replace engine oil.- Rotate tires.- Inspect front and rear brakes.- Check parking brake adjustment.- Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gear box and boots.- Inspect suspension components.- Inspect driveshaft boots.- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).- Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks.- Inspect exhaust system.- Inspect fuel lines and connections.Would this be sufficient? What's an estimated price for this maintenance?Also, I noticed that whenever I accelerate above 40mph, there's a high pitched whining sound. Based on what I read, this has to do with the timing belt. Should I get that replaced?
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Question : My alternator lit on fire, what is wrong with my 1997 nissan maxima?---very hard question!!?
im driving down the road and the battery light and the parking brake light come on. The battery had 12 volts and the brake light was only half illuminated, there is one common splice for the two dummy lights behind the instrument panel that i didn't get a chance to look at. The alternator was producing 14 volts at the time. Then a day later unrelated electrical components started to freak--my auto climate control turning on unexpectedly, my dome light was very very bright, and all of my interior lights were bright. Then my headlights both blew but i was still able to drive home, retest the alternator and battery (both fine) then 2 days following i started the car and the alternator lit on fire??? the car was in excellent shape but i don't know how much money im going to have to put in it or even where to start diagnosing. I know the PCM does not control the above mentioned systems which were all run by switches and im also assuming the alternator was not the cause of its meltdown being that it was within spec ( but i really don't know for sure) PLEASE HELP ME
Answer:
From what you're telling us to me you'll need to go over all the wiring check the main thick positive wire coming off the alternator that goes to the battery or the power distribution junction box, also I believe on that vehicle you'll have two more thinner wires running from the alternator to the voltage regulating circuit which I believe is inside the main comp=PCM. Next you want to trace the negative and positive battery post wires especially the thick wiring that run to the starter and the engine block ground but be sure that you trace these wires very carefully just in case any are frayed or melted or corroded or rusted etc. I think that the internal voltage regulating circuit or it's wiring shorted out and it could of been the alternator that was the main reason for it going on fire and all the regulating issues or the lights blowing or flickering but remember a bad or intermittent or shorted out ground can cause circuits to over load or to surge etc. I've been trying to recall that vehicle and exactly where the voltage regulator is located I believe it's in the main comp but you can tell by tracing the wires coming off the alternator and usually the two small wires are the wires that are monitored and controlled by the PCM's voltage regulating circuit.I'd want to be sure that the voltage regulating system is working properly and isn't internally damaged there fore I recommend changing the wiring going to the alternator and for sure changing the PCM. I believe that the alternator put out a very impure voltage that was leaking A/C current to the whole cars electrical system and that's why the headlights blew but I'd want to trace the headlight wiring especially checking for damaged or melted wiring or bad grounds etc. Go over each of the fuse boxes under the hood and in the car be sure that the right amperage of fuses are in the correct circuits and that no fuses have blown or melted , plus remove covers or screws etc on the fuse boxes and look at their wiring, just keep in mind black spots are obvious burn signs and any brownish spots are the signs of a hot spots within any circuit or signs of where to check or look for damaged circuits or wires etc. Ideally I'd recommend not just trying to find a cheap used alternator but also trying to get the main wires that I mentioned, PCM and any fuses or relays etc you can get for spare parts, also I'd try to work out a deal with a U pick auto wreckers so I could get all the comps especially the BCM and perhaps the TCM and the cluster assembly etc.There might a parts car out there being sold privately or via a lot or a tow yard etc that you can buy for quite cheap so then you'd have many spare parts handy for the car you're trying to fix. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way one of the main reasons I suggest getting whatever comps you can find for it is bec these circuits are quite sensitive and if you can try getting free wiring info, pin chart info, colour code diagrams etc from the auto part stores so you can know what wires are what. There is a great voltage probe tester out there that tests not only positive automotive circuits but it also checks the grounds or negative circuits strengths via led lights and it only costs about 60 bucks or so or less.
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Question : My car failed its mot on the following any advice?
Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate Nearside Headlamp not in good working order adversely affecting beam image (1.2.4a) Offside Headlamp not in good working order adversely affecting beam image (1.2.4a) Offside Front position lamp(s) not in good working order (not working) (1.1.4a) Filter Fuel system component insecure (7.2.1b) Nearside Rear Tyre(s) is incorrect because different size tyres are fitted on the same axle. (4.1.A.1a) Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.8) Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9/10) Nearside Rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.4a) Offside Rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.4a) Offside Rear parking brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.7a) my girlfriend took it into kwikfit to have it tested and it failed on the above. They quoted silly money to fix it so I got a retired mechanic friend to have a look at it and he advised the following:Brake pads are pretty much new and certainly good for a while yet.He fixed the insecure fuel filter with a tie and fitted a new bulb in the front position light.The spare was the correct size so we have fitted that for the time being.He has fitted new brake shoes on the rear wheels.He has basically said that he will need to speak to the test centre about the beam image because as far as he can tell there is no problem with the lens and the foils appear to be ok. He seems to be concerned about this as he feels that the bulbs are ok and that there is no reason that this would massively deteriorate in the space of a year especially as the car has been used very little in the past year.I have checked the MOT history online and the car has never even had an advisory in the past never mind failed. Does anyone feel that KwikFit may have tried to fleece my girlfriend when they saw her come in - just passed her test and wanted to get straight on the road so took it in the first garage that could fit her in and though that she could trust a big name like kwik fit.Does anyone have any idea what the issue with the beam image could be?The mechanic seems to think that the brakes are now ok but without putting it on an efficiency machine I suppose that there is no way of knowingPeugeot 106 2000 independence 1.1 Any advice would be greatly appreciated.kwikfit quoted £500 to resolve all the above.
Answer:
Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate Nearside Headlamp not in good working order adversely affecting beam image (1.2.4a) Offside Headlamp not in good working order adversely affecting beam image (1.2.4a) Offside Front position lamp(s) not in good working order (not working) (1.1.4a) Filter Fuel system component insecure (7.2.1b) Nearside Rear Tyre(s) is incorrect because different size tyres are fitted on the same axle. (4.1.A.1a) Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.8) Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9/10) Nearside Rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.4a) Offside Rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.4a) Offside Rear parking brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.7a) my girlfriend took it into kwikfit to have it tested and it failed on the above. They quoted silly money to fix it so I got a retired mechanic friend to have a look at it and he advised the following:Brake pads are pretty much new and certainly good for a while yet.He fixed the insecure fuel filter with a tie and fitted a new bulb in the front position light.The spare was the correct size so we have fitted that for the time being.He has fitted new brake shoes on the rear wheels.He has basically said that he will need to speak to the test centre about the beam image because as far as he can tell there is no problem with the lens and the foils appear to be ok. He seems to be concerned about this as he feels that the bulbs are ok and that there is no reason that this would massively deteriorate in the space of a year especially as the car has been used very little in the past year.I have checked the MOT history online and the car has never even had an advisory in the past never mind failed. Does anyone feel that KwikFit may have tried to fleece my girlfriend when they saw her come in - just passed her test and wanted to get straight on the road so took it in the first garage that could fit her in and though that she could trust a big name like kwik fit.Does anyone have any idea what the issue with the beam image could be?The mechanic seems to think that the brakes are now ok but without putting it on an efficiency machine I suppose that there is no way of knowingPeugeot 106 2000 independence 1.1 Any advice would be greatly appreciated.kwikfit quoted £500 to resolve all the above.
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