Mr. Gasket 6411G Air Cleaner Adapter Ring and Riser Kit - Gaskets

Adapts 5-1/8" neck (4 or 2 bbl carb) air cleaners to 3" and 2- 5/8" 2 barrel carbuertor necks
Two air cleaner risers offer three height adjustments
Helps clear throttle or transmission linkage
Eliminates air cleaner fit problems
High-impact, heat resistant material for durability

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

Mr. Gasket Air Cleaner Adapter and Riser Kit is a four piece kit which includes two air cleaner adapters to adapt 5-1/8" neck (4 or 2 bbl carb) air cleaners to 3" and 2-5/8" 2 barrel carbuertor necks. It also includes two air cleaner risers that combine for three height adjustments, 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" to help space air cleaner upward to clear throttle or transmissiobn linkage. They end air cleaner fit problems when you change carburetors with air cleaner adapter ring. This adapter is molded from a high-impact, heat resistant material for durability.

Customer Review :

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Mr. Gasket 9341 Air Cleaner Riser
Price : $8.99 $7.95
Features :

Additional clearance for custom linkage
Fits 2 or 4 barrel and carburetors with 5-1/8" diameter inlet
High impact plastic for precise fit
Provides strength and durability
Handles fuel lines or electric chokes

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

Mr. Gasket Air Cleaner Riser allows additional clearance between the carburetor and air cleaner for custom linkage, competition carburetor return spring kits and modified, larger-than-stock fuel lines or electric chokes. Air cleaner risers are designed to fit 2 or 4 barrel and throttle body fuel-injected carburetors with 5-1/8" diameter inlet. Made from high impact plastic for precise fit, strength, and durability. This high performance factory and aftermarket air cleane riser is 5-1/8" neck x 1/2" tall.

Customer Review :

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Mr. Gasket 5326 Clear Aluminum Custom Air Cleaner Nut
Price : $6.09 $4.65
Features :

Designed to provide excellent grip for the air cleaner
Made from billet aluminum
Backed by a limited warranty
Corrosion resistant
Easy to use

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

Mr. Gasket Clear Aluminum Custom Air Cleaner Nuts are designed to provide excellent grip for the air cleaner. They are made from billet aluminum which ensures extreme durability. These nuts are backed by a limited warranty and are corrosion resistant.

Customer Review :

No review yet

Mr. Gasket 6398 Wing Style Air Cleaner Nut
Price : $3.56
Features :

Designed to enhance the performance of the air cleaners
Chrome plated
Highly durable
Easy to use
Backed by a limited warranty

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Mr. Gasket Wing Style Air Cleaner Nuts are designed to enhance the performance of the air cleaners. They are chrome plated and are highly durable. These nuts are easy to use and are backed by a limited warranty.

Customer Review :

Perfect fit ....

This "Wing Style" air cleaner nut is the perfect fit for my "50's" style carburetor setup. It actually matches the original equipment ...... I'm very pleased with the results.

Rating :

Milton 1160 Mini Regulator Mounting Bracket
Price : $5.66

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

Milton 1160 Mini Regulator Mounting Bracket - -

Customer Review :

No review yet

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Questions & Answers

Question : trouble with 2000 ford contour se bi-fuel, again...?
The car runs like crap now. it is backfiring again, surges a lot and runs clunky. i get 2 error codes.P1121 - TPS A inconsistent with MAF/MAP sensor.P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected.The mechanic i brought it into says the o-ring for the airbox may be leaking and i could use a new one. honest guy, i trust his opinion. does anyone know where i can get this part or a kit of some sort with these parts available? Does any one have an idea what this problem may be?WORK DONE:----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------replaced alternatorreplaced spark plugsreplaced engine mountchanged oilfuel filternew tpscleaned IAC and MAFsmoothed o-ring seat on airbox and packed in electric tape to add a tighter seal.replaced vacuum hose.pressure washed down everything under the hood.tightened down air box, clamps, hoses, engine gasket cover etc...---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------------any help is appreciated. thank you.please guys, some help any help. I wont bite...thank you pvphelp for the response, we checked those and they seem to be ok. it must be something else.still need help here. its not working.anyone...any help please...

Answer:
sound like plugs wire are not in correct firing order, first thing you need to do are check distributor cap firing order to the plugs firing order make sure they are match and let me know if it work if not we can start from here.

Question : HELP PLEASE!! URGENT!! HELP HELP!! Nissan car going crazy!!?
HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 (VG30E)Please can someone tell me whats wrong with my car? I took the car to a mechanic to change the valve cover gaskets (both), clean the fuel injectors (the intake manifold was removed to reach the back 3 injectors), and the timing belt.The symptoms my car is having are the next:1. In cold start, when I turn on the engine, the revs start to hesitate and after about 4 seconds they are in normal idle speed (750 rpm).2. When I accelerate normally and then take my foot OFF the gas pedal (in 2nd gear, and sometimes still in 1rst gear), the REVs start to "OSCILLATE" from 1,000 rpm to almost 400 rpm! When the REVs come near 400 REVs, the car SHAKES and vibrates for about a second and a half, meaning that the car may stall! The oscilations are: 1000-400-1000-400-750 rpms. After that, the car starts to idle at normal idle speed, 750rpm.Im thinking that the reason may be: a. Bad installation of the gaskets. Vaccum leak. Air is entering or leaving the intake manifold because of a bad gasket installation? I asked the mechanic: "Hey, what about the intake manifold gasket? Did you replaced it with a NEW one?" and he said it was NOT necessary since the gasket was a "metallic gasket" and it can be used AGAIN. Is that OK to do? Ive been told that everytime you seperate 2 metallic components, you should put on a NEW gasket! b. Bad timing. He replaced the timing belt. I asked him about if he syncronized the distributor with the camshaft and the crankshaft (by looking at the timing marks in the belt and the sprockets), and he said "if it was not syncronized, the valves in your engine wee to hit the pistons". I know THAT may happen if timing is wrong, but BUT what if the piston is NOT reaching the TDC and the spark is starting before the REAL TDC? My car is lacking some power. I replaced the 02 sensor. Replaced the air filter. The filter it had before was SMALLER, so some dirt and dust was getting into the engine! This affects the engines life! Dont know WHY it had a smaller airfilter! The car was crashed and maybe the reapir guy put he WRONG filter. Replaced the fuel filter. Repalced spark plug wires. SEIWA. The stock wires were SEIWA too. The Injectors were cleaned, and tested and came out OK. Replaced spark plugs. First the car was runnning with brand new NGK spark plugs, and after I told the mechanic the car was lacking power EVEN AFTER all the replacement were done to the car, he said: 1rst. The NGK spark plugs are OK. 2nd. After couple weeks, the car stil was lacking power, then he said the NGK spark plugs were wroong, he replaced them with Denso. The car is still lacking power! and the MPG is nasty! I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION: There is a BOLT that is connected to the distributor (not inside the distributor) and near the power transistor (its not the power transistor mounting bolt). A mechanic once told me that THIS BOLT is a sort of "adjustment bolt". According to the position (left or right) of the bolt, that would be the ANGLE of the ignition, im guessing maybe the TDC angle? In spanish they call it "ojo chino" since it looks like a chineese eye! Is a sort of "oval washer connected to a part in the distributor". So, what Im getting to is that BEFORE the timing belt was replaced, THAT BOLT was in the middle of that "oval washer". and AFTER the timing belt was replaced, the bolt is all the way to the right! I took some photos before I took the car to the mechanic to make some BEFORE-AFTER comparisons after replacement of parts. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT BOLT IM TALKING ABOUT?So my concern is:LACK OF POWER. Feeling some small vibration coming from the gas pedal everytime I push on it. Feeling like its running rough. After driving this car for over 3 years now, I KNOW THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG with the engine power! I remember a couple years before, when I accelerated ALL THE WAY, all the pedal to the floor, the car WAS REALLY STRONG AND FAST (i know its a minivan), but it has the same engine as the pathfinder, so it should be strong. Now I accelerate, and the ratio REVs/acceleration is not really the same as before. The revs go UP, but the car moves slower than before!BAD MPG! The car is doing about 13-15 mpg in city!!OSCILLATIONS in the REVs as described before.What if the timing belt was installed incorrectly? What if its not syncronized the way it should be with the distributor and TDC piston?

Answer:
HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 (VG30E)Please can someone tell me whats wrong with my car? I took the car to a mechanic to change the valve cover gaskets (both), clean the fuel injectors (the intake manifold was removed to reach the back 3 injectors), and the timing belt.The symptoms my car is having are the next:1. In cold start, when I turn on the engine, the revs start to hesitate and after about 4 seconds they are in normal idle speed (750 rpm).2. When I accelerate normally and then take my foot OFF the gas pedal (in 2nd gear, and sometimes still in 1rst gear), the REVs start to "OSCILLATE" from 1,000 rpm to almost 400 rpm! When the REVs come near 400 REVs, the car SHAKES and vibrates for about a second and a half, meaning that the car may stall! The oscilations are: 1000-400-1000-400-750 rpms. After that, the car starts to idle at normal idle speed, 750rpm.Im thinking that the reason may be: a. Bad installation of the gaskets. Vaccum leak. Air is entering or leaving the intake manifold because of a bad gasket installation? I asked the mechanic: "Hey, what about the intake manifold gasket? Did you replaced it with a NEW one?" and he said it was NOT necessary since the gasket was a "metallic gasket" and it can be used AGAIN. Is that OK to do? Ive been told that everytime you seperate 2 metallic components, you should put on a NEW gasket! b. Bad timing. He replaced the timing belt. I asked him about if he syncronized the distributor with the camshaft and the crankshaft (by looking at the timing marks in the belt and the sprockets), and he said "if it was not syncronized, the valves in your engine wee to hit the pistons". I know THAT may happen if timing is wrong, but BUT what if the piston is NOT reaching the TDC and the spark is starting before the REAL TDC? My car is lacking some power. I replaced the 02 sensor. Replaced the air filter. The filter it had before was SMALLER, so some dirt and dust was getting into the engine! This affects the engines life! Dont know WHY it had a smaller airfilter! The car was crashed and maybe the reapir guy put he WRONG filter. Replaced the fuel filter. Repalced spark plug wires. SEIWA. The stock wires were SEIWA too. The Injectors were cleaned, and tested and came out OK. Replaced spark plugs. First the car was runnning with brand new NGK spark plugs, and after I told the mechanic the car was lacking power EVEN AFTER all the replacement were done to the car, he said: 1rst. The NGK spark plugs are OK. 2nd. After couple weeks, the car stil was lacking power, then he said the NGK spark plugs were wroong, he replaced them with Denso. The car is still lacking power! and the MPG is nasty! I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION: There is a BOLT that is connected to the distributor (not inside the distributor) and near the power transistor (its not the power transistor mounting bolt). A mechanic once told me that THIS BOLT is a sort of "adjustment bolt". According to the position (left or right) of the bolt, that would be the ANGLE of the ignition, im guessing maybe the TDC angle? In spanish they call it "ojo chino" since it looks like a chineese eye! Is a sort of "oval washer connected to a part in the distributor". So, what Im getting to is that BEFORE the timing belt was replaced, THAT BOLT was in the middle of that "oval washer". and AFTER the timing belt was replaced, the bolt is all the way to the right! I took some photos before I took the car to the mechanic to make some BEFORE-AFTER comparisons after replacement of parts. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT BOLT IM TALKING ABOUT?So my concern is:LACK OF POWER. Feeling some small vibration coming from the gas pedal everytime I push on it. Feeling like its running rough. After driving this car for over 3 years now, I KNOW THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG with the engine power! I remember a couple years before, when I accelerated ALL THE WAY, all the pedal to the floor, the car WAS REALLY STRONG AND FAST (i know its a minivan), but it has the same engine as the pathfinder, so it should be strong. Now I accelerate, and the ratio REVs/acceleration is not really the same as before. The revs go UP, but the car moves slower than before!BAD MPG! The car is doing about 13-15 mpg in city!!OSCILLATIONS in the REVs as described before.What if the timing belt was installed incorrectly? What if its not syncronized the way it should be with the distributor and TDC piston?

Question : 1994 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L V4 Rough idle in park and reverse?
Please only answer if you can help. I know a descent amount about vehicle mechanics, but this one stumps me. I have the car specified above, and the idle is very rough in park, ok in neutral, and even more rough in reverse. It is so bad that it shakes the whole dash and steering wheel. It also idles rough in drive with the brake depressed. On a slow take off the car seems to have a jumpy acceleration to about 10 mph and then everything is fine. The car shifts through the gears perfectly while driving so I don't think its a tranny problem.Things I have done:- Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor- Replaced fuel filter, air filter, and pcv valve/hose/grommet- Oil change- Added fuel injector cleaner- Replaced valve cover/rocker arm cover gasket- New accessory belt and timing beltCheck engine light is not on and everything else in the car works perfectly. Should I check my engine mounts and what should I look for? Should I check my ignitor which is inside the distributor cap and if so what should I look for? I haven't checked all of my hoses and lines but it is hard to beleive that just a vaccuum line could cause this big of a problem.This is my secondary vehicle so of course I'm not wanting to spend an arm and a leg.I also checked the Intake Air Control doing what the manual said to do and it is in good working condition. So that isn't the problem either. Thanks.

Answer:
I would inspect and replace your motor and transmission mounts. It could be just that simple. Good luck.

Question : 12.5hp kawasaki on John Deere RX95 surges/hunts?
After about 5-10 minutes of mowing, the engine starts to surge or hunt. I have removed carb, cleaned and replaced mounting gaskets. New fuel with ethanol fighter additive, new plug gapped at .035, new air & fuel filter. I honestly believe it has something to do with the choke or fuel shutoff solenoid since if I find just the right spot I can get it run okay. But this is just past full throttle into the choke region on the throttle lever mount. It does loose alittle rpm in that range but it wont surge. I just have to play with it to find it. How do i go about setting the throttle or is it in that stinking fuel shutoff solenoid? I wish i could disconnect it, but obviously the engine wont run. Its a great little mower and engine, but when this happens, it will almost slow down to idle.gas cap checked, venting as designed, carb removed and cleaned, checked float when apart, but where is the governor so i can clean it. and what do you mean " the fuel valve needs opened a bit." How do I do that?

Answer:
check the gas cap. there is a tiny hole in it to allow air into the tank as gas is leaving the tank. if that hole is plugged it will create a vacuum not allowing proper gas flow.

Question : Ford / Mercury 3.8 liter Hesitation just off idle?
I’ve got a 1993 Mercury Cougar with the 3.8 liter engine that has a slight hesitation about 25% of the time when starting from a stop. Other than that the engine seems to be running fine. No check engine light or other obvious symptoms. The mass airflow sensor (MAF) and the idle air control (IAC) were both replaced within the last year in an attempt to get a better idle that ended up being due to bad motor mounts, but none the less, both are either new or rebuilt now. The head gaskets were done about 1.5 years ago and the fuel injectors were professionally cleaned / reconditioned at that time. The fuel pump and filter have also been replaced within the last 1.5 years / 12,000 miles. The off idle hesitation has only been there for the last 6 months or so (kind of hard to be sure since my daughter doesn’t exactly keep me informed of the car’s health). I’m leaning toward an issue with the MAF, but want to get some other inputs before going out and getting another one…Thanks

Answer:
You are looking in the right place, but need to go a bit further. Most people don't realize that the butterfly in the throttle body tends to get dirty. There is an idle air bleed built into it. When dirt and filter material start closing this bleed down, the computer will compensate to a large degree. At some point, the computer will cause that hesitation as soon as you open the butterfly enough to take off because all of a sudeden the parameters have changed. It takes a second for the computer to adjust.This is actually very easy to fix. Never use carburator cleaner or similar fluids to clean this. Only use a throttle body cleaner, otherwise you can damage your throttle body or intake. Take the housing or hose that attaches to the throttle body and examine the butterfly, in most cases it will be black, and sometimes you can see a ring of buildup around it. Using the throttle body cleaner and wiping the surfaces of the butterfly and bore until they are clean can fix this problem.Outside of that I would look for small leaks in any of the vacuum lines, or hoses. Even small pinhole leaks can cause problems.Hope this helps.

Question : Is this a good one for Hotrod?
is this a good motor tto put it on ?and how much hp would this GTO 400 V8 6.6 L (1969 i guess) motor have if i install these things? aprox! * Polished Edelbrock P-65 dual quad intake * Edelbrock dual quad fuel line kit * Dual quad progressive linkage kit * Intake manifold gasket kit * Intake manifold bolts * Performer-Plus cam kit #ED2157 - .420"/.442" Lift, 204, 214,110 * 1 Thunder series AVS 500 cfm carb. with electric choke * 1 Thunder series AVS 500 cfm carb. with manual choke * 2 carb stud & nut mounting packages * Edelbrock chrome dual quad air cleaner assembly with K&N™ air filter * Flowmaster Headers * Rocker armsAnd thats all....o and another question how much would it do aprox in 0-60 mile?or in a 1/4 mile?Thank you....

Answer:
You can throw a lot of parts at an engine, or you can build it for what you want it to do for you. I would find a competent, Pontiac experienced machine/speed shop in your area and begin working up a relationship with them. Their advice will be invaluable.

Question : Briggs & Stratton model 125K05-0659-E1 issues?
I recently inherited a Craftsman model 917.370730 rear drive self propelled lawnmower with a Briggs 125K05-0659-E1 engine. I received the mower missing parts, so I got onto a briggs site and identified the parts I needed. After reassembling the air cleaner assembly, I started the mower. ((I had already changed the oil, cleaned the gas tank, replaced the fuel filter and fuel line.)) I used a small burst of starting fluid, and the motor started right up, running for approximately fifteen seconds before dying out. I looked at the engine by the air cleaner assembly to find gasoline leaking onto the mower deck. I disassembled the air cleaner housing and pulled the carburetor off, then cleaned it thoroughly, and purchased a gasket kit for it and the air cleaner housing assembly. I reassembled the motor and started it again, but this time, after starting, it stayed running only about fifteen seconds, however there was no more gas leak. I re-started it several times, and it would kick over and want to run, but then stop. It's obviously fuel starved, and upon opening the air cleaner assembly, I found the air filter soaked in gasoline. I know the carburetor and the assembly are put together correctly. The mounting bracket for the air cleaner has a metal 'arm' that comes up to in front of the carburetor opening, but nothing else, and after going to Sears and tearing apart a model that was nearly identical, it looks the same way. Any suggestions as to what might be causing this?As some additional information, I have already replaced the primer bulb/assembly, as well as having attempted to run with the air filter out, and neither have seemed to illuminate the cause of the problem.

Answer:
Try running without filter (as a trial run) Gas soaked filter tells me you have blow back or a flooding condition

Question : Craftsman weed trimmer problems starts and idles but will not run.?
I have a couple Craftsman weed trimmers. Model # 358-795800. They use Walboro carb WT 628. I have rebuilt the carbs and they both start and idle fine but die when I try to take the choke off. I have replaced:Carb kitsScreen in carbsPrimer bulbFuel filtersFuel linesCarb mounting gasket. Pulse channel hole is lined up. Cleaned carbs and blown out all orifices with compressed air. It starts easily and idles fine. If I give it gas when the choke is on there is no reaction. When I open the choke it dies. I can open and close the choke lever quickly and the engine accelerates like I am giving it gas. But if i leave it open it dies. I close the choke again and it fires right up and idles fine. I have double checked the needle and seat for debris. I have the diaphragm mounted to the carb body then the gasket and 4 screw cover. I have the the check valve wafer mounted to the carb body then the gasket and one screw cover. Any suggestions? Both carbs do the same thing. The only thing I have not done is remove the Welch plug since one did not come with the rebuild kit. Since that is related to idling not sure that would be any problem. Any advice?How do I check for leaky crank seals? I pulled the plug and the compression seems good. Pulled the carb and plugged the hole with my thumb but there is very little suction due to speed of manually turning it over? ?If it was leaky seals why would it accelrate if I move the choke lever back and forth? Seems like it should just die. Any ideas ?

Answer:
I have a couple Craftsman weed trimmers. Model # 358-795800. They use Walboro carb WT 628. I have rebuilt the carbs and they both start and idle fine but die when I try to take the choke off. I have replaced:Carb kitsScreen in carbsPrimer bulbFuel filtersFuel linesCarb mounting gasket. Pulse channel hole is lined up. Cleaned carbs and blown out all orifices with compressed air. It starts easily and idles fine. If I give it gas when the choke is on there is no reaction. When I open the choke it dies. I can open and close the choke lever quickly and the engine accelerates like I am giving it gas. But if i leave it open it dies. I close the choke again and it fires right up and idles fine. I have double checked the needle and seat for debris. I have the diaphragm mounted to the carb body then the gasket and 4 screw cover. I have the the check valve wafer mounted to the carb body then the gasket and one screw cover. Any suggestions? Both carbs do the same thing. The only thing I have not done is remove the Welch plug since one did not come with the rebuild kit. Since that is related to idling not sure that would be any problem. Any advice?How do I check for leaky crank seals? I pulled the plug and the compression seems good. Pulled the carb and plugged the hole with my thumb but there is very little suction due to speed of manually turning it over? ?If it was leaky seals why would it accelrate if I move the choke lever back and forth? Seems like it should just die. Any ideas ?

Question : Is the pontiac 1968 able to?
I have that motor its a 5.7L V8 350 and i put some work in it ...will this make it run from 0-60 miles in 7 sec?i am installing this: * Rocker arms * Polished Edelbrock P-65 dual quad intake * Edelbrock dual quad fuel line kit * Dual quad progressive linkage kit * Intake manifold gasket kit * Intake manifold bolts * Performer-Plus cam kit #ED2157 - .420"/.442" Lift, 204, 214,110(idel - 5500) * 1 Thunder series AVS 500 cfm carb. with electric choke * 1 Thunder series AVS 500 cfm carb. with manual choke * 2 carb stud & nut mounting packages * Edelbrock chrome dual quad air cleaner assembly with K&N™ air filterEvery thing is edelbrock and everything is new!

Answer:
I don't know about all that duel quad stuff, I run a single Q-jet on my RPM intake and a complete Comp Cams valve train kit. The Cams Edelbrock offers are not radical, specs on my hydraulic magnum cam is 510/525 lift dur@.50 is 245/252.You'll need to tell me the cylinder heads you have or plan to use, you'll need flow work done, plus raise your compression to about 10.1CR. for starters.

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