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Mr. Gasket 6120 Pro Degree Wheel
Price : $62.95 $31.99
Features
: - Wheel dimension measures 11"
- Made of aluminum with a white anodized finish with black numbers
- Reads the same as the camshaft spec card
- Precision degreed for accurate readings
- Fits many blowers
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Editorial Review :
This wheel has an 11" diameter, is made of aluminum, and has color-coded scales and exhaust and intake centerline areas for instant readouts. The universal design uses the harmonic-balancer bolt to mount on the engine and is also designed to work well on any engine equipped with a roots-style supercharger. It reads the same as the camshaft spec card and fits many blowers.
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Mr. Gasket 4405 Big Block Cam Change Kit
Price : $47.95 $30.19
Features
: - Designed to deliver the required pieces needed to swap bumper-sticks
- Includes gaskets for the valve covers, intake manifold, oil pan, water pump, timing-chain cover
- Highly durable
- Easy to install
- Weatherproof
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Editorial Review :
Mr. Gasket Big Block Cam Change Kits are designed to provide the required pieces needed to swap bumper-sticks. They include gaskets for the valve covers, intake manifold, oil pan, water pump, timing-chain cover. These kits facilitate easy and quick installation.
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Fel-Pro CK4000 Cam Change Gasket Kit
Price : $21.12
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Fel-Pro CK4000 Cam Change Gasket Kit
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Mr. Gasket 4400 Cam Change Gasket Kit
Price : $39.09 $19.99
Features
: - Meets environmental performance standards
- Comes with all gaskets needed
- Fuel injector O ring is also not included
- Sold as a set
- Tailored to deliver just the pieces you need when you swap bump-sticks
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Editorial Review :
Mr. Gasket Cam-Change Gasket Kit is tailored to deliver the pieces you need to make the job easier: two valve cover gaskets, intake gasket set, oil pan gasket set, water pump gasket set, water neck gasket, timing chain cover gasket, distributor gasket, fuel pump gasket and a timing cover seal.
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Mr. Gasket 4403 Small Block Cam Change Kit
Price : $39.79 $25.40
Features
: - Designed to deliver the required pieces needed to swap bumper-sticks
- Includes gaskets for the valve covers, intake manifold, oil pan, water pump, timing-chain cover
- Highly durable
- Easy to install
- Weatherproof
Average
Customer Rating : Not
yet rated |
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Editorial Review :
Mr. Gasket Small Block Cam Change Kits include gaskets for valve covers, intake manifold, oil pan, water pump, timing-chain cover . They are designed to provide the required pieces needed to swap bumper-sticks. These kits facilitate easy and quick installation.
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Questions & Answers
Question : Why is there only compression in # 3 cylinder?
2000 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4 ltr DOHCReplaced Water Pump, timing chain, intake & exhaust cam sprockets, crank sprocket, tentioner, chain guides, harmonic balancer. Changed all extra parts when water pump went out. Did not overheat. Put car back together, ran fine for two years. Only thing was the serpentine belt broke three times. I started to get into working on it. Turns out the sprocket on the crank shaft was installed backwards. I turned it around and set all three sprockets to time & TDC. Put car back together again. Attempted to start car, turns over but does not start. Checked compression, # 3 cylinder has 80 psi, #1, # 4, # 2 did not register on gauge. I can feel pressure with my finger but it does not register on gauge. I retested three times. Same results every time. Pistons are moving up and down in all 4 cylinders. When I was cranking the engine, there was no noises out of the ordinary, no pop, bangs, metal slapping or hitting, no grinding. What is going on??? Don't really want to tear apart the entire motor. I know it is not the heads or head gaskets as the car never overheated, just got warm, pulled over, found water leaking from water pump. Did not drive again until repair were done. Ran good for two years with exception of the serpentine belt breaking because harmonic balancer was up against chain cover, so it was not aligned properly. That part is now fixed. Any suggestions????Thanks for all your answers. This is great. Did not expect so many replies. I did turn the crank 360 degrees thinking it was out of time as one of you said. That did not change anything. There is no knocking when I crank the engine, either manually or with the key. It just cranks.
Answer:
The intriguing thing is that you got it working after similar work before, so you aren't making a rookie mistake... but it must be something that will make you say "D'oh!"At this stage I would remove the valve cover (if it is on) and watch what the valves do on one cylinder at a time. From the sequence of events it almost has to be timing and it should be pretty obvious as you watch it work. From what I can gather the engine is an interference design but I would think if the valves crashed you would have noticed.
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Question : 1998 Rover 420 gsi (2.0 twin cam 16v) cam belt timing?
I have just changed the head gasket on this car. However the timing moved as i was reassembling the engine. I cannot find a timing mark on the bottom pulley. Is there an easy way to set the cam timing back up. I cannot remove the bottom pulley as I can't get to the bolt. Please help.Wade, thank you for your suggestion, unfortunately your solution is for ignition timing rather than the cam timing I need.
Answer:
You need a good shop manual for your car. In the USA we have online repair information and good local library Chiltons and Motors manuals.http://www.google.com/search?q=rover+cam+belt+timing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla: en-US:official&client=firefox-ahttp://eautorepair.net/default.asphttp://www.alldata.com/products/diy /http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=200710180931 23AA42une&r=w&pa=FZptHWf.BGRX3OFMiDZSUsW35XM.FjvIS3WfE5COsyoBc.PUGA--&paid=answeredhttp://www.haynes .com/linkshttp://www.chiltondiy.com/pub/mkt/description.aspx
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Question : does anyone know how to set the timing on a 1994 c220 mercedes petrol engine?
My friend did the head gasket on my merc only thing is has variable valve timing and he didnt mark the cams right,we set it once and it ran fine until i gave it some revs witch changes the timing and with the timer not set right it quite running and now wont start,HELP
Answer:
go buy your self a chilton book and it will tell you how to do everything on your car
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Question : 1967 Chevy II Nova w/ 327 small block and mild cam. Engine is pulled, I want more power, affordably.?
I pulled the engine to detail the engine compartment. I added a new clutch, changed some gaskets, just the basics. I have a set of short headers that work fine. Is there anything semi affordable I can do at this stage to add a little more horse power? I am currently pushing about 325 HP. I am running a really nice Holley 650 DP carb right now and really don't want to buy a new one.Thanks for all your help! My e-mail is d_kurber@yahoo.com if you prefer to email me directly.
Answer:
Heads, heads, heads, let me say it again heads. Next compression, then cam Your carb will be fine up to 475-500 HP, so no worry there. If you have $1,000 to spend then look at the brodix IK180cc, 64cc heads. This will give you a 40-70 HP gain (depending on what heads you have now) If thats alittle too much, then look at the 1996-00 chevy 350 vortec heads, 62cc.. Those will give you about 20-25 HP less gain than the brodix IK's You want 10.00 to 10.4:1 compression.. Then with that compression run a cam with 228/238* @ .050, and a 106 or 108 LSA
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Question : DODGE MAN!! 91 Lebaron 3.0 replaced blown head gaskets tries 2 run slight backfire 2 marks on crank ?1 2?
I did this taking my time,surfaced heads, best gasket set from dodge.Now I have it together and it acts like its out of time. I have checked cams position distributor countless times, no change.then I noticed another mark on the crank pulley but it is not in alignment with the guide pin in crank that passes through pulleys. I need answers fast!! my mail is same as my user name at yall no whoo.I'm no dummy and have been in the automotive field all my life. Yes I have checked the Haynes manual I got 4 it, there is no mention of a second timing mark on crank pulley.Engine is trying to start but as I said acts like its slightly out of time. And yes I have checked to see that it is getting spark @ the coil & at the plugs. And it is getting fuel.
Answer:
Did you buy a Haynes Manual? Haynes is the best manual for getting it right. I will admit, though, I hate MOPAR engines. In 1999 I promised my self I'd never do another KCar engine swap. Now I want one to race at our local dirt track.
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Question : 1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
Had an oil leak with valve cover and distributor adaptor (front cam). I have changed out the o-ring and 2 seals, valve cover gasket and plug, I marked the cam to head, distributor to adaptor, and rotor button to distributor before removing anything. I marked the spark plug wires to rotor cap. When replacing the camshaft gear the timing belt was moved. When I lined all my marks back up and torqued everything down, the engine will not crank. It turns over but does not engage. I have fire coming form coil wire. My brother -in - law came over and helped me turn the engine to top dead center and we placed the rotor button at firing order #1 plug. Still engine will turn over but will not engage (crank). My question is. How would I go about resetting both front and rear cams with engine set to top dead center. I believe when my ex was putting the timing belt back on, the rear camshaft was turned. So I need to get the engine back to top dead center and make sure the front and rear camshaft gears are in time as well. Please help. Cannot make heads or tails from my Haynes with this problem
Answer:
try this web site they have a pic and a diagram of that engine for the timing specs,good luck, http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487&go=techTIPTimeBelt
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Question : 2003 polaris predator 500 cams?
I changed the head gasket and now I need to set the cams in the right way. If you know how to do that please tell me how to do that and what do the little marks on the gears mean?
Answer:
I changed the head gasket and now I need to set the cams in the right way. If you know how to do that please tell me how to do that and what do the little marks on the gears mean?
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Question : What to do about my 1988 4runner 22re?
So as I was driving to school yesterday my car died in the middle on the side of the road at a light. I thought it was the alternator so I brought it to a shop to have it looked at. They looked and said the charging system was putting out 14volts so it was fine, just the battery needed changed along with the terminals which were old and corroded. In addition to this problem there has been a lot of coolant lost every day, I have to fill it up at least once maybe twice in a day and I only drive about 30 miles a day, which brings me to the next problem. The radiator has a leak in the top which a little water will bubble out of, but not all the time, also around the radiator overflow bottle it will steam pretty profusely if I drive it for any longer than 5 minutes. I drove it like this for a week before I got it into the shop. I thought it was just running way too hot and the steam was the coolant evaporating. So I bring it to the shop for the charging issue and they look at the radiator and say it is basically hanging in the engine with no straps on it and the hoses look a little soft. So what they had told me was a new radiator and battery+terminals, expensive but I was willing to spend around $500 to get it back running good. So I call back and tell them to do all the work and order the parts, thinking this will fix it. The next morning they call and say they did a test on it and it failed the head gasket test because there is exhaust gases in the cooling system. The truck has 250,000 miles on it but 2 years ago the engine was pulled and had the following work done: bore and hone block(.020), grind crank, resize rods, install pin bushings and size to fit, custom clean block, rebuild rocker assembly grind valves, adjust valves, assemble to complete longblock. In addition new pisons, rings, rod and main bearings, pin bushings, timing cover, oil pump, 260RV cam, HD. timing set, valve lash adjuster pins, and a FULL GASKET SET including head gasket. So now two years later they say the head gasket is blown, but to add to it they said that I shouldn't just have the head gasket done but they want me to buy a whole new engine, I said no way. So my question is what should I do to be able to keep driving this car. I think that replacing the head gasket would do it because of all the previous work done, the engine should not be at the end of its life, it is a 22re and these are supposed to run forever, even without the rebuild. I have over $3,000 of receipts in the past two years from me and the previous owner maintaining it so I am not ready to count my losses and part it out. What do you suggest my next plan of action should be given that it is a bad head gasket?
Answer:
The head gasket may or may not solve your problem, if you were driving long enough with an overheating engine, it could have done more damage, which is probably why they suggested a new engine. What you propose is a risk too, since the overheating may have warped the head...it really is your choice, but it is definitely a risk.
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Question : How do I reinstall rockers on 98 Dodge 5.9 360?
I followed instructions straight out of my Haynes manual. Not really much help I am affraid. My V8 mark is gone do to excessive rust.Here is what was done so far.1. Pulled off heads. Stripped off rockers, springs and Valves. Cleaned and replaced with new head gaskets, ARP bolts and proper torque seq. No leaks. Put plenum back down with new plen pan gasket and intake and proper torque. Changed all fuel injector orings and lubed to insure no tearing first. Changed Valve stem seals, put original valves back in( cleaned varnish with plastic ez strip wheel to insure no damage scratches) , springs, push rods and rockers all back in their original location with plenty of engine assembly lube. 2. I set the dist back down with the # 1 cylinder and TDC and the rotor lined up with #1 on the cam sensor plate. I had lost my original mark for the dist body but, because timing is not adjustable this should not matter.This a completely stock engine with 140,000 on it. I have been using Mobile 1 all it's life and inside pretty clean zero sludge. So question # 1 Do I need to resynch the dist with the injectors now. If so how do I go about this ?#2When I put the rockers back down I started at #1 cyclinder and about 1 1/2 inches past TDC mark on dampner as my factory stamping is no longer. All rockers torqued to 16 ftlb per Haynes manual. So my question is after doing #1 cylinder rockers what is next. Do I follow firing order 1.8 and so on. If so where should I be on the dampner ( number/ degree to turn ) . Also I am aware that these are supposed to be non adjustable so to say ( Haynes ) that you just bolt them down with proper torque spec and wait five minutes I think I was misled there ? Issues : My top end is making all kinds of noise. Not your normal ticking either. My fear and thought is that I do not have proper piston to valve clearance on the rest of the cylinders. I am not a mechanic, I just play one in my back yard like most of us. I am affraid I got a little over confident with this repair and if I don't get this thing back to my 17 year old daughter my wife is gonna scalp me for sure. Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
First The timing is adjustable at the distributor, as you mentioned resynch, This is done by turning the distributor, catch is you must have a chrysler drb3 to do it correctly, You dont have to remove the dist to do a head job, If the timing is off you will get some top end noise sounds like something loose and rattling but it could be the rockers if they are not tight enough, but all you have to do is tighten them as there is no adjustment on them You need to have the engine timing synched correctly None of the valves hit the pistons if the engine is in time at the timing chain you have nothing to worry about there for sure
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Question : Need an old-school opinion about a 350 head swap and cam installation.?
I have an original 1977 350 with 70,000 miles on it. I have a water leak in the #6 cylinder since replacing the radiator last week. I have a couple sets of gaskets on hand and the original engine on a stand now. I am not financially ready to rebuild either engine yet. I want to clean the heads, lap the valves, and install Z28 springs on the spare set (same 882 heads). Then install them with a Comp. 270H cam. My friend whom I drag race with swears I'll "blow the bottom end out" if I do this. The rings don't leak, it has new gaskets including rear seal, new oil pump and new timing gears and chain. I've twisted the motor past 6,000 as is. It's not as if I'm changing the compression ratio. It is a solid runner. Anyone have an informed opinion to help make my case? I'm just a true believer of Chevy dependability.These are two numbers match engines for my El Camino, don't want to change anything. I'm not a horsepower freak, my truck has nearly enough as is. It spins the tires at will.
Answer:
I am a cam designer/manufacturer & full competition engine builder. The 882 casting head is the poorest flowing factory casting head ever produced for a 4 inch bore block. THe 305 heads are designed around a smaller bore, so don't use them. They will flow less so your cylinder pressure will drop in terms of dynamic pressure. Static compression will increase but you will put less air in the cylinder to compress. For the money, bolt on a pair of 062 casting vortec heads and the vortec flange intake manifold to go with it.As for the cam, I have things that beat the comp stuff all around and anytime. If you are going to run a comp, the best all around street "shelf" grind cam of theirs you are going to get is their 268 High energy. The first one. Our founder designed that cam for them back in 1977.Install a fel pro 1094 head gasket to tighten the quench.A simple Z28 spring with a set of 7 degree "machined" valve locks will be good.Email me with your questions.
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