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Standard Motor Products Fluid Level Sensor
Price : $107.54 $48.00
Features
: - Standard Motor Products are designed and manufactured to equal or exceed OE parts in every publishedor testable specification.
- Control Modules are covered for 5 years or 50,000 miles. All other products are covered by a 90 day or 3000 mile warranty.
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Standard Motor Prod FLS17
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ACDelco 18012741 Master Cylinder Fluid Sensor
Price : $8.75
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Ac-Delco 18012741
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1986 Chrysler LeBaron CV Axle (Half Shaft) Driver
Price : $57.00
Features
: - Lifetime Manufacturer warranty
- New Re-manufacture
- New Cage,ball bearings,metal clamps
- Repacked with High temperature grease
- Painted finish
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New Re-manufactured,Lifetime Manufacturer warranty,New Inner Cage,Ball Bearings,CV Boot, Metal Clamp,C-clip,Repacked with High temperature resistant grease,painted finish
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Febi-Bilstein Reservoir Level Sensor
Price : $35.00 $35.00
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OES Genuine Reservoir Level Sensor
Price : $33.55
Features
: - Washer Fluid Level Sensor
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OES Genuine Reservoir Level Sensor; 1996-1999 BMW M3; 2000-2003 BMW M5; 1996-1997 BMW 318is; 1996-1998 BMW 318i; 2006 BMW M3; 1999 BMW 318i; 2004 Nissan Xterra, Convertible, Eng:M52, Ch:E36; 1989 Suzuki Swift; 1992 Toyota Corolla; 2008 Volkswagen Passat,
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Questions & Answers
Question : What is causing my tail lamp to malfunction?
I own a 99 accord ex coupe. Sometimes the tail lamp sensor goes off on the dashboard when I press the brakes and I notice that 1 of the tail lamps doesn't change when the brake is pressed (however it does turn on when I switch the headlights on). Other times everything works fine and there is no problem. All of the tail lights work perfectly when i turn the switch on for the headlights. When I press the brakes (with the headlights still on) the faulty tail lamp remains as if I hadn't pressed the brake. Again what confuses me is that this only occurs some of the time; with no apparant pattern other than when I press the brakes. I checked the brake fluid and it is at the proper level.
Answer:
Forgive me for stating the obvious, but the taillamp and brake lamp may use the same bulb...some bulbs have 2 filaments and that is the first thing I would check. Then you can start searching for open circuits in the wiring if that is not the case.
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Question : Vehicles ABS light comes on, but not immediately.?
When I start my car up the brake pedal vibrates but no ABS light comes on. After a minute the ABS light comes on and the brakes no longer vibrate when I hit them. What is wrong, could it be sensors? I have new pads and rotors and the fluid level is fine. Please help me if you can.Also, is there a way I can figure out which one is the bad sensor without having to take it to a mechanic?
Answer:
don't think a sensor will make your pedal do that sounds more like the master cylinder issue
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Question : On my Peugeot 806, why does my brake pad warning light come on, even though i have had brakes changed?
I have a 1998 Peugeot 806, which had its MOT today. It failed on a couple of things, and one of them was that the front brake pads and discs were badly worn and needed replacing. The garage has done this and put brand new discs and pads on the front. Driving home from the garage it was fine. However, tonight, the brake pad warning light comes on when i press the brake pedal - in the manual it says that this warning light indicates the pads may need changing - I have looked at the pads through the wheel and can see that new pads and discs are on there. The brakes work fine, and there is no noise coming from them - could this just be a dodgy sensor, that was maybe knocked when they replaced it all? Also, have checked the brake fluid levels, and that is fine.
Answer:
Take it back to the garage and ask what they did because the brake pad warning light comes on.Their fault. Could be a short, but get it checked out. Then get a second opinion at another garage.
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Question : Causes for brake and ABS warning light to come on?
i have a 1999 chevy malibu and when i start up the car the ABS and Brake light come on right after i start the car. In the past they both have usually come on here and there but when i'd stop and turn the car off and back on, they'd both go away, but as of now, they're both staying on. The brake fluid level is full and doesnt require anymore fluid. Could it be the wheel sensors?
Answer:
a wheel speed sensor is most common, it's part of the hub bearing so don't be surprised when they tell you that's what needs replacement
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Question : About how much would it cost to fix the following in a 1994 Saturn SL2?
I just bought the car a week ago, and although it has a few problems, it works fine overall, and none of these problems are really that urgent. I'd like to repair a few things, but I don't have anywhere to do it myself, and I don't really have the time either. And I'd like to ask here first because I live in a college town, and I'd like to know a general estimate of how much the repair should cost, and not get ripped off by being a "dumb college student" or something. Here's what I'd like repaired:-Broken fuel gaugeI bought the car with a nearly-full tank, and it showed that until two days after I bought it; afterwards, it would teeter between quarter-full and half-full. When I went to fill it up, I could only fill about 2.5 gallons before the pump wouldn't let me put in more, and the fuel gauge went back to full again. After using another 3 gallons or so, it's back to teetering around quarter-full and half-full. I know for a fact that it's not a leak.-Broken temperature gaugeI drove about 60 miles one day in 60-70 degree weather, and the temperature needle was almost on the "C" the entire time. The engine sounded and ran fun the entire time, so I think the sensor is just broken.-Falling brake pedalI'm not sure if that's the best way to put it, but I have to push the brake pedal more than halfway to the floor for it to begin braking. From that point, it brakes fine - it can stop on a dime - but like I said earlier, I have to push the brake pedal pretty far just to start braking at all. I checked the brake fluid levels, and it looks fine from what I can tell, so I don't think that's the problem.-Rear driver-side window doesn't openWhen I use the driver-side switch to try to open the window, I hear a motor running somewhere, but the window doesn't open. I've also tried using the switch on the door itself, but I don't hear or see anything happen. I've tried with the engine on too, but still nothing.-Main window motor continues "working" after I stop using itSometimes when I open a window or the sunroof while the engine is off (but the battery is on), while the window stops moving when I stop pressing the switch, I hear a motor clicking and thumping somewhere in the car, and it doesn't stop until I turn the engine on, or fiddle with opening and closing some other window(s). It's not very loud, but it's just annoying.Can somebody give me a rough estimate of any of the repairs? Thanks!
Answer:
One can not quote without physical inspection.Would arrange for quotes from different work shops.Would do brakes and temp gauge first.
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Question : Hand Brake light stays on?
Hi,My Lexus RX300 Hand Brake light stays on. I made sure that the hand brake is fully released and still have the issue. I think it could be the brake fluid but it is at Max level. However if I disconnect the Brake Fluid sensor connector, the light will be off. Do you think it is faulty sensor? Can I take it to Toyota dealer to fix it as my Lexus dealer can not inspect it today since Highlander is same as RX300?Is it safe to drive for a short distance with the connector disconnect so I won't hear the warning sound all the time?Thank you.
Answer:
Its possible the parking brake has locked up. The parking brake is cable operated, not fluid. You can drive , but how much damage may occur, I cant comment on. You can take to any service center for inspection.
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Question : 4T40E Auto Tranny Late Shifting - Help!?
Hey all. I have a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4 with the 4T40E automatic transmission. Recently, and really all of a sudden, the car has started having very late shifts. There is a CEL that stays on all the time, and it gives pending codes Shift Solenoid A and Shift Solenoid B. The transmission will go to, say, near 5k or so rpm's before shifting each gear. Not good. If I let off the gas and just coast, then within a few seconds or so the rpm's drop back down to where they normally were when driving. However, as soon as I touch the gas again to keep the car moving at the same speed, the rpm's shoot right back up to a high level. When the car is going about 55 mph, I hear a clacking sound that sounds similar to the old playing card-in-the-bicycle-wheel. Also, when in park with the engine running, I can hear some type of grinding/clanging sound coming from the transmission. The fluid is good and at the right level. I don't know if this is related, but I think it is -- at the exact same time that the transmission started having all these problems, I realized that the brake pedal is now hard to press, and the booster and vacuum lines going to it are good. The transmission is electronically controlled, so I wouldn't think it could be a vacuum issue anyway, but still somehow possibly the tranny could be related to the brakes, possibly something electrical? The pcm is also good as well. Could this be a TCC solenoid issue? If so, where would I disconnect it? I know from experience that bad TCC solenoids cause stalling, etc., but could it also cause problems like mine now? Could a loose drive axle cause any problems like these? I really need to figure out soon why the tranny is acting up particularly. The car ran fine until just after I replaced the head gasket/had the a/c recharged. I checked all fuses and tried to check the wires as best I could. All wheel speed sensors are plugged in like they should be. Please help!!! Need car for college/work!!!By the way, the ABS and Brake lights remain on all the time as well. These lights came on at the same time as the transmission issues and the corresponding CEL light came on. Thanks for reading. Much appreciated!I should also have mentioned that the brakes were bled and the fluid level is good.
Answer:
Hey all. I have a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4 with the 4T40E automatic transmission. Recently, and really all of a sudden, the car has started having very late shifts. There is a CEL that stays on all the time, and it gives pending codes Shift Solenoid A and Shift Solenoid B. The transmission will go to, say, near 5k or so rpm's before shifting each gear. Not good. If I let off the gas and just coast, then within a few seconds or so the rpm's drop back down to where they normally were when driving. However, as soon as I touch the gas again to keep the car moving at the same speed, the rpm's shoot right back up to a high level. When the car is going about 55 mph, I hear a clacking sound that sounds similar to the old playing card-in-the-bicycle-wheel. Also, when in park with the engine running, I can hear some type of grinding/clanging sound coming from the transmission. The fluid is good and at the right level. I don't know if this is related, but I think it is -- at the exact same time that the transmission started having all these problems, I realized that the brake pedal is now hard to press, and the booster and vacuum lines going to it are good. The transmission is electronically controlled, so I wouldn't think it could be a vacuum issue anyway, but still somehow possibly the tranny could be related to the brakes, possibly something electrical? The pcm is also good as well. Could this be a TCC solenoid issue? If so, where would I disconnect it? I know from experience that bad TCC solenoids cause stalling, etc., but could it also cause problems like mine now? Could a loose drive axle cause any problems like these? I really need to figure out soon why the tranny is acting up particularly. The car ran fine until just after I replaced the head gasket/had the a/c recharged. I checked all fuses and tried to check the wires as best I could. All wheel speed sensors are plugged in like they should be. Please help!!! Need car for college/work!!!By the way, the ABS and Brake lights remain on all the time as well. These lights came on at the same time as the transmission issues and the corresponding CEL light came on. Thanks for reading. Much appreciated!I should also have mentioned that the brakes were bled and the fluid level is good.
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Question : Brakes done on 04 745li, Brakes fade afterward?
I did brakes on an 04 BMW 745li.. front pads, rotors, rear pads, rotors, front and rear sensors. A lot of fluid spilt out of the cap because someone put fluid in the res when the fluid got low.. So after I complete all the work, i check the fluid level and it is good.. I then go to back the car out and every brake light on the dash lights up and the pedal is fading. I pull it back in, bleed the brakes, fill the res.. and everything is fine... Im not a BMW expert but I don't understand why it would do that.. any solutions?
Answer:
The brake pedal would be mushy to say the least after a brake job.So after servicing, the brake pedals should be pumped to make the brake pads go to its proper position at or very near the rotors.Then you can check the fluid level and correct it.Of course to turn off the check brake pad lights you have to turn on the key without starting the engine and wait for approximately 30 seconds.But frankly I do not understand why your brakelights turned on or why you even needed to do bleeding assuming that your braking system was good before you started the servicing and that you did it properly.I can only guess that since you did not pump the pedals immediately after servicing and proceeded to drive the car then the abs/dsc systemnoticed low brake fluid pressure and triggered the checklights.Additional info (food for thought):checklights - displays on cluster based on lamp control module instructions (in turn based on sensor inputs)brakelights - turns on when pedal trips pedal sensor or when lcm finds high circuit resistancee-brakes - turns on based on position sensor on brake leverbrake fluid level- turns on when level is below minimum in reservoirabs/dsc - turns on when low pressure is detected in abs pumpalong with many other possible causes
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Question : My 92 Honda Prelude has harsh pull in coast at low gear/speed? RPM sometimes rise and fall at idle?
My Prelude runs great, but when it is in low gears (or under around 30mph) if I let go of either the gas or clutch the car will go for a few seconds, then it will jerk itself forward as if braking and then releases the hold to coast and jerks again (not a downshift at a speed too high where the car pulls slightly then evens out, it will nearly make your head pull foward), instead of just allowing itself to coast. If I am above 30mph and release the gas or clutch it doesn't have this problem at all. Anytime I feel the car about to pull if I press the clutch, gas or ease on the break pedal the problem quickly vanishes. Also at times if I drive for a few feet and then stop the car the RPM will rise and fall (about 500 rpm up and down) but a quick press/release of the gas pedal will bring it to normal. I think the two are related? All fluids in car at norm level, good clutch. I was thinking MAP Sensor? Anyone have this problem before and got it fixed? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Answer:
I'd start looking at the fuel system, especially the cleanliness of the filter and possibly the O2 sensor.
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Question : I have a 99 dodge 4x4 pickup. The abs light and emergency brake light came on today. Any ideas?
The abs, emergency light and the speedo went out today. The code says vehicle speed sensor. I changed that out, cleared the codes and the speedo still does not work. The abs light and emergency light still illuminated. I've checked all fuses and brake fluid levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Please e-mail replies to reking1@alltel.net
Answer:
I seem to remember dodge having a problem with the pigtail on the speed sensor located on the differential. I replaced a speed sensor on a 97 dakota and i had to buy the pigtail to fix the problem.
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