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NEW 2000-05 Impala Power Window Master Control Switch Chevrolet (2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy, Drivers side, power, button, panel) NEW 2000-05 Impala Power Window Master Control Switch Chevrolet (2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy, Drivers side, power, button, panel)
Price : $45.00
Features :
  1. Aftermarket switch identical in appearance and function to your stock switch.
  2. Free lifetime warranty.
  3. Same day shipping! Shipping includes delivery confirmation for U.S. buyers.
  4. Free installation instructions and support on our website.
  5. Rock Bottom Prices (consistently your lowest switch price & shipping cost combined)!

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Chevrolet Impala Window Master Control Switch for all model years: 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2005.Shipping Options: Standard is 1st Class Mail for $4.49, Expedited is Priority Mail for $6.99, and Two-Day is Express Mail for $18.49. (00 01 02 03 04 05 Chevy, Drivers side, power, button).

Customer Review :

Good, works well.

Bought this for my Impala.. the dealer was selling it for $140.. saved a lot of money by purchasing it from this seller... has been working good for over a year now.. no problems.

Rating :



Metra 44UA200 Univ Glass Mnt Amplfd Ant Metra 44UA200 Univ Glass Mnt Amplfd Ant
Price : $14.99 Too low to display
Features :
  1. Deluxe High Performance Windshield or Glass Mount Amplified Antenna
  2. Separate AM/FM Amplifiers for Greatest Performance
  3. Separate Ground Wire for Noise Canceling
  4. Red LED to Confirm Amplifier Operation
  5. Mount On Windshield behind Mirror or On Fixed Side or Back Windows

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

For over 50 years, Metra has maintained its cutting edge by paying attention to its marketplace and innovating products to fit the needs of its customers. Metra designsits products to be easy to use and easy on the eyes.

Customer Review :

Works perfect! Don't believe the bad reviews

If you have a HD radio, Pontiac Aztek, or both... this is the antenna you need. The antenna works great and pulls in stations that I could not get. It also links to HD stations quickly. Installation was easy. I used the old wire to pull the new one through. Make sure to hook the ground wire to a good spot.

Rating :



Excellent product!

Best amplified antenna I've used and I've used a bunch! Would def. buy it again!

Rating :



Works, but not as advertised

I purchased this antenna because I have an older vehicle and the stock antenna was no longer working due to the cable becoming rusted. I wanted to test the reception before disassembling the dash and routing the wire, so I temporarily hooked up the antenna wire, power and ground. I was just holding the antenna by the base up on the windshield and using scan to pickup stations. It didn't find any more stations than I could get with my failing antenna, and even the strong local one seemed to have more static than before. I tried moving the antenna to different locations on the windshield to see if that affected performance and inadvertently pulled the power wire off its temporary location and the signal got better! I ended up leaving just the antenna and ground wire hooked up and can now get many stations that I couldn't before, and all local stations come in perfectly.

Summary: Don't hook up power wire.

Rating :



Nice Alternative

I installed this on a 2003 Suzuki Aerio whose roof mounted antenna had cracked and deteriorated from age. Rather than remove the lining this antenna easily mounted on the front right (passenger) side of the windshield. I used the A-frame molding to route the leads down into the dash. It is a powered antenna so I jumpered into the radio power and was all set. Great reception! A small red LED lights to let you know it's functional. Great price and much less labor than I expected. Entire job was done in less than an hour and looks professional.

Rating :



Works as Advertised

Works great, a little big, but I have a 94 civic that I use for commuting, so I'm not too worried about aesthetics. Not hard to install, I just hooked up the antenna wire and power wire and left the ground disconnected sounds fine with no engine noise etc....

Rating :



More reviews...

NEW 1997-03 Grand Prix (4 door) Power Window Master Control Switch Pontiac (1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 drivers side, power, four door) NEW 1997-03 Grand Prix (4 door) Power Window Master Control Switch Pontiac (1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 drivers side, power, four door)
Price : $45.00
Features :
  1. Aftermarket switch identical in appearance and function to your stock switch.
  2. Free lifetime warranty.
  3. Same day shipping! Shipping includes delivery confirmation for U.S. buyers.
  4. Free installation instructions and support on our website.
  5. Rock Bottom Prices (consistently your lowest switch price & shipping cost combined)!

Average Customer Rating : Not yet rated

Editorial Review :

Pontiac Grand Prix 4-Door Window Master Control Switch for all model years: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, and 2003. (97 98 99 00 01 02 03 Drivers side, power, button).

Customer Review :

No review yet

NEW 1998-01 Altima Power Window Master Control Switch Nissan (1998 1999 2000 2001 98 99 00 01 Drivers side, power, button, panel) NEW 1998-01 Altima Power Window Master Control Switch Nissan (1998 1999 2000 2001 98 99 00 01 Drivers side, power, button, panel)
Price : $46.50
Features :
  1. Aftermarket switch identical in appearance and function to your stock switch.
  2. Free lifetime warranty.
  3. Same day shipping! Shipping includes delivery confirmation for U.S. buyers.
  4. Free installation instructions and support on our website.
  5. Rock Bottom Prices (consistently your lowest switch price & shipping cost combined)!

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Nissan Altima Window Master Control Switch for all model years: 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001. (98 99 00 01 Drivers side, power, button)

Customer Review :

work perfect!!!!

I received on time! and it work perfect. The installation was really easy. I definitely will buy here again if need it..

Rating :



Item was Exactly What we Needed

The original switch in my wife's care broke after 10 years. We ordered this, I popped it in, and it worked like a charm. About a month later the engine blew on the car and we ended up donating it. We bought a 2010 Rav4 the day before Toyota announced the recall. LOL! I wish we still had the Altima and this switch!

The switch was perfect. Great price, fast shipping, and worked like a charm. Hopefully someone out there will get to use it more than we did.

Rating :



Daystar KU80011 20 Amp Blue Light Rocker Switch Kit Daystar KU80011 20 Amp Blue Light Rocker Switch Kit
Price : $18.25 $10.95
Features :
  1. Designed to connect and disconnect an electrical circuit at will
  2. Ensures long lasting durability
  3. Feature a light on the face of the switch
  4. Easy installation

Average Customer Rating :

Editorial Review :

Daystar 20 Amp Blue Light Rocker Switch Kit are designed to connect and disconnect an electrical circuit at will. These switche kits are made from sturdy material that ensures long lasting durability. They feature a light on the face of the switch and facilitate easy installation.

Customer Review :

Installed on an FJ

I was hoping that I would not have to cut/trim anything, but I did b/c of some plastic overhang on the FJ. It works great and fits nice and snug.

Pros:

Very easy to follow directions --- hot line in, hot line out, and ground are marked extremely well
Light ---- not too bright, but just enough to yield a cool look.
Feels durable
Good switching mechanism --- on/off

Cons:

Only that I had to trim a little to get it to fit perfectly.


Rating :



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Questions & Answers
Question : 150-200 amp toggle switch?
I'm wiring up 10 k.c. lights on my blazer and each one runs on 15 amps and i want to just wire them all onto one switch. I was wondering if there's any place that I can get a toggle switch that can handle 150+ amps? I had a 50 amp switch wired up but forgot it could only handle 50 amps and it fried the switch. And one more question... I have all the k.c. lights wired up to a fuse box and each light has its own fuse, and then I have the fuse box wired up to the switch, then the switch wired up to the battery. The question is do I really need a relay to help out with handling the power needs of the k.c. lights or is it okay the way I have it wired up now? Whays the pros and cons of having a relay wired up with the k.c. lights? Any help will be great. Thanks.P.S.For those whos asking why I have so many k.c. lights.... I go off-roading and it helps at night if I'm out somewhere and need to light up the area around me to see better. And yes I know I'll need to upgrade my alternator to handle the 150 extra amps for the k.c.s. I already plan on upgrading not only cause of that, but I also have a 1800 watt sub amp I have wired up as well.

Answer:
This will be much better an not as hard to find. Mounting the relay will ground it the other small terminal will go to a standard toggle switch that is fused with a 20 amp fuse to the positive terminal of your battery.. The two larger terminals one will go to a 200amp or a 250 amp ANL type This will protect the wiring to your lights. This fuse you can also get from this web site along with the fuse holder. Then fuse to the positive terminal of your battery . The other large terminal will be used for your KC lights. The same site has a 300 amp relay it hooks up the same.I hope this will help.

 

Question : I hear that if you have more than 3 amps you should have a relay, Need to know how that would work?
I am going to have 4 nonfactory amps and one factory amp in the car. I now use a switch to turn the radio on and off and have two other switches to turn on the amps I have in the car so I don't have to kill my ears all the time I want to turn it up. I wired it up so the amps still will not turn with out the radio being on. How and why would I hook up a relay? I have the factory amp on the front speakers, one on the back, one on the 12" and one for the 2 10" and have one more amp that I am going to put in so the 10"s have here own amps. You can see in my pic that I made a fiberglass box that replaces the back seat. and does that set up mean that I have a WALL in spl comp rules?hi Akiyoshi A, do you work for google, I asked on yahoo. google was no help. and couple of people I know know the answer on yahoo and am only going to trust them

Answer:
Just use a standard Bosch-type automotive relay. There should be five terminals, labelled 85, 86, 87, 87a, and 30.The easiest place to install the relay is behind the head unit.Connect 85 to ground.Connect 86 to the blue/white remote output from your deck.Connect 87 to the red wire in your deck harness.Connect 30 to the wire(s) that run to your amps' remote terminals. You can run a separate wire to each amp, or run a wire to the first amp, then connect a wire between that amp's remote terminal and the next amp, and so on.Leave 87a disconnected.The best way to attach wires to the relay's terminals are female, insulated 1/4" quick-disconnect terminals.Dennis, the purpose of the relay is to avoid overloading the head unit's remote output with too much current.

 

Question : 1999 Roadstar blows the 15 amp ignition fuse every time I turn the key on.?
I've changed the starter relay... unplugged all the other relays... unpulgged the headlight and all the connections in the headlight bucket. I havn't checked the kickstand switch and will do that tonight when I get home from work. I need to buy another fist full of fuses to troubleshoot! .... Do you have any suggestions?Yeah. It's a short... for sure...

Answer:
You've got a wire that's frayed or broken and is making contact with bare metal or another wire somewhere between the battery and the starter. You'll have to use an electric meter that's battery powered to do a continuity test on each section of wiring. Start with the wiring diagram in the service manual and trace the path from the battery through the ignition switch to the 15 amp ignition fuse, making note of the wire colors on each step of the path after the fuse. Find those wire colors on your bike, and attach your leads from your electric meter to either end of each section of wire and check continuity by turning the meter switch to VDC (volts DC). You'll have to check each section of wire until you locate the one that has no continuity. Once you find the damaged section, you can replace it.Switches can be checked using your meter in the Ohms setting. A good switch will have a reading of .2 ohms or less. A bad switch will have a reading of 1 or 100 or more ohms when in the "on" position (or kickstand up). Ohms is a measurement of resistance to electrical flow, and the meter will have a Greek symbol for Omega to indicate the ohms setting.You can't fix this without a meter, unless you get lucky and find the problem with a visual inspection, which is difficult considering most wires are hidden.

 

Question : best way to run two fans on top of my amp, i took the top off , im going to make a new top and cut holes for f
for the fans, then run the fans off of a relay, then have a toggle switch go to the relay for the fans, do i need to make a dist. block for all of the fans to hook into or should i just run them in a series , will that work or will it cut the power for each fan, should i have the fans suck out of the amp or blow into the amp, the vents are on the side of the amp for the air to be pushed or pulled in.. thxit will blow across them, im not taking the heat sinks off, so it will still blow across them. do u know whati mean? if not i can explain more here when i get back to school in an hour.will force air all around the amp, across everything, like those heat sinks

Answer:
VERY BAD IDEA!!!Having fans in the top when the amp wasn't designed for it is asking for trouble. The heat sinks on the power transistors is where the heat of the amp comes from and is the location air flow needs to be if you plan on using fans.Ideally having the fans blow across the top of the amps heat sinks will be extremely better for the amp than trying to modify it. This is coming from someone who modifies everything.You will also need to change the method of the REM wire so you can control the fans. The best type of fan to use is a 12V DC brushless computer fan for no noise.There are two methods.Run a fused (1 amp, 14 AWG) wire from a fuse in the fuse panel that only has power when the car is ON to one side of a switch. From the other side of the switch run the same sized wire to the REM (remote) connection on the amp and to the fans positive power leads.. You can find fuse taps and in-line fuse holders at any autoparts store.-OR-You can use a relay controlled by the REM wire from the head unit. This relay will control the amps and power the fans. A fuse is still required to each device. I'd use nothing bigger than a 1 amp fuse.

 

Question : how to wire an spst slide switch with a relay?
I'm trying to figure out how to wire one of those spst 6 amp 125VAC slide switches to a relay. My power source is a 25 ah 12 volt battery. I'm using this switch to turn on a robot. All I know so far is that 87 contact on the relay is for the electronics.30 will have a fuse between the battery on the + side and contact 30. and 85 is ground I guess. I want to keep the 25 amps going to the relay and the electronics, as I don't want this switch to be big, but I want it to be on the outside of the robot for easy turning on and off. There will be a power LED, small red one to let me know that it's on. Thanks for any help

Answer:
Battery negative (minus) will go to the relay 85 contact, negative of the LED, and the robot's ground or minus.Battery positive (plus) will go to the fuse,The other side of the fuse will go to the switch and the 87 contact of the relay.The other contact of the switch will go to the relay 86 contact.Relays contact 30 will go to the robots plus (positive, power), and to the proper resistor (around 5kohm.). The other lead of the resistor will go to the LED positive contact. Good luck

 

Question : I have a 2003 4x4 chevy silverado. my A/C is blowing hot.?
I purchased a charge kit with guage and I am fine on charge....on the high side and in blue. my clutch cycling switch is working fine. I have checked all hvac related fuses in the cab and under the hood and even switched relays with other common amp and switched relays. What do I look for next?

Answer:
does the compressor even kick on ??? a charge kit isnt very accurate for checking actuall running pressures. if the compressor still cycles that means its most likely not full.

 

Question : I'm having problems with my 2000 dodge neon. I keep blowing a 15 amp fuse that controls abs,solanoid,eng rlsys
For some reason the 15 amp fuse that controls abs, solanoid, eng rlys and eng mod keeps blowing. I replaced the ignition switch and that didn't help. still blowing fuses. I removed the starter relay and the fuse still popped so it can't be the starter or the solanoid. where else can i look to find the problem.I've tried all of your guys options and nothing seems to work. How can I get a wiring grid of the car to find out where the wires go from the ignition switch to the rest of the car. I think it's a dead short in a wire somewhere. And by the way the wiring in any car of today is a nightmare because of all the electronics.

Answer:
the way i do those is anything else that is on the same circuit disconnect it,and see when it stops blowing the fuse,then you will have narrowed the problem down to a point anyway,wiring on Chrysler products is a nightmare to work on,an its usually something simple once you find it,pull the wire off the abs unit and try the fuse again, i found one about a week ago with a bad abs unit and it would blow every fuse you put in it,we got on on order now ,that may be the same thing yours is doing also,good luck with it.

 

Question : Do I need a Relay for fog lights?
There are 4 fog lights, each 55 watts, which is 220 watts total. They're all wired to the same switch and have a 25 amp fuse connected through the wiring (don't know if that's relevant to my question though) Is having a relay necessary, if so, what are the specifications of a relay I would be looking for and how much would I be spending. Currently, the setup does not have a relay wired in. What would I need to connect a relay to if necessary. The switch in the cabin already requires a main power line, it's own ground, and a connection the lights. Any information would be helpful.

Answer:
YES! Certainly you need a relay for your 4x55 watts fog lamps. That's 220 W of power and sucks about 18 Amperes of Current from your 12 volt Battery. That means you need to have either a very huge wire and swith to carry the 18 Ampere current or just a simply relay that can even hold more than 25 Amperes of Current. Without a relay, you may not experience a problem now but in the long run your switch will burn because of heat and electrolysis. Find a suitable Ampere rated Relay at least 25 Ampere and that's enough to carry the load of 4x55watts fog lamps.. Or you may use 4 relays if each is rated below 25 Amp as long as they total to at least 25 Amps. It must be Parallel connection..

 

Question : I've hooked up an automobile amp directly to a deep cycle battery but have no power. Why?
I'm trying to create a mobile sound system which will be pulled on a trailer behind a bike. It will be powered by a deep cycle battery and the input will be from an iPod. I'm using a Pyle marine amp. I've hooked up the positive connector on the amp to the positive terminal on the battery through a power switch and a fuse relay. I've hooked up the remote connector on the amp to the negative terminal on the battery and I've connected a ground wire to the frame of the trailer. I'm getting no power to the amp. The battery is fully charged, the fuses and switch are all good but still no power. It appears the problem might have to do with the remote turn on feature in the amp so I need to figure out a way to bypass the remote turn on to get the amp to power up. Any ideas how I might do this?

Answer:
Yeah like 1000man has said, you need to connect the remote wire to positive as well, and because a trailer has no ground like a car does, you will need to connect the negative of the amp to the negative on the battery, then it should all be good

 

Question : i need help on wiring a toggle switch to turn on my amp. the remote turn on relay doesnt work.?
today when i pulled in my driveway, i noticed my amp was still on after i turned the key off. i checked it out and have come to the conclusion that the rem. turn on circut is fried. i disconnected the rem wire and left the power and ground hooked up, and it still stayed on. its a brand new amp and i dont want to spend the money on a new one. how can i wire a toggle switch to interrupt the power supply to it? its 8 gauge wiring. or if a toggle switch isnt the best option, i am open to suggestions.

Answer:
The best way to deal with electricity is to take away the ground! It's safer, and much less complicated, to just break the ground circuit. All electronic devices require a ground and power lead. If you break in the ground wire and place a switch in series to it you can manually turn it on and off.

 

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