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Mityvac 7400 7.3 Liter Fluid Evacuator
Price : $90.60 $51.80
Features
: - Evacuates all kinds of fluids including engine oil, transmission fluids, gear oil, coolant, and brake fluid
- Large 1.9 gallon reservoir (7.3 liters) hand operated pump for the big jobs
- Includes 5 feet of flex hose and two dipstick hoses
- Features polyethylene construction and will not rust or corrode for durability
- Quick-drain pour spout
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Editorial Review :
Mityvac 7.3 liter fluid evacuator features stiffening ribs for added durability. The redesigned pump handle is stronger for heavy use and longer tool life. A larger base prevents the chance of tipping and spills in shop.
Customer Review :
Look no further. This thing is awesome! And CHEAP!
I bought this becuase I have a new boat with twin inboards. I would normally pay $100-$125 per motor so it would add up, as I like to change every 50 hours. This thing is so easy to use and NOT messy. Forget the battery powered ones. Forget going to WestMarine, too. They sell them for over double. I did this all through the dip stick. Great PRODUCT!
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Worked perfectly
I read the reviews on Amazon; concerned about the various issues.
I bought it, had it shipped to San Jose, CA and arrived in 3 days standard free shipping.
It was easy to set up; just tighten the screws to make sure it's tight. Run car up to temperature, turn off, insert hose carefully into dipstick. Push a little further than dipstick until it stops (2007 Ford Focus).
I pumped it about 5-10 times, and continued to pump later. It seems to only require a few strokes and takes about 15 mins to suck out 3.5 liters (car holds 4.7). Some lost to consumption, other to oil filter (downward facing).
The reviews mentioned seals that fail due to synthetic oil; others say yes, others say no to the failure cause. The Focus uses 5-20W oil Mobil 1 synthetic, so we'll see in 3 months how it holds up.
For now, it worked perfectly,
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Saw it - had to have it
My father-in-law had one, he was having fun with it changing the transmission fluid in every car that pulled into his driveway.
I knew right there, I had to have one. With 4 high mileage cars, I pulled this thing out of the box and went right to work changing transmission fluid in all my vehicles. I had been looking for a syphon to get fluid out of one car. Now I have one.
Saves the cost of paying someone else to change it or taking the proverbial hot transmission fluid baptisim.
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Great Product!
I have a Mercedes C230 and this system worked GREAT for extracting the oil. This is a wonderful tool and it couldn't have worked any better. This unit was very easy to use and only took about 10 minutes to complete the job. Try it for yourself and I'm sure you'll feel the same as I do.
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Poor design/bad packaging = damage in shipment
I ordered a Mityvac 7400 7.3 Liter Fluid Evacuator on February 21 of this year. It was ordered as a gift and, because the shipping container appeared to be in good shape with no sign of damage, I made the mistake of wrapping the gift before inspecting it. It was purchased well in advance of the occasion for which I purchased it. The gift was opened this weekend during my mother-in-laws trip from Miami. The Mityvac Evacuator WAS indeed damaged in shipping and, when I try to return it now, Amazon's response is that the return window has expired.
The design of the device is poor in my opinion. The outer shell is a hard, brittle plastic. The box it came in was too flimsy to protect it during shipping. I emphasize the the shipping container had no sign of damage. Clearly this thing received a small bump during handling and the canister is so brittle that bump caused it to shatter. I doubt that I can find any way to repair it so that it maintains a vacuum, let alone the challenge of preventing oil or transmission fluid from leaking from the canister during use.
I'm very disappointed in the product and Amazon's return policy for this item. I'll certainly never purchase one again.
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Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus
Price : $127.45 $67.95
Features
: - Features a large 8.8 liter (2.3 gallon) capacity bi-functional manual unit to extract and dispense a wide-range of fluid types
- Clean and simple way to evacuate and dispense fluids
- Reservoir is constructed of durable polyethylene and will not rust or corrode
- Automatic flow control valve prevents the unit from overfilling during use and automatically shuts off at 8 liters
- Kit comes with 5 feet of flexible hose and two rigid dipstick tubes for engine oil removal
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Editorial Review :
Mityvac fluid evacuator requires no power to create a vacuum and pressure to evacuate and disperse most automotive liquids and chemicals. Features an external pump design for easy access. The large capacity, 8.8 liter fluid reservoir has automatic flow control, preventing overfilling. It also has a pressure relief valve for safety.
Customer Review :
Indispensible tool for service of German cars
I really enjoy the Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus. I can't say that it makes changing the oil much quicker than using the drain plug or even that much neater but it certainly does make it easier.
If you have a car with the oil filter located where you can access it without getting under the car, I would recommend the evacuator without hesitation. If you have to get under the car or truck to change the filter you might as well just drain the oil with the plug.
I bought the evacuator about a year ago specifically for use on my 2007 Mercedes E320 Diesel which has the drain plug in a very awkward location. Since then I've used it about a dozen times on both the diesel and my 2002 E46 BMW 330i. I have never had a problem with the performance and my only complaint is that it does not have enough capacity for the Mercedes. This car holds 9 quarts of oil and I have to stop halfway through the evacuation and empty the reservoir. Once the evacuator has been filled, the film of dark oil clinging to the walls prevents seeing the oil level under any lighting conditions. So, I always evacuate about 3 quarts, empty the evacuator, and then evacuate the remainder. This is not a problem with the BMW since the evacuator can empty this car in one step.
Before I purchased the evacuator I read some reviews that warned that their evacuator did not come with a gasket between the lid and the side walls. I took mine apart on arrival and it did not have a gasket either. However, the plastic parts fit tightly together and make an air tight seal. It is my theory that some of the people that could not get their evacuators to empty their crankcases have a problem with the length of the suction tube inside the evacuator. For the evacuator to work in pump mode, versus vacuum mode, there is a tube that extends to the bottom of the evacuator, much like drinking a milkshake through a straw, that allows you to pump out the evacuator contents. In my evacuator the tube has very little clearance with the bottom of the unit. I believe in some units the internal tube may actually touch the bottom of the evacuator and prevent or limit the vacuum pulled in the tank from drawing the oil through the suction tube. If you should order an evacuator and then find that it does not work (I suggest testing it in the sink first using water) you should try taking it apart and checking the internal tube length. There of course are many other reasons the units may not work but I thought this tip was worth passing along.
Many other reviewers have commented on this as well but I also wanted mention that the unit works much better when the oil is warm. However, I changed my oil once on a 40° day when the oil was at ambient conditions and with a little patience I was able to suck every last drop out. So, it can be done but I would not recommend it.
I also wanted to give a couple of tips on tubing. In my cars, the largest tube which will go down the dipsticks is ¼". I buy it in bulk at my local Ace hardware for $0.12 a foot. I only use the ¼" tube one time, discarding it after each use in order to prevent the introduction of dirt into the engine internals and also to avoid the mess of storing an oily piece of tubing. I feed the ¼" tube from the spool it is supplied on into the dipstick until it touches the bottom of the oil pan. I then cut the tubing off the roll, leaving about 6" of tube sticking out of the dipstick tube. I have shortened the length of the factory large diameter tube that is directly connected to the evacuator so that it reaches just from the evacuator when it is sitting within 1' of the fender to the dipstick. The 2 different size pieces of tube are then connected with the included rubber adapter. This gives me the shortest possible run of tubing with the largest diameter tubing possible for each section of the run. I have had very good success with this setup.
I do not clean my evacuator after each use but I also don't leave oil in. I immediately switch it into pump mode and pump the oil, using only the large diameter tube, into a container to transport the oil for recycling. Once the evacuator is emptied I will stretch out the large diameter tube to a rag on the ground and allow the oil in the tube to gravity flow out over night. The tube can then be wrapped around the evacuator and it will snap into clips on the side of the unit. I don't like to use the drain plug on the top of the evacuator to empty it. The plug is difficult to get out even when lubed with oil and is it is difficult to pour the oil into other containers.
The evacuator should allow you to change the oil with the minimum of mess possible. However no matter how careful I am, I always seem to drip or spray 1 or 2 drops of oil onto myself or the floor. This can be an improvement over the drain plug and pan method though. For example on my Explorer you must carefully control the flow from the drain plug or it comes out with such force that it splashes or sprays the under car components. With the evacuator you also don't have to worry about sloshing oil out of an open pan, oil splashing on the top of one of the closed-top funnel-type pans, or spilling when you transfer oil from a pan into another container.
For those car enthusiasts who have a true passion for their cars and this type work, I would recommend having your oil tested periodically by a lab. I recommend Blackstone-labs. Their testing service is very affordable and they can help you determine the true required interval between oil changes for your driving habits and vehicle.
For hard to find oils like the Mobil 1 Type M ESP used in all new diesel Mercedes, I would recommend mail ordering your oil from AVlube. This oil is available through the dealership and at Pep Boys but I have found it to be less expensive and more convenient to mail order the oil in bulk.
Properly set up, I have found the evacuator to be an indispensible tool for service on my German cars.
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Mityvac 7201
The Mityvac makes changing oil simple, clean and quick. I did two cars this weekend. The Mityvac pumped all the oil out of the oil pan; I did double checked by pulling the oil plug. Even sucked the oil out of the oil filter. Reverse action on the Mityvac makes transferring used oil to disposal vessel really easy.
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fastest and cheapest oil change for my Benz yet
This worked as advertized; however, i didnt warm up the engine quite to temperature like i should have. I also had to figure out that i had to take the canister oil filter out to release the final 2qts of spent oil. This tool is well worth the money and i cant wait to flush my transmission on my truck with this. hope it makes it just as easy!
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This thing is awesome!
Ever want to suck fluids out of your car simply and quickly? Well this is the product for you! Unless your car is like mine and the oil filter is below the bottom of the dipstick, and then after you suck all the oil out, when you disconnect the filter you get oil all over the place! Thankyou Subaru!
But seriously, this product is amazing. It does exactly what it says it does. Worked great for changing my Tranny Fluid. Just still have to do oil changes the old fashion way.
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Awesome
Once you suck, you will never drain. This is absolutely wonderful. It took me about 15 minutes to prep and change my own oil.
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Mityvac 7300 PneumatiVac Air-Operated Fluid Evacuator
Price : $147.20 $78.99
Features
: - Features a 2.3 gallon (8.8 liter) capacity air operated fluid evacuator for large jobs
- Automatic shut-off valve prevents overfilling
- Can be used to extract a wide-range of fluid types from transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, gear to engine oil
- Reservoir is constructed of durable polyethylene and will not rust or corrode
- Kit comes with 5 feet of flexible hose, dipstick tubes and a universal brake-bleeding adapter
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Editorial Review :
Mityvac air operated evacuator provides a clean, fast and simple way to evacuate fluids. It features a base mounted Venturi adding stability during operation and the air and fluid-line shift off valves prevent the unit from overfilling during use.
Customer Review :
extractor
Was a little leery based on conflicting reviews I have read. This thing works just fine. I have used it both on my Mercedes and Chevy Blazer, neat and clean on either vehicle. Dipstick tube could be a little longer for the Blazer due to its dipstick location toward the rear of the engine. I will probably construct an extension for the next time. The Benz holds nine quarts, so that pretty well fills the reservoir, but it works. Don't hesitate, plug it in, get your favorite beverage and wait a few minutes.
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Great Product
I used the Mityvac 7300 for the first time this past weekend. Overall, I am very satisfied. I ran the tube down the dip stick hole and evacuated all of the oil out of the oil pan. I know this because after I was done I removed the drain plug to see if any oil was left. Not a drop! Usually, oil continues to dribble out of the oil drain hole for quite a while on a standard oil change. This unit sucked the oil pan dry.
Positives: It works as advertised. It draws the oil out and makes no mess. I have always changed my own oil. There used to always be some some clean up and an occasional splash zone. Not anymore. Removing the oil and handling the used oil is easy and makes no mess.
Negatives: The tubes that are provided are to short. To use the unit out of the box I had to lay it on top of the engine on its side. My vehicle is a '02 Toyota Tacoma. It is nothing out of the ordinary. Standard engine and the dip stick hole is in the front of the engine compartment. I am going to buy a longer piece of tubing and then I will be very happy. There is no fitting provided for the air line either. A small item but I would have liked to have to not disassemble something else to get the air fitting.
This product would have received a strong 5-stars if the dip stick tubing was longer. I expect to change my oil more frequently now because it is now quite a bit easier to do and using this unit makes no mess at all.
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Mityvac 7300
I have used it once since I purchased it and it is nice to receive a product that does what it is advertised to do. Instructions are ok.
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very happy
bought thid to do oil changes for my boat, originally was going to buy the pump style but i have a air comp. and plan on always doing at home so iwent with this model. first impressions on opening box is this a quality unit. comes with 3 different hoses @ a brake bleeder. used it on the boat and it worked great, used it on my truck for trans fluid and it worked great for this also. did my snowblower weed wacker and lawn mower with no problems. bought a longer hose at home depot for a couple bucks.trans fluid change on my truck neede longer hose but i dont fault mityvac as its pretty far from ground to over fender down trans tube. overall very happy tom
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Worked beautifully on removing my Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Fluid
Sucked almost 4 quarters out of my jeep's transmission in less than 5 minutes, I also would like to indicate that the provided hose worked fine, did not need to buy any longer ones.
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Mityvac 6830 Brake Bleeder
Price : $203.20 $105.90
Features
: - Includes a swivel air inlet to prevent kinks in the air hose during movement
- Automatic shutoff valve to prevent overfilling
- 1.9-quart (1.8 liter) reservoir allows the operator to perform multiple bleeding jobs without emptying
- Bleeds at a rate of up to two quarts (1.9 liters) per minute for increased productivity and features a variable thumb throttle to maintain desired flow rate
- Reservoir and lid feature large, coarse threads to reduce cross threading, and the bench-mountable, molded base keeps the unit secure while removing or replacing the lid
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Editorial Review :
Mityvac brake bleeder features a swivel air inlet with a quick disconnect to keep the air hose from twisting, reducing the risk of overturning the unit during use. The automatic shutoff valve prevents overfilling of the fluid reservoir.
Customer Review :
Nice little tool
Ok, I got this witn somewhat low expectaions. I was very happy when it worked so well. It was easy to use, and worked like a charm. I bled the hydrolic cluch on my classic mini cooper in about 5 minutes, on my own, with no air bubbles or "oops...do it again" moments. Just hook it up as discribed in the directions, connect the air line in, and bleed away. I haven't used it for my brakes yet, but the cluch was so easy, I am considering it just to feel more secure about having new fluid in all of the lines. Also, I didn't use the attachment that keeps the resevar full, I just stopped and checked once or twice when I saw how much fluid was coming through. Super Easy, Super Effective. Great Buy!! You would spend 3 times this to get the job done at a shop, and twice this on asprin trying to get it right the old fasioned way...If you like working on cars, buy this, you won't regret it. One more great feature is that you can use it for just about any fluid. It has no electric pump so flamibles are not a problem. I drained the gas tank on my 1969 Honda CB350 in about 3 min so I could make some repairs...very cool!! One note, you must have a compressor to use this tool.
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A must have for brake jobs
This tool really makes bleeding brake lines and hydraulic clutch lines an easy task. Changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines during a brake job made a noticeable difference in the feel at the pedal too. It was worth every penny.
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excellent product!!
i enjoy owning the product very much. it has many uses other than brake service. would rec to any technician
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Genesis Cable Bleeder Bottle
Price : $11.95 $9.99
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Editorial Review :
Genesis Technologies Brake Bleeder Bottles Make bleeding brakes clean and easy with the cable or magnet mount bleeder bottles. Both bottles feature no spill/no leak hose storage bung and bottom tube fluid entry. The large 16 oz. holds twice the fluid as those other bottles, which allows more flushes before having to empty. The Cable Mount Bottle features a stainless steel lanyard that is perfect for hanging the bottle from the bleeder screw or a lug stud. The Magnet Mount Bottle features a 16 lb. magnet and is great for hanging the bottle in multiple locations on the vehicle and stores away easily on the side of the tool box.
Customer Review :
Works perfectly
I use it to flush brake fluid on my Porsche Cayman S. This bleeder bottle with cable hangs perfectly from the caliper and captures all fluid without spilling a drop. Highly recommend for a DIY brake flush.
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Simple and functional
Well, what's there to say? It is a small plastic bottle with a flexible hose. Both are almost clear so you can see the fluid and air bubbles coming out of your brake line. The magnet or cable - both are convenient, so choose your preference. I went with the cable and hang it from the bleeder valve when in use. Well worth the small investment to have a nice clean bottle that you can watch during the process.
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Questions & Answers
Question : What tools do I need to remove rear brake calipers?
I am changing my brakes (rear) on a 1991 Lincoln Towncar,,,on My buick I needed one of those star sockets T12 or something well I've never worked on a fod product, so what tools do i need and are there any tricks to make it easier
Answer:
It depends on what kind of car you have. I think you will need a lug wrench. Maybe c clamp to push the pistons back. Probably a set of allen wrenches. I put a link for a website I have had a lot luck with below.
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Question : Special tools needed for brake replacement?
I am going to replace all 4 rotors and brake pads on my 2002 Cadillac Escalade.Are any special tools necessary? Star sockets? special or metric sockets? If so, I would like to have them on hand before starting.Thanks.
Answer:
You will also a large c-clamp to push the pistons back in, good breaker bar to get the lugs loose and a torque wrench to tighten the lugs to the right psi. A few times I needed some heat to loose the caliper bolts cause of loc-tite type compounds. Oh and a used turkey baster to drain some brake fluid out of the reservoir, when you push the pistons back in the fluid (if full in the reservoir ) will drip out on to your engine compartment and floor.
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Question : What tools are needed for a brake job?
I'm about to do a brake job on a Toyota Rav 4 and I just need to know what tools will i need. Thanks
Answer:
1'2" impact, metric sockets.3'8" ratchet, sockets, allen sets.C-clamp1'2", 3'8" torque wrench.brake cleaner.
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Question : What tools are needed to replace the front brake pads on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier?
What tools are needed to replace the front brake pads on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier?
Answer:
Socket wrench set and breaker bar, Torque wrench. Jack, Jack stand(s) pry bar, wire brush. Optional - air compressor and impact wrench and body grinder with sanding disks to remove rust from slides.The front discs are easy, Break loose the wheel lugs with the car on the ground, then jack up one front wheel and support the car using a metal jack stand, Attention! DO NOT do any service with the car supported only by the jack! Always use metal jack stands rated for the weight of the vehicle you are working on. One Ton stands are adequate for most cars but full size pickup trucks require the use of 1 1/2 Ton stands to support the additional weight of the heavy frame and larger engines used in trucks. Remove the wheel, turn the steering until the caliper is as exposed as possible, drive the caliper piston all the way back using a pair of pry bars, remove the caliper mounting slide bolts (They may be 10mm hex or 8mm Allen head) remove the old pads and remove the rotor (a few models require removal of the caliper support to replace the rotor because the support wraps around the rotor) by hammering around the rim of the caliper with a heavy hand sledge until it breaks loose - wear Safety Glasses to protect yourself from flying bits of rust and metal! Clean the excess rust off of the pad and caliper slide supports and apply a light coating of Anti-Seize compound to the slide surfaces. Wash the new Rotor off with Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative coating which prevents rusting during storage but is deadly dangerous if it gets on your new pads! Install the rotor, assemble the pads into the caliper, reinstall the caliper and the wheel assembly, snug the wheel lugs using a crisscross or star pattern. Lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel lugs to the proper torque using a torque wrench again using the crisscross or star pattern of tightening, which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Apply the brake pedal several times until the pedal is firm. Repeat process for other wheel.
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Question : where can I buy Brake service TOOLS in Canada?
I mean the drum brake tools in kitand Disc brake tools in kit.
Answer:
my answer go to visit www.auto/shop.com
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Question : How do you remove a 2000 pontiac sunfire emergency brake handle? What tools do you need?
the plastic part of the handle
Answer:
you have to remove the console first then you will see the metric bolts holding it to the floor pan.
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Question : Where can you buy a brake tools for a nissan maxima 1997 for the rear brakes ?
what auto shop would sell it besides ebay and craiglist i tried those they dont sell a nissan maxima tool
Answer:
what auto shop would sell it besides ebay and craiglist i tried those they dont sell a nissan maxima tool
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Question : What tools will I need to change the brake pads in a 1997 Sentra?
My front brake pads are worn out and I plan on changing them tomorrow and need to know what tools I will need like the size of the wrenches and such. Please Help. Also any advice on tips or tricks of getting it done will be helpful.
Answer:
1. HEX KEYS -- PREFERABLE METRIC, SET OF METRIC OPEN END AND CLOSED WRENCH KEYS2. FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS GUIDE MANUAL.IF HANDY3.SET EMERGENCY BRAKE ON , WHILE CAR IS OFF.4. USE A HYDRALIC JACK TO LIFT CAR FROM ONE SIDE AT A TIME.5. REMOVE TIRE6. LOOSEN CALIPER OFF ROTOR, BY USING PROPER HEX KEY COUNTERCLOCK WISE AND CARFULLY JIGGLE AND REMOVE, IF OLD AND STICKY USE THE TIRE IRON, FLAT SIDE AND JIGGLE AND REMOVE PADS OFF THE ROTOR AND LIFT OFF,,PAY CARFULL ATTENTION HOW IT WAS HOUSED, IT COMES WITH THE KIT, PADS AND PINS, TO PROPERLY PLACE BRAKE PADS, SQUEEZE THE CALIPER INWARD INTO ITS HOUSING, PLACE BRAKE PADS AND REINSERT. DO THE SAME TO THE OTHER SIDE,AND MAKE SURE TO EXPELL SOME OF THE BRAKE FLUID FROM THE CLAIPER CYLINDER BY LOSSENING THE FLUID RELEASE NUT AND THEN TIGHTEN IT, THIS JUST TO LET ANY TRAPPED AIR OR LIQUID. PUMP BRAKE UNIT UNTIL IT IS HARD, CHECK BRAKE FLUID, LOC ATED UNDER HOOD, BE CAREFULL, GOOD LUCK..IF THE LIGHT ON THE CONSOLE TURNS ON THEN REPEAT LAST STEP. NOTICE TAKE A GOOD LOOK: AT YOUR ROTORS THEY MAY ALSO NEED SHAVING.
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Question : 02 Lincoln LS brake change tools?
What sort of tools do I need to change the brakes on my 2002 Lincoln LS?
Answer:
the front brakes are just like anything else out there. For the rear brakes you have to have a tool that actually spins the piston back into the caliber to compress it you can get the tool at pep boys or any other store like that
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Question : How do you adjust the parking brake on an 2003 chevy silverado and what tools are needed?
How do you adjust the parking brake on an 2003 chevy silverado and what tools are needed?
Answer:
All parking brakes work by a cable, look under truck and you can see cable usualy on left side. You will see the adjuster in the cable just turn it one way or the other and watch to see if you are going the right way. One way will make it tighter and the other way looser. If this does not work then you probably need to replace rear brakes.
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